I decided to use klasse AIO, Sealant Glaze, P21S,
Acrilic spritz for my car care product. Here are my
questions:

I know how to apply them innitialy, Clay - Klasse AIO - SG (few layer) - P21S

Should i only apply AIO once every 6 months?
What should i put on my car in between ? Should i apply
the sealant glaze ? or just the p21s? Do i need to
strip the coat of the p21s wax before i apply the SG?
If yes, with what?

Does claying remove the sealant and the wax?

Thank you in advance.

 

I am a new Klasse user myself and very amazed with the results.

First of all, if your paint have swirls and some imperfections try to clay and polish your car first. I would highly recommend Menzera Final Polish II with a polishing pad and Menz. Intensive polish with a cutting pad would be the step up (Porter Cable Dual Action). You only need ONE coat of All in One (AIO) and one coat of Sealant Glaze (SG) immediately after. I would recommend 3 coats of SG for great shine and protection. Allow at least 12 hrs between coats of SG. Lastly, allow SG to cure 12hrs then apply P21S as many coats as you wish, but this is for depth only. I spray both AIO and SG with a small spray bottle can be bought at Walmart (Hair care section 50 cents/each) because you want it to be thin as possible. I apply on the SG with a Meguiar microfiber pad and wipe off with a microfiber cloth immediately (same for AIO). AIO will remove any polish, sealant, and wax that you have on your car. This process will last you at least six months, but for great shine I highly recommend every 4 months or so with Quick detailing after washes. I hope your Klasse experience was awesome as mine. GL

P.S this seems a lot of work but the product was very easy on and off. Would say 1 AIO and 1 SG would take 1-1.5 hrs. I believe AIO is misleading because it doesn't protect, just a cleaner. If you want protection SG is the way to go.

 

As far as i know, carnouba wax last no longer than 2 months. Should i apply just the P21S every two months then? or should i apply the SG as well?

Thanks euroazn for the answer.

 

After you apply P21S, there is no more SG because it will not bond to the surface. If you want to apply SG, you have have to use AIO and repeat the whole process

 

A nice little article...
http://www.eshine.ca/klasse_article.htm

"after a carnauba is applied you CAN NOT apply Klasse Sealant Glaze again until the carnauba is removed. An application of All-in-One will remove the Carnauba."

 

Are you saying that after applying P21S, the SG won't layer on top of it (which I think is correct), or that the P21S actually removes the SG (which I don't think is correct, but correct me if I'm wrong!).

 

I'm speaking from Zaino experience, but they are both polymer sealants...

The P21s will not remove the sealant that is already on the car but will prevent future layers from bonding unless it is completely removed. Those of us with Zaino between the ears just do a wash with an alkaline detergent (Dawn dishwashing liquid) to completely strip away the carnuba (P21s) and then add more layers of sealant.

 

I was told by Terry from Properautocare.com not to apply P21S wax over sealant glaze because it will cause streaks and hazy patches.

Some websites such as the www.eshine.com claiming that many show car enthusiast do layer carnouba wax on to of the Sealant Glaze.

I'm not sure which way to go, so does anyone here have ever done it, layering the SG with carnouba wax?

 

I haven't noticed any problems, but perhaps with a pure silver MINI I don't see any minor hazing/streaks, etc.

This is Klasse AIO, then SG, followed by P21S...

 

I tried S100, no hazing so far (Oxford green). The car is black five feet away

 

Also see autopia.org. Many, many articles of layering carnuaba over synthetics. Zaino is rarely mentioned.

Try Klasse AIO first, then multiple layers of carnuaba. You want to do one coat a day to allow each layer to cure.

 

You can successfully top the AIO/SG combo with any number of carnaubas including P21S. I have done so in the past with great results. (Although I am now primarily a Zaino user.

However "layering" carnaubas is generally a more psychological endeavor than practical. Two coats will ensure that you have good coverage. More than that and you are just letting the solvent content (high in all carnaubas) remove some of the previous application. And remember, carnaubas "start" to dissipate in a matter of weeks anyway.

 

I dont know if it s psychological but there is diminishing returns. For normal people two layers is plenty but in the detailing forums they are talking many more layers. Then again, they have different reasons

 

I agree with BradB on layering of waxes. One continuous coat is good. A second coat will help you make sure that you didn't miss a spot. Any further applications are just dissolving and redistributing the previous coat of wax... not really adding depth.

There might be some benefit to multiple applications of a cleaner wax because the solvents and polishes in the wax will refine the base surface of the paintwork and give you a fresh coat of wax. If you clay and polish the surface first (as any show-quaility, nut-job detailer would do anyway ) this is a moot point.

 

How do you reconcile that with comments made here http://autopia.org/forum/showthread....arnuaba+layers

I constantly read that multiple coats (up to diminishing returns) works wonders. The issue might be pure carnuaba vice one with a cleaner in it.

I put two layers over Klasse and could visually see the difference. Three layers would be fanatical!

 

I don't have any hard evidence about non-layering carnubas... just what I know from too many years of organic chemistry, biochemistry and molecular biology in grad school and college.

Carnuba is a mix of waxes and organic solvents (so it isn't hard as a brick). As you apply the wax, the solvents from the fresh material must dissolve and displace some of the previous wax coating. As the applied wax dries (to a haze) the solvents are evaporating, leaving a harder and harder coat of wax on the car. The buffing removes the excess wax, leaving only that bit that is adhered to the surface. I guess that it is possible that a second or third layer could bond to this fairly tightly, but I still think that any application force would simply disolve the first layer and mix that dried wax coat with the 'wet' (solvent-containing) newly applied coat.

Several posters on the thread above mention that they can see benefits up to the third layer of carnuba (soverign, P21s and S100 mentioned by name).... Maybe... I don't get it, but I haven't done it to tell you. I agree more with this post