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Any tips for the first wax?

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Any tips for the first wax?

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  #1  
Old 09-08-2018, 01:26 PM
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Any tips for the first wax?

I picked up my new JCW in late July, have washed it a couple of times, but yet to wax it. I believe that MINI is using a water-based paint on new cars, which left me wondering 1) can I use my same old waxes and 2) should I use anything special for the first wax job?

I used Meguiar's cleaner wax, #9 swirl remover, and #26 yellow wax on my R53. Are these OK to use on the new car, or should I look for something different?

I've considered ceramic coating but I think old school paint protection will suffice.

Thanks for any advice!
 
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Old 09-08-2018, 01:42 PM
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I’m sue that you’ve heard of a Clay bar. You may want to ad that step before the waxing. Trust me, you can literally hear the particles being picked up even when you think the paint is absolutely clean. Look on the detailing forum for more details. Also look into sealants versus waxes. You don’t need to go to ceramic...many sealers are outstanding. Look at KLASSE.
 
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Old 09-08-2018, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by fridayxiii View Post
I picked up my new JCW in late July, have washed it a couple of times, but yet to wax it. I believe that MINI is using a water-based paint on new cars, which left me wondering 1) can I use my same old waxes and 2) should I use anything special for the first wax job?

I used Meguiar's cleaner wax, #9 swirl remover, and #26 yellow wax on my R53. Are these OK to use on the new car, or should I look for something different?

I've considered ceramic coating but I think old school paint protection will suffice.

Thanks for any advice!
Hey Sid,

You will be 100% ok with 9 and 26. I would also recommend claying the car after a good wash. Just remember after you clay the car wash it one more time before you start with 9.

The reason I wash before claying is to remove the heavy crud so you don’t push it around with clay and trash the clay bar. The reason I wash after is to remove clay lube, dirt and leave everything perfectly clean before polishing. I use Sonex Perfect Finish on a Yellow Rupes pad on my Rupes DA or in your case 9.

This is the process I follow for all the cars I professionally detail for clients before I ceramic coat a car with Gyeon products.
If you have any question Sid just shoot me a PM and we can have a call.
https://www.esotericcarcare.com/sonax-perfect-finish/


 
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Old 09-09-2018, 07:16 AM
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FridayXiii, Dave.O’s work is stunning. A little bit of guidance goes a long way. It’s great to be able to start off on the right foot. Good luck.
 
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Old 09-09-2018, 10:38 AM
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My 19 is in production now. How soon after build date can these procedures be done?
 
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Old 09-09-2018, 12:23 PM
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First Wax...

First of all, you'll get as many different suggestions for waxing as there are responding posters!

IMHO - With a new car, I, personally, am not sure claying or using an aggressive swirl remover is that necessary. I've only done the clay thing once - It was a hell of a lot work and I wasn't sure it made that much of an improvement in the paint finish. I've never used anything abrasive on a new car.

Here's my regimen with any new car.

1. WASH: Of course, I use any product designed for autos.
2. CLEAN/STRIP: Since the dealer probably waxed the car on the lot with who knows what cheap bulk jug liquid wax, you'll need to strip that. I've used two products in the past, either P21S non-abrasive paint cleanser or Klasse All-In-One cleaner/sealer.
2. SEALER: The Klasse All-In-One does put a sealant on the finish but I always follow up with Klasse's better High Gloss Sealant Glaze product.
3. WAX: Some people stop with a sealant but I always layer on wax, sometimes more than one coat. I have used better yellow carnauba waxes - My favorite example is P21S which also contains bee's wax. The water beading is fantastic and it lasts for a very long time! I've used some very expensive cult white carnauba waxes over the years but, quite frankly, I cannot discern any difference in the finish or longevity.
4. WINTER: In mid-fall, I have sometimes added a layer of very tough wax like Collinite #845 Insulator Wax. Finish still beads up in March!
 
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Old 09-10-2018, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by pjsjr13 View Post
My 19 is in production now. How soon after build date can these procedures be done?
The paint process on a new car is not usually the same as what is done at a body shop. A new car has the benefit of being baked, as it can be painted without any internals in place, then baked to cure the paint right away. Not to mention is sits in shipping for a while. Only at the Vehicle Distribution Center would they potentially re-spray some damaged bumpers or add in parts installed at the port.

At a body-shop, they'll paint but it cures over the next few weeks afterwards, so it that's the case where you really need to wait to wax.

Long way of saying that you should be able to wax right away. Depending where you are in the country, the car may be on rails heading to your dealer at some point, you'd be surprised how much stuff gets into the paint by the time it hits the dealership. I would definitely clay it and then seal and/or wax afterwards.
 
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Old 09-10-2018, 09:56 AM
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All new cars need to be clayed and polished period. The cars are not as clean and defect free as people think they are. Even brand new Ferraris need claying and polishing. The factory just builds the car it is mass painted as it goes through the process. Does it look good? Some say yes some say no and it all depends on your eyes and your level of perfection.

I have worked for dealerships in the past and the cars do not look showroom / car show clean off the truck I can assure you of that. Most need to be stripped of plastic covering, rail dust, shipping fall out among many other things that they get coverd with. We would strip them with spray on solvent and wash them and then complete the polishing and waxing / sealing steps before any of them when on the lot or in the show room.



 

Last edited by Dave.O; 09-10-2018 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 09-10-2018, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave.O View Post
All new cars need to be clayed and polished period. The cars are not as clean and defect free as people think they are. Even brand new Ferraris need claying and polishing. The factory just builds the car it is mass painted as it goes through the process. Does it look good? Some say yes some say no and it all depends on your eyes and your level of perfection.

I have worked for dealerships in the past and the cars do not look showroom / car show clean off the truck I can assure you of that. Most need to be stripped of plastic covering, rail dust, shipping fall out among many other things that they get coverd with. We would strip them with spray on solvent and wash them and then complete the polishing and waxing / sealing steps before any of them when on the lot or in the show room.


Did your dealership apply sealants like Cilajet or Quantum without customer request and then tack on a $1500 second sticker charge to the new car? I had a dealer try that on me and I walked!
 
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Old 09-11-2018, 06:25 AM
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Thanks to all for the replies; there's some really good info here, and I've learned a lot. I'm waiting for some sealant to arrive, so this weekend I'll wash & clay the car, then apply the sealant and a couple of coats of wax.
 
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Old 09-11-2018, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Squirrelly View Post
Did your dealership apply sealants like Cilajet or Quantum without customer request and then tack on a $1500 second sticker charge to the new car? I had a dealer try that on me and I walked!

No, they came from Toyota, Acura, Honda, Porsche that way. They did not upcharge as they made enough on the sale of the car.
 
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Old 09-12-2018, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Squirrelly View Post
First of all, you'll get as many different suggestions for waxing as there are responding posters!

IMHO - With a new car, I, personally, am not sure claying or using an aggressive swirl remover is that necessary. I've only done the clay thing once - It was a hell of a lot work and I wasn't sure it made that much of an improvement in the paint finish. I've never used anything abrasive on a new car.

Here's my regimen with any new car.

1. WASH: Of course, I use any product designed for autos.
2. CLEAN/STRIP: Since the dealer probably waxed the car on the lot with who knows what cheap bulk jug liquid wax, you'll need to strip that. I've used two products in the past, either P21S non-abrasive paint cleanser or Klasse All-In-One cleaner/sealer.
2. SEALER: The Klasse All-In-One does put a sealant on the finish but I always follow up with Klasse's better High Gloss Sealant Glaze product.
3. WAX: Some people stop with a sealant but I always layer on wax, sometimes more than one coat. I have used better yellow carnauba waxes - My favorite example is P21S which also contains bee's wax. The water beading is fantastic and it lasts for a very long time! I've used some very expensive cult white carnauba waxes over the years but, quite frankly, I cannot discern any difference in the finish or longevity.
4. WINTER: In mid-fall, I have sometimes added a layer of very tough wax like Collinite #845 Insulator Wax. Finish still beads up in March!
If claying a car seemed like a lot of work then you were doing it wrong. If done correctly, the claying process is quick and easy, and definitely improves the finished product.
 
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