Well, today I went out to AutoZone and bought Scratch-X, and Megueir's fine polish, along with some Mist and Wipe, plus a pure foam applicator.
I got home and washed the bonnet area thoroughly where the scratches are, using DAWN to strip off the wax. I taped off the bonnet stripes to protect them.
Carefully I applied the Scratch-X and began to buff, and buff, and buff, several times, using a randomizing orbital waxer.
I wiped off all the excess, and applied the fine polish, and buffed, and buffed, and buffed...
I re-waxed the car, and buffed, and buffed, and buffed...
I used the Mist and Wipe, and buffed some more.
Getting the picture? I polished the area silly... it's nice and shiney!

But, THE BLOODY SCRATCHES ARE STILL THERE!!!!

Well, some of the lighter ones are less noticeable, but the scratches are still obvious in the right (or wrong) light.
Where did I go wrong? Did I not buff long enough?
Do I need to take Union Jack to a professional detailer and have them get rid of the scratches on him? Are they maybe too deep for a Scratch-X job? I can't lift them with my fingernail, and can't feel them at all, I just see them.
I'm very frustrated! I'm considering having someone key the bonnet so I can make a claim on my insurance and get it re-painted by a good body shop. I only have a $100 deductable on my comprehensive, and it would be worth $100 to get the scratches out. I hope my insurance adjuster doesn't read this board! :smile: Just joking! I'm too honest for that!
But, any feedback would be appreciated!

 

First of all, Scratch X is not supposed to be applied by polisher. It's designed to use by hand.
Check this link, there is a detail how-to for Scratch X.
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...&threadid=1516

You can get loads of info. on detailing from www.meguiarsonline.com as well.

Cheers

 

My scratch repair kit includes several Meguiars products aswell as Langka goodies to help finish scratch repairs. It works very well if you follow the directions.
http://www.langka.com/newsite/index2.html

 

Oh, I did it by hand as well, using the pure foam applicator. Thanks for the links, I'll have a look...

 

I've also had mixed results with ScatchX. I think, to some extent, the darker your paint is, the harder it is to hide any flaw.

I've been considering buying some Langka. Do you think that its safe? The concept seems great; but it sure seems like it could eat through the rest of your paint as easily as it eats through the "blob".

 

Where to start???

First, what kind of buffer do you have?
What speed was it on?
What buffing pad were you using?
Sorry, but ScratchX is REALLY horrible stuff.
Meguiars fine polish won't do a thing.

Buffing technique is very important. Most people work the buffer WAY too fast. You need to work a very small area, perhaps 12" square, for each application of product on the pad. Apply an "X" of compound on the pad from edge to edge. This area should take as long as 3-4 minutes to buff. You work very slowly. Work the compound until it breaks down. You will notice it start to get more "liquid". It will almost get watery, just before it starts to dry. Right then is when you want tom stop. Never buff dry.

You want to use a foam cutting pad to start with. And I would recommend 3M Finesse It II compound. You should finish up with a softer finishing pad and 3M Swirl Mark Remover. These two products will solve 90% of paint defects you will ever run into.

3M products are by FAR the highest quality compounds you can buy. Malco is a close second. They are far more consistant than anything else. This is so important when you are polishing and trying to get results you can see against dark colors.

Let me know where I can help you out. Answer some of the questions for me. We need to get rid of your swirls!

Check out this short article, too. It shows the basics of how to use a buffer. Good stuff!

 

Hmmmmm, thanks for the new insight... I have a fairly decent buffer, it's great for waxing. It only has one speed, and it's pretty fast. I used one of the "wax applicator" pads that came with it. Perhaps this is my problem, I'm going too fast at it. I'm going to Tognotti's soon, and I'll look for those 3M products and try appying by hand with the foam applicator, and go slow. I'll report back what happens.

 

Pads can make ALL the difference. Wax application pads are very soft. Cutting pads are much stiffer. Thats probably the difference. You could work at it all day and not get much cutting action.

Good luck.

 

OK, today I went back at it, with new knowledge in hand (thanks to all of you kind folks!). I did things differently, using the Scratch-X by hand with a pretty stiff foam applicator. Working in small areas at a time. I must say that much of the scratch damage is now gone, and the final polishing and waxing and buffing improved it even more. There are still visible "scars" from some of the original scratches visible under certain lighting conditions (garage flourescent lights) at a certain angle (but, you have to go down really low). So, unless a 4 year old is looking at UJ, the scratches are, for all intents and purposes, taken care of.
One day, I'll take him over to a good body shop/detailer and I'm sure that they will be able to do an even better job. But, I am pretty happy with the results.
Thanks for all the great advise! You guys are super!