Several questions about polishing and Waxing
#1
Several questions about polishing and Waxing
Hi everyone
i just finished waxing my mini... but i felt that i didn't lay down a coat of anything.. i used maguires (sp?) gold class liquid wax and used a terry cloth applicator and did swarls around panel by panel.. after about a minute i wiped it off using my old cammy (i need another microfiber soon)...
i had a chance to get my car coated with top quality carbunya wax (sp?) a few months back and i felt that there's actually wax because it's mirror smooth... the coat i have now on my car felt a bit... rough (not ultra rough, but not as smooth)
so my main question is that how can i tell when to stop waxing etc... should i lay down ALOT of liquid wax on the applicator so i make sure it gets onto the paint?
my second question reguards to polish.. what is this process.. do i do it after every wash or like waxing do it every few times (for me i wax once a month).. i looked up some zaino polish stuff but i got no idea what it does..
any feedback is much appreciated
-kyriian
i just finished waxing my mini... but i felt that i didn't lay down a coat of anything.. i used maguires (sp?) gold class liquid wax and used a terry cloth applicator and did swarls around panel by panel.. after about a minute i wiped it off using my old cammy (i need another microfiber soon)...
i had a chance to get my car coated with top quality carbunya wax (sp?) a few months back and i felt that there's actually wax because it's mirror smooth... the coat i have now on my car felt a bit... rough (not ultra rough, but not as smooth)
so my main question is that how can i tell when to stop waxing etc... should i lay down ALOT of liquid wax on the applicator so i make sure it gets onto the paint?
my second question reguards to polish.. what is this process.. do i do it after every wash or like waxing do it every few times (for me i wax once a month).. i looked up some zaino polish stuff but i got no idea what it does..
any feedback is much appreciated
-kyriian
Last edited by kyriian; 07-30-2004 at 10:47 AM.
#2
#3
It's hard to tell what your paint finish looks like but let me at least address the feel of it.
(First, always wash a car before waxing, claying or polishing so you are not rubbing dirt dust or contaminents into the surface.)
To maximize the results of any wax job you should clay the vehicle first to remove embedded contaminents in the paint. Claying is a very simple process that will take less than 30 minutes for a MINI and will leave the surface SOOOO ultra slick and smooth. If you wax over a dirty bumpy surface...you still have a dirty bumpy surface! Yuck. Check out the article. You don't have to do it that often but it is worth the results. Trust me. (If your paint has no swirls you can go straight to waxing)
Polishing, in the process of paint finish prep, is the next step. This is needed if you have mars or swirls in the paint that need to be removed. Technically, polish is an abrasive and/or solvent that cleans the surface of the paint/clearcoat. There are many different chemical combinations of polishes and each do their job to a different degree with a different level of effectiveness. Many cheaper "one step does it all" cleaner waxes have a high level of cleaners and abrasives in them to help remove and hide light swirls while you wax. These waxes really are polishes. Often, if you ad another coat you are simple removing the previous coat, not "adding" another on top.
A true wax is just a coating and has little or no abrasives in it. There are two main types of waxes. Carnauba based which are "natural" waxes and are high solvent based waxes. These are generally easy to use, but have low durability. They will start to dissipate in a matter of weeks. The other type, sealants come in two categories, Polymer Sealants and Acrylic Sealants. Sealants are far more durable. Some brands can last many months.
Waxing is always last. If you use a polish after you put on any coating you will simply remove it.
There are lots of good articles to check out. I have only spoken in broad generalities. Look em over! Have fun. Ask questions! You'll be hooked!
Brad
(First, always wash a car before waxing, claying or polishing so you are not rubbing dirt dust or contaminents into the surface.)
To maximize the results of any wax job you should clay the vehicle first to remove embedded contaminents in the paint. Claying is a very simple process that will take less than 30 minutes for a MINI and will leave the surface SOOOO ultra slick and smooth. If you wax over a dirty bumpy surface...you still have a dirty bumpy surface! Yuck. Check out the article. You don't have to do it that often but it is worth the results. Trust me. (If your paint has no swirls you can go straight to waxing)
Polishing, in the process of paint finish prep, is the next step. This is needed if you have mars or swirls in the paint that need to be removed. Technically, polish is an abrasive and/or solvent that cleans the surface of the paint/clearcoat. There are many different chemical combinations of polishes and each do their job to a different degree with a different level of effectiveness. Many cheaper "one step does it all" cleaner waxes have a high level of cleaners and abrasives in them to help remove and hide light swirls while you wax. These waxes really are polishes. Often, if you ad another coat you are simple removing the previous coat, not "adding" another on top.
A true wax is just a coating and has little or no abrasives in it. There are two main types of waxes. Carnauba based which are "natural" waxes and are high solvent based waxes. These are generally easy to use, but have low durability. They will start to dissipate in a matter of weeks. The other type, sealants come in two categories, Polymer Sealants and Acrylic Sealants. Sealants are far more durable. Some brands can last many months.
Waxing is always last. If you use a polish after you put on any coating you will simply remove it.
There are lots of good articles to check out. I have only spoken in broad generalities. Look em over! Have fun. Ask questions! You'll be hooked!
Brad
#5
#6
The better brands are Zaino, Clay Magic, Mothers, Perfect Shine. The only one I would really tell you to stay away from is Meguiars. It is particularly soft and gooey. It leaves a residue on the surface and is a pain compared to the rest.
TIP: You can use a quick detailer as a lubricant or simply wash the car and keep dabbing on a mitt of sudsy auto shampoo to keep it lubed as you clay. Works even better and is cheaper.
Have fun.:smile:
TIP: You can use a quick detailer as a lubricant or simply wash the car and keep dabbing on a mitt of sudsy auto shampoo to keep it lubed as you clay. Works even better and is cheaper.
Have fun.:smile:
#7
I think leaving it on for a minute then wiping is too soon. You really want to leave it on for atleast 10 minutes. It needs to dry to a haze before wiping down. I use Meguiars NXT which is a polymer based protectant and it works fantastic. My car shines all the time, and you can definitely tell when it's applied.
But you don't want to mix different types of waxes. I would suggest stripping the old wax off with Dawn, then claybarring, then doing NXT.
Putting more wax on the applicator won't do anything but waste product. Use the recommended amount--for both Zaino and NXT, a little goes a long way.
Richard
But you don't want to mix different types of waxes. I would suggest stripping the old wax off with Dawn, then claybarring, then doing NXT.
Putting more wax on the applicator won't do anything but waste product. Use the recommended amount--for both Zaino and NXT, a little goes a long way.
Richard
Originally Posted by kyriian
Hi everyone
i just finished waxing my mini... but i felt that i didn't lay down a coat of anything.. i used maguires (sp?) gold class liquid wax and used a terry cloth applicator and did swarls around panel by panel.. after about a minute i wiped it off using my old cammy (i need another microfiber soon)...
i had a chance to get my car coated with top quality carbunya wax (sp?) a few months back and i felt that there's actually wax because it's mirror smooth... the coat i have now on my car felt a bit... rough (not ultra rough, but not as smooth)
so my main question is that how can i tell when to stop waxing etc... should i lay down ALOT of liquid wax on the applicator so i make sure it gets onto the paint?
my second question reguards to polish.. what is this process.. do i do it after every wash or like waxing do it every few times (for me i wax once a month).. i looked up some zaino polish stuff but i got no idea what it does..
any feedback is much appreciated
-kyriian
i just finished waxing my mini... but i felt that i didn't lay down a coat of anything.. i used maguires (sp?) gold class liquid wax and used a terry cloth applicator and did swarls around panel by panel.. after about a minute i wiped it off using my old cammy (i need another microfiber soon)...
i had a chance to get my car coated with top quality carbunya wax (sp?) a few months back and i felt that there's actually wax because it's mirror smooth... the coat i have now on my car felt a bit... rough (not ultra rough, but not as smooth)
so my main question is that how can i tell when to stop waxing etc... should i lay down ALOT of liquid wax on the applicator so i make sure it gets onto the paint?
my second question reguards to polish.. what is this process.. do i do it after every wash or like waxing do it every few times (for me i wax once a month).. i looked up some zaino polish stuff but i got no idea what it does..
any feedback is much appreciated
-kyriian
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#8
I've used Meguiars Gold Class liquid before. I was really happy with it in the following areas: great shine/depth, great smooth feeling (although I clay'd first), great water beading. However, I was not pleased with its durability. I would say it took 3-4 weeks before you couldn't tell that I had waxed.
#9
Sure, that's the deal with all carnaubas. They are very low in durability. They start dissipating immediately. I have had test waxes, even really, really, expensive ones, literally wash away!
It's fun experimating with them, though. And if you have the time to re-apply...why not.
BTW, I see you are in St. Louis. If you ever want to sample anything BEFORE shelling out cold hard cash let me know. I have hundreds and hundreds of detailing products and you are welcome to try any and all of them. Just contact me. I have people over at the "Sanctuary" all the time. The offer is good for anyone in the metro area.
It's fun experimating with them, though. And if you have the time to re-apply...why not.
BTW, I see you are in St. Louis. If you ever want to sample anything BEFORE shelling out cold hard cash let me know. I have hundreds and hundreds of detailing products and you are welcome to try any and all of them. Just contact me. I have people over at the "Sanctuary" all the time. The offer is good for anyone in the metro area.
#10
With waxes, applying a thin layer is key! Let them dry completely so that, when you buff it off with a towel, it comes off as a powder, not a liquid that you are wiping around.
On a warm summer day, a thin coat of wax will probably dry in 5-10 minutes. In cooler or more humid weather, it may take 30-60 min.
On a warm summer day, a thin coat of wax will probably dry in 5-10 minutes. In cooler or more humid weather, it may take 30-60 min.
#11
BradB et al: Thanks so much for all the great advice! It's time for me to wax Miranda again, and I think all of the very thoughtful posts have pretty much answered every question I could have come up with and then some! The car care is overdue per your posts, so I'm going to use what I have on hand for now -- McGuires Gold Class. But I'm definately going to treat Miranda to the really good stuff next time around. (Which will be very soon, given your assessment of the carnuba-based waxes!)
Thanks again for sharing your expertise with neophites like me....:smile:
Sylvia
Thanks again for sharing your expertise with neophites like me....:smile:
Sylvia
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