But can you wash pyramids with it???

 

I checked out the website. Couldn't get past the hummer

No thanks

 

I'm no expert but I would not put that stuff on my MINI. Waterless, magic in a bottle? What's wrong with using water to wash your car?

I use Zaino and I love it because it's not cheap and you can't get it at Walmart.

 

Kinda sums it up.

 

New Mini just 2 weeks old...new to forum today.
Been reading like a 'bad dog' and overwhelmed with all the choices!

Curious how many using a polisher - PC or other and how many do it all by hand?

My Mini was a demo with 1200 miles on it - Have some 'dealer installed' swirls and they also did an 8" x 2" area with I think compound (still has haze) to repair a scratch. Paint job looks good but I know I need to polish out haze and swirls. Also have a couple of little stone chips.

Any suggestions?

I LOVE working on the car so I am not afraid to try a machine if consensus makes it a 'good thing'. Just have no experience yet.

I have never used Klasse but have been reading everything on Autopia site and am curious about it and the new Menzerna FMJ paint protectant. Classic seems to love the product line but I am also aware they are one of few selling it. FMJ is listed as $40 for 16oz. BUT it is only 1 step where Klasse is 2 if use AIO and Glaze. Claims to be much longer lasting as protection and better depth and shine then Zaino, Klasse, Zymol, and Carnuabas...

Anyone tried any of the Menzerna products?

Mini is '04 Cooper - IndiBlue with White top,wheels, and side mirrors - all 3 packages - profile leather - 16" run flats and currently NXT on her just until can figure out about products...

 

I have used them. I have all the Menzerma products, Klasse, Zaino, Zymol, over 30 waxes, 15 compounds, dressings galore, egads...you don't want to know! If you are anywhere near the St. Louis area you are welcome to come by for a visit or attend one of my Detailing Tips and Tricks seminars. Just had one last week and will be doing one next week for the Porsche club. It's a chance to try hundreds of products before purchasing. (like I did ) Check my website link in my profile for some pics of past events.

Anyway, the PC (Porter Cable Random Orbital Polisher) is a wonderful tool. If you enjoy detailing, get one. It's a time saver, it will make your car look better, it's easy to use in short order and with just a little instruction (available with online articles or personal instruction.) If interested I can help you with pad selection and tool sources.

Menzerma is ok stuff but I MUCH prefer 3M compounds for swirl removal. FAR more consistant make-up and higher quality. Will not settle or degrade. The 2 most important compounds to have are 3M Finesse It II and 3M Swirl Mark Remover. With these two compounds you can solve 99.9% of all defects you are likely to encounter (or be able to tackle on your own).

For the paint protectant or sealant, it is no contest, I would take Zaino over Klasse and Klasse over Menzerma. Hands down.

I like Klasse but don't think of it as necessarily a two step. Understand that you HAVE to properly prep the surface of the paint no matter what wax/sealant you use. The theory is that AIO (which is heavy in cleaner solvents and light abrasive) will be enough to clean and flatten the surface. You "can" stop there. There is plenty of protection in AIO. Adding SG over the top just adds to the protection. You can also clean the surface with a compound and simply coat with SG and skip the AIO. Either way, you have to prep the surface somehow. Now, if you wax with NXT or Zaino or Zymol or whatever, you STILL have to prep the surface so really, ANYTHING is a two step process.

Sorry for the long explanation. I just wanted to clarify that 1. You didn't HAVE to use both Klasse twins. and 2. You have to prep for all jobs.

 

It's P-21S for me. First the paint cleanser (only necessary on the other car) and then the wax and then the wash. ZERO white stuff on my bumpers. Cleanser and wax is easy on, easy off. Good shine. Lasts.

P-21S wheel cleaner works well too, but I only have to use that on the other car because the MINI has had WHEEL WAX on the wheels from day one and they are never any problem to clean.

Stoners for the windows. Meguiars 39 & 40 for the bumpers and other trim. A little BRASSO chrome polish for the JCW exhaust tips.

 

Brads advice is great. i've used the Autopia guide for both of my cars (one old and my new mini) and i'v ehad great results.


i personally use the Klasse twins and am very happy with the protection they offer. (not as shiny as carnuaba, but i don't have to apply it once a month either)
besides that, i live on a dirt road, in Maine and a protected car is far more important here than a shiny one. i know that the Klasse makes washing the car a breeze. lots of quality meguiars suds and wash mitt and h2o, and very little elbow grease needed.
i'm trying the clay bar next time i wax, this fall.

 

I've only used the Klasse AIO and have been very pleased. I'm too lazy for the SG. P21S is very easy to use, so it's a nice topper if you want a little extra.

 

Great combo! I love AIO (SG) as a base and playing with different carnauba toppers to see what I like best and how different they are. Experimenting, for a car detailing fanatic like me, is half the fun!

 

A couple of posts mention using Dawn to strip old wax. This makes me nervous..I think because once a car paint guy told me to use Dawn to wash with and I tried it and did not get good results. (it was an old car, a spitfire without clear coat, so while it had a new paint job, it was not a factory or even good paint job..) However, I want to keep mingo looking as perfect later as he does now. The car was built in May and I have waxed him once but before I wax him again, SHOULD I use the Dawn? At what point, or how, do you know it's time to remove buildup? I am also figuring that you are suggesting the Dawn when you are applying a new wax job...but will it affect the clear coat and factory seal??

Someone else mentioned using the clay bar BEFORE drying the car after washing. Hmmm. I have always dried the car first and just used the clay lube as a lubricant, but I like the idea of doing it before drying...

Last but not least, I think I see my first scratch, it doesn't break the paint (in truth I have some hair line scratches from my dog that are deeper) that I believe I can buff out, it is more like a mar than a scratch,but I don't feel a raised area so I don't know if the clay bar will get it out...I was using a chamois, now detailing cloths, jjust for drying because I've never had to actually buff things out, what do you suggest for buffing??

Sorry for the long post. I just want to keep Mingo gorgeous!!

 

Brad,

Finally got around to putting your suggestions to work. Gave her a good wash with Dawn, then used the Mothers clay with the Mothers detailer. Then Zaino Z2 with the ZFX. Put on 4 coats. I am blown away with the results. The clay made a huge difference like you said. The hardest part about the whole project was waiting the half hour for the Z2 to dry. I do not agree with the comparisons that the car will feel like glass when finished. Glass feels rough now. Silk is more like it. The only problem is it feels so good I can't stop touching the finish. Thanks again!

 

Woohoo! I am stoked to hear you had great results!

Hopefully you got Z6 quick detailer. It's a great way to keep the slick factor up between washes and is a great boost after a wash. I even use Z7 Zaino shampoo. Wonderful stuff.

Have fun!

 

Brad and all,
Really glad I read all these postings, but now I am really worried. I got my mini in April and followed the dealers instructions which were to wash with shampoo, wax with Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection, rinse when dirty and dry with a chamois. I have a feeling all this is not the best for really preserving the finish, since no one even mentioned Autoglym and am wondering how much damage I have done. Especially since I thought a chamois was the thing to use. I know nothing...have never been "bonkers" about a car and wanted to take the extra effort, so this is all new to me. I do know that I want to keep my mini for a number of years and I want it to look great. So if I get all these "proper tools" that have been mentioned in the posts and start from here it's not too late is it? Also read on another posting about taking care of the wheels and brake dust, which was eye opening...did not know that. My biggest question is about the black mini skirting. Are you saying the products can be used on that part of the car, too? And what about the rubber seals around doors and windows? Also would like to hear some suggestions about care of the chrome parts of the car, too. I got an Autoglym chrome polish, but have not used it yet.
Thanks for the info.

 

I wouldn't worry about the autoglym. I have heard good things about it, but have never used it myself. Trade the chamois for microfiber drying towels.

 

Zymol wax is the best!


or...... Malm's.......... get the most % of real carnuba in the product........

 

I have a question...

Say I want to make a change in the products I'm using. Right now, for example I use the Klasse twins....but how do I strip it and start over. If a Dawn wash works on wax...does it work on other products as well??? Thanks.

 

That's a good question. Klasse is so durable I don't know how effective Dawn would be. It certainly wouldn't hurt to Dawn and clay. But there probably is a stronger polish or compound that would remove the Klasse if that is your goal.

 

I was curious so I did a search on the autopia site and found out that a few people recommended rubbing alcohol to get the Klasse off. They said it was safe. Someone also mentioned denatured alcohol, but that stuff is nasty and I'd be afraid to use it.

 

Kirk

I recommed the Zaino kit because it will give you just about everything you need to keep your MINI looking great. It is also less confusing than trying to mix and match products when you are unsure of how they will work together. I also knew nothing about proper wash/detail techniques before I got my MINI. However after many washes and waxing with Zaino and using the clay bar my MINI looks great.

Check it out at www.zainobros.com

The kit will come with detailed instructions that take you step be step through the entire process. I admit it is a little confusing at first but well worth the extra effort.

 

Kirk, You certainly haven't "hurt" anything with the Autoglym. It isn't the highest independently rated wax, nor my favorite, but not bad. It's just not the most durable and doesn't offer the best shine. But the shine part is quite subjective. Personally, I use Zaino, a polymer sealant, which had a hard finish, and offers one of the slickest and glossiest finishes on the market. It rated #1 in the independant GuruReports Wax Test.

You do want to drop the chamois and get microfiber waffleweaves for drying and microfiber towels for polishing off the wax. Also be sure to use proper mitts for washing. 100% cotton chenille.

The plastic trim on the MINI should be treated with a dressing after you wash the car. Many good products are available. Aerospace 303 and 1Z are a couple of my favorites. Just avoid products that have a HIGH shine or advertise cleaners in them. (unless they are water based) These products with a high shine have are often overloaded with oils and silicones which will just attract dirt. And the cleaners are petroleum based solvents which will leech into the plastic and eventually dry it out and cause it to fade and crack. The old classic Armour All is an example of this type of product.

For Door seals, the absolute best product is Gummi Pflege (means rubber care in German). It's produced by BMW and retagged by 1Z here. It comes in a applicator. Incredible stuff. I have used it for years. Get this!

Greg67, to be sure you get all of Klasse off wipe down the car with a MF cloth damped down with isopropol alcohol. (rubbing alcohol). DO NOT use denatured alcohol. Then wash with Dawn to steralize the base.

jds, This works for Zaino and all other polymers for removal as well.

sbgobig, I agree!

 

I have been out looking for the proper supplies and have run into some more questions. When I find chenille mitts they don't say 100% cotton chenille and I can't seem to find the little tag with the content breakdown, plus they are cheaper than was quoted (about $3.50 not $6.00). I have been to two auto stores, plus Wal Mart and Target. Am I being silly about this, are all chenille mitts created equally? I also can't find the microfiber waffle weave towels and am thinking I may just order the whole "shebang" online. I did find the microfiber towels in the auto stores. By the way, maybe it's been mentioned, but what is the best to apply the polish with and the Z7 (? Z6?) for touchups. I'm going to order a Zaino kit today and plan to spend Labor Day (appropriate, right ) on my mini.

Thanks for all the great info.
Kirk

 

Brad,

The PC is luring me. I have had a great time the past year trying out all kinds of stuff. Zymol, NXT, Klasse, etc. etc. Zaino comes out on top for me. Now it's time to get some cool tools

What do I need to get started with the PC?

Thanks,

Andy

 

Kirk, You really just can't get "good" microfibers at the local stores. The WalMart variety are ok for door jams and the like but not the paint. And a way to test to see if fibers in mitts are cotton or polyester is to take a match, light it, blow it out and when still red hot touch the head to the fibers. If the fibers curl and melt they are synthetic. If they turn black and chalk up they are cotton. (I wouldn't advise doing this in the aisle at WalMart, however! ) Viking brand mitts, although very inexpensive, are cotton. They may not be the plushest, (hence the low price-point) but they are safe to use. Get these at WalMart, AutoZone, K-Mart. Mitts available online will be advertised as cotton.

You'll have to go online to get quality MF Waffleweaves for drying as well.

Apply Z6 quick detailer with a quality MF towel.

asodestrom, the basics include at least a 6" velcro backing pad, a white polishing pad and a yellow cutting pad. If you intend to apply wax with the PC then also get a soft pad as well. You can do 99% of anything with these three pads. For specialty work I LOVE my 4" pads. They are great for little areas and touch up work. I use them a lot. Check out classic motoring accessories and look in the PC section. There is a lot of good reading.

The two best compounds you should have are 3M Finesse It and 3M Swirl Mark Remover (light or dark, you choose). There are many abrasives to choose from but these are the best made and the most versatile.

 

Sheepskin mitts are nice for washing too. They are readily available.

For drying, I love my Little Blue Drying Towel (is that the waffle weave you're talking about?). I got it from CMA (www.properautocare.com), which is local for me.