What is the best light to see what your doing?
What is the best light to see what your doing?
I'm trying to detail the Mini to next level, meaning trying to reach a level I've not been to. What is the best light to see the finish's defects ?
Check this out.
http://www.detailersdomain.com/Lighting_c_127.html
Phil is a vendor here on NAM too. He has detailed my MINI 3 or 4 times and has done a few other cars for me.
Also check out his detail write ups. Lots of pics and in many he shows what lighting he uses to show the paint/surface defects. Check look for his posts in the 101 section.
http://www.detailersdomain.com/Lighting_c_127.html
Phil is a vendor here on NAM too. He has detailed my MINI 3 or 4 times and has done a few other cars for me.
Also check out his detail write ups. Lots of pics and in many he shows what lighting he uses to show the paint/surface defects. Check look for his posts in the 101 section.
Vendor & Moderator :: MINI Camera and Video & c3 club forum
iTrader: (6)
The best light is the one that shows the defects the most. The answer to this question lies in part with how well your eyes are trained. If you want the absolutely best light that shows the most defects, use an LED light source. CREE LEDs are the brightest. However if you work primarily outdoors, the sun or a Xenon flashlight is popular.
An example of swirls lit up by the sun

Here is my custom LED lighting rig that I use in my shop

This is my indoor "sun"---1000 Watt Arri Fresnel

50/50 polishing test using Prima products lit with the 1000 watt lamp

Proper lighting lets you put the light where you want it and correct the paint at the same time. The light you reference is too bulky and cumbersome for quality finishing work.

Richard
An example of swirls lit up by the sun

Here is my custom LED lighting rig that I use in my shop

This is my indoor "sun"---1000 Watt Arri Fresnel

50/50 polishing test using Prima products lit with the 1000 watt lamp

Proper lighting lets you put the light where you want it and correct the paint at the same time. The light you reference is too bulky and cumbersome for quality finishing work.

Richard
First find a really big thermonuclear fusion reactor and station it about 93 million miles away.
Not too much closer nor further or you'll run into problems.
Next make some water vapour aggregations several thousand feet above you to
diffuse the light from the reactor. Not essential but it helps.
Works for me and about 7 billion others - so far.
Not too much closer nor further or you'll run into problems.
Next make some water vapour aggregations several thousand feet above you to
diffuse the light from the reactor. Not essential but it helps.
Works for me and about 7 billion others - so far.
Vendor & Moderator :: MINI Camera and Video & c3 club forum
iTrader: (6)
Haha that would be funny...I used to wear a headmounted light years ago and that works too but not as flexible. Look at the pic above, you can just make out the light extending to the right top corner...it's on a tripod stand.


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Vendor & Moderator :: MINI Camera and Video & c3 club forum
iTrader: (6)
To the OP, you need to know that any light can make a HUGE difference from what you are doing now when used properly. You don't need super bright, hot halogen work lamps. With hot lights, you have to place them further away. With brighter, colder LED lights you can put them right in front of you without affecting the paint. Hot lights are dangerous, and burn risks. Put even an LED flashlight over your work, find a way to mount it on a stand. Just get it over your work area and learn to "see" paint. I'm using a modified Home Depot LED consumer bulb for a lot of my work these days...easily available, and fits in any standard light bulb socket.
very clever, Sunny
7 billion people are polishing cars, wooh
I would like to work indoors, though
Some kind of LEDS then?
7 billion people are polishing cars, wooh

I would like to work indoors, though

Some kind of LEDS then?
First find a really big thermonuclear fusion reactor and station it about 93 million miles away.
Not too much closer nor further or you'll run into problems.
Next make some water vapour aggregations several thousand feet above you to
diffuse the light from the reactor. Not essential but it helps.
Works for me and about 7 billion others - so far.
Not too much closer nor further or you'll run into problems.
Next make some water vapour aggregations several thousand feet above you to
diffuse the light from the reactor. Not essential but it helps.
Works for me and about 7 billion others - so far.
Octane Guy, Love the form with the cord over the back!
I see so many advanced detailers make the mistake and marr the paint with the cord.
Also I have a very similar LED rig in my shop that I can get real close to the paint and it is easlily adjustible. I feel its the best.
As for JPMM, Really any light helps as Octane Guy said. I have a gazzillion florecents on my ceilling and walls of my shop and they help some but not enough for the AOCD extremests. I think its really about the angle of your light and your eyes. And dont forget, the sun never lies!
I see so many advanced detailers make the mistake and marr the paint with the cord.Also I have a very similar LED rig in my shop that I can get real close to the paint and it is easlily adjustible. I feel its the best.
As for JPMM, Really any light helps as Octane Guy said. I have a gazzillion florecents on my ceilling and walls of my shop and they help some but not enough for the AOCD extremests. I think its really about the angle of your light and your eyes. And dont forget, the sun never lies!
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