I have an Eclipse Grey/Black R56 (new color to Dark Silver, introduced in 2011 MY) and I am having an issue figuring out what product to pad system to use with my Porter Cable. I have both Adams and Prima products and am just trying to figure out what others have had success with on this color range on MINI paint.

Paint is in pretty good shape still s it is a newer MINI still. For comparison, I will say that my paint is in a little better shape than the Mustang done by Phil@detailerdomain, some shots from his write up are below.





In the write up for the Mustang it seems like Meguiar's DA D300 was used with some Uber pads and the results came out really well IMO.

Question is, on a darker color and on paint in a little better condition is it safe to go as extreme (what it seems like) as Prima Cut or Adams Severe Swirl since those are in the same category as D300? If so, should I go with a hard pad like Adams Green Pad or the Uber Yellow pad or something softer since the compound is so agressive?

Product combinations I have tried to get the swirls out:
- Prima Swirl/Uber Green pad
- Prima Swirl/Uber Orange pad
- Adams Haze and Swirl remover/Green pad

I know that this is somewhat trial and error and takes some time depending on the severity of the swirls as well as technique. Unfortunately, I do not have a ton of time usually to try a bunch of different combinations before going over the entire car and this coming spring will hopefully have a few ideas on combinations to try instead of going into it blindly and guesstimating entirely.

If Phil from DD can chime in since I am referring to a similar process he has done that would be excellent but any suggestions from anyone :cough: Octaneguy :cough: that has worked with this color paint or close to on their MINI would be greatly appreciated of course. Feel free to recommend changing product lines and giving reasons as to why if need be.

Trying to get the rest of what I need for the coming spring to curb my OCD car washing.

Side note: thinking of setting up a polishing database or sorts with pictures of paint condition and the products used to correct it based on actual experiences. Most of what I have been finding online has been assumptions mostly based off other cars so I think having a MINI specific would be a big help to everyone here.

 

First thing you want to do is start with the LEAST aggressive pad/product combo. Just test it on a small area and see your results. If there are still swirls, move on to something more aggressive.

Swirl with an LC orange or white pad almost always does the trick for me though. I just start with a small area and go through all my steps on that area, Swirl with a white pad, Amigo, Epic, Banana Gloss, Hydro, Collapse from exhaustion. Once I get my process down for that detail, I then do the whole car.

But I don't think anyone can really answer your question , because all paint is different, even on MINI's.

I am curious as to your thoughts on Adam's Polishes. I hear lots of good things about them and was thinking about trying out a bottle of their swirl remover when I do my spring detail.

 

I have a DS Mini. I use Prima Products and am fortunate to have Richard (OctaneGuy) close by for training and guidance.

First, access and be realistic about what level of paint correction you'll be happy with, knowing that perfection with the tools you (and I have) make that difficult to achieve. Once you've adjusted your expectations, I would suggest using Swirl with a white pad and see if that works on a small 2'x2' area. If more correction is needed, switch to an orange pad. I use LC pads from Showcardetailing.com Your pads may be different.

After getting the correction with Swirl, I go back with Amigo and a white pad. IMO, Amigo does a great job with the DS paint. I finish off with Epic and later a topcoat of Banana Gloss. I upkeep it with Mystique wash and Hydro.

If you start with Cut, you'll end up having to go through the steps above to get to the final shine.

I'm pretty **** about the paint condition of my MINI. I'm satisfied with the results I get from those steps I've shared with you.

Good Luck!!

Jeff

 

Thanks, this is mostly what I am already understanding about correction already that all paint is different in some way. Guess I am mainly just looking for suggestions to try and avoid a bunch of different combinations at first.

So far I think that adams and prima are pretty much at the same level so far in my experience. I will say that I have used Prima a bit more and the final steps seem to slightly have a better result than the equivalent adams products. But, I have yet to get the results I am looking for so that all could change once I get everything down.

Lucky dog being so close to such a well known and qualified detailer. My expectations are pretty high I will admit but feel as though, with practice, that results close to that of Phil from DD had on the Mustang write up should be where I get to. Saying this mainly because I am using the same or similar tools and hopefully will improve my technique over time.



Thanks for the input from both of you though, still learning so just trying to narrow down my technique to a few to start with before trying more agressive techniques.

 

Tape off a 12" x 12" Section, then do the steps above don't start on the rest of your MINI until you are happy with your "Test Spot"!!

 

A polishing database is pretty pointless as I've found that I can prescribe a set of pads, chemicals, and tools to one person, and he won't achieve the same results I can with the exact same combination. Meaning, technique and experience is everything.

When polishing paint, as JeffreyC pointed out, it's imperative to assess the condition of the paint and choose the right combination of products to get the job done right. For MINI's, either the Lake Country or Buff & Shine Orange or White pads with Prima Swirl will get the job done right. Forget the green pads. Master Prima Swirl with the orange and white pads and you'll be able to polish out pretty much any MINI.

The D300 microfiber pads work pretty well. I like to use them with Prima Swirl, but they don't last long, they are expensive when you need to use 4 or 5 pads per car and they don't last beyond a few uses. They also don't work on all paint types. Forget about them on soft paints or parts like the MINI A/C pillars.

Phil is a pretty busy guy and he probably won't have time to directly answer your question. Personally, I would take all of the suggestions thus far.

Do a test spot using Prima Swirl and a white pad first and ensure your techniques are perfect. Once your technique is down and you've made a few passes with improvements but maybe not your liking, go to an orange pad and compare the results. Keep using Swirl. You won't need Cut or a Yellow pad on a MINI unless you are specifically trying to take out a deep scratch or gouge.

Richard

 

Thats my plan, just trying to avoid using 20 different combinations at first because I don't know where to start on MINI paint. Thanks

This is pretty spot on to what I was asking/looking for. I more than understand that technique and experience make the difference, as with most things in life, and that I will likely not be seeing quite the level Phil reached without some serious technique. I was looking for a starting point really and seems like Swirl (or Adams Swirl&Haze) and a white LC pad (or Adams white pad) are the place to start, moving to the more agressive orange pad (from either product line) if results with white pad are not getting the desired effect. This, and the things suggested by others are a huge help for sure.

Had a hard time trying to "translate" other car paint correction techniques to the MINI. Thanks fellow detailing community!


Now, the wait for spring

 

I don't post my writeups on NAM much. Phil does it to advertise his products. But if you're interested in learning in a more direct way, visit my FaceBook page and check out the photo albums as I post almost daily there and respond to fan questions about my details. I've got lots of MINI details there as well.

https://www.facebook.com/ShowCarDetailing

Richard

 

When Richard describes the pads he's referrin to LC pads. If yours are a different brand the colors won't correlate and the results could be catastrophic.

His facebook page is great! I saw an 04 cooper S BRG/White like mine that is really got me chomping at the bit for some better weather to detail my car. It takes me the whole weekend from the dawn bath Friday night, clay, swirl, amigo, Banana Gloss on saturday Black wow, Epic, Hydro on Sunday. He does an impressive job and there are a crap ton of photos on his page.

 

Thanks! Yep, LC or Lake Country and B&S or Buff & Shine pads have the same density. Colors don't always correlate between pad manufacturers though. A yellow pad from Meguiar's is not the same as the yellow from LC. I use both LC and B&S pads..as well as sell them in my store, because sometimes the extra cutting power gained from a smaller diameter and thinner pad is desirable, though in some cases, because your paint is closer to the spinning backing plate, unexpected and undesirable results can occur..which happened even to me recently while polishing out a rear bumper on a Toyota Prius, and unintentionally rubbed the tailgate though I thought I was no where near it.

Richard

 

Although I know they are likely different in some way. I was referencing Adams and the LC pads by color based on their description of use mainly. I do feel as the Adams pads are of slightly better quality that the LC pads I have had over the last year or so which is why Im trying to lean towards using them instead at first and switching back to LC if I can't get the desired effect.

Thanks for the tip Richard on your FB page, saw it previously when I first bought my MINI and had completely forgot about it. Will have to check it out some more again.


Thanks all.

 

One of the biggest problems with vendors selling pads is that customers don't always realize that certain pads shapes are better than others. Most people sell and promote CCS pads or anything but flat. I find the flat pads work the best, and are easiest to clean. They also tend to last longer than the cut up pads, but getting flat pads is getting more difficult all the time.

Not sure if you've tried the LC or B&S flat pads yet, but tend to work better on both the PC or rotary than the more popular dimpled/waffle style pads.

Richard

 

Interesting that you say that as it does seem like the flat pads are hard to come by. Maybe I will give them another shot now that I have a better idea of combination and technique. Come on spring/summer.