Personal opinion here but I think you are missing out on the pleasure of making your MINI be all it can be. Of course your available time and space are unknown quantaties. The Griot's random orbital, clay, polish and wax kits are very easy to use and it only takes a little over an hour for the whole job excluding the time for a cold refreshment after each step. Of course then all the nooks and crannies under the bonnet, the wheel wells and cabin need attention but I save those for the next day. The best responses I get are when asked what year it is. I say it's an '06 with almost 50K and they tell me it looks brand new. I just smile and thank them.

 

I definitely think you're missing out as well. Waxing can be a pain and very time consuming, but there are so many products out there to make the job easier. I am no professional by any standards and I've incorporated waxing into my usual wash routine. Spray waxes are great-some don't even require you to dry the car after washing, just spray on, wipe, and buff. Personally, I've started using Turtle Wax ICE liquid wax and the stuff is amazing! It's a clear liquid-looks just like water, has the same viscosity as water, but smells really good. It comes with an applicator sponge and you just pour a very little bit on the sponge, wax on, wait a few minutes and wax off. NO WHITE RESIDUE! perfect for the darker color mini's or those very meticulous. It says on the bottle that it's perfectly safe for vinyl and that it is perfectly ok to use in the sunlight. I'd say the waxing altogether takes me an extra 15 minutes. The shine afterward is well worth it.

 

Waxed plenty of cars in my day and didn't like it then or now. If I had a good service that would come to my house and wash all the toys they would be hired. Todays finishes do not require the car of old paints. I good detail once a year and they are good to go. You will not even be able to get to the hood of my new JCW as it will have the whole hood venture shielded. All the surfaces require different products etc. I let them buf fit good and get all the swirls out of it then I maintain it the rest of the year. I would rather spend my time driving than cleaning or wrenching for that matter. Yes there is nothing like hand washing your own car before a drive. Honestly the MINI is the worst vehicle I won to wash. I woud rather do the big Dodge and there is twice as much metal. The Mini has more cracks and areas that hold water and wax it is unbelievable. My wife thought I was crazy. She washed it only once and never again.

 

Very interesting thread. As MCSBrendan pointed out many times, lots of misinformation being thrown around by well meaning persons. Let's start off with the easy stuff.

Dawn dishwashing soap is good for washing your car the first time and never using it again. It's pretty harsh on the rubber and plastics. It strips paint ONLY if you've got carnauba wax on it. It won't strip synthetics, well atleast not with one wash. Based on what I've read, the term synthetics might be over your head. So let me throw out some waxes that are synthetics. Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax, Zaino Polishes, and Prima Epic are synthetics.

For those that hate to wax, you don't need to look very far. While the well known name brands are readily available at your local store, there is a company known as Prima Car Care that has been a big supporter of the MINI community and this forum for the past 5 years or so. Seems none of you have heard about them. Probably because you haven't ventured into the Detailing101 forum yet. I wonder why though? Is it because you are satisfied with your current level of knowledge? Or are you scared to be around others with more knowledge?

Check out Prima Banana Gloss. About 4:14 into this video, you can see just how easy it is to wax your car. The first part shows how to use a buffer with Prima Amigo but you can skip that. You can hand wax your MINI in about 10 or 15 minutes. It's not that hard. You could do it in less time with Prima Hydro. Either way you'll get a few months of protection.



Did you get some wax or polish on your trim? Here's the best way to remove it. Forget about Peanut butter, peanut oil, solvents, alcohol, etc.. None of them work as effectively as Pre-Wow.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...this-week.html

How about restoring faded plastic arches and skirts? You could use other products and reapply it everytime you wash, or you could buy a bottle of Black Wow. Invented by a MINI enthusiast for MINI enthusiasts. One bottle will last the life of your MINI. You need to only apply a small amount every month or two. Better than Armor All..it leaves the trim matte, not shiny and greasy. Better than Mothers or Meguiar's because it looks better and lasts longer between applications.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ct/224/cat/101

The photograph of the hard water stains on the roof can be rectified with some vinegar as was mentioned. However you might find after removing the calcium deposits that a ghost was left. This is an impression also known as an etching. This needs to be removed by polishing the paint which could be done by hand or machine.

There are many different kinds of polishes. There are pure polishes that just add gloss and mask/conceal minor defects. Then there are abrasive polishes that level the paint. Whether you work an abrasive polish by hand or by machine, you need to physically abrade and remove paint in order to see it work. You can't just apply an abrasive polish like lotion then wipe it off. You have to work it in!

There are also many different types of waxes. They can pretty much be divided into "natural" or "synthetics" and then there are hybrids. A natural wax contains carnauba. They have less durability than synthetics but the shine tends to be warmer looking which is desirable on deep colors, and not so desirable on white or silver paint, since the warmth comes from a slight yellow tint. A synthetic wax gives high gloss and reflectivity as well as the best durability. The ideal combination is a synthetic wax with warmth comparable to a carnauba. That's known as Prima Epic. A cold hard shine and mirror like reflection comes from a synthetic known as Zaino.

Personally, I wash once a week, and wax twice a year with Epic. Although I also like to use Hydro and Banana Gloss, so you might find me waxing every couple of months as well.

Hope some of this helps you.

Richard

 

I read the Detailing 101 Forum a lot, but this was such a concise summary. Thanks!

 

You are welcome!

And for those that are suffering from not being able to wash because it's too cold, traditionally detailing has been a seasonal thing. You prep your car for winter by claying the paint to remove any contaminants so that the wax you are about to apply has the best chance of enduring through the winter since you can't do much. Then you put on a synthetic wax also known as a sealant. A carnauba won't last long enough, though some people will do a sealant first, followed by a carnauba. That's what I like on my black paint. Prima Epic twice a year, and Prima Banana Gloss every few months. The weather in California is different in that where I live, winters are only a bit rainy, and cool at 40 deg at night. But for those in the rest of the country, if you have the luxury of a heated garage, you might consider washing your car in it.

The obvious question is what do you do with all the water?

The answer, is you use a product that minimizes the water. The most popular "no rinse" is called ONR or Optimum No Rinse. Optimum is the brand. Even though it's a relatively safe way to wash a dirty car, you need to take precautions. So once again, being rinseless means exactly that. You don't hose the car down, you give it a sponge bath from a bucket. You don't rinse that off, you wipe the solution with a towel to dry it. ONR is very strong. It's basically a cleaner with some protective qualities. I have to wear gloves otherwise my skin gets so dry it cracks. I also pre rinse my car by using a small 1 gallon bug/insect sprayer. The kind you pump up to pressurize it. You can also use a Nomad battery powered pressure washer and put ONR in the reservoir tank. Either way, the point is, you want to get the solution on the car and let it dwell. If your fingers were strong enough, you could use a bottle sprayer too. I actually have an electric sprayer that I bought for $10 at the local Ace Hardware a while back.

Once it's on the car and it's softened the grime, then you can carefully wash. My first pass involves squeezing the grout sponge over the paint to let it push off the grime, yes there is some run off on the floor at this time. Clean the sponge thoroughly, then wipe the area again.

The two bucket method is helpful here. What is that method?

You use two buckets. One with soap water, and another with clean rinse water.

You fill the rinse bucket a bit less than the soap bucket, say 3/4 or 2/3rds full with plain water. I like to use warm water from the tap.

You put the grout sponge into the solution, wipe the car, put that dirty sponge in the clean rinse water to make the sponge clean, wring it out, then put back in the soap solution and wipe the car again. Repeat!

I personally would skip ONR during the winters unless I really got the itch. ONR still has the potential to do damage to your paint if you aren't very careful.

Hope that helps.

Richard

 

Hi Octane Guy:

Just an FYI, but I think your response would be so helpul to this thread-Floridian in the north, How do I clean.

 

+1 well said. Octane Guy you definitely know your stuff. I think I'll be needing a thorough professional detail on my new car. I have always been careful when washing my cars in the past but this is the first black car I've owned and after I gave it a first wash last week I have some light scratches/swirls on the hood already showing. Please PM me so I can get in touch with you.

 

Will do!
Thanks, seems your PM's isn't working, so I sent an email.

 

Hi, any tricks on removing fine scratches on the shiny black plastic pillars adjacent to the R56 rear hatch?

Thanks,
Mark

 

Same process as the A-pillars on the front. The glossy plastic can be improved two ways.

By machine with a PC


Or by hand with a product with fillers like Prima Amigo . This will darken and improve the look but won't get rid of the swirls, but it will certainly make it look better. The plastic is soft though. You could try rubbing it by hand, but that's too much effort for me. A PC with a 3" or 4" pad works best IMO.

 

Graci'!

Mark

 

I've been constantly looking at the weather forecast to see when the temps will be 40+, because my Cooper hasn't been washed in almost 2 months. Thats two months of snow/ice, road salt/sand, dirt, grime and exposure to all the other elements on the road still stuck onto the paint. After commuting in the snow this morning, and the rear hatch having black streaks of dirt on it, I'm getting more and more agitated. I absolutely REFUSE to take it to a car wash, and it's been too cold here to turn the hose/outside water on, so my question is, am I doing the car/paint a serious disservice by not washing it for this long and even longer? Come spring, am I going to see a noticeable difference in the paint when I finally am able to clean it up? I cannot stand this weather anymore, and there are no DIY wash places near me

 

I am pretty sure that Octane Guy has answered this question on the Detailing 101 forum . . . I will see if I can find the thread.

 

If you put a decent coat of synthetic wax before the snow, two months ago, then, the paint should be much safer getting accumulation, than trying to wash it in a less than optimal way now. I know it looks bad, and makes you feel worse, but as long as it's just accumulation, and you aren't rubbing that accumulation daily and abrading the paint surface, it should just need a thorough wash and clay when springs comes around. This is why it's so important to clay and do a synthetic wax for winter prep...without a clay first, the polymers won't bond properly to give you maximum protection..which is what you need now...maximum durability.

Richard


Strange, I thought I replied to this, but NAM has been painfully slow and sometimes when I submit my posts and go do something else, it doesn't actually post.

 

you must have telepathic powers, Octane Guy! Thanks for the answer that I was trying to find. I knew I had seen that information somewhere. . .

 

I say, as long as it is over 25, I can wash my MINI. Now, I do keep my wash hose inside, put about 8 cups of boiling water in both the wash and rinse buckets, and have lost feeling in my hands from time to time. But like you said, anything is better than an auto/self wash.

Even with that I still only wash twice a month, and wax about once a month.

 

thanks so much guys, it's definitely appreciated! I caved and brought it to a car wash, a reputable one at that, but I just couldn't stand it anymore. Told them to do the exterior only, brought it home and put a thick coat of wax on the entire car. MUCH better. Although, during my detailing process, the scratches on the roof became pretty evident, but i've come to realize that in my situation, its almost unavoidable , and I also noticed a small crease right above the tail light-thankfully its not very noticeable at all. Come the warmer weather, clay barring is first on my list

 

LOL! I just got done spending about 3.5 hours yesterday detailing my MINI and some guy at the bank this morning asked me asked me what year it was. I said a 2006 with 60K, and he said "That's amazing--it looks brand new!" Gott luv that!

 

Oh, and I use a lot of McGuire products for the inside and trim, and for the routine wash/wax, but use Mother's Carnuba cleaner/wax for a deeper sealing polish. Super easy and lovely shine.

 

I know Richard mentioned the 2 bucket method in his response above, but here is a bit more information on caring for your car and minimizing the swirls caused by washing.

Euroberge | Swirl Avoidance 101

 

The problem I have with the article is that the picture they show looks more like machine induced swirls. Bad washing techniques would have towel marks, holograms, and other hand induced defects. Maybe even scouring from brush marks.

To avoid swirls and scratches forever the answer is really simple.

1. Don't rub your paint, ever.
2. Don't let ANYONE rub your paint either...that means dealer, friend, local car wash.

Anytime you rub the paint, whether it's with a mitt, a towel, a sponge, or your bare hand, you have the potential to add swirls. Depending on the hardness and cleanliness of your paint, the ease of swirling and scratching increases with softer paint.

If you MUST rub your paint, do it carefully. If you use a lambswool wash mitt, use plenty of slippery soapy water so the mitt glides across the paint. Don't wipe the car end to end without cleaning and replenishing the lubricating soap on the mitt. Do a panel at a time. Wash that mitt thoroughly before you get it soapy again, using a second clean water bucket.

When you dry your paint, avoid rubbing it, or use the highest quality microfiber towels and wipe gently, or use the sheeting method with spot free water, or use the blot method with an Absorber towel. Lots of different ways to wash and maintain without abusing the paint.

This is what bad car washing does to your paint



Richard

 

Richard,

Do MINIs have more fragile paint than other cars? It seems so to me.

Dave

 

It depends on who the "other cars" are, lol. Mercedes, Audi/VW paint tend to be harder. Porsche paint tends to be softer. MINI is the same as BMW paint... course, fragile and hardness are two different things. When I refer to hardness, I'm talking about how easy it is to buff out defects. Harder paints resist it while softer paints are easier, but are also easier to scratch and harder to maintain! If you are referring to how easy it is to chip, that I'm not sure of, though I've read lots of posts about people complaining how easy the paint is get to rock chips...I don't find MINI paint to be more susceptible to damage than most other cars.

 

Adams Polishes FTW!!! i just got onto them a few months ago and couldnt be happier. I thought autoglym was great haha......

this is my washing process, i try and get it done every week, sometimes more if it rains. So far i havent had any new swirls (besides what the dealer put in) Im soon going to correct the paint so time will only tell if my method is safe enough that it doesnt put the swirls BACK in....i dont think so as im pretty **** about it as you can see and always wash my towels/mits after every wash and have back ups of them just incase i drop them on the ground....if they drop they are done and get exiled to door jambs never to return to paint haha

Here is my current washing process:
1)Tires
2)Wheels
3)Pre-Rinse
4) immediate foam cannon (let sit for 3-5 minutes)
5)Rinse
6)Foam Cannon (let sit for 2 or so minutes)
7)Wash car with adams high quality Mit using two bucket method with grit guard's
8)Rinse
9)Take nozzle off and and carefully hose car down from top to bottom with a laminar flow of water(sheeting method)
10) Immediately spray entire car down with Adams quick detailer
11) Use large CLEAN Adams waffle towel constantly folding working from top to mid then switch to 2nd clean towel to dry mid down.
12)Dry Door Jams
13)Clean Windows
14)Dry Tires
15)Add Tire Dressing