Ok, so I've had my 07 CR/B since august now and shortly after purchasing I ordered the largest of the Detailers Paradise packages, including a PC. I did my first wax job with the PC using only Amigo, following up with one coat of Epic. Since then I've been maintaining my finish with Hydro. My car stays parked outside, I live in Oregon, so the elements have taken a toll on her.

I have a general idea of what I would like to do as far as a full on spring detail is concerned, but also have some questions and of course am open to all suggestions.

First and foremost. I will wash and then claybar. I have a considerable amount of swirls in the paint at this point (very noticeable on my black roof) so I feel that a dose of prima swrl is in order! but what to follow it up with? should I go strait to Epic, or possibly include another step or 2 in between?

I also have some scratches along the top of the rear bumper (I will try and get some pics) should I try scratch X and if so what pad to use on the pc?

do you feel like it's ok to split the work up over two day? say wash and clay on sat. then polish and wax on sunday?

I'm not too concerned about the interior of the car, I can handle that ok. but exterior needs work! I want her lookin' good!

 

A wash and clay should only take an hour or so. But if you do have to wait to do the rest the next day, you will have to remove any dust, so a quick wash may be in order before you start again.

Mark

 

i really wouldn't recommend waiting. your best results will be the "one and done" philosophy. just spend a whole day working out your car's finish.

 

Wash with Dawn "regular" dishwashing soap before claying. When claying make sure you keep the area wet (lubed) and the clay bar moving. I am partial to Zaino clay ..... and do not like Griot's clay (just my opinion after using both). Scratch-X works fine by hand, and you may need several applications to get full results. I'd use an orange pad with Swirl on the roof followed by white with Finish. I also think this should be a one day deal, followed by another coat the next day of your finish product. Multiple coats does seem to pay off in the long run for me.

 

thanks guys! I am leaning toward doing it all in one day. If I start early I think I could manage ok.

 

If you have already waxed your car with epic, I see no reason why you would rewash with dawn. It says right on the bottle not for automotive finishes. Doing so will lead to dried out seals and trim, something that can already be an issue for us MINI owners. After that I agree with everything. If you cannot do it all in one day, do not worry. Just make sure that you use some quick detailer before you start polishing to insure you have a nice clean surface. Also, be sure to rinse your pads out every day, this will help them last longer. From there, have fun!

 

I agree, especially since you have to park outside.

-Heather

 

You'll likely have to use a slightly difference process on the black roof and on your CR body. The black, of course, shows more and is also softer than the red.

It's important to first note that every car and every paint can react slightly different than another. So, although I'll offer some suggestions, the most valuable advice I can offer is that you should always work an "experimental" spot of about 2'x2' until it's perfect. That way, you will have learned what pad/polish/timing/etc is best for that paint before you spend hours all over the car. I would do an experimental spot on both the black and the CR separately. I call this finding your precise prescription for your particular paint (and situation and your eye).

It's likely that as long as you work each section long enough (at least 2 full minutes and maybe longer), your CR areas will likely turn out great with just the orange pad and Swirl. You may need to do a finishing step of the white pad and Swirl to remove any fine hazing that may results from the orange/Swirl step. CR typically responds well to the orange/Swirl combo. Of course, you could try the white pad and Swirl first but it sounds like you have enough swirls in your paint that you will probably need the extra muscle of the orange pad.

For your black roof, I would first try the white pad with Finish and be sure to work each section for several minutes before reloading and moving on. You may find that you'll need the white pad and Swirl to remove the swirls you have.

As a general rule, you should use only as aggressive a combination of pad/polish as you need and no more, lest you create more work for yourself in the long run. However, you also don't want to waste your time doing a step that is too light-handed, only to have to do it all over again with a more aggressive combination. **Again, this illustrates the importance of doing an experimental area FIRST to find out what the best combo will be.**

As further assistance, here are 2 links to documents on our website which we provide to help you figure out the best combos as well as a step-by-step guide to abrasive polishing:

Selecting Your Pad & Polish

Polishing Tips and Techniques

(note: you can access these documents, as well as an article about Clay, on our website at any time by clicking on the Advice and Tips link at the top right of every page)


Finally, after and only after you have your paint looking just how you want it to look, apply a quick coat of Epic with the black pad.

You probably have a very long day ahead of you but it'll be great fun to see the final results!

-Heather

 

For your bumper scratches, I would use the orange pad and Swirl. As always, but especially for fixing scratches, be sure to work the area long enough- usually several minutes.

You may have to use the yellow pad and Swirl if the orange/Swirl combo isn't enough. If the scratches are really stubborn, you may need Cut and the orange pad. However, I would definitely try working the other combos first for several minutes before jumping up to Cut. Whenever you use Cut, you will definitely need follow-up steps to remove the inevitably hazing that comes with that level of correction.


Another point to remember, when machine polishing anywhere but especially on narrow or odd spots like bumpers, is to make sure you keep the pad oscillating (spinning) in addition to the vibrations. In other words, you need to make sure that you do not add pressure to the polisher and thereby bog the machine down. If it is only vibrating and not oscillating, your effectiveness drops dramatically and sometimes down to zero.

How can you tell if it is still oscillating??
The best trick I know is to make tick marks on your backing plates. Otherwise, it will often appear to be oscillating when really it is only vibrating. The vibrations make it very difficult to see if it's still spinning. The tick marks give you a reference point to watch.

Here is what I mean by tick marks on your backing plate:





-Heather

 

Heather,

Thank you so much for all the usefull advice! I was not aware of the variations between the two colors of paint. Good to know! I will definitely use your 2x2 test method, on the Red I may just try the swirl w/white pad combo to start, like you said, it that doen't do it, I can always up it to the orange. I also have Octane Guy's PC video, so I did pick up that very usefull tip about marking the backing plate I think it's about time to watch that one again. So now I'm just waiting for a nice sunny weekend to come along.

 

If you get into a pinch and need some guidance you can always try calling us. You never know if you'll catch us on a weekend but it's worth a try if you need some help. And, I'm always willing to give out my cell phone to anyone who asks. That way I can be reached fairly easily on a weekend. (I just don't dare post my cell phone on the internet so I'll only give it to individuals by request! )

Good luck and have fun!

-Heather

 

That's great, talk about going the extra mile. I'm not sure when I'll actually get a nice weekend (it's raining quite hard righ now actually ) but it's really nice to know that professional help is available. So far this has been a fun learning experience.

 

I would further recommend getting the smaller 4" disk and a white & black 4" pad. I have found that for the bumper, boot and the swoopy headlight areas as well as the A pillar and the header on my vert the 4" pads come in very handy. But with a smaller pad the action is more pronounced so if you use a 6" orange, you will only need a 4" white. Also for stubborn areas I will mix Swirl and Cut 50/50. I have never created hazed paint using this combo but it is more aggressive than Swirl but less so than Cut.

 

Awesome! thanks for the tip Minimaybee. Now I've got a DP order to place Hmmm...lets see, I could use a gallon of hydro, gallon of Clarity and I'm also really anxious to try out Octane Guy's black wow.

 

I put a coat of Epic on my new PW back in September and have tried to wash it once a week even in the cold. And with all washings sine the Epic I've been using Hydro. When it finally gets nice do I need to re-apply Epic? And if so, what kind of prep do I need to do with what I've already applied?

I have to admit that having it in a garage and keeping it clean as much as possible it still looks great even with an Ohio winter.

 

If it ever gets warm again I will be doing my spring detailing. Since I have Epic on and use Hydro, I start with a good washing with just Gold Class. Then I spritz a mix of 50% alcohol and 50% water to strip the Epic (which I know has lasted the winter). Clay using Glide, treat the trim with Black WOW, polish with Swirl then Amigo and top it all off with another coat of Epic.
I've tried to prep by doing a Dawn wash (didn't phase the Epic) and with P21S Total Auto Wash (too expensive and not enough stripping). I've used vinegar (too stinky but it did strip Epic) and settled into the alcohol/water mix as being most effective and economical.

 

Do you spritz and wipe? Do you rinse after spritzing?

 

I just move from spritzing to claying. By the time I start claying the alcohol has dried so it does not deteriorate my clay. Whatever residual Epic is left the clay will take it off, but there isn't much if any left. I mean the Epic is still there, but the alcohol has broken the polymer chains so it is no longer adhering to the paint or itself. Actually acid is really good at breaking polymers too which is why the vinegar worked so well but I can't stand the smell.

 

I hate to be too **** here, but what kind (mixture-Rubbing etc.) of alcohol do you use?

 

I just use the 91% isopropyl (rubbing) that I pick up from the grocery. Oh and I mix it with distilled water from the grocery as well.

 

See, all the little details are coming out! Distilled?

 

Distilled or de-ionized would work. You can buy it at the grocery in 1 gallon jugs. Some use it in their irons to eliminate mineral deposits.

 

Oh I know what it is, I just wondered why you used it in this case.

 

Because it sounds high-tech (and my tap water would leave spots).

 

OK, as long as you have a good reason!