Brake replacement
Hello everyone,
This is my first post here so I hope I'm asking my question in the right place.
I have a 2018 Countryman s All 4. I want to replace all brake pads and rotors. I just read that I have to put the car in service mode. Can this be done without a scanner? If not, which scanner do you recommend to do the job that will not cost me a second mortgage?
Thanks all
Carl
This is my first post here so I hope I'm asking my question in the right place.
I have a 2018 Countryman s All 4. I want to replace all brake pads and rotors. I just read that I have to put the car in service mode. Can this be done without a scanner? If not, which scanner do you recommend to do the job that will not cost me a second mortgage?
Thanks all
Carl
Service Mode via a computer interface is in order to "back off" the electric parking brake. I did mine without a "scanner" by manually backing off the electric parking brake. It's just an extra screw (or two, I forget) to open up the electric motor, and a torx-fitting (if I recall correctly) to manually turn the motor, which retracts the brake pads. If you are willing to do the rest of the procedure, this is very simple.
By the way, I had to make a trip to the auto-parts store to get an odd "star-shaped" socket to get the rear calipers off...so, be ready for that! And, boy were those buggers snugged down tight! Mine may have had some "lock-tite" type stuff on them from the factory...I did mine at 13,xxx miles because I wanted different rotors and pads on this car. The OEM's were so dusty, and squealed a lot no matter what I did...I could quieten them down for a while, but, they'd start squealing again soon. Went with slotted and ceramic pads. Much better. Now, only squeal if going in reverse. I can take that!
By the way, I had to make a trip to the auto-parts store to get an odd "star-shaped" socket to get the rear calipers off...so, be ready for that! And, boy were those buggers snugged down tight! Mine may have had some "lock-tite" type stuff on them from the factory...I did mine at 13,xxx miles because I wanted different rotors and pads on this car. The OEM's were so dusty, and squealed a lot no matter what I did...I could quieten them down for a while, but, they'd start squealing again soon. Went with slotted and ceramic pads. Much better. Now, only squeal if going in reverse. I can take that!
Thanks for the reply.
I think I'm going to try to get a scanner anyway. I probably will need it in the future. Especially if I do more work on the mini.
Any recommendations for not too pricy scanner?
Are they Torx screws?
Carl
I think I'm going to try to get a scanner anyway. I probably will need it in the future. Especially if I do more work on the mini.
Any recommendations for not too pricy scanner?
Are they Torx screws?
Carl
RE: Scanner...all I know is don't scrimp on it, or, it will only give generic codes which don't precisely point out the problem. ECS Tuning has some nice scanners that should work well on the Mini.
If I recall correctly, the internal screw that backs the motor off is a torx, but, the tough to remove outer screw/bolts are "star" patterned...the mirror opposite of torx.
RE: Scanner...all I know is don't scrimp on it, or, it will only give generic codes which don't precisely point out the problem. ECS Tuning has some nice scanners that should work well on the Mini.
RE: Scanner...all I know is don't scrimp on it, or, it will only give generic codes which don't precisely point out the problem. ECS Tuning has some nice scanners that should work well on the Mini.
Happy Easter
Carl
I checked it out, it's just two hex-key head (aka: allen wrench) bolts that hold the electric brake motor together. It isn't difficult to take apart at all...in case you decide to tackle this before you get a scanner that can do it. Best regards...
Service Mode via a computer interface is to "back off" the electric parking brake. I did mine without a "scanner" by manually backing off the electric parking brake. It's just an extra screw (or two, I forget) to open up the electric motor, and a torx-fitting (if I recall correctly) to manually turn the motor, which retracts the brake pads. If you are willing to do the rest of the procedure, this is very simple.
By the way, I had to make a trip to the auto parts store to get an odd "star-shaped" socket to get the rear calipers off...so, be ready for that! And, boy were those buggers snugged down tight! Mine may have had some "lock-tite" type stuff on them from the factory fox names...I did mine at 13,xxx miles because I wanted different rotors and pads on this car. The OEM's were so dusty, and squealed a lot no matter what I did...I could quieten them down for a while, but, they'd start squealing again soon. Went with slotted and ceramic pads. Much better. Now, only squeal if going in reverse. I can take that!
By the way, I had to make a trip to the auto parts store to get an odd "star-shaped" socket to get the rear calipers off...so, be ready for that! And, boy were those buggers snugged down tight! Mine may have had some "lock-tite" type stuff on them from the factory fox names...I did mine at 13,xxx miles because I wanted different rotors and pads on this car. The OEM's were so dusty, and squealed a lot no matter what I did...I could quieten them down for a while, but, they'd start squealing again soon. Went with slotted and ceramic pads. Much better. Now, only squeal if going in reverse. I can take that!
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Why did you quote me, where I tell how to manually release the electric parking brake motor, then say it "can't be done without a scanner"? Yes, it can be done. It's not difficult. No scanner required.
Last edited by Mini-Titan; Dec 16, 2024 at 07:25 PM. Reason: added link
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