Ran over chunck of metal, need two new tires
6th Gear
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,406
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From: Northeast Ohio
Tirerack.com... A NAM sponsor has good prices and probably a partner closer to you than the dealer who can install at a decent price... You can order the tires from Tire Rack and they'll drop ship them to the installer.
I've found that you can actually negotiate the tire prices with the dealer. Similar issue happened to me. My tire wasn't holding air as the bead wouldn't seat correctly (what my MA told me when i brought it in). They quoted me $400 for the runflat. While they were working on it, i went online and found the tire cheaper ($350). I called my MA to try to get him to stop working on it because of the price difference. He didn't get back to me until the tire was already on. After a bit of back and forth, he ended up matching the price. It was probably more because he didn't want to have to take the tire off and do double work, but that experience told me they can adjust prices if they want to be competitive. Doesn't hurt to ask about price matching.
OP should feel blessed to have the run flat instead of the non-runflat in this case. As OP could had need to replace the rim too. And the OeM rims aren't cheap.
U may want to consider the wheel and tire warranty next time you purchase a new car, regardless of brand.
My wife's Mercedes just have 3 flat tires this morning, 2 in the front, 1 in the back. She basically ran over a metal bar on interstate, one of the rims cracked. Thank god her wheel and tries warranty expires on the 19th of this month. So we are covered. And feel so lucky.
Edit: just to add that we total replaced 2 rims,6 tires during the 5 year terms of warranty. So I am pretty sure the warranty paid itself off. We purchased the warranty for $795. Worth considering.
Last edited by 3leafz; Sep 14, 2013 at 04:21 PM.
2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 134
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I bought a extra rim and a spare tire keep it in the little trunk.
Wheel (exact same as what came on the car) was $400, almost the price of a runflat.
So yes, in his case, maybe would had broke even.
Splurged on the tire and that was still way less than $200...
PLUS everybody will fix them, excepting if the side wall gets it.
Sidewalls rarely get it in my experience...
I'm never trashed a rim, so the laws of averages are way way in your favor ditching the runflats.
Wheel (exact same as what came on the car) was $400, almost the price of a runflat.
So yes, in his case, maybe would had broke even.
Splurged on the tire and that was still way less than $200...
PLUS everybody will fix them, excepting if the side wall gets it.
Sidewalls rarely get it in my experience...
I'm never trashed a rim, so the laws of averages are way way in your favor ditching the runflats.
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3leafz, I'm definitely glad I had the runflats in that case, I would have been on the side of the interstate in an instant like the guy in front of me was. It's the main reason I decided to replace them with runflats rather than go with 4 nonRF tires.
Unfortunately, I purchased them through tirerack instead of DiscountTire (same price, but without the week shipping) and had DT mount/rotate. Ended up with both new tires in back, about a week and a half ago, had a low tire warning. Ignored it thinking it was weather related. Yesterday took it in and they checked it out and said I had a nail. Month old $200 tire! Grr. He was on the computer looking me up for a replacement (Discount Tire replaces tires for 3 years.. I should have gone with them) But since I got it through TireRack they won't do that obviously.
I had a loaner MINI with a flat that they patched that RF, but they showed me a chart and half the manufacturers will allow repairing RF and half won't. I know a lot of people on the forum say whoever says you cant, is wrong.. but they have to go by that chart and won't repair it for me. They said it has to do with how the tires are made, and that a repair can ruin the integrity of the tire. Of course the R60 RF are on the "Do Not Repair" side.
Does anyone recommend finding a shop willing to repair it? Consensus on the forums seems to be if it wasn't driven long on zero pressure, wearing the inner structure of the tire, then it was fine to replace as long as it was in the center of the tread. I don't think I ever reached zero pressure (in however long driving on it low, ~1.5 week-ish) the guy only said it was "pretty low" so I'm not sure how much damage there is to the RF structure if any.. And he said it was a little roofing nail, barely bubbling. Not a tire guy, but to me, that means it would be a 2 second fix on a 'normal' tire. And also sounds like it won't destroy the ability of the runflat.
Or should I pay the 225 for a new tire/mount/balance through Discount Tire so when this happens again they replace the tire for free?
And fused, I really want the cheaper cost and ride quality of non-RF, but things like this seem to happen to me a lot.. and I don't have room for a spare, I'm always having something in the boot space and don't want to be caught on the side of the road or interstate. Which by the way, did anyones R60 come with that kit that the R56 did? I think it had a jack and tow hook and a couple other things?? I just realized I don't have that.
Unfortunately, I purchased them through tirerack instead of DiscountTire (same price, but without the week shipping) and had DT mount/rotate. Ended up with both new tires in back, about a week and a half ago, had a low tire warning. Ignored it thinking it was weather related. Yesterday took it in and they checked it out and said I had a nail. Month old $200 tire! Grr. He was on the computer looking me up for a replacement (Discount Tire replaces tires for 3 years.. I should have gone with them) But since I got it through TireRack they won't do that obviously.
I had a loaner MINI with a flat that they patched that RF, but they showed me a chart and half the manufacturers will allow repairing RF and half won't. I know a lot of people on the forum say whoever says you cant, is wrong.. but they have to go by that chart and won't repair it for me. They said it has to do with how the tires are made, and that a repair can ruin the integrity of the tire. Of course the R60 RF are on the "Do Not Repair" side.
Does anyone recommend finding a shop willing to repair it? Consensus on the forums seems to be if it wasn't driven long on zero pressure, wearing the inner structure of the tire, then it was fine to replace as long as it was in the center of the tread. I don't think I ever reached zero pressure (in however long driving on it low, ~1.5 week-ish) the guy only said it was "pretty low" so I'm not sure how much damage there is to the RF structure if any.. And he said it was a little roofing nail, barely bubbling. Not a tire guy, but to me, that means it would be a 2 second fix on a 'normal' tire. And also sounds like it won't destroy the ability of the runflat.
Or should I pay the 225 for a new tire/mount/balance through Discount Tire so when this happens again they replace the tire for free?
And fused, I really want the cheaper cost and ride quality of non-RF, but things like this seem to happen to me a lot.. and I don't have room for a spare, I'm always having something in the boot space and don't want to be caught on the side of the road or interstate. Which by the way, did anyones R60 come with that kit that the R56 did? I think it had a jack and tow hook and a couple other things?? I just realized I don't have that.
You drove a week and a half on alow tire, I would replace it. I would and have repaired runflats with drivingon them with at least 20 PSI of air for maybe a mile. No science here but ifthe tire goes to 0 psi do not move it if you intend on repairing it. I would not expect a name brand shop torepair it either. Most places won’trepair a RFT even if it has air in it as people could have driven on it flatand then pumped air in it to get to the shop.
The proper way to repair apuncture is to do a patch/plug. Theydismount the tire clean the rubber and vulcanize a patch to the inside that hasa plug built in that fills the void of where your puncture was. This is very good. I use a simple plug kit from Matco that I gotas a gift when I began driving by myself at 16 (11 years ago). I know it isn’t as good but they have held at140+ with no issues.
As for the R60 I think some ofthe tool stuff is under the front seats.
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