What cylinder head should I get for my Cooper:
- Cylinder head, ported and polished-standard valves
- Cylinder head, ported and polished-big valve head

I am not too worried about the price difference but it must give me the best performance. Do I need some modification if I want a big valve head? I mean, is the fitment of a standard valve head the same as a big head (no other mod needed)?

 

This head looks interesting;
http://www.minispeed.co.uk/new_mini/...ct&id=head-std

Price is pretty good. What do you guys think?

 

I have never driven a modified Cooper but after reading this thread I am interested.....without the parasitic drag of the SC.....I'll bet the throttle response is very good......

 

there is another thread about MTH which talks about the merits of larger exhaust valves......seems the consensus is that is the bottle neck.....I have large valves on my MCS and it runs strong......
are there no issues with putting an MCS head on a Cooper?

I have never thought about the diff of the throttle response but with no SC I'll bet i is much snappier.......is that so?

 

Oh, it's VERY snappy...

All the MINI heads are the same... the S head does have better valves (Inconel vs. crap metal), so it is preferable for a base to start the port/polish process (IMHO) if you plan to re-use stock valves. All the OEM MINI cams have the same profile, too.

I do not think that MINI screwed up with the sizes of their valves - and especially not so on the Cooper. The S may benefit from larger exhaust valves, but I can't see the Cooper getting much more of a benefit.

Once you see what's behind the valves, you'll see just how much room there is for improvement... removing that material will make a HUGE difference in flow in and of itself.

If I had an S, I would have opted for bigger valves to complement what other mods I would have - pulley, etc. But, since I don't have an S, I don't have to worry about that...

Some things to consider if you go with big valves... IMHO, it's necessary to upgrade the valvetrain at the same time with bigger valves. This means new retainers, shims, springs. Also, note that you will have to pay for a valve job - the seals will need to be re-cut for the new valves.

The Schrick cam for the Cooper is GREAT... smooth idle and great range!

 

The volume of air between the TB and the intake valves is much smaller on the cooper than the S. This is the basis for the difference in throttle response.

Matt

 

Also figure in the 18# flywheel for the MC vs the 28# flywheel for the MCS.

 

Would there be any worthwhile gains to be had for a factory JCW MCS to remove the head and do a clean-up on the CNC P&P done by JCW? What about doing an extrude hone & port matching vs. another port and polishing job done by a good vendor shop? Thanks for your feedback.
Larry

 

After giving this some thought if you eally want more power sell and buy a used MCS...... "halon and nomex engaged" ...... TB will be a waste..... getting mods to integrate can be a nightmare...... it is not as easy as bolt on and go..... a head with big valves may not be what you need but rather a cleaned up head..... I really think you might consider an MCS for that kind of money you could #1 make a mess (I have been there and it can cost lots to fix) #2 have a very nicely integrated factory car with warranty if you buy right..... if you can afford it you get an 05 with the new gears and your set.... #3 leave you engine stock .... improve your suspension and brakes......take driving schools and give your friends with MCSs fits

 

I like Spidey's #3 -

leave your engine stock .... improve your suspension and brakes......take driving schools and give your friends with MCSs fits

Oh, and tires.

 

I haven't seen the stock head to compare, but from what I can tell on the JCW head, only the exhaust ports have been smoothed. My brother has a neon with a full-race ported head and its a work of art. Enlarged, smoothed intake and exhaust and what I suspect, very good flow. BTW, comparing MINI heads to Neon heads is like looking at a slightly larger identical twin.

The work on the Neon head even included larger valves for a grand total of about $850. It pays to find a reputable shop... one that the venders probably source anyways

 

Hey people, thanks for keeping this thread alive. I haven't checked it in a while, sorry.. lol...

I third-agree on that, but the thing is - that's done. Aside from the driving school (but does Karting school count?).

I've finished 99% of my exterior/interior changes, I'm 100% done with suspension and brakes, all I need now is more power. I'm about 30% into the power-upgrade, with intake and exhaust, but I still have big plans for the little guy...

So as I thought before, my goal is to get the ALTA headers (that's for sure), then I was (and still am) debating about the M7 Throttle Body (for the right price, I might do it...), and the ECU upgrade. Those are for sure. I just wasn't sure if I should go for a cylinder head, as well. I know that would be the best thing to do to get power, but I'm not sure I got the funds all at once... I did talk to my mechanic-guy and we came up with some numbers: for a polished & machined cylinder head + Shrik camshaft (check spelling), and installation - $2500. That's reasonable, but it's still way more than I could afford right away.

Thanks for the comments though.
Leo.

PS: Please don't tell me "sell your car and buy an S", because I hate that. If you wanna know why I chose the non-S to begin with, please ask, but don't assume I'm not happy with the car and want something else, please.

 

I'd have to say save your $ and get a head when you can. Other than a pulley, the head is the key to unlocking power. So you can etiher nickel and dime your self to death on adders that don't do very much, or you can spend for the head and really unlock the power potential of the motor.....

After you've done that, all the other adders will have a chance of adding more power.

Matt

 

I'd have to say save your $ and get a head when you can. Other than a pulley, the head is the key to unlocking power. So you can etiher nickel and dime your self to death on adders that don't do very much, or you can spend for the head and really unlock the power potential of the motor.....

After you've done that, all the other adders will have a chance of adding more power.

Matt

 

I'd have to say save your $ and get a head when you can. Other than a pulley, the head is the key to unlocking power. So you can etiher nickel and dime your self to death on adders that don't do very much, or you can spend for the head and really unlock the power potential of the motor.....

After you've done that, all the other adders will have a chance of adding more power.

Matt

 

Dr Obnxs: Tripple reply there!

I am thinking that the head is the key to both the MC and MCS!