Cooper Exhaust How-to (remus)
#1
04-30-2005, 11:50 AM
Cooper Exhaust How-to (Remus)
*******
CAUTION: PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK
As with all mods or DIY articles, the information provided here is without warranty. I am providing the steps for your information, but beware that problems may occur and that you accept full responsibility. Should you encounter any problems, please take a deep breath and post your problems to this thread and we will all do our best to assist you. I am not a professional mechanic. In fact, this was my first time working on an aftermarket exhaust, but I spent many weeks researching this subject.
************
On Friday, April 22, 2005, my buddy Phubear2 drove to Chatsworth to pick up two Remus Cooper exhaust kits that RemusUSA was selling on eBay for 50% off ($199 instead of $400). What a terrific deal on a brand new exhaust system! Over the course of the next few days we installed both systems and learned a lot from the process. The pix in this article were taken from the 2 different installation dates, but both cars were 2003 Coopers built within a few months of each other. The Silk Green Cooper is a CVT while the Indi Blue is a 5 Speed.
This article is for installing the Remus MINI Exhaust on a 2003 MINI COOPER
Total Time for beginner to install: Approx. 3-5 hours
Tip! Have all your tools ready before you begin, and study what you are about to do several times!
Before tackling this job, I have to admit I was both fearful and excited by the prospect of doing what seemed like a major job. I knew beforehand that I could pay a muffler shop anywhere from $40 to $80 to have it done, but I really wanted to have the satisfaction of doing it myself. In the end, I mostly surpervised and assisted my friend while he did the bulk of the work. Nevertheless, it was still exciting!
So before we begin, let's talk about your Remus. You've probably heard the following by now.
This is the cut OEM pipe that's been removed from the exhaust flange. I've preassembled the Remus for test fitting here. The clamp that holds the Remus to the exising OEM piping has not been tightened yet.
That fatter tube on the end is known as the resonator. It's just a tube with a larger tube around it with holes, and it's whole purpose is to control the sound that is produced. Some people will go as far as cutting it out and welding a straight piece of pipe in its place just to make their exhaust louder. When you buy a cat back system like a Magnaflow, you get this pipe that extends to the resonator as well. In actuality, the amount of piping that is replaced isn't all that significant.
Please note that there are many ways to install an exhaust, and I don't claim this to be the best nor fastest way to do it. Some people have gotten away with dismantling only a portion of what is described here, but for completeness, I have documented all the steps we went through and once you understand the process, feel free to improve anything that I describe here!
The first time we installed the exhaust, we took our time. It was night time, cold, we took lots of pix, and double checked everything and took us 5 hours. The 2nd time we had a better idea of what to do and took us only about 3 hours. Neither one of us had experience in doing an exhaust, so while there are others who claim to have done it quicker, I'm satisfied in knowing that we learned a great deal more about our cars for something that used to be very mysterious!
SOME HELPFUL TIPS:
What's the primary difference you ask?
Installation, and weight savings. With a cat-back system, you just unbolt the system, and replace it with the new exhaust. With the Remus, you unbolt the system, and CUT the pipe with a hacksaw about 24 inches from the specified location, slip on the Remus, tighten the provided clamp, and reinstall everything. But because you are utilizing OEM parts, you won't save much weight in the manner, but the build quality of the Remus is superior over OEM!
What if I want to put the OEM exhaust back on?
Now that I've seen and experienced the Remus, there isn't a doubt in my mind about wanting to go back to the OEM exhaust. The Remus sounds and feels better, while in many cases seems just as loud as OEM. The Remus doesn't scream aftermarket either. Its got a fat tip that's bigger than OEM, has a good looking Remus engraving, and the sound is definitely throatier.
INSTALLATION BEGINS HERE:
(REMOVE SPARE TIRE)
Start off by removing your spare tire, then using 2 jacks, get your car on jack stands. We used Rhino Ramps on the rear. While it's not 100% necessary to remove the spare, it makes the job easier!
Locate some boxes of different sizes. Stacking empty shoe boxes works well, as are old computer hardware boxes. You will use these to support the exhaust as it's removed. On a stock Cooper that isn't lowered, you will want a stack around 15 or 16 inches tall. (You will want 2 sets, one placed on the cat converter that's left hanging, and one on the resonator part of the exhaust you are removing. This will become apparent once you're under the car and find that once the bolts are removed, you will need a means of support for both loose ends!)
(LIFT CAR BY WHATEVER SAFE MEANS)
I used 2 racing jacks placed just in front and inside of the OEM jack points. If you get on the ground, you can see this flat area. Make sure you angle the jack as close to the tire as possible, because you will then slip in a jack stand in the OEM jack point. If you don't do it right, the jack will be in the way, and you'll have to do it again. Once on the jack stands, slightly lower the jack so that the car is resting securely on the stands, and leave both the stands and jack in place. It's best to have 2 people doing this at the same time (1 on each side).
We used Rhino Ramps for the rear because that flat spot doesn't exist on the rear and so I couldn't find a way to lift the car safely.
Having a creeper can be helpful, but in this case, we didn't want to lift the car too high, just so we would have room to use the creeper. The Jack Stands were set with 3 exposed notches with the 4th notch locking it in place. We could have gone higher, but I wanted to match the height of the Rhino Ramps. So instead we just laid down some unfolded cardboard boxes and slide around on them! Also make sure you have sockets at hand!
(REMOVE EXISTING EXHAUST)
To remove the exhaust, you need to support the exhaust at the front of it and the rear of it like this. The front support is actually for the part of the exhaust that isn't removed, but you don't want it hanging. Height is around 15 inches tall. For the rear, you can either use a box or if you've got extra jack stands and a piece of wood will work too!
Just work from front to back. First you will remove the 2 exhaust flange bolts. These are really tight. Make sure exhaust is COLD!! So again, make sure the car is fully supported because you will need to apply a lot of force to remove these bolts, and you don't want the car falling on you!! Once you've undone these two bolt, slide another 15" tall box to support the exhaust, or just be sure to have someone hold it before you remove the bolt and slide out the exhaust.
You will need 15mm sockets for this.
After you've removed those flange bolts, move towards the rear of the car. You can remove the exhaust support tray next. You will need 10mm sockets.
Remove the rear exhaust support strap. You will need 10mm sockets. Once you've done this, the entire exhaust should drop out, and will hopefully be resting on the support boxes you laid out!
Wondering what the stock rear hangers look like? At this point, you can opt to remove the hanger strap or you can remove the red rubber mounts. This is how we did it. It's a really tight fit to remove them, but it's doable. Once you remove the rubber mounts, you can saw the hanger strap off since you will be discarding this and keeping only the red rubber mounts. In case you accidentally destroy them, it'll cost you $50 from the local dealer to replace them, because they come in a kit that includes the parts you don't need!!
A small vise and a hacksaw work great to free those rubber mounts without damaging them! By cutting the nub off you can slip the mount off and you won't be cursing about how difficult it is to remove! Don't bother trying to pry them out with a screwdriver either. The rubber is very fragile and will tear (don't ask me how I know this!)
(MEASURING/CUTTING EXISTING OEM EXHAUST)
Measure from the middle of the forward rubber mounts to the exhaust end and allow between 24 to 25 inches. You can use a hacksaw or an exhaust pipe cutter. We tried a $24 exhaust cutter from Pep Boys and ran into some problems with getting a straight cut, so we resorted to the good old standby, the hacksaw and it worked perfectly. After a few minutes of cutting it was separated and we used a file or 60 grit sandpaper to smooth/deburr the cut end (60 grit was used because that's what was on hand. I would have used a file if I had one!)
(PREPARING REMUS EXHAUST)
The end of your Remus should look like this.
Just loosen and discard this portion since it won't be used.
The end of the Remus should look like this now.
Test fit the Remus over the OEM Exhaust
(FINISHING UP AND INSTALLING REMUS EXHAUST)
Remus Looks Very Nice!!!
Support the Remus exhaust with a box or jack stands with a cross bar. I added a 2x4 since the box wasn't tall enough.
Reinstall the new assembly (leaving the above clamp loose so that you can make final positioning adjustments while under the car). Start with the front exhaust flange. You might apply some Anti Seize compound to the exhaust flange bolts to make them easier to remove in the future. You can buy this from Pep Boys or Autozone for around $3 to $5.
Tighten up all remaining bolts!!! Enjoy your new Remus Exhaust!!
Side by Side comparison!
SUPPORTING MATERIALS
LISTEN TO HOW IT SOUNDS (MP3)
I tried to maintain the same mic angle for each clip. The Remus sounds lower and bit more "throaty". No audio processing has been performed. Sound file opens in new window. Disable Pop Up Blocker if needed.
Remus Idle (OEM First then Remus) (105kb)
Remus Vrooom Vrooom (OEM First then Remus) (267kb)
VIEW RANDY WEBB TUTORIAL (this is a handy tutorial but it's not for the absolute beginner as it assumes a certain level of knowledge and not all the pictures show the true sequence of steps which can be confusing)
Magnaflow Installation PDF
View Remus thread on NorthAmericanMotoring.com
My Front Brake Pad Replacement article (good details on jack placement)
Remus Website
CAUTION: PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK
As with all mods or DIY articles, the information provided here is without warranty. I am providing the steps for your information, but beware that problems may occur and that you accept full responsibility. Should you encounter any problems, please take a deep breath and post your problems to this thread and we will all do our best to assist you. I am not a professional mechanic. In fact, this was my first time working on an aftermarket exhaust, but I spent many weeks researching this subject.
************
On Friday, April 22, 2005, my buddy Phubear2 drove to Chatsworth to pick up two Remus Cooper exhaust kits that RemusUSA was selling on eBay for 50% off ($199 instead of $400). What a terrific deal on a brand new exhaust system! Over the course of the next few days we installed both systems and learned a lot from the process. The pix in this article were taken from the 2 different installation dates, but both cars were 2003 Coopers built within a few months of each other. The Silk Green Cooper is a CVT while the Indi Blue is a 5 Speed.
This article is for installing the Remus MINI Exhaust on a 2003 MINI COOPER
Total Time for beginner to install: Approx. 3-5 hours
Tip! Have all your tools ready before you begin, and study what you are about to do several times!
Before tackling this job, I have to admit I was both fearful and excited by the prospect of doing what seemed like a major job. I knew beforehand that I could pay a muffler shop anywhere from $40 to $80 to have it done, but I really wanted to have the satisfaction of doing it myself. In the end, I mostly surpervised and assisted my friend while he did the bulk of the work. Nevertheless, it was still exciting!
So before we begin, let's talk about your Remus. You've probably heard the following by now.
- The Remus is cheaper because you need to cut your existing exhaust
- Be prepared for welding or complete removal of your exhaust!!
- The OEM exhaust is very heavy!!!
This is the cut OEM pipe that's been removed from the exhaust flange. I've preassembled the Remus for test fitting here. The clamp that holds the Remus to the exising OEM piping has not been tightened yet.
That fatter tube on the end is known as the resonator. It's just a tube with a larger tube around it with holes, and it's whole purpose is to control the sound that is produced. Some people will go as far as cutting it out and welding a straight piece of pipe in its place just to make their exhaust louder. When you buy a cat back system like a Magnaflow, you get this pipe that extends to the resonator as well. In actuality, the amount of piping that is replaced isn't all that significant.
Please note that there are many ways to install an exhaust, and I don't claim this to be the best nor fastest way to do it. Some people have gotten away with dismantling only a portion of what is described here, but for completeness, I have documented all the steps we went through and once you understand the process, feel free to improve anything that I describe here!
The first time we installed the exhaust, we took our time. It was night time, cold, we took lots of pix, and double checked everything and took us 5 hours. The 2nd time we had a better idea of what to do and took us only about 3 hours. Neither one of us had experience in doing an exhaust, so while there are others who claim to have done it quicker, I'm satisfied in knowing that we learned a great deal more about our cars for something that used to be very mysterious!
SOME HELPFUL TIPS:
- Confirm your model year is within spec--2002 to 2003.
- Make sure the exhaust is cold. If it's warm, the bolts will be a lot harder to remove off the flange.
- Have all tools at hand (sizes below)
- Cardboard boxes and shoe boxes are very helpful and necessary. Have some unfolded ones too to use as pads. Towels can be used as well, but cardboard tends to slide easier along the ground. Think of these as cheap "creepers".
- Sockets Needed:
15mm (exhaust flange)
10mm (supporting tray & muffler strap)
13mm (rear hanger nuts) - Anti Seize Compound is optional for exhaust flange bolts
What's the primary difference you ask?
Installation, and weight savings. With a cat-back system, you just unbolt the system, and replace it with the new exhaust. With the Remus, you unbolt the system, and CUT the pipe with a hacksaw about 24 inches from the specified location, slip on the Remus, tighten the provided clamp, and reinstall everything. But because you are utilizing OEM parts, you won't save much weight in the manner, but the build quality of the Remus is superior over OEM!
What if I want to put the OEM exhaust back on?
Now that I've seen and experienced the Remus, there isn't a doubt in my mind about wanting to go back to the OEM exhaust. The Remus sounds and feels better, while in many cases seems just as loud as OEM. The Remus doesn't scream aftermarket either. Its got a fat tip that's bigger than OEM, has a good looking Remus engraving, and the sound is definitely throatier.
INSTALLATION BEGINS HERE:
(REMOVE SPARE TIRE)
Start off by removing your spare tire, then using 2 jacks, get your car on jack stands. We used Rhino Ramps on the rear. While it's not 100% necessary to remove the spare, it makes the job easier!
Locate some boxes of different sizes. Stacking empty shoe boxes works well, as are old computer hardware boxes. You will use these to support the exhaust as it's removed. On a stock Cooper that isn't lowered, you will want a stack around 15 or 16 inches tall. (You will want 2 sets, one placed on the cat converter that's left hanging, and one on the resonator part of the exhaust you are removing. This will become apparent once you're under the car and find that once the bolts are removed, you will need a means of support for both loose ends!)
(LIFT CAR BY WHATEVER SAFE MEANS)
I used 2 racing jacks placed just in front and inside of the OEM jack points. If you get on the ground, you can see this flat area. Make sure you angle the jack as close to the tire as possible, because you will then slip in a jack stand in the OEM jack point. If you don't do it right, the jack will be in the way, and you'll have to do it again. Once on the jack stands, slightly lower the jack so that the car is resting securely on the stands, and leave both the stands and jack in place. It's best to have 2 people doing this at the same time (1 on each side).
We used Rhino Ramps for the rear because that flat spot doesn't exist on the rear and so I couldn't find a way to lift the car safely.
Having a creeper can be helpful, but in this case, we didn't want to lift the car too high, just so we would have room to use the creeper. The Jack Stands were set with 3 exposed notches with the 4th notch locking it in place. We could have gone higher, but I wanted to match the height of the Rhino Ramps. So instead we just laid down some unfolded cardboard boxes and slide around on them! Also make sure you have sockets at hand!
(REMOVE EXISTING EXHAUST)
To remove the exhaust, you need to support the exhaust at the front of it and the rear of it like this. The front support is actually for the part of the exhaust that isn't removed, but you don't want it hanging. Height is around 15 inches tall. For the rear, you can either use a box or if you've got extra jack stands and a piece of wood will work too!
Just work from front to back. First you will remove the 2 exhaust flange bolts. These are really tight. Make sure exhaust is COLD!! So again, make sure the car is fully supported because you will need to apply a lot of force to remove these bolts, and you don't want the car falling on you!! Once you've undone these two bolt, slide another 15" tall box to support the exhaust, or just be sure to have someone hold it before you remove the bolt and slide out the exhaust.
You will need 15mm sockets for this.
After you've removed those flange bolts, move towards the rear of the car. You can remove the exhaust support tray next. You will need 10mm sockets.
Remove the rear exhaust support strap. You will need 10mm sockets. Once you've done this, the entire exhaust should drop out, and will hopefully be resting on the support boxes you laid out!
Wondering what the stock rear hangers look like? At this point, you can opt to remove the hanger strap or you can remove the red rubber mounts. This is how we did it. It's a really tight fit to remove them, but it's doable. Once you remove the rubber mounts, you can saw the hanger strap off since you will be discarding this and keeping only the red rubber mounts. In case you accidentally destroy them, it'll cost you $50 from the local dealer to replace them, because they come in a kit that includes the parts you don't need!!
A small vise and a hacksaw work great to free those rubber mounts without damaging them! By cutting the nub off you can slip the mount off and you won't be cursing about how difficult it is to remove! Don't bother trying to pry them out with a screwdriver either. The rubber is very fragile and will tear (don't ask me how I know this!)
(MEASURING/CUTTING EXISTING OEM EXHAUST)
Measure from the middle of the forward rubber mounts to the exhaust end and allow between 24 to 25 inches. You can use a hacksaw or an exhaust pipe cutter. We tried a $24 exhaust cutter from Pep Boys and ran into some problems with getting a straight cut, so we resorted to the good old standby, the hacksaw and it worked perfectly. After a few minutes of cutting it was separated and we used a file or 60 grit sandpaper to smooth/deburr the cut end (60 grit was used because that's what was on hand. I would have used a file if I had one!)
(PREPARING REMUS EXHAUST)
The end of your Remus should look like this.
Just loosen and discard this portion since it won't be used.
The end of the Remus should look like this now.
Test fit the Remus over the OEM Exhaust
(FINISHING UP AND INSTALLING REMUS EXHAUST)
Remus Looks Very Nice!!!
Support the Remus exhaust with a box or jack stands with a cross bar. I added a 2x4 since the box wasn't tall enough.
Reinstall the new assembly (leaving the above clamp loose so that you can make final positioning adjustments while under the car). Start with the front exhaust flange. You might apply some Anti Seize compound to the exhaust flange bolts to make them easier to remove in the future. You can buy this from Pep Boys or Autozone for around $3 to $5.
Tighten up all remaining bolts!!! Enjoy your new Remus Exhaust!!
Side by Side comparison!
SUPPORTING MATERIALS
LISTEN TO HOW IT SOUNDS (MP3)
I tried to maintain the same mic angle for each clip. The Remus sounds lower and bit more "throaty". No audio processing has been performed. Sound file opens in new window. Disable Pop Up Blocker if needed.
Remus Idle (OEM First then Remus) (105kb)
Remus Vrooom Vrooom (OEM First then Remus) (267kb)
VIEW RANDY WEBB TUTORIAL (this is a handy tutorial but it's not for the absolute beginner as it assumes a certain level of knowledge and not all the pictures show the true sequence of steps which can be confusing)
Magnaflow Installation PDF
View Remus thread on NorthAmericanMotoring.com
My Front Brake Pad Replacement article (good details on jack placement)
Remus Website
Last edited by OctaneGuy; 05-01-2005 at 04:40 PM.
#2
04-30-2005, 01:29 PM
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Wow! Serious detail and great pix to boot! I personally appreciate the time you put into that post. Just awaiting receipt of the box at this point. I kind of agree that it is probably better to just drop the old system and do it right than to piecemeal it in situ. I'll keep you all posted.
#4
04-30-2005, 01:53 PM
Hahahah Goaljnky,
We're absolutely thrilled with the new exhausts! Phubear2 swears his is getting louder everyday. There are 2 things that have changed for me.
I drive with my windows down and radio off so I can hear the exhaust, and I no longer have to floor the pedal all the time to hear the intake growl, so my fuel economy is up a bit!
We're absolutely thrilled with the new exhausts! Phubear2 swears his is getting louder everyday. There are 2 things that have changed for me.
I drive with my windows down and radio off so I can hear the exhaust, and I no longer have to floor the pedal all the time to hear the intake growl, so my fuel economy is up a bit!
Originally Posted by goaljnky
Good job. I knew you two woldn't be able to hold out for long. 
I knew you two woldn't be able to hold out for long.
#5
05-01-2005, 12:15 AM
Originally Posted by OctaneGuy
Hahahah Goaljnky,
We're absolutely thrilled with the new exhausts! Phubear2 swears his is getting louder everyday. There are 2 things that have changed for me.
I drive with my windows down and radio off so I can hear the exhaust, and I no longer have to floor the pedal all the time to hear the intake growl, so my fuel economy is up a bit!
We're absolutely thrilled with the new exhausts! Phubear2 swears his is getting louder everyday. There are 2 things that have changed for me.
I drive with my windows down and radio off so I can hear the exhaust, and I no longer have to floor the pedal all the time to hear the intake growl, so my fuel economy is up a bit!
#6
05-01-2005, 12:46 AM
#7
05-01-2005, 01:12 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2003
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octaneguy, your instructions are so clear and awesome that you make me (a girl) think I can actually do this myself. Lord knows that I've got the shoe boxes to assist with holding the exhaust up in place! my Remus landed in Honolulu on thursday, and I'll be picking it up from UPS on Tuesday. I'll HOPEFULLY be doing the install with my brother next week Saturday...I'm sure you're instructions will help out a lot!
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#8
05-01-2005, 10:18 AM
Hey there is no difference between a girl and a guy when it comes to doing an exhaust. We're all left thumbs!! Atleast until I did this writeup.
I'm glad you found the writeup useful. The concept it so simple, but there are so many unknowns when you don't know what you are doing.
You remove the existing exhaust assembly by removing a bunch of bolts. Cut off the back end of it (around half way). Slip on the Remus, clamp it, and put it back. All parts are included, you just supply the tools.
The tough part is getting it removed cause the bolts on the exhaust flange are stuck very tight and the rear hanger nuts/bolts are hard to access. We had to use a small ratchet and short socket and actually remove the socket, stick the wrench in there, then put the socket back on, to access it. Pliars are also useful here as are small hands!
Richard
octaneguy, your instructions are so clear and awesome that you make me (a girl) think I can actually do this myself. Lord knows that I've got the shoe boxes to assist with holding the exhaust up in place!
my Remus landed in Honolulu on thursday, and I'll be picking it up from UPS on Tuesday. I'll HOPEFULLY be doing the install with my brother next week Saturday...I'm sure you're instructions will help out a lot!
We're all left thumbs!! Atleast until I did this writeup. I'm glad you found the writeup useful. The concept it so simple, but there are so many unknowns when you don't know what you are doing.
You remove the existing exhaust assembly by removing a bunch of bolts. Cut off the back end of it (around half way). Slip on the Remus, clamp it, and put it back. All parts are included, you just supply the tools.
The tough part is getting it removed cause the bolts on the exhaust flange are stuck very tight and the rear hanger nuts/bolts are hard to access. We had to use a small ratchet and short socket and actually remove the socket, stick the wrench in there, then put the socket back on, to access it. Pliars are also useful here as are small hands!
Richard
Originally Posted by keikilee
octaneguy, your instructions are so clear and awesome that you make me (a girl) think I can actually do this myself. Lord knows that I've got the shoe boxes to assist with holding the exhaust up in place! my Remus landed in Honolulu on thursday, and I'll be picking it up from UPS on Tuesday. I'll HOPEFULLY be doing the install with my brother next week Saturday...I'm sure you're instructions will help out a lot!
#9
05-02-2005, 06:12 AM
#10
05-02-2005, 07:56 AM
Remus Installed
Thanks to OctaneGuy for the instructions. I installed my Remus yesterday. There are a couple of things I probably would have messed up if I didn't study his write-up first.
The Remus sounds great! It's just a little bit louder than stock, but with a deeper tone. No drone on the highway, either.
I'm very happy with it.
The Remus sounds great! It's just a little bit louder than stock, but with a deeper tone. No drone on the highway, either.
I'm very happy with it.
#11
05-02-2005, 08:27 AM
Originally Posted by kenchan
btw, do you really have to hack the hooks to remover the hangers like
that? I just used WD40 and muscle it off on my MCS... (or are the
cooper hangers REALLY tight?!)
#12
05-02-2005, 08:37 AM
Thanks!!
It was really tough to do anything but cut the hanger off. You won't ever use it again anyways, and the risk of damaging them is high--cost of replacement is ridiculous!
If you break your rubber hanger mounts, it'll cost your $50 to replace them. I tried forcing them off, and damaged them. If it slips off, by all means, do it, but in our case, cutting it went really fast, and wish I had cut mine in the first place! (we did that on the 2nd install)
SCOTTEAST
Congrats on the new exhaust!!! I'm glad the article was of help!!!
Yes I love the exhaust!!!!!
Richard
It was really tough to do anything but cut the hanger off. You won't ever use it again anyways, and the risk of damaging them is high--cost of replacement is ridiculous!
If you break your rubber hanger mounts, it'll cost your $50 to replace them. I tried forcing them off, and damaged them. If it slips off, by all means, do it, but in our case, cutting it went really fast, and wish I had cut mine in the first place! (we did that on the 2nd install)
SCOTTEAST
Congrats on the new exhaust!!! I'm glad the article was of help!!!
Yes I love the exhaust!!!!!
Richard
Originally Posted by kenchan
Wow, nice write up!
btw, do you really have to hack the hooks to remover the hangers like
that? I just used WD40 and muscle it off on my MCS... (or are the
cooper hangers REALLY tight?!)
daianmm!!!! that exhaust sounds GREAT!!!!!!
btw, do you really have to hack the hooks to remover the hangers like
that? I just used WD40 and muscle it off on my MCS... (or are the
cooper hangers REALLY tight?!)
daianmm!!!! that exhaust sounds GREAT!!!!!!
#13
05-02-2005, 08:40 AM
Centering Problem??
Is anyone experiencing a centering problem of their exhaust? I've found that because the metal hanger strap is removed and the Remus is suspended only by the rubber mounts that my exhaust tends to shift in the rear bumper cutout. It shifts to left most edge of the cutout.
I thought it may have been due to my torn rubber mounts, but our 2nd Cooper that has perfect mounts, is also shifting. Just wondering if anyone's noticed that.
Richard
I thought it may have been due to my torn rubber mounts, but our 2nd Cooper that has perfect mounts, is also shifting. Just wondering if anyone's noticed that.
Richard
#14
05-02-2005, 02:22 PM
Mine has not moved. It's right in the center of the cut out in the bumper. BUT, I've only driven about 50 miles since I installed the exhaust.
I'm not sure why yours would be shifting to the left. You might want to try loosening the clamp holding the Remus to the stock exhaust and see if you could wiggle the Remus over to the right a little and then tighten the clamp back up.
Good luck!
I'm not sure why yours would be shifting to the left.
You might want to try loosening the clamp holding the Remus to the stock exhaust and see if you could wiggle the Remus over to the right a little and then tighten the clamp back up. Good luck!
#15
05-02-2005, 02:45 PM
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#16
05-02-2005, 03:20 PM
#17
05-02-2005, 07:00 PM
I see! Guess if you're never going to use the metal hooks again,
hack it off!!!
btw, my Milltek moves around a little bit on my MCS. some movement
is normal. if it's banging very abruptly going over bumps, etc you should
be worried, but some movement should be fine. but better to check
just to be sure. :smile:
hack it off!!!
btw, my Milltek moves around a little bit on my MCS. some movement
is normal. if it's banging very abruptly going over bumps, etc you should
be worried, but some movement should be fine. but better to check
just to be sure. :smile:
Originally Posted by OctaneGuy
Thanks!!
It was really tough to do anything but cut the hanger off. You won't ever use it again anyways, and the risk of damaging them is high--cost of replacement is ridiculous!
If you break your rubber hanger mounts, it'll cost your $50 to replace them. I tried forcing them off, and damaged them. If it slips off, by all means, do it, but in our case, cutting it went really fast, and wish I had cut mine in the first place! (we did that on the 2nd install)
SCOTTEAST
Congrats on the new exhaust!!! I'm glad the article was of help!!!
Yes I love the exhaust!!!!!
Richard
It was really tough to do anything but cut the hanger off. You won't ever use it again anyways, and the risk of damaging them is high--cost of replacement is ridiculous!
If you break your rubber hanger mounts, it'll cost your $50 to replace them. I tried forcing them off, and damaged them. If it slips off, by all means, do it, but in our case, cutting it went really fast, and wish I had cut mine in the first place! (we did that on the 2nd install)
SCOTTEAST
Congrats on the new exhaust!!! I'm glad the article was of help!!!
Yes I love the exhaust!!!!!
Richard
#18
05-02-2005, 07:04 PM
Movement is slight--I mean, it shifts about half inch or so to the left and stays there. It never actually touches the body/bumper molding. I can physically grab the exhaust, and push it back to be centered. It seems there is quite a bit of side to side play in the rubber hanger mounts themselves. Seems a spacer sitting on the Remus hanger might do the trick to keep it centered.
re: metal hooks
Well they are replaceable from the dealer, but I can't ever see myself going back to OEM. The Remus sounds sooooo cool. Best $200 I've spent in a long time!!!
Richard
re: metal hooks
Well they are replaceable from the dealer, but I can't ever see myself going back to OEM. The Remus sounds sooooo cool. Best $200 I've spent in a long time!!!
Richard
Originally Posted by kenchan
I see! Guess if you're never going to use the metal hooks again,
hack it off!!!
btw, my Milltek moves around a little bit on my MCS. some movement
is normal. if it's banging very abruptly going over bumps, etc you should
be worried, but some movement should be fine. but better to check
just to be sure. :smile:
hack it off!!!
btw, my Milltek moves around a little bit on my MCS. some movement
is normal. if it's banging very abruptly going over bumps, etc you should
be worried, but some movement should be fine. but better to check
just to be sure. :smile:
#19
05-03-2005, 09:31 AM
Originally Posted by OctaneGuy
The Remus sounds sooooo cool. Best $200 I've spent in a long time!!!
I love my Remus. I've gotten another benefit, too. Before the Remus, my car would idle a little bit rough when it was still cold, and now that problem has gone away. Could be a coincidence, but I'm thinking the reduced exhaust restriction has helped smooth out the idle.
#20
05-03-2005, 10:07 AM
It ain't snake oil, but the Remus is miraculous!!!
Just kidding, but seriously, it has improved a lot of things. I get the feeling my Intake now has a matching partner on the other end which allows for a better breathing system. I've always loved driving in 3rd and 4th gear on the freeway---cruising at 4500-5000 rpm cause when I stepped on the gas, it was Turbo acceleration. With the Remus, there just seems to be a bit more oomph at all rpms. At one place on my commute, I drive up a hill from 1 stop sign to the next. No time to shift, so I just gun it in 1st gear. I hit 6000 rpm as I reach the next sign (in 1st gear). Before, the power seemed to drop around 5,000 rpm, but now it seems to want to keep pulling. Funny, I don't think I would have ever discovered this joy if Remus hadn't offered such a fantastic deal.
Richard
Just kidding, but seriously, it has improved a lot of things. I get the feeling my Intake now has a matching partner on the other end which allows for a better breathing system. I've always loved driving in 3rd and 4th gear on the freeway---cruising at 4500-5000 rpm cause when I stepped on the gas, it was Turbo acceleration. With the Remus, there just seems to be a bit more oomph at all rpms. At one place on my commute, I drive up a hill from 1 stop sign to the next. No time to shift, so I just gun it in 1st gear. I hit 6000 rpm as I reach the next sign (in 1st gear). Before, the power seemed to drop around 5,000 rpm, but now it seems to want to keep pulling. Funny, I don't think I would have ever discovered this joy if Remus hadn't offered such a fantastic deal.
Richard
Originally Posted by scotteast
Same here. I love my Remus.
I've gotten another benefit, too. Before the Remus, my car would idle a little bit rough when it was still cold, and now that problem has gone away. Could be a coincidence, but I'm thinking the reduced exhaust restriction has helped smooth out the idle.
I love my Remus. I've gotten another benefit, too. Before the Remus, my car would idle a little bit rough when it was still cold, and now that problem has gone away. Could be a coincidence, but I'm thinking the reduced exhaust restriction has helped smooth out the idle.
#22
05-03-2005, 10:26 AM
A cheapie Moss MINI Intake, now known as Cobalt. I bought it from a NAMer for like $60 or $70 or something awhile back. It's not a true CAI cause there isn't any routing of air, but it sounds incredible. Even before the Remus, the engine roared.
Funny, I always attracted the attention of cops everytime I passed them.
Think they were expecting some huge car. Maybe that's why the cop on my last ticket asked if I had Nitrous.
Funny, I always attracted the attention of cops everytime I passed them.
Think they were expecting some huge car. Maybe that's why the cop on my last ticket asked if I had Nitrous.
Originally Posted by goaljnky
Richard,
What do you have for an intake?
What do you have for an intake?
#23
05-03-2005, 10:39 AM
Originally Posted by OctaneGuy
A cheapie Moss MINI Intake, now known as Cobalt. I bought it from a NAMer for like $60 or $70 or something awhile back. It's not a true CAI cause there isn't any routing of air, but it sounds incredible. Even before the Remus, the engine roared.
Funny, I always attracted the attention of cops everytime I passed them. Think they were expecting some huge car. Maybe that's why the cop on my last ticket asked if I had Nitrous.
Funny, I always attracted the attention of cops everytime I passed them.
Think they were expecting some huge car. Maybe that's why the cop on my last ticket asked if I had Nitrous. I beleive that might be my next mod, if it fits the '05, that is.
#24
05-03-2005, 10:44 AM
Check with Moss MINI. It's my understanding that the '05 Airboxes have been designed differently now--requiring different drop in air filters--not sure if it affects an intake like mine though. I'll be happy to take a look at our next c3 meeting to see if it's changed much. IMO, an intake is a great, highly underrated, easy/cost effective mod that dramatically affects sound quality, and as I understand it, especially so on the Coopers (louder).
Originally Posted by goaljnky
Cool! I beleive that might be my next mod, if it fits the '05, that is.
I beleive that might be my next mod, if it fits the '05, that is.
#25
05-03-2005, 11:54 AM
Originally Posted by OctaneGuy
Check with Moss MINI. It's my understanding that the '05 Airboxes have been designed differently now--requiring different drop in air filters--not sure if it affects an intake like mine though. I'll be happy to take a look at our next c3 meeting to see if it's changed much. IMO, an intake is a great, highly underrated, easy/cost effective mod that dramatically affects sound quality, and as I understand it, especially so on the Coopers (louder).
