New Owner, What Mods to begin with?
New Owner, What Mods to begin with?
Hi, I convinced my wife to buy a 2007 Justa AT cos I always wanted one but could not afford one. Now I have been driving it every chance I got. Finding excuses to drive to do chores too.
I feel the throttle lag every one is talking about and have been reading all the threads about mods to help. I dont mind chipping in some dollars to make things happen. I can think of the following to keep it under 400. What do other Justa owners think will work best? Are there other options I missed?
1. NM Torque Converter + DIY Cone Filter ($60+$75)
2. NM Torque Converter + DDM Intake ($60+$250)
3. NM Torque Converter + Sprint Booster ($60+$300)
4. Sprint Booster + DIY Cone Filter ($300+$75)
I feel the throttle lag every one is talking about and have been reading all the threads about mods to help. I dont mind chipping in some dollars to make things happen. I can think of the following to keep it under 400. What do other Justa owners think will work best? Are there other options I missed?
1. NM Torque Converter + DIY Cone Filter ($60+$75)
2. NM Torque Converter + DDM Intake ($60+$250)
3. NM Torque Converter + Sprint Booster ($60+$300)
4. Sprint Booster + DIY Cone Filter ($300+$75)
I would start with a quality drop-in filter and see how you like the performance in something like that. It will give a small but noticeable gain in response, be more user friendly over the life of the car, help the environment, and cost about $40 at a local parts shop. (K&N) An easy and inexpensive first mod, then see where to go from there. Enjoy and welcome to the club!
You got it right with doing the torque arm bushing first.
Then out of all those options I say you get the most out of the DDM intake. We dyno'd it with an 8ft lb torque gain at the wheels, and noticed good throttle improvement.
Then out of all those options I say you get the most out of the DDM intake. We dyno'd it with an 8ft lb torque gain at the wheels, and noticed good throttle improvement.
You got it right with doing the torque arm bushing first.
Then out of all those options I say you get the most out of the DDM intake. We dyno'd it with an 8ft lb torque gain at the wheels, and noticed good throttle improvement.
Then out of all those options I say you get the most out of the DDM intake. We dyno'd it with an 8ft lb torque gain at the wheels, and noticed good throttle improvement.
That intake looks pretty nice! How are the dealers and warranty's when you put a CAI in? Any grief?
I think I am inclined towards the NM Torque Arm Bushing and the Sprint Booster at this point. I have one more year to go on my Warranty and will think of the DDM Intake after that. I would love to put in a drop in K&N Filter till then like rjtrout suggests but dont want to drop some cash for something that will get used very little.
Hey Mr. Way, will the Sprint Booster offered by you carry the 30 Day Trial Period?
Hey Mr. Way, will the Sprint Booster offered by you carry the 30 Day Trial Period?
Hi Ris:
We have similar cars -- R56 Justa, automatics.
I've found two things that give me the biggest bang. 1.) the NM torque arm insert, and, 2.)205X50X16 Avid Envigors.
The Avids give just a tad lower final gearing becaue of their slightly smaller diameter and -- when compared to the run-flats -- the tires themselves are significantly lighter (21 lbs vs a MEASURED 27 lbs for the Bstone run-flats).
Anything you can do to reduce unsprung or rotating weight will return huge benefits.
Next for me will be Way's 19mm hollow rear sway bar. I tried the 22mm one and its too much for my tastes.
I'm really on the fence about the DDM intake. While Way says there is a significant improvement in measured torque -- and I trust him implicitly -- I just don't really like the idea of changing things around up there to that extent.
I've got some real worries about the "wet" air filters. I've seen way to much stuff accumulate on the surfaces of the airflow meter and oxygen sensors. I'm not convinced that is a good idea. I did, however, block the muffler holes on the big intake muffler. No benefit in performance, but it sure sounds better ( I used the shiny metal tape that they used to seal HVAC ductwork -- its got an adhesive that sticks like crazy).
Good luck, and keep us all informed, especially if you go with the DDM thing. I'd like someone to tell me that it works so that I can get off the fence.
We have similar cars -- R56 Justa, automatics.
I've found two things that give me the biggest bang. 1.) the NM torque arm insert, and, 2.)205X50X16 Avid Envigors.
The Avids give just a tad lower final gearing becaue of their slightly smaller diameter and -- when compared to the run-flats -- the tires themselves are significantly lighter (21 lbs vs a MEASURED 27 lbs for the Bstone run-flats).
Anything you can do to reduce unsprung or rotating weight will return huge benefits.
Next for me will be Way's 19mm hollow rear sway bar. I tried the 22mm one and its too much for my tastes.
I'm really on the fence about the DDM intake. While Way says there is a significant improvement in measured torque -- and I trust him implicitly -- I just don't really like the idea of changing things around up there to that extent.
I've got some real worries about the "wet" air filters. I've seen way to much stuff accumulate on the surfaces of the airflow meter and oxygen sensors. I'm not convinced that is a good idea. I did, however, block the muffler holes on the big intake muffler. No benefit in performance, but it sure sounds better ( I used the shiny metal tape that they used to seal HVAC ductwork -- its got an adhesive that sticks like crazy).
Good luck, and keep us all informed, especially if you go with the DDM thing. I'd like someone to tell me that it works so that I can get off the fence.
Thanks for your feedback Herleman. I will get the NM Torque Arm Insert first. I will keep in mind about the Avid Envigor Tires you suggested when mine needs replacement.
I was thinking of going to 17" wheels when I have to change tires but looks like my stock 15" Alloy Rotator Spoke wheels are 15.7 lbs which is fairly light. Being a cyclist I understand the power difference in rotational weight so I will try and get the lightest Wheel+Tire setup I can afford when the time comes.
I picked up a solid 19mm rear sway bar kit made by Eibach for $75 from another NAM Forum Member locally. Thanks Chad. I was thinking of doing that later on but could not pass up on that offer. The DDM Intake will have to wait for a while. Hopefully the price on that will come down.
I was thinking of going to 17" wheels when I have to change tires but looks like my stock 15" Alloy Rotator Spoke wheels are 15.7 lbs which is fairly light. Being a cyclist I understand the power difference in rotational weight so I will try and get the lightest Wheel+Tire setup I can afford when the time comes.
I picked up a solid 19mm rear sway bar kit made by Eibach for $75 from another NAM Forum Member locally. Thanks Chad. I was thinking of doing that later on but could not pass up on that offer. The DDM Intake will have to wait for a while. Hopefully the price on that will come down.
Trending Topics
Also New Owner
I am also a new owner. My list of mods once my break-in is over include:
Alta Foam Filter
Alta Access Port
Torque Arm Insert
Boost Tube
Air Charge Pipe, and
Blow Off Valve
I'll save the tires until I need to change the RFs.
Is there anything else I should consider? Also, I don't want to mess too much with the 4yr warranty.
Alta Foam Filter
Alta Access Port
Torque Arm Insert
Boost Tube
Air Charge Pipe, and
Blow Off Valve
I'll save the tires until I need to change the RFs.
Is there anything else I should consider? Also, I don't want to mess too much with the 4yr warranty.
You're going to get more opinionated responses than you want. The biggest bang for the buck will be by far the Access Port. The stage 1 tune is great but adding the FMIC and turbo back exhaust will be even greater enabling you to get into the stage 3 tune. Here is wat I have done over the last three years:
-John
- Whalen Shift **** and matching brake handle. One of my favorite mods
- Aluminum Pedals.
- Body color black outs [handles from AC, the res from Vinyl Styles]
- Kuda mount for a Garmin 5000 [hardwirded into the car] Nuvi 5000 has a video input.
- Backup Camera mounted on the valence between the valence and tail pipes. Connected to the Nuvi 5000. also use the NUVI as my MP# player.
- JCW Tune
- Access Port
- Alta FMIC
- Auto on sport button circuit
- One touch sunroof circuit
- Aftermarket wheels at 17 pounds after RF's wore out with Michelin Pilot Plus A/s. I got a second set of the wheels due to scratches from a wreck so I will be buying a second set of sticky summer tires
- Rubber trays for center stack cubby and under handbrake.
- Boot box [dont buy this, waste of money]
- storage saddle bag
- changed out HiFi speakers with 2010 HK speakers in fron. Rear speakers coming in the spring.
- JCW strut tower brace.
- LED side scuttle lights
- LED interior lights
- glove box organizer
-John
Got the NM Torque Inserts from Way Works. Very fast shipping
I plan to install both the rear Sway Bar and the Torque Inserts this weekend. Will let you know what I think. I did some spirited driving this weekend on some swisties around here. Will do the same after the installs and see if I notice a difference.
I plan to install both the rear Sway Bar and the Torque Inserts this weekend. Will let you know what I think. I did some spirited driving this weekend on some swisties around here. Will do the same after the installs and see if I notice a difference.
Did the installs yesterday. Took me about 4 hours to do both the Torque Arm bushings and the Sway Bar.
Torque Bushing impressions - The car vibrated a lot the first time I started which got me worried but it settled down in a minute or so and I felt that the vibrations toned down back to what it was like before which made me happy. What made me happier was the difference it made taking off and getting rid of the little hesitation I felt when it changed gears in sports mode. I've read about this here but if made me feel good to experience it myself.
19mm Sway Bar impressions - The stock bar looked flimsy compared to the 19mm bar. Wonder if the Cooper S comes with a beefier sway bar than the Justa. Unfortunately my Torque Wrench goes upto only 80 foot pounds and I need to Troque the lower strut bolt to 103. Need to go shopping for a Torque Wrench now
The twisties will have to wait :(
Torque Bushing impressions - The car vibrated a lot the first time I started which got me worried but it settled down in a minute or so and I felt that the vibrations toned down back to what it was like before which made me happy. What made me happier was the difference it made taking off and getting rid of the little hesitation I felt when it changed gears in sports mode. I've read about this here but if made me feel good to experience it myself.
19mm Sway Bar impressions - The stock bar looked flimsy compared to the 19mm bar. Wonder if the Cooper S comes with a beefier sway bar than the Justa. Unfortunately my Torque Wrench goes upto only 80 foot pounds and I need to Troque the lower strut bolt to 103. Need to go shopping for a Torque Wrench now
The twisties will have to wait :(
Hi, I convinced my wife to buy a 2007 Justa AT cos I always wanted one but could not afford one. Now I have been driving it every chance I got. Finding excuses to drive to do chores too.
I feel the throttle lag every one is talking about and have been reading all the threads about mods to help. I dont mind chipping in some dollars to make things happen. I can think of the following to keep it under 400. What do other Justa owners think will work best? Are there other options I missed?
1. NM Torque Converter + DIY Cone Filter ($60+$75)
2. NM Torque Converter + DDM Intake ($60+$250)
3. NM Torque Converter + Sprint Booster ($60+$300)
4. Sprint Booster + DIY Cone Filter ($300+$75)
I feel the throttle lag every one is talking about and have been reading all the threads about mods to help. I dont mind chipping in some dollars to make things happen. I can think of the following to keep it under 400. What do other Justa owners think will work best? Are there other options I missed?
1. NM Torque Converter + DIY Cone Filter ($60+$75)
2. NM Torque Converter + DDM Intake ($60+$250)
3. NM Torque Converter + Sprint Booster ($60+$300)
4. Sprint Booster + DIY Cone Filter ($300+$75)
Best mod is driving school.
http://www.evoschool.com/index.php?page=schedule
Next is better tires to fit stock wheels.
Non runflats like the Yokohama Avids that were already mentioned or better.
No number of modifications will make you a better driver than you are already and no one is so good as to not benefit from driving school.
More mods will just mean you get into trouble faster or more frequently.
Hmm... never thought of a driving school Minihune. Reminds me of a Top Gear quote... 'Driving is like Sex. All men think they are very good at it'.
If the price is right I don't mind learning some skills I can put on the road. What do they typically teach you? Driving lines, gear changes, braking points, how to correct a slide? I am a self learner but can see how a driving school might help me push boundaries I would never attempt on my own and build confidence without having a wreck.
If the price is right I don't mind learning some skills I can put on the road. What do they typically teach you? Driving lines, gear changes, braking points, how to correct a slide? I am a self learner but can see how a driving school might help me push boundaries I would never attempt on my own and build confidence without having a wreck.
Hmm... never thought of a driving school Minihune. Reminds me of a Top Gear quote... 'Driving is like Sex. All men think they are very good at it'.
If the price is right I don't mind learning some skills I can put on the road. What do they typically teach you? Driving lines, gear changes, braking points, how to correct a slide? I am a self learner but can see how a driving school might help me push boundaries I would never attempt on my own and build confidence without having a wreck.
If the price is right I don't mind learning some skills I can put on the road. What do they typically teach you? Driving lines, gear changes, braking points, how to correct a slide? I am a self learner but can see how a driving school might help me push boundaries I would never attempt on my own and build confidence without having a wreck.
Or, Leave your ego at home and come to driving school ready to learn and be open to push your comfort boundaries.
See
http://www.evoschool.com/index.php?page=classes
About $250 per class
Quote from Phase 1 class:
Combined with race proven skills, concepts, and techniques this course will improve the performance of all drivers on both road and track.Even experienced driver’s benefit from the Phase 1 course as a refresher for those things they’ve forgotten over the years or perhaps never learned.No matter what type of car you drive the Phase 1 skills will improve your overall driving abilities.
Once mastered you can go on to phase 2, etc.
When they ask you to become an instructor you can stop going to that driving school.
But there is always more to learn from different instructors and all in a controlled and safe environment for you, other drivers/instructors and your cars.
$250 is not bad. Also a good excuse to drive to the Ozark Mountains. Thats the closest location for me. Some fine roads for motoring out there, especially Talimena drive.
http://www.talimenascenicdrive.com/
Thanks for the Info Minihune.
http://www.talimenascenicdrive.com/
Thanks for the Info Minihune.
19mm Sway Bar impressions continued... All I can say is wow! Torqued all the bolts to spec took it on the same road I drove before the change. Did not have to fight the corners like before. If you are a driving enthusiast this upgrade is a must for the Justa Coopers.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dscott90000
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
8
Sep 9, 2015 07:55 AM
OutMotoring
Drivetrain (Cooper S)
5
Sep 8, 2015 06:27 AM









