Phenolic Spacer?
I've never seen one for the cooper. I've always wondered if they actually do anything. I've always thought that the hot air from under the hood was the problem, not the intake manifold heating up from touching the block.
I was wondering the same thing.
Until I thought about it and remembered intake spacers. Super common for 5.0 Mustangs. But to answer the OP's question, I've never seen them. Doesn't mean they're not out there but pretty unlikely. I would think you could have one made using the intake dimensions and manifold gasket as a template.
It's nothing more than hard plastic so any kind of a machine shop or small manufacturing company could whip something together.
The one for the Mustang was designed to solve a problem, whereas the Mini doesn't appear to have the same problem. I still have a hard time believing that there is any benefit. If you're building a real race car and are building a motor from the ground up, well maybe. But to add one just to have one? (not saying the OP is doing that, but the Honda crowd sure does.
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It sounds kind of legitimate actually. You figure, you lengthen how far the air has to travel to get to the head. Kind of like a velocity stack (or venturi). I might have to fab something up to see if it does anything. Worst case scenario it doesn't do anything and I take it out.
See what kind of topics come up when you stick two mechanics in a car for 18 hours? haha
See what kind of topics come up when you stick two mechanics in a car for 18 hours? haha
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It sounds kind of legitimate actually. You figure, you lengthen how far the air has to travel to get to the head. Kind of like a velocity stack (or venturi). I might have to fab something up to see if it does anything. Worst case scenario it doesn't do anything and I take it out.
See what kind of topics come up when you stick two mechanics in a car for 18 hours? haha
See what kind of topics come up when you stick two mechanics in a car for 18 hours? haha
And you will have the only one!
I don't think they meant it as a problem solver so much as moving the manifold away from heat and creating a little more port volume.
pic installed (Al not phenolic):
Do i seem some e-love emerging?
With all this talk of this spacer....I'm gonna feel bad if I don't come up with something. I'll try though. haha

Don't worry you got me thinking went out in the garage grabbed an intake manifold and started thinking.
Yea, I don't have one of those just laying around.
Been gone all weekend, I see this thread got a little longer....I understand the port lengthening, but heat would probably be a wash since the original manifold for a W10 is plastic already. Or maybe a W11 intake was to be used....
My garage looks like that, but you'd need a few more cylinder heads lying around.
My garage looks like that, but you'd need a few more cylinder heads lying around.
Mind getting me a straight on shot of a intake manifold, and some dimensions? I might have to buy the manifold gasket to reference, might be easier. I'm in Canada right now, so not much can happen currently other than work

If you do it with a OEM gasket you should increase the inside Width diameter to the about + 2 mm. Or just cut out were the raised area is on the OEM gasket. This will allow for Minis bad castings.
I went a got a piece of plastic to cut up and play around with to see how it would all work spacing wise. Remember that you will be spacing everything out the thickness you decide on. So make sure all the other parts are still going to fit.
Keep posting about what you come up with and I will do the same.
You would be better off getting a gasket The one in my picture I have already hand ported to 46.8mm W with stock at about 41-42 mm W.(casting sucks) The intake head I am porting to 48mm W. Stock casting varies between 42 and 42.9 mm W(also casting sucks) 
If you do it with a OEM gasket you should increase the inside Width diameter to the about + 2 mm. Or just cut out were the raised area is on the OEM gasket. This will allow for Minis bad castings.
I went a got a piece of plastic to cut up and play around with to see how it would all work spacing wise. Remember that you will be spacing everything out the thickness you decide on. So make sure all the other parts are still going to fit.
Keep posting about what you come up with and I will do the same.

If you do it with a OEM gasket you should increase the inside Width diameter to the about + 2 mm. Or just cut out were the raised area is on the OEM gasket. This will allow for Minis bad castings.
I went a got a piece of plastic to cut up and play around with to see how it would all work spacing wise. Remember that you will be spacing everything out the thickness you decide on. So make sure all the other parts are still going to fit.
Keep posting about what you come up with and I will do the same.
I can't really work on it right now, it'll be a week or two before I get a break from work (on the road alot...damn race teams :P). But when I get home I'll do what I can, and def. going to post before, after, during...temps...all that noise.
I really think that any sort of a spacer that you're considering is an exercise in futility.
First off, as has already been mentioned, the Cooper intake manifold is made of plastic to begin with, so minimizing heat transfer from the engine is a moot point. There would be more benefit from creating some sort of heat shield in the air gap between the manifold and the engine block (if there is any gap to speak of).
The other proposed area for gain, greater "port" volume and longer length for some sort of velocity stack type effect is a wash without significant length changes and plenty of testing. This is one of those spots where we'd be hard pressed to improve on BMW's effort. For a quick and dirty on how the intake runner length effects performance see this article: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question517.htm I'm with them right up until the last paragraph when they start talking about dual intake runners. I've never hears of dual diameter intake runners, just dual length (Acura Integra GSR, Ford Taurus SHO). We developed a dual length intake on an FSAE racecar and saw big benefits. Long runners gave a big torque boost at low/mid RPM, then a solenoid switched to a short runner at about 7500RPM to make more power up to the 12500RPM redline (600cc motorcycle engine).
-Will
First off, as has already been mentioned, the Cooper intake manifold is made of plastic to begin with, so minimizing heat transfer from the engine is a moot point. There would be more benefit from creating some sort of heat shield in the air gap between the manifold and the engine block (if there is any gap to speak of).
The other proposed area for gain, greater "port" volume and longer length for some sort of velocity stack type effect is a wash without significant length changes and plenty of testing. This is one of those spots where we'd be hard pressed to improve on BMW's effort. For a quick and dirty on how the intake runner length effects performance see this article: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question517.htm I'm with them right up until the last paragraph when they start talking about dual intake runners. I've never hears of dual diameter intake runners, just dual length (Acura Integra GSR, Ford Taurus SHO). We developed a dual length intake on an FSAE racecar and saw big benefits. Long runners gave a big torque boost at low/mid RPM, then a solenoid switched to a short runner at about 7500RPM to make more power up to the 12500RPM redline (600cc motorcycle engine).
-Will


