Can anyone do it? what did you do? You can feel the power leave my car right about the second the needle hits 6000, i dont know if it is injectors too small, ecu not tuned to do that, or vavle float (i have heard intakes loose control at 6000). I figure i got about 1400 more factory rpm in there, but have very little power, and i want to rectify it, but starting the change things along this nature start to add up quick, right now i am will to do either the injectors, or the valve springs (and valves probably, but intakes only). Has anyone done either of these, and found they could use their top end better? Thanks alot for you help. (i posted a question about injector sizing as well, that way i can do the math to find out how high they will feed too, that might answer part of the question).

thanks for any help

Beecher

 

Its airflow more than anything. You really need to push a lot more air to need bigger injectors. And, with an OHC style motor, valve float is not as much of an issue due to less ROT mass. If you really want it to scream, add a CAI, full exhaust and cam it. The cam will really bring it alive above 5k.

 

yeah, a cam would really be nice, but i dont like any of the available grinds, and i havnt designed my own yet (long story). But there has go to be a reason why the cooper feels like it hit a wall at 6k. A header is in the works, for this winter (been saying that for years, but this is the year). I know that vavle float shouldnt be a problem, but i hear it is, and oddly enough two sources have both independently said 6k was where it starts to happen.

Thanks for the help, i will post what i find if no answers show up, and i have to resort to trial and error (but it becomes so darn expensive)!

Beecher

 

my MC doesn't get stuck at 6k, infact thats where things come alive haha.
all i;ve done is megan header, magnaflow exhaust, and intake

 

Our Cooper used to flatten out between 5800 and the bumped 6900 rpm redline - that was, until we ported and polished the head and installed the Schrick cam... Now, it pulls all the way to the rev limiter.

You gotta have more air in and get more air out - the most efficient, most effective way (by far) is with a good head...

 

My 03 pulls all the way to bounce, and with the new Way/DDM intake it just starts pulling sooner

Mark

 

As scobib said

With the RMW head, long tube header and 380's no problems pulling all the way to the 8k cutout. Screams like a Banshee at those RPM's too.

 

yeah, but you got an s gnatster, lol.

thanks for the input guys, maybe i will work from the outside in. I tend to try so start with the core bits, and do the bolts on later (makes it easier to justify, lol, "well, i spent $XXXX on this piece, so i might as well spend the $XXX to make everything operate at their peak...") you know how it goes, haha. I just kind of figured the loss of power at 6000 was more of an internal thing rather than an external thing. Thanks for the help

Beecher

 

I have an '02 CVT, and the computer determines the shift point and it is 6000rpm. Once you look at the cylinder head ports, you'll see why they programmed it to shift so early- it can't get enough air to warrant a higher rpm, neither can it push out exhaust well enough with the tiny ports. It's like the TX Werks guy said. I have ported my head and it would happily give me more power if I had the full-throttle shift point raised over the original 6k. First chance I get, I will get MTH tuning to do this. The point is that it's not floating those tiny valves and the stock injectors will deliver more fuel than you can get air(by proportion) into and out of your stock engine. If you have effective mods which give you more air delivery then your only problem is that you need a chip that will raise the factory redline to one that your improved airflow engine will accomodate, so you can realize more horsepower. -Jeffy.

 

Whoops, didn't read the forum title. Sorry

 

Second that. It's the MC fun zone.

 

uhh, well, i guess i misdiagnosed the problem. I figured it was something more terminal than intake and header. I guess i have some work cut out for me this winter!

No prob Gnat, we appreciate your input anyway!

Thanks everyone for the help

Beecher

oh oh, i just noticed eastmtmini, you have the SK, did you notice a big improvement over 6k when you added it, i would have had mine on already if i didnt bend my front suspension all up, and had to spend my SK budget! I would apprecuiate any info you could give me on that

thanks

Beecher

 

Sorry, I can't say how much difference the SK makes. I had it installed on my Cooper before I picked it up at the dealer. Even the MINI I test drove had the SK installed. Check out the SK threads on NAM and you can find many testimonials on the performance improvements it makes. Had the MINI out today and took it past 6k in 3rd gear without any hesitation. It did loose some steam when I shifted into 4th. If everything is working as it should, a new intake, exhaust, and remap might get you where you want to be. If that doesn't do it, then the port and polish or upgraded head and cam is probably what you need. Beyond that, ???

 

thanks eastmtmini

for what its worth, i pulled my airfilter out today, and the mototr didnt seem to loose as much (key words "as much") steam at 6k as with the filter on. So an intake would appear to help, i will have to build one soon i guess.

thanks everyone

Beecher

 

oh, and yeah, i put the filter back in, before i get an earfull about no filter (although i do run one of my other cars with out filters, the mini is not going to be one of them, at least i dont think....)

Beecher