I have an 05' MC and its in need of a brake job. I want to change to a high boiling temp fluid but does anyone know how much is required for the whole system? I have bought 1 quart and I'm waiting on rotors and the service manual to arrive and just want to have enough to do the job before I start.
Thanks

 

I bought 3 bottles of Motul RBF600. I only used 1 1/2 but its good to have more. A full flush sucks.....

 

2 Quarts should be enough,

You can also bleed the clutch, since the clutch and brakes share the same fluid/ reservoir

 

Keep in mind that to do this, you need to compress the slave cylinder and keep it compressed while flushing... But, it's a good idea to do this at the same time you're bleeding the brakes, yup!

 

1 liter will be good enough for a bleed but for a complete flush 2 will be more thorough; here is a how-to for an MCS the only difference being the location of the clutch slave. http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/foru...read.php?t=476
I don’t know a good point for wedging a board for depressing the slave arm on the Cooper; txwerks, do you have a tip here?

 

You shouldn't need to compress the clutch slave cylinder unless you bleed it dry. Which I DO NOT recommend. I still have some play in my brakes/clutch because of it.

 

I used about a quart and 1/2. I also used a brake bleeding pump that really made the job alot simpler. One person job. I also changed out the brake lines for Stainless Steel ones.

 

oops

 

Compressing the clutch slave plunger evacuates all internal fluid from the chamber which may contain water, impregnated air & bubbles, or other contaminates. Fluid will choose the path of least resistance, which in most cases is the shortest distance, so when performing a slave bleed, the fluid will travel through the hydraulic line and out the bleeder nipple bypassing the plunger chamber.

UKSUV, if either, gravity bleed, pressure bleed, leg pump bleed, or combination of these methods with the clutch slave arm compressed does not restore your pedal feel, you have a mechanical issue. Try my how-to completely, allow the vehicle to rest for 20 or more minutes, perform a second bleed, rest, then a short gravity bleed at each location. I once had a bubble(s) trapped in the right front caliper and it took a couple of rounds of the leg pump procedure and rapping the piston housing to remove it and after that instance the pressure bleed has maintained consistent pedal feel.

 

I have a liter of Super Blue and a set of braided lines ready to go. I didn't expect to use more than a liter but can get another just to be sure. My question is what is the shelf life of an unopened liter of brake fluid? Any ideas?

Rich

 

What sucks about a full flush? I need to do a full flush and I think I am prepared for it. My brake job consits of new front only power slot cryo rotors, Hawk HP + pads, Stoptech brake lines 4 corners, Motul RBF600 fluid change (and hopefully no sensor change; lights not on yet). Now whats this about clutch fluid flush as well? I just recently had a new generation (OE) clutch installed under warranty and I hope it bleeds the same as the stock. I did not know they share the same res. I absolutely want to flush and bleed in the motul in the clutch slave as well. I bought a Motive power bleeder and some catch bottles so I'm set there. I guess I will buy another 2 pints of fluid so I have 2 quarts on hand for the job.

 

K-huevo
Outstanding thread on your forum there!
Couple of questions.
First; I'm replacing the brake lines so should I do each wheel independently in the order of bleeding? In that order at each wheel I would pull the calipers then pull the pads and remove the rotor, then replace the brake line (with no pressure and resevoir cap in place), clean everything, install the rotor, install caliper to the brake line then install the caliper. Then bleed the new fluid in the brakeline and cylinder?
second; where did you get the dust caps I'm at 48k miles and would like to replace them.
Third; Where did you get the caliper tool? and could I pull off the clutch flush with the power bleeder and a very large set of channel lock pliers? (I can band the handles with straps, would this work)

 

IMHO?

Jack the car up and place it on jack stands at all four corners... Remove the wheels, then proceed to install the new pads and lock everything down. Then, flush the brake fluid. If you want to purchase something to make the job easier, check out Motive Products PowerBleeder, which does simplify things. Else, just station your wife (or friend) in the car and have them pump and hold the brake pedal as you crack the bleed screws, not letting them ease pressure until the bleeder is closed again - ensure you keep checking the fluid level and topping off as necessary. If you use a PowerBleeder, you can go solo and not worry about the pedal effort...

Even though people say that the order doesn't matter on modern ABS cars, I still follow the rule that I learned a long, long time ago - start with the longest run from the reservoir/master cylinder and go to the shortest, which means passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front order. Hasn't ever, ever let me down.

And yes, you DO need to compress the slave to bleed the fluid from the clutch line, else you WILL get air in the line. The Bentley manual recommends this...

As far as a tool to compress the slave cylinder? We made one from a couple pieces of 1" aluminum bar stock (buy 1 foot length), two long SS panhead bolts (5"), and wingnuts to fit the bolts. You cut the bar stock to approximately 4" length, round out one side of one piece of the 4" bar stock to fit the convex head of the slave cylinder using a bit drill bit or a Dremel, and drill clearance holes in the bar stock. Then, assemble the two pieces of bar stock with the bolts, fit it around the slave cylinder and compress away using the wingnuts. Open the bleeder screw and let 'er bleed if you're using a power bleeder, else, actuate the clutch pedal until you see the new fluid coming out...

Personally, I like to alternate between Motul RBF 600 and Ate Blue between flishes. This ensures that we get a complete flush between cycles...

 

GOTCURVES, the parts and tool can be purchased from a MINI parts department, I prefer Classic MINI of Mentor when I have extra time to wait or locally when in a hurry or parts are heavy or large. Your work around would probably be ok, be careful with the slave body and don’t use it for leverage. Think about cutting a fence rung to length and wedging against a point on the block or transmission. Save the brake fluid change until after the lines, pads, and rotors have all been done. When tightening the banjo bolt be sure to position the line so it will not interfere with accessing the caliper guide bolt.

 

Fellas, great write ups and tips. I am about to bleed the brakes myself as well, but just to clarify You would....

1.) Compress the slave (the clutch or brake pedal?)using block of wood or
mini tool, or Macgyver it

2.) Attach pressure bleeder to resovior, pressure should not exceed 14 psi
while checking for any leaks in the attachment.

3.) Put at least two liters of brake fluid in bleeder kit.

4.) Proceed with bleeding the brakes according to distance from Master
Cylinder

5.) Save bleeding the clutch for last or bleed that first??

If anyone could clarify the questions in number 1 and 5, I would appreciate it. Also when turning the rear caliper to compress it, im assumming you would turn clockwise??? Thanks for the help in advance

 

It is clockwise turning the caliper to compress it. If you feel strong and don't have a special tool, a pair of needle nose pliers in the two holes on the caliper will work. Just push hard while turning clockwise.

I don't think it matters in what order you do the clutch. I would do it last just for preference.

I would not recommend for anyone to touch the clutch pedal during the bleeding process. Mini's do not seem to like the old school method of open valve, push pedal, close valve, let up pedal.

I found that the easiest tool other than a power bleeder is a top side oil changer. It is a simple hand vacuum pump with a tank and a hose that goes into the dipstick. Attach a 2 " long piece of rubber hose, where the interior diameter is about 3/8", to the end of the dipstick tube. That will go over the bleeder valves with a tight seal. It's also good to have for oil changes. It took me about 30 seconds to bleed my clutch with this tool.

Like others have said, if you want to do a thorough flush, the slave cylinder must be compressed. I don't see how it would allow air into the system by not doing it, but you can't get fresh fluid into the cylinder without compressing it. It is also easier to hold the slave cylinder at an angle where any air will rise towards the bleeder valve.

As for the compressing tool for the slave, I used a 1/4" home depot wooden paint mixer. Drill 2 holes in it the same distance apart as the holes in the slave. Get 2 4" or 5" bolts with a lot of threads with nuts that will fit into the slave cylinder. Then compress it and use the wood and bolts to hold it compressed. The "tool" only has to be strong enough to resist the spring in the slave cylinder. Just don't press the clutch pedal with the slave compressed. You will either brake the "tool" or blow a seal in the cylinder.

 

Also, remember that high boiling point fluids absorb more water and must be flushed more frequently than lower boiling point fluids.

 

AliceCooper,

Thank you for taking the time to help me out. I now understand the clutch slave process and you most likely saved me hundreds of dollars if I was to do it wrong. Also, should I double up on the paint stirrers just to be sure that they do not break during compression of the slave? And If I have the pressure bleeder hooked up will I just be compressing the slave fully one time, or am I just looking for a change in the fluid? I believe someone wrote that full compression of the slave could be a disaster. Either way thank you for the advice and ROCK ON!! that is if your real name is not Alice and you don't drive a regular cooper hahahaha thanks again

 

Nope, the car's name is Alice...after Alice Cooper.
If you get the thick paint stirrers that are about 2" wide and about a 1/4" thick , then 1 is fine. If it is the thin 1.5" wide ones that are 1/8" thick, then double up. You want to compress the cylinder all the way. What you want to be careful with is the angle of the piston. Try to keep it relatively straight. What could be detrimental is if it gets forced to the side, it may allow some air in. Also don't compress it with a lot of pressure, meaning push it down all the way and tighten the bolts just enough to keep it there, the thing is plastic and I have gone through several...even with being careful. Pushing too hard could break it.

Glad we could help!

 

For those that have used the Motive Products pressure bleeder... 2 questions:

1. How high do I need to pump the pressure up? 10psi?
2. They keep mentioning to torque the bleeders on the calipers back down to proper torque setting. What is the torque setting? Is it even achievable with any degree of accuracy? I am guess it is pretty low for your average lug nut torque wrench.

 

I think I pumped mine up to 10-12 PSI. It really takes very little pressure... would work with less than that. Just flows the fluid through faster than gravity would...

I close the bleeders "snug", not "tight"... would be really easy to over-tighten them... tiny threads... I don't bother with a torque wrench for these (though I do for most other things on the car).

 

My Bentley manual says not to use more than 29psi, as it could damage the fluid reservoir. I can't find a spec. for torque setting of the bleeder valves, so I guess snug it is.

Mark

 

I just broke my own rule and had someone else do this job on the Mini at the four year mark. (I have a tough time with getting a Mini up on four stands safely in my garage and generally only do what I can do on the very low six inch drive up "hot rod" ramps made of plastic...) I gave him the can of ATE blue, which he said was plenty. He's a certified Mercedes/BMW/Mini shop with pretty great credentials (my dealership, on my final contact with them, told me that they highly recommend the shop...which I like because it's three blocks from my home. Anyhow, when I came back the car was on the lift and I mentioned that I wanted to see up front with the lower panel off, so I could see the brake slave setup. He showed me the bleed fitting, but said they didn't take anything off, and said it was fine. He uses a system that pressure feeds IN and power sucks OUT at the same time. He claims that takes care of the slave cylinder. I trust the guy, but what do you guys think?

 

K-huevo,

Saw your post on these two pages, http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/foru...read.php?t=476 and https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...id-change.html, and was wondering where you purchased the Clutch Bleed Tool (Part #90-88-6-215-030) from and how much it cost.

Hope you can help me out.

Jason

 

Just spoke with a MINI dealer and they said the #90-88-6-215-030 is not a valid number. Can you check to verify the number again.