Help Identifying This!
#1
Help Identifying This!
Claims it is a 1971 Mini Cooper S. It has a right-hand drive, the older style 2-color tail lights and the door hinges are inside the door.
But it also has 2 gas fills on the rear, which I don't see any information on why it has this or what Mk designation it is unique to.
Just need some help and it does present a buying opportunity if it is unique.
But it also has 2 gas fills on the rear, which I don't see any information on why it has this or what Mk designation it is unique to.
Just need some help and it does present a buying opportunity if it is unique.
Last edited by Staggs; 09-10-2013 at 06:40 PM.
#2
I asked a friend of mine about this and here is his response.
"1971 could be a MK III cooper S. Twin fuel tanks means it is a S in those years. The engine and gearbox -- does the gearbox have rods to change gears then it doesn't have the original engine. Do you have some interior photo's of the car?"
Let me know and I will see if he can help you anymore.
"1971 could be a MK III cooper S. Twin fuel tanks means it is a S in those years. The engine and gearbox -- does the gearbox have rods to change gears then it doesn't have the original engine. Do you have some interior photo's of the car?"
Let me know and I will see if he can help you anymore.
#3
MiniMania used to have a great "model year" descriptor with most variations.
Visually, it looks pretty Mark III ish......the second tank could have been added. so engine /gearbox will help. it could have started as standard and been modified to S....
998 engine for standard, 1275 for S . . . there are identifying numbers in the engine bay that will help. Check MiniMania
Visually, it looks pretty Mark III ish......the second tank could have been added. so engine /gearbox will help. it could have started as standard and been modified to S....
998 engine for standard, 1275 for S . . . there are identifying numbers in the engine bay that will help. Check MiniMania
#4
arches, wheels and headrests all suggest a later car that's a re-vin
start easy - does your VIN plate say who made it?
second tank is easy to add - not all that unusual if heading for the rally look as suggested by the roll cage. btw IS there a second tank or just a filler? fake filler for Cooper look is a few dollars (ask how I know)
Does it have disk brakes? What size rotors? If larger than 7.5 inch they are not classic Cooper or S (which are needed to run proper Cooper (s) 10" wheels.)
I believe the 69 thru end of production 71 MKIII had hydrolastic (wet) suspension (according to Walton's book)
none of this is a deal breaker if you like the car - and the price - but it IS wise to know what you are buying as sometimes there ARE parts differences. Again ... ask how I know?@#$%? Here's a biggie: does it have a A or an A+ block? 71 will be A unless re-engined. That valve cover suggests A+. Two quick checks.
Is the dizzy held to the block by a single bolt fork clamp
or a two bolt collar arrangement?
A has the two bolt
(Pictures from Seven's site)
does the dip stick slide into a tube that's attached to the block, or does it sit flush to the block? A+ sits flush, no standoff tube.
I see what appears to be a fuel line to something that does not look anything like an SU carb (or carbs) .. is it a Weber? Pic of engine is needed.
Current version of Mini Mania's guide: http://www.minimania.com/article/180...Identification
see also the 'VIN decoder' http://www.minimania.com/article/148...rt_I__Revised_
but decoding the VIN only helps if there is some confidence the VIN is correct in the first place. Otherwise it tells you about the car the VIN was taken from!
start easy - does your VIN plate say who made it?
second tank is easy to add - not all that unusual if heading for the rally look as suggested by the roll cage. btw IS there a second tank or just a filler? fake filler for Cooper look is a few dollars (ask how I know)
Does it have disk brakes? What size rotors? If larger than 7.5 inch they are not classic Cooper or S (which are needed to run proper Cooper (s) 10" wheels.)
I believe the 69 thru end of production 71 MKIII had hydrolastic (wet) suspension (according to Walton's book)
none of this is a deal breaker if you like the car - and the price - but it IS wise to know what you are buying as sometimes there ARE parts differences. Again ... ask how I know?@#$%? Here's a biggie: does it have a A or an A+ block? 71 will be A unless re-engined. That valve cover suggests A+. Two quick checks.
Is the dizzy held to the block by a single bolt fork clamp
or a two bolt collar arrangement?
A has the two bolt
(Pictures from Seven's site)
does the dip stick slide into a tube that's attached to the block, or does it sit flush to the block? A+ sits flush, no standoff tube.
I see what appears to be a fuel line to something that does not look anything like an SU carb (or carbs) .. is it a Weber? Pic of engine is needed.
Current version of Mini Mania's guide: http://www.minimania.com/article/180...Identification
see also the 'VIN decoder' http://www.minimania.com/article/148...rt_I__Revised_
but decoding the VIN only helps if there is some confidence the VIN is correct in the first place. Otherwise it tells you about the car the VIN was taken from!
Last edited by Capt_bj; 09-11-2013 at 05:46 AM.
#6
it could have started as standard and been modified to S....
Nooooo ... we disagree on this point .....
My 1979 Mk IV has been retro'd with a MK1 boot lid, MK1 tail lights
[hints, where is the lic' plate light and shape of tail lights]
and the glass front clip sports a MK1 grill (sans whiskers)
and it has S 7.5 disks ....
but it is NOT a MK1 much less a Cooper or Cooper S
you don't build them out of parts catalogs after the fact . . .
I get a bunch of discussions started from my car show sign that says
Not a Cooper
***
Nooooo ... we disagree on this point .....
My 1979 Mk IV has been retro'd with a MK1 boot lid, MK1 tail lights
[hints, where is the lic' plate light and shape of tail lights]
and the glass front clip sports a MK1 grill (sans whiskers)
and it has S 7.5 disks ....
but it is NOT a MK1 much less a Cooper or Cooper S
you don't build them out of parts catalogs after the fact . . .
I get a bunch of discussions started from my car show sign that says
Not a Cooper
***
Last edited by Capt_bj; 09-11-2013 at 03:08 PM.
#7
I don't think the engine is stock anyway.
Thanks for your help. I will have to go back to the seller to verify some of the comments you have made so far. It is an awesome car, but want to be sure I know exactly what I am buying. The Mini histories are quite muddy and this isn't as straightforward!
Thanks for your help. I will have to go back to the seller to verify some of the comments you have made so far. It is an awesome car, but want to be sure I know exactly what I am buying. The Mini histories are quite muddy and this isn't as straightforward!
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#8
blurry and moves fast .. but the seats look to be Cobra Classics with headrests or similar ... it has a lot of the same aftermarket parts I have on my car.
here's the biggest question in my mind att without going into the engine. IF this is a genuine 71 Cooper S ... why would anyone remove the 10" wheels and go to larger?
But maybe that's just a quirk of mine .. thinking the 10" wheels define the classic look
As a modified Mini - disregarding Cooper claims - it isn't a bad looking car at all; and altho it doesn't sound good at idle that's probably fixed easily with timing, points, plugs et al and a simple valve adjustment.
Important question to ask ... does the car have the hardened valve seats so you can run un-leaded gas? Seller's knowing and being able to discuss is as and maybe MORE important than the answer! {how much does he know about his car}
What's he asking if you care to share?
parting it out:
roll cage - $800 to $1000 or more (install can cost $$)
Cobra Classic seats $300+ each plus mounts ...
fresh carpets anywhere from $250 to more depending on quality
flip gas cap covers $45 each (Seven Ent)
just a few items for your info . . . on one hand these changes decrease value from a 'true cooper' price, but can add to a 'nice Mini' price.
*** have you done the rust check according to the guide available here on NAM? ***
here's the biggest question in my mind att without going into the engine. IF this is a genuine 71 Cooper S ... why would anyone remove the 10" wheels and go to larger?
But maybe that's just a quirk of mine .. thinking the 10" wheels define the classic look
As a modified Mini - disregarding Cooper claims - it isn't a bad looking car at all; and altho it doesn't sound good at idle that's probably fixed easily with timing, points, plugs et al and a simple valve adjustment.
Important question to ask ... does the car have the hardened valve seats so you can run un-leaded gas? Seller's knowing and being able to discuss is as and maybe MORE important than the answer! {how much does he know about his car}
What's he asking if you care to share?
parting it out:
roll cage - $800 to $1000 or more (install can cost $$)
Cobra Classic seats $300+ each plus mounts ...
fresh carpets anywhere from $250 to more depending on quality
flip gas cap covers $45 each (Seven Ent)
just a few items for your info . . . on one hand these changes decrease value from a 'true cooper' price, but can add to a 'nice Mini' price.
*** have you done the rust check according to the guide available here on NAM? ***
Last edited by Capt_bj; 09-12-2013 at 01:47 PM.
#9
He's asking $11k. I didn't really get into the finer details of the car, I was pressed for time and only saw it because I was in the area with a friend - I did not know much about the classic Mini - I appreciate all of your input so far. I have a nice list of things I'd want to check out now with a second meeting to discuss the car in more detail.
#10
there are a few ways to tell if its a real S.....take a look at the back of engine If its an S block there should be an ally plate with 1275 stamped on fitted to the block... cylinder head will have 10 nuts and one bolt at thermstat end..the dizzy would have no vacum advance....should have 10" disc brake set up...a 130mph speedo dial......
#11
#12
#13
1971 Mini Cooper S has twin tanks and is classified as Mk3. As said the lack of roof gutter side drip rails means this is a later Mk4 bodyshell and will have the rod gearbox tunnel rather than earlier remote.
It could be a genuine Mk3 S re-shelled but more likely a re-VIN. OK at the right price for what it is if you like it.
It could be a genuine Mk3 S re-shelled but more likely a re-VIN. OK at the right price for what it is if you like it.
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