I just picked up a 1960 Morris 850 mini also called an Austin mini 850. It is in rough condition but fixable. It has been sitting for 16 years. I hooked a battery to it the other day and ran the + terminal to the chassi and the negative to the cable that runs to the starter. The light on the gauges will turn on with the key but I can't get it to turn over at all. I have tried to jump the starter like I can a modern car but it does nothing. Does anyone know if there is a way to jump the starter? Also I checked to 2 fuses under the hood they are both good bit I can't get the headlights or anything else to turn on at all. The wiring looks really good through our the car so I'm hoping something was just unplugged. I have two toggle switches in the middle of my dash and a turn style *** as well. Nothing is labeled and I'm not sure what they go to either. Can anyone help me maybe give me a place to start looking? Thank you

 

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welcome to the world of Mini and old English cars in general

this IS a nice place to begin research

LIKE

Did you know tha older Brit cars didn't use NEGATIVE as the 'earth' ?????

I'm not smart enuf about volts and electrons to say that was (among) your problems, but it is where I would start . . .

 

Yea I have the positive connected to the earth or chassi so that not the problem but thank you for the advice. Keep me coming the more info the better

 

I would check the starter solenoid.

George

 

Where is that located?

 

I'm new to the mini scene and I'm just starting to restore mine. So I'm just starting to figure out and locate things

 

got the Haynes? If no - stop and order one!

You should be able to test the starter by grounding the post of the battery to the frame (your positive earth) then taking a jumper from the neg bat terminal straight to the starter cable post. BE CAREFUL, ensure the car is in neutral, brake set and wheels blocked. If the starter jumps then the problem is the solenoid or in the ignition switch.

If no jump the starter might be dead so I'd remove it from the car, clamp it down hard and touch the poles with battery cables. If no jump now then the starter must be toast.

wrong {{{{You should find the starter solenoid just a lil above the left end of the starter - or}}} simply trace the big cable back from the starter. It connects to the solenoid . . . the solenoid is just the big relay between the battery cable coming from the back of the car and the cable to the battery. Corrrected {foot press to start} closes this relay sending juice to the starter. You should see 12 volts on the cable from the battery, and nothing on the other side until the switch is turned to start. Then you should see 12 volts on the other side too, and 12v at the starter . . . .

 

Thank you very good advice. I've already tried to jump the starter that way and got nothing so Im going to pull the starter tonight and see if it is good or not. I traced the black wire under the car but the car is sitting so low i can't see exactly where it goes but it's up behind the subframe in the front. I am looking for the correct manual so far I haven't found one for the correct year. I just picked the car up a week ago internals look good I just started fixing things first on the list is make sure it runs then tires and a floor. Any more advice on what else to look for

 

Also I was wondering if the starter switch is suppose to be in the ignition? My ignition only seems to have a on or off position so I figured there should be a push button switch located somewhere. Then I have 2 toggle switches on the dash that I'm guessing one is the the windshield wipers and the there one I'm not sure of? I also have a foot button beside the clutch pedal on the floor that I'm assuming is the headlights low and highs? Any knowledge on this would be very helpful as well. I have a wiring diagram on the car that I found online but it just shows what the wires run to not where they are located or anything like that

 

my bad, yes your MK1 should have an on/off key and a sep' push button for the starter. The start solenoid is built into the floor mounted start switch. Fm MiniMania

SWITCH FLOOR STARTER SOLENOID

The floor starter button switch on the early Mini really adds a mark of distinction; it is a classic item that properly dates the vintage of the car. BUT if it becomes intermittent it’s a real pain…you don't even have a battery cable in the engine compartment to short to the starter! http://www.minimania.com/part/17H526...ARTER-SOLENOID


recommended books


http://www.minimania.com/part/527/HA...ORKSHOP-MANUAL

http://www.minimania.com/part/BOOK02...-PORTER-HAYNES

http://www.minimania.com/part/AKD493...ACTORY-REPRINT

 

first on the list is make sure it runs then tires and a floor. Any more advice on what else to look for

BRAKES

don't try to drive it B4 you know you have brakes!

 

So the switch I thought was for high low beams is actually the starter switch?

 

Yea I'm doing All new brake lines and master cylinder next week along with clutch lines and a master for the clutch and a slave but yes very sound advice

 

I'm guessing here cuz mine is a MK4, but the starter for a MK1 is on the floor - if there is only one button down there it must be the starter.

Check your wiring diagram, does the headlight high/low and on/off run to the same switch? I'm guessing the dash toggle was 3 position maybe? I believe your two dash toggles are lights and heater fan. The pulls are the choke and the heater on/off.

 

That sounds about right so I'll try it when I get home. I still think I have a short somewhere since I can only get my gauge light to turn on but I can trace that down with a little time and a test light. You are being very helpfully thank you

 

remember

why do Brits drink warm beer?

Because LUCAS makes refrigerators too . . .

I still think I have a short somewhere since I can only get my gauge light to turn on but I can trace that down with a little time and a test light.

that means you ain't played with old Brit cars much

change little to LOT

 

Be sure you have a good ground cable from the engine to the chassis otherwise you'll be trying to carry starter motor voltage thru things like the accelerator cable and the shifter - bad idea. Check for rodent damage to the wiring too...

A good manual will be your best friend for this car.....

Don't try to start it with the old gas in it either, you need to clean out the bowl on the carb and make sure the fuel in the tank doesn't smell sweet, if it does, you need to drain it and replace it. Change the oil too, before you try to make it run....

Just based on the pic, you're in for one heck of a "learning experience"

Have you moved it from it's resting place yet? cause when they sit on the ground like that usually the bottom tries to become one with the earth again....

 

Yes I already put it on a flat trailer an moved it home lol. I already did the oil change had a question on that as well. Can I use synthetic or is that hard on them? The carb is off just trying to see if it will turn over or if it gets the Honda Vtec I have will be transplanted or not but I would prefer to keep it original of at all possible

 

It does need brake lines clutch lines tires and a car rebuild but for free I don't mind updating all the safety and nessisarry equipment. When I'm done most of it will be brand new so I won't have to worry about if I can drive it farther than 15 miles away from home or not. Just takes time and you'll never know it once was forgotten

 

Also if anyone has tires or anything of that nature they want to sell let me know

 

Can I use synthetic or is that hard on them?

the oil most commonly recommended is plain dino 20-50 changed frequently. remember the oil sump is also the tranny fluid. I've never seen synthetic recommended.

p.s. another excellent source of information: subscribe to MINIWORLD
http://www.miniworld.co.uk/

 

I think the thing you need to look at before you spend any money contemplating a Vtec or anything else is the rust.

All Minis of that era are prone to it, and that one has plenty of signs that it's well started in places like the A panels (between the door and front tire).

Take a good hard look at the sills, rockers and floor pans too, take a small screw driver and poke things - hard - it should not go thru the metal or feel flexy, if it does you have major rust to fix first. Also, look hard at where the subframes attach - especially the rear - and at the subframes themselves.

They also rust around the headlights, rear hatch, trunk floor and roof pillars.

Also the doors themselves.

Good luck, and let us know what you find.

Some more close up pics would let us help point things out for you too.

I'm not trying to discourage you, but you need to know the facts before you start spending money.

My first Mini was a '62 Cooper S, and at 6 years old it had extensive rust.

 

Starter switch should be between the seats just in front of them I beleieve. The other is probably what you thought Hi/Low beam. Also if the dynamo/generator has been depolarized it will not work.

 

So should will my headlights and stuff still turn on with out the generator/ dynamo on? Like while the car isn't running or no? I can only get 1 light. The ignition light to come on in the car no matter what switches I flip or push.