Hello,

This winter I am looking to replace my current stock shocks.
There are a bunch of options and I wanted to know if anyone has any specific experience with any of these: (Shown with GBCarParts pricing - for all 4)

I currently have 12" rims if that adds any pieces to the puzzle.

GAZ Adjustable - $328
Gmax - $135.90
KYB Premium- $129.90
KYB Excel-G - $179.95
KYB Gas-A-Just - $235
SPAX Adjustable - $349.90

Are adjustable shocks even worth it? I don't really plan on doing any extreme or large amounts of auto-x type driving.

I'll probably go with the same shocks for all 4 corners, but has anyone used different ones in the front? Any other parts in the suspension I should change while I'm in there?
I plan on checking the bearings while I'm in there.

Any input is greatly appreciated.

 

I have GMAX and they've been fine for daily driving. I'd also go KYB gas...

I had GAZ adjustables on a car and they seemd fine for the period I owned it. It did allow changes for setup for autox (which it did well)

 

I have the KYB, and they seem to do just fine. When I replaced my shocks I also switched to springs and Hi-Lo's. Right now I'm in the middle of bearings, bushings, seals, ball joints, brakes, rotors, and whatever else gets in the way.

Except for the brakes and rotors, which I am doing just because I don't want to be working on the front end in the near future, I really wish I had done everything at the same time.

 

Don't have any of the ones listed - but do have adjustables that only adjust off the car (Konis)...not very fun. I set them once all seems well enough so I have not touched them since. So if you go adjustable make sure you can adjust on the car.

3 of the 4 shock are so simple you can get them in and out really quickly so unless you have other plans to spend additional time and $$ on the car just get it done. The 4th is only a pain as the bolt at the top of the shock in the trunk under the gas tank. Tank needs to be moved to get to it. Make sure it is as empty as possible before attempting as well as the usual saftey mesasures are taken when plaing with gas near the battery. Not very fun, even the second time I did it.

If it is only an around town driver see how the shocks feel then you can decide the next steps to take...Hi-Los, adjustable rear plates, front arms, new cones/springs, etc....as you probably know the list never ends.

BTW, Nice set up!! I am also running a 1275 w/HIF44, 8.4s and 12" wheels. It's blue too .
By chance if you know what needle you are running please send me a PM, I am playing with a couple of needles I have sitting around to see what happens.

Good luck!

 

The tank does not have to be removed from the car. It can be loosened and swung out of the way to get access to the top shock bolt.

 

How hard is it to change the suspension from the cones to the springs and how do you know when you need new cones?

 

Yes - tank does not need to be removed but still a pain.

On spring or cone replacement - The rears are easy but have not attempted the fronts yet...on my list of winter projects those are supposed to be a bit difficult. How do you tell if cones are bad - not sure???? May want to see how it feels w/new shocks first. My suspension felt much better with just shock replacement but I decided to go to springs as a next step about a month or so later and am happy so far (4 months).

 

Cones last 5 or so years. They get hard and compress. You notice the front seems like there is no give or impact absorption other than the frame. It is a big job but do-able by DIY. Plan on rebuilding wearing parts in the front end when apart as you'll have it all apart anyway.. (lower arm & tie bar bushings, bearings, upper arm bushes, knuckle joints, etc.)