Speaking *generally* about voltage values (not specifically about the UJ lights):

- For anything controlling an LED, I would take 100% instead of a specific voltage level (unless you're trying to control brightness, which in this case I don't think you are).

- On my own US spec 2017 F56S that does have LED taillamps but does NOT not have UJ lights, I documented default PWM_1 values of both zero and nonzero coupled with the OUTPUT device default-set to hex 00 (meaning no output). In the case of BRAKEFORCED_2 params, OUTPUT was default-set to hex 00 (no output device) while the PWM_1 value (PWM_1_BFD) was default-set to 100% (hex 64). In another case, STANDL_H2 params, OUTPUT was default-set to hex 00 (no output device) and the PWM_1 value (PWM_1_STANDARD) was default-set to hex 00 (aka 0V). Given this variance in approach in default settings, my approach became "don't change a parameter unless you have to, and if the OUTPUT device is set to hex 00, the code evidently doesn't require that you explicitly set the voltage to zero -- or even worse, it's case by case and you can't tell what the cases are, so again don't change a parameter unless you have to."

Bear in mind that this is just my $0.02 from my own coding experience on my own car, but you get the idea. I do get the "mild OCD" -- but a better handle for coding, car or otherwise, is "touch only what you must." The fewer variables introduced the better, should the day come when you have to troubleshoot some weird.

Hope this is helpful.

 

Right, that's why I went with "100%" and "fixed" instead of a voltage and "pwm". I made educated guesses based on patterns I was seeing and what logically made sense, and I feel pretty comfortable that what I have is "correct"... but I would certainly value an opportunity to verify against the proper default values straight from MINI.

Yes and no. There's an argument to be made that only touching the bare minimum to get something to appear to work may be effectively introducing a number of variables if there were other settings that are supposed to be changed along with it, but weren't... that the fewest number of variables is achieved when the coding matches what it would be from the factory.

For example, the _IGR_RELEVANT parameter...
That setting appears to control whether messages are sent to an "intelligent alternator control IGR", which supposedly optimizes CO2 emissions by controlling when the 12V battery is charged vs when alternator power is sent directly to vehicle loads. I'm not sure that functionality is even present in a MINI without an engine (like the SE that I was doing this for), but there seemed to be a pattern of LED outputs having their associated _IGR_RELEVANT parameter set to 'not_active' (possibly due to their lower current demand?), so that's what I ran with. Following a strict "don't touch anything you don't have to" strategy, one would leave that set 'active'... but then there's a possibility that may lead to chasing weird faults.

 

Short version reply: I follow your reasoning on the "yes and no" part and agreed especially re when the coding matches what it would be from the factory. The challenge is laying hands on what those values are given different install options, people changing things, software updates that may or may not change default values, etc.

I don't want to derail the thread so going to taper off, but I'm impressed with the knowledge set you've got on this -- I have been trying to figure out the role and relevance of those IGR values for what feels like forever. Happy to share what values I find in my car. I know what I have and haven't changed, and what I have changed from and to; so at minimum I can give my own car's defaults. Will shoot you a PM.

 

Just wanted to update we have some new Ziza versions for the Gen 3 MINIs. The newer ones have a more vibrant design and include the black line trims around the tail lights.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ziza-par...g-tail_lights/

 

So fit is excellent and it's awesome that the trim is included. Testing they work great. All necessary signalling worked perfectly. Now today was the first day that they went under normal use. I've gotten the brake light error. Got home and tested, all seems fine. Will have to try and to a driving test to see what's going on. Will update!

 

Ok thanks. Glad you liked them. Yep that weird, check your top brake light on the roof. People have seen once in a blue moon errors like the LKM trips on bulb checks. I have seen this on some aftermarkets. The inline canbus resistor does not keep up with the LKM in the car. Does nothing just a random error, goes away.

 

So update on the ZIZA tail lights. Man they look good!!!!
So I did some coding. Haven't been able to test drive so will keep you all posted!
And if anyone wants to know I believe they work like UK. Union Jack with DRL and or regular lights. Red line on side for brakes and amber/yellow turn signals. All work separately, no issues with braking and signals.
So 2 days later and all is working perfectly! Coded all taillight and brake parameters to led and boom! The look awesome on my moonlight gray S!

 

Can you post up some install pics after afterwards? Love to see these on different colored MINIs

 

Crappy pictures but they do look awesome.
Will get better ones taken as soon as it stops raining!

 

Those look awesome!

 

Hello ECS Tuning, does the amber sequential turn signal work on these without having to mess with coding or anything? I bought a set of Vland ones and that function isn’t working. Just don’t want to have to return another set. Thanks!

 

Takes some coding which i believe is further up in the thread outside of the normal sequential, they are really quick and move from inside to outside on the amber bar.

 

Found it.

 

Is ziza the same as vland for gen 2? Images on site look very similar.

 

hi there.

May I ask what coding did you do? I though these work out the box just plug and play. Why was coding required and what sort of coding did you perform?

thank you.

 

if you use ISTA and go under software updates and go to retrofits and choose coding for LCI tail lights and update it .you will have no need to use BC for the OEM mini lights from then on

 

You have to code because depending on what year your MINI is and what options it has the rear turn signal electrical pulse might not operate in the way the taillights need to function properly. For my 2022 F56 I had to separate the electrical signal from the turn signal because it was matched with the brake light electrical signal and didnt function separately. As with any aftermarket part they might be plug and play for some cars but not all.

 

Can you clarify, did you retrofit the UJ tail lights to a car that didn’t have them? Or, did you install aftermarket UJ tail lights to a car that came with the OE UJ tail lights?

 

In my personal experience I have a 2022 F56 so it already came with OE UJ lights. So I was installing aftermarket taillights. Some of the older 3rd Gens that have the circular taillights dont need to separate the turn and brake signal, but need to be coded for LED over halogen. There is a variety of options, thats why I mentioned that coding is required for most people.

 

Right, my car came with the OE UJ lights from the factory, too. I’ve avoided the aftermarket options – or really what I want, OE UK/EU tails – because no one seems to have figured out the coding properly to separate the brake light and turn signal functions (since they’re combined with the OE U.S. UJ tail lights). It seems you’ve figured that out, however?