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I have gotten input from Mike, he's probably the most resourceful when it comes to minis. He seems to really know what he is talking about, problem is that I can't always get him to respond. He probably gets sick of answering questions lol. I usually post everything on that mini Cooper forum that I post on here to get more input and different suggestions. He's the one who I got the cam ring idea from.
I have no idea why it's becoming random with the code. That has only really happened in the past two days. Only once before after I switched Vanos solenoids did it stay off for one drive cycle. It usually comes on at the same exact time I turn on the engine. I don't think ite electrical since I tested the wiring.
I bought the pierburg solenoids. Good quality. I don't think swapping them would solve anything since they are both brand new. I think solving the gremlins eating after midnight problem would be easier than this. Actually surprised they haven't tried to remake that movie yet. You have been very helpful on possibilities and overall just responding. I think I'm just going to pull the cover, replace the cam rings, test the movement in the cams for any extensive play ( which may tell me if a phaser went out) pull the exhaust cam out, check everything then put it all back in with the pretension tool and see what happens then. Probably this weekend. I'll post what goes wrong after that lol.
The code is saying that there is no voltage present though in the cam sensor circuit (Voltage = None) when there is a crank signal present. Still seems like an electrical issue with the sensor, connector, harness.
I'm going to check them again with the multimeter when I get home. One wire is signal which should read 5v, one is power which should read 5v and the other is ground which should read around 12.6 volts right?
I believe so. One 5v is to self test itself upon start up and the other is the signal wire feedback to the computer. The black ground you should get battery voltage when touching +12. You test the intake and exhaust and should get same readings.
Ok, tested the connectors, I'm getting 5v on the middle and outer and 12.3 on the other outter on both connectors. So pin 1 and 2 are signal and pin 3 is ground on both connectors. I'm guessing the connectivity is good then?
Could you be more specific on where each voltmeter lead is? Is negative lead always on a chassis ground for these values? It would be interesting if you could manually power the sensor and rotate the camshaft while monitoring the voltage of the signal pin. Somewhere in the camshafts rotation that voltage should change when the magnet/notch/whatever is in front of the sensor. At these rpms, I'm fairly certain these are dumb on/off signals and not CAN.
I'm not sure I understand the question about the negative lead always on the chassis ground. I would touch the positive probe to where the pin would go in on the sensor connector and the negative to the battery. Then the negative probe to the connector and positive to the battery. I'm getting 5v on the two yellow on exhaust and on blue and yellow on intake. 12.3v on the black and white. I'm not entirely sure I know what I'm doing as far as electrical but have an idea from YouTube that I'm doing it correctly. There Is a way to test the sensor outside of the cover using a socket extension in place of the camshaft but you have to put the probes in the back of the connector while it is connected to the sensor with the key on but I couldn't get the probes to read anything doing that. I think the connector is too insulated from that direction. I learned that from the auto repair guys on YouTube. How to test a camshaft position sensor but I don't know how to upload it to here.
Took the rocker cover off today. Tried to move the cams with the 27mm. There was almost no play on the cams. I did notice something on the exhaust cam at the end that goes into the vacuum pump. There is play on this small piece. I'm not sure if it is meant to do that or if it's something that is broken. Posted two pictures below. Does anyone know the purpose of this part and if it is supposed to move back and forth?
Sorry for confusion. I don't know what the voltage should be but your methodology seems sound. The circle in your picture shows where the camshaft mates with the vacuum pump. A bit of play there won't hurt anything. Immediately to the left of your circle, is that the cam lobe that turns the sensor on? Anything stand out to you looking at the finish around that part, that might indicate it not triggering the sensor?
I'm not sure I understand the question about the negative lead always on the chassis ground. I would touch the positive probe to where the pin would go in on the sensor connector and the negative to the battery. Then the negative probe to the connector and positive to the battery. I'm getting 5v on the two yellow on exhaust and on blue and yellow on intake. 12.3v on the black and white. I'm not entirely sure I know what I'm doing as far as electrical but have an idea from YouTube that I'm doing it correctly. There Is a way to test the sensor outside of the cover using a socket extension in place of the camshaft but you have to put the probes in the back of the connector while it is connected to the sensor with the key on but I couldn't get the probes to read anything doing that. I think the connector is too insulated from that direction. I learned that from the auto repair guys on YouTube. How to test a camshaft position sensor but I don't know how to upload it to here.
Are you probing the back side of the connector where the wires enter on the connection side to the sensor? Maybe there is some intermmitent issue between the sensor and connector prongs?
Perhaps you need to check these also when plugged in with the car running. I would expect to see one of the 5V wires doing something different plugged in with the sensor and running.
Have you seen this site for the check/test of the cam position sensor? Its not unheard of to get bad "new" parts. I recently went through that with an O2 sensor for my Cummins diesel truck... Brand new Bosch O2 sensor threw the same code as my original, spent days going through wiring and connectors. Ended up replaced with yet another new Bosch and was good to go.
I think I may have figured it out. This is completely stupid if it is what happened..... I pulled the cover off and was going to redo the timing yesterday, I started wiping down the camshaft directly below where the sensor signal should be reading. I decided to turn the engine to check the locking tools. Everything was in line. Then I took them off and turned the engine again at the crank while watching the cam. I'm pretty tall so I can see them move while turning the crank. I noticed something very small on the cam near the part where the sensor should be reading. It was a freaking tiny magnet that I sometimes use in a socket to hold bits. It must have come out of the socket on the work area I was using when I first pulled the cams to do the valve seals. I must have put the cam near the magnet and didn't realize it. I have started the car about 8 times now after removing the magnet and putting it all back together. Code has not come back yet which in theory would make sense if that magnet was pushing an opposing polarity with the cam sensor. I couldn't believe it. Still don't believe it as a matter a fact. Everytime I start it I expect to see the code but so far so good. I'll keep a weekly update on this. Thanks a million for helping me try to figure this out. The picture of the magnet is below.
