Hey, I'm getting the turbocharger rebuilt on my 2013 Countryman JCW, and I've seen comments about replacing the catalytic converter as well. The turbo failure seems to be from age at 10 years/223 000kms...started whining, throwing low charging pressure codes, and going into limp mode. There's a lot of play on the shaft. There was no smoke or signs that the oil supply line failed.

So as much fun as this job has been (), I have zero desire to spend the time and money again and have read that a clogged cat will ruin a new turbo. I'm borrowing a scope tomorrow to take a proper look, but I really don't know what to look for unless it's all melted into a glob.

Have any of you guys had to replace the cat too, and if so, under what conditions?

PS yes, I am replacing both oil lines and the oil filter housing gasket while I'm at it.

 

Keep us posted on the turbo replacement, I feel like I am getting more oil than normal in the charge tube so I am wondering if the seals on the turbo are shot. So far no codes and it is building boost, just using oil.

 

I would be tempted to pick up a high flow aftermarket cat or a cat less downpipe....

 

I just went through the turbo replacement (smoking heavily) on a 2011 R60 S and I ended up replacing the cat as well.
It wasn't clogged, but rattling when I shook it, so the media inside has separated from the walls and it would be only a matter of tume befire it failed completely. Yes, the extra bill wasn't welcome.

 

That would be great if one didn't have emissions testing to pass?

 

I noticed oil in the outlet last year but was told a small amount was expected so I ignored it. I think it was leaking slowly for awhile, so maybe if I'd changed the oil lines earlier I could have saved the turbo. It didn't start throwing codes until recently.

 

Ah, fun times!
The rebuilder doesn't do wastegates, so because mine is sloppy he says I need a new turbo.
At least the cat looks okay and doesn't rattle, so I'll save a few $$$ there.

 

Yeah, if it was a track car maybe. But it's my daily driver and it has 223 000kms on it. If I wanted to spend big bucks on it, I'd upgrade the turbo too.

 

My Turbo seems to be passing a bit more oil that I would have expected or liked into the charge pipe (I believe that is what its called, the plastic pipe up from the intake then back down to the intercooler. Anyways, I have seen alot of videos online on taking out the Turbo's on many other Mini Modes but not many on the R60. I know they are related though. To take out the Turbo, how much of the front end needs to come out?

 

I replaced a converter on another car not because it was plugged but because the converter "brick" was loose and would knock about on a cold start then buzz like crazy when hot. The converter still worked -- most of the time. Occasionally the brick would get jostled out of position and then the ECU would log a P0430 error and turn on the CEL. That's (bank #2) converter operation below efficiency threshold.

But upon complete cool down the brick would get back into a position and work. Passed several CA emissions test with the converter that way. But I got tired of the noise and bought a pair of used exhaust manifolds -- with the converter part of the manifold -- and had a dealer tech do the swap. Quiet ensued and the used converters worked just fine.

My point? Unless you see the thing is clogged or bits of converter fall out -- when I bought the used manifolds part of my check out of them was to shake them and listen for any noise and turn them this way and that to see if anything fell out -- I'd leave the converter alone. If there is a P0420 error code or any other converter codes and with no O2 sensor codes that might be a sign it is time to replace the converter.

Oh, while one converter brick was loose both worked and had over 250K miles on them when they were replaced. With another car, this one turbo charged, the converters were fine at 161K miles. Based on my experience I'd say at 223,000kms (133K miles) the converter is not due to be changed on miles alone. But you know installing a new converter would provide you with peace of mind.

 

I put mine in front end service mode. I think the extra room is worth pulling it apart, especially if you're doing the oil supply and return lines (and you should, if you haven't). I'm not one to do extra work if I don't have to, but in this case I think this work saves more time in the end. I do use a few shortcuts...only pull back half the wheel well liner, just loosen the wheel arch trim, leave the condenser in place...but it's still about an hour of fiddling with clips and harnesses. Then I support the bumper assembly on a pair of stools.

Oh, and the oil filter housing gasket is a common leak area, so you should check it while you're there. Same with the thermostat housing. All much easier to reach when you have the bumper off.

 

Thanks! The scope showed no clogs or apparent damage to the honeycomb on either end, and there's no rattling that would indicate it's loose or broken inside. I've never had to replace a cat ever, even with cars I ran up to 600 000kms, so I'm going to stick with the current one.