In the next few weeks my 2014 Countryman S FWD Auto with 66k miles is going in for quite a bit of work.
Any suggestions for additional items to cover while the current work is being done would be helpful.

Initial deceleration rattle inspection uncovered an oil leak from the oil filter housing

• Replace oil filter housing gaskets to resolve leak
  

• Most likely cause of above deceleration rattle is from Turbo Wastegate – Replace Turbo with JMTC K03 Turbo: 40mm (no labor due to oil filter housing work)
  
• New rattle/vibration, most likely Transmission mount, ordered new Transmission mount & stiffening insert
  
• Replace OEM spark plugs with Colder Heat Range spark plugs
  
• Replace OEM exhaust manifold with performance exhaust manifold and associated gaskets (no labor due to oil filter housing work)
  
• Replace current Turbo heat blanket with Titanium Heatshield (no labor due to oil filter housing work)
  
• Install oil catch can for preventing intake manifold oil build up
  
• Install Forged recirculation valve
  
• Replace Drive Belt, recommended every 50k miles never done
  
• Replace aging vacuum lines
  
• Mechanic to review any other aging lines, or coolant lines and replace
  
• Due to current scope of work and potential savings on labor for, Timing & Oil Pump Chain Kit and replacement engine mount
  
• Not doing this: $599 for the kit $680 for install - Install Boost and Oil temp gauges, oil temp due to many short trips gotta know when it’s at real operating temp
  

 

Can anyone suggest a good Mini shop in the Los Angeles area for this kind of work? go as far as AZ.

 

The housing gasket leak is super common in these cars.

Note there are wastegate kits you can get if you want to save some money, but if a bigger turbo is the goal then that's great.

You mentioned checking, I would be tempted to just go ahead and change your timing belt. It's at the mileage and age where that would be a good idea, and your car is apart anyway if you are doing the motor mount. That will give you the new tensioner as well.

 

Thank you, good call on the timing belt, one thing I'm not sure what you mean could you clarify this part for me please:

"...., and your car is apart anyway if you are doing the motor mount. That will give you the new tensioner as well."
Is it the Timing chain tensioner that is in this timing chain kit LINK ? (also doing the oil pump chain) or are you saying I should do the other tensioner(s) as well?

Additional tensioner(s) one these parts?
Way Motor Works Tensioner Friction Wheel
Way Motor Works Belt Tensioner

 

For some reason I can't get to those links, but normally you'd get a timing chain kit.

Here's the one from ECS (which is where I got mine), and aside from the chain and guide, it has the pins, sprocket, stretch bolts, and the thing on the top of the picture is the tensioner. There is a new design for the tensioner that's longer, and helps prevent the "death rattle".

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...1311439853kt2/

 

Awesome yes similar kit Way Motor Works has, I opted for parts to be cryo treated.

Feeling this service list is going to leave me with a solid machine.

I think that oil seepage discovered is either oil filter housing seals or oil selenoid and assembly. Really not dropping any oil on the floor…

 

looks like a very costly tune up....what is it gonna cost you?

 

Bro i have no idea, oil filter housing seal labor runs around $1,200. So the rest, i mean... I'm going to find out.

 

i have a 2012 countryman S love it but here in NJ everything is expensive u have like $4k worth of work in my world.
my turbo needs some luv but is a $1500 cost..
great fast fun car...it.luvs going to njshore on njparkway 80mph all day.
good luck. i have a $800 repair in few weeks.

 

I just got quoted 1500 for the oil filter housing gasket. Planning on doing it myself, just ordered the whole kit. I am a new owner and bought a junk R60 getting it all fixed up. For what it is, I totally love it. So far done by my two hands: new water pump $63(to stop coolant leak, BMW quoted $950); serpentine belt -$23; ATF done twice; oil filter and oil change 3 times; four new tires with rims; new HPFP done under warranty, but if I would pay they quoted $2500; LED front headlights - totally love them; Don't know how people keep up these cars if have to pay labor for the repairs...

 

Most people just take them to the dealer. Pay the price, other people like to save money.

 

My dealer prepared a quote of 4.4K to fix the car... It simply does not make a lot of sense. Soon, I would pay more for parts and labor then the vehicle is worth.

 

Yeah its tough if you do not have the space or tools to do your own work. Also helps if you have more than one car so you can take your time.
Plan to be in that position soon but until then, wallet rape.

I'll be sure to post the costs associated with this work and parts once completed.

 

Most of the parts are darn cheap, most of the work is bloody expensive. Most of the owners of 7+ years are doing it alone and the one going to see the dealership, don't last too long before they sell the vehicle.

 

These cars are hard to work on (compared to a Ford pickup or something like that), so a lot of the cost is labour.

''For the oil filter housing for sure a lot of it is labour, as is a timing chain.

 

Correct me if wrong, but not sure he needs to get a new timing chain - unless hearing a pronounced rattle. I'm not talking serpentine belt. As I *remember* that was only a problem in the earlier engine (N14 as I recall) with the guides/tension failing. He should have the newer engine in that N18 that has hopefully been corrected. So I hope because I have the N18!!

 

Yes, yes, of course needs to be sure it is the chain. They last about 100-130K depends on drive stile and version (all4's tend to go earlier).
For the oil housing, tell me about it- I am just going through it, kit arrives tomorrow, I have her turn to pieces and still not there yet..

 

Bro its a scary rattle, and I really cannot rule out the engine block as the source. I'm doing the timing chain kit with the oil pump chain and the motor mount plus a reinforcement insert on a replacement transmission mount.
Know more this week on potential install costs and I'll be sure to share.

 

There are number of videos with the distinct chain rattle in Mini's. Well, if you are already doing it, please let us know if it resolved the noise. This is one of the very few things left for me if I keep the vehicle...
I Just completed the oil housing to fix oil and coolant leaks, and due for a good brake from this BMW wonder engine.

 

Quoted $3,967 without the install of the gauges kit.
Probably get the car back next week some time.

 

IMHO if a vehicle needs such a costly repair, it is better to jump to a new one. For this amount you only scratching the surface, it's not a complete overhaul and with the time there will be other problems coming down the pipe. Either do it myself and pay only parts, or it makes no sense to keep it. Leases in some areas are very tempting, no repairs, no out of pocket$, drive new vehicle... Just sharing thoughts..

 

I'm with you on the cost, not fun. Although I have a plan for my specific situation.

As far as switching vehicles, yeah something for people to consider who aren't able to perform their own work.
For myself I just can't get excited about a different car, current Mini F60 Countryman's don't interest me or impress me from a visual walk up feel compared to the previous R60 models.

No update yet regarding the outcome of the service.

 

Starting a side conversation on another section in this forum related to this service and the turbo specifically, if anyone is interested: Turbo Break-in Process?

 

Update the turbo I bought was inspected by the mechanic today and is deemed not usable.

Purchased from outmotoring.com a "JMTC K03 Turbo: 40mm: Refurbished" shipped directly from JMTC.

Mechanic's comments and photos:

"....found that the wastegate linkage has been previously broken off and welded on, crooked, and not a very good quality repair. Also, the wastegate flap inside the turbo is not adjusted correctly. I've attached pics to compare. Both of these can cause issues, the welded piece can be broken off and cause the wastegate to stay shut causing the car to over boost and possibly cause engine damage.
The wastegate being out of adjustment will cause tuning issues due to it not opening and closing like a factory."


Ordered a brand new JCW Borg Warner turbo from ECSTuning.
My experience with JMTC is to avoid them, before this issue was found their shipping was poor, included metal gaskets arrived bent they did not offer to replace them when contacted.

 

Ugh, JMTC needs to be boycotted… That waste gate arm looks terrible! Thanks for the update