Just trying to get an idea of the job, mostly what specific tools required. Searched different Mini sites and YouTube but nothing Countryman specific.

 

I haven't done the brakes on mine yet. So, this is just kind of general info.

With modern (non-drum) brakes, typically all you need is a ratchet, sockets, maybe a set of wrenches (in case a bolt is difficult to get to), and something to retract the caliber pistons. Caliper pistons need to be pushed in to fit the new pads. I have used (carefully) channel locks or a C clamp and a board. The latter of those to is the better choice. They do make a piston tool, but I've never found it to be necessary.

Occasionally, you'll run into a piston that you have to turn to retract. So be on the look out for that. On those, there should be notches in the perimeter of the piston. Sometimes they are easy enough to turn by just pushing it with a flat head screw driver. Other times, you may need something designed to do the job.

Something to note. remove the cap from fluid reservoir to let the pistons move more easily, and don't top off the reservoir until all your pads are changed. Unless you disconnected a hose, for some reason, you should not have to bleed the brakes. However, depending on how old the fluid is, you may want to do a fluid change. That's a whole other set of steps, though. Basically, if the fluid is at all cloudy, or has a slight brownish tint to it, change the fluid.

 

you can pretty much count on the rears being of the turn-in variety. That's nearly universal on disc brakes with parking brake mechanism built in. (The exception being some trucks that have a separate drum brake for the parking brake)

A proper tool is not strictly needed but will save a lot of effort. (Do a search here for harbor freight brake tool )

 

I agree with the rear brakes. can be done with a c-clamp and an adjustable. every 1/4 turn they require to move into the caliper. tedious, but easy to do. but typically the caliper carriers are held on by 2 bolts behind the rotor, usually torqued to 25 ftlb. then the whole caliper can be moved to just replace pads. if the rotor needs to be changed, theres a separate torx bolt holding the rotor to the hub. that's the only thing holding it on, ive stripped 2 of them, they are quite weak especially over time.

 

Thanks for the replies. Guess I didn't describe my situation very well. I'm pretty familiar with brake replacements, just completed my kids 328xi and X1, these were probably the most straightforward replacements I ever did. Actually rears piston just compressed didn't turn in. Trying to find out if I need special tools like a thin walled wrench (size etc.)or anything else. Usually I just go to YouTube or a forum instructions and I'm set. I guess my biggest surprise is that nothing is out there.

 

Having just done this it's pretty straight forward. The front calipers will only need a c-clamp to push in the piston. The drivers side has the wear sensor so make sure to note it's path and replace it the same way when installing the pads (rear right has the other sensor). If I recall the calipers front and back are held on with a 13mm bolts and you'll need a 17mm wrench to hold the caliper pins when removing on front (15mm rear). The rear caliper piston is screw-in style -- I rented the tool from an auto parts shop for free.

 

nope, no special tools needed unless you want the special tool for doing the clamp and rotate on the rear calipers

 

Ya, there isn't much out there DIY wise for the R60. I do think all data online has some stuff for the Countryman so maybe check that out. If you decide to document this or any other work you perform on your R60 we'd love to use it for our tech article library. We even offer 10% off for your next parts order from us if we use it. More info at the link below.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/...95332-68520697