Just dialed in the rear ride height a bit, installed a water temp adapter pipe (no gauges installed yet), and installed the upgrade design Diverter valve. Big difference in power delivery after shifts. No more serious loss of boost. Compared both old and new units, no big difference in appearance and no visible signs of wear, but that old spring was tired and slow compared to the new one. 10/10 would recommend.
It seems to be one thing after another. The other day I had the rear brakes done, rotors and pads with new sensor. Nothing fancy, OEM replacement. Now all 4 wheels are done. I’ll bet the suspension is tired on this mini. Guess I’ll surf the posts and find what folks are using.
This week I'm installing:
CAE shifter
Carbon fiber hood (reduced ~25lb)
GP carbon fiber rear wing
Android Nav screen w/back up camera
In 1-2 months I'll be installed:
Sparco steering wheel
5 lb Li-ion battery (reduces ~30lb)
Carbon fiber front seats (reduces ~40-60lbs)
Water injection system
Red/white vinyl wrap (think WRC car)
In 6-9 months:
custom drive axles (to hold more torque)
custom built GTX28 low trim turbo
custom exhaust manifold
custom fuel system
RMW 1.8L stroker engine
Custom tune by Prototype-R
I wanted to start this thread because it's pretty cool to know what everyone is doing to their Countryman's on a daily basis. This thread is popular on the FJ Cruiser forums I'm on so I decided to start one here.
There's a lot I've done so far like window tint, Eclipse Sun Shade, ECU Tune, custom sound system, and much more to come.
So I'll start from today...what did I do to my Countryman today?
Added an AFE high flow "dry" filter. Thanks Scott from AFE!! The Countryman R60 filter is the same filter on the R56 Engines so it fits perfect. 100% washable and re-usable. Oh, and for those not willing to go with a aftermarket CAI but want a bit more turbo whoosh, this definitely increases the sound but not like an open filter will do and it also increases air flow so more HP.
Thermostat replacement/ update and witer tire install.👍🏻
Not today, however recently over the past couple months I had the car rewrapped to red and white. and Installed 6 pot with 356mm rotors front and rear. Also had a nav screen and backup cam center console installed to update some of the tech.
I’ve got a 2013 Countryman S. not sure where to post this, so I’ll try here.
Engine misfire and after much work they continue.
Checked all sensors, replaced sparks and coils and the fuel injectors too.
I’m at a loss for what to do next.
Feeling defeated and without much direction.
I replaced the turbo and the misfires then started.
What are the chances that the ignition coil wiring harness is to blame?
Nothing was forced and all connections went in where they were supposed to go.
The misfire is in cylinder 4 but code shows others too except #2
Any suggestions as to next step?
Thank you for your help 🙏
You should have led with "I replaced the turbo."
Questions. Is it a larger turbo? Stock, aftermarket?
If larger, who did your software update, ecu flash? Did you change recirc valve, CAI, downpipe, etc.
List everything that changed, or was removed and reinstalled.
Last, but not least. How old is your battery. Sounds trivial, but yeah a 5 year old 11.8 volt battery will cause a misfire. If you get a new battery, be sure to register it in the ecu.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mambomydog
I’ve got a 2013 Countryman S. not sure where to post this, so I’ll try here.
Engine misfire and after much work they continue.
Checked all sensors, replaced sparks and coils and the fuel injectors too.
I’m at a loss for what to do next.
Feeling defeated and without much direction.
I replaced the turbo and the misfires then started.
What are the chances that the ignition coil wiring harness is to blame?
Nothing was forced and all connections went in where they were supposed to go.
The misfire is in cylinder 4 but code shows others too except #2
Any suggestions as to next step?
Thank you for your help 🙏
Yes it’s a larger turbo. Went from S to stock JCW. From what I understood before purchasing the JCW turbo, mini’s ECU would adapt to the slightly higher boost without problems as a tune was something I was looking into for the future. Recirc, DP, intercooler and intake are all stock. Took the front end off for installation of the turbo too. Otherwise everything else was left untouched.
Battery was replaced in January
Quote:
Originally Posted by thebestbear
You should have led with "I replaced the turbo."
Questions. Is it a larger turbo? Stock, aftermarket?
If larger, who did your software update, ecu flash? Did you change recirc valve, CAI, downpipe, etc.
List everything that changed, or was removed and reinstalled.
Last, but not least. How old is your battery. Sounds trivial, but yeah a 5 year old 11.8 volt battery will cause a misfire. If you get a new battery, be sure to register it in the ecu.
Probably should start your own thread for this, this is a pretty significant problem and deserves its' own place.
This might seem obvious, but how far did you go with taking the front end off to replace the turbo? Really didn't need to. Though, I don't know enough about these cars in depth to say there is an electrical connection possibly damaged.
Obviously, friend, the JCW turbo is probably the issue. Indeed, there might be documentation out there saying the ECU will just adapt. And maybe it can, but it seems yours is not for some reason.
Be patient, someone on here will help you more than I can. You might wish to post a city, state location a couple of hours away from your home, for security purposes, that you are willing to drive to. Someone on here might know the location and advise a good tuning shop.
I’ll see if I can get in touch with a tuner. I have a feeling I may have damaged the ecu though. I tested the voltage to the coils and I have no voltage on cyl4 while running and I’ve heard that no voltage to an injector is an indicator of a faulty ecu. Maybe it’s the same for coil?
in terms of taking the front end off, I put it in service mode then ended up disconnecting, supporting and swivelling the rad support off to the side. The only sensors that I was close to and took off were turbo related or the o2 sensors so I don’t think it’s there.
I do agree it’s probably the turbo that caused it. Unfortunate but live and learn I guess.
Thanks for your help so far, I really appreciate it.
New to us 2011 R60 All4 S manual with 92k miles for our son. Needed ALOT of maintenance, but no rust. This was all done over 3 weeks
- timing chain, VANOS sprockets and solenoids, front crank seal
- valve cover/PCV, coils, spark plugs
- oil cooler, oil pan gaskets, turbo drain line
- water pump & pulley, coolant pipe, hoses, thermostat housing, system flush
- pass side motor mount, tensioner, drive belt
- front and rear pads and rotors, rear calipers, fluid flush
she purrs like new now, no oil or coolant leaks, for which our driveway is very grateful
today replaced all the exterior lights with LEDs and polished the headlamps (more work to do there). Need to do some hood and roof work to deal with clear coat failures, but she's a keeper.
New to us 2011 R60 All4 S manual with 92k miles for our son. Needed ALOT of maintenance, but no rust. This was all done over 3 weeks
- timing chain, VANOS sprockets and solenoids, front crank seal
- valve cover/PCV, coils, spark plugs
- oil cooler, oil pan gaskets, turbo drain line
- water pump & pulley, coolant pipe, hoses, thermostat housing, system flush
- pass side motor mount, tensioner, drive belt
- front and rear pads and rotors, rear calipers, fluid flush
she purrs like new now, no oil or coolant leaks, for which our driveway is very grateful
today replaced all the exterior lights with LEDs and polished the headlamps (more work to do there). Need to do some hood and roof work to deal with clear coat failures, but she's a keeper.
Thats a beauty there, nice! Did you do all that mechanical work yourself? Or did you pay someone (shop) to do all that?
Thats a beauty there, nice! Did you do all that mechanical work yourself? Or did you pay someone (shop) to do all that?
100% DIY. Fortunate to have the skills patience and the basic special tools needed for the work - and a lift because I'm too darn old to do this any other way.
Have to say I dragged my feet on the thermostat housing and cooling pipe.. but got it done and very pleased with the outcome! If someone needs to pay to get all this stuff done, preferable with an independent mechanic. I can't imagine the bill for a out of warranty dealer service like this - $4k+
100% DIY. Fortunate to have the skills patience and the basic special tools needed for the work - and a lift because I'm too darn old to do this any other way.
Have to say I dragged my feet on the thermostat housing and cooling pipe.. but got it done and very pleased with the outcome! If someone needs to pay to get all this stuff done, preferable with an independent mechanic. I can't imagine the bill for a out of warranty dealer service like this - $4k+
That's awesome you did it all yourself, and sounds like you are both skilled and knowledgeable for sure, and got all/most of the weak spots. Yes, the bill for all that work would be substantial for sure.
That's awesome you did it all yourself, and sounds like you are both skilled and knowledgeable for sure, and got all/most of the weak spots. Yes, the bill for all that work would be substantial for sure.
thanks! NAM mini2 and YouTube were indispensable, as well as a Schwaben/Foxwell scan tool and a very reasonable subscription to the service manuals from eautorepair.net. I did have a bit of an issue with a key FOB which I’ll get sorted at the dealer. Also neglected to tighten the ground strap to the new passenger motor mount properly on reassembly.. that led to some nasty CAS errors and assuming the worst. Fortunately common sense prevailed before I started taking the dash apart to get to the CAS module.
Put the kayaks on her for the first time. Mini crossbars with Yakima Stacker poles. Approx 80 miles round trip. High teens/low 20's MPG at 73mph indicated...Not what I was hoping but the whole experience was better than I honestly expected.
100% DIY. Fortunate to have the skills patience and the basic special tools needed for the work - and a lift because I'm too darn old to do this any other way.
Have to say I dragged my feet on the thermostat housing and cooling pipe.. but got it done and very pleased with the outcome! If someone needs to pay to get all this stuff done, preferable with an independent mechanic. I can't imagine the bill for a out of warranty dealer service like this - $4k+
We got a new Countryman S All4 in 2012 and it currently has 87k miles. Just got the Countryman back from the local euro cars specialist ( independent mechanic ).
They replaced the Turbocharger assemble and the timing chain ( along with all the spare parts that go with the job and some preventive parts) with all OEM parts.
The Turbocharger and associated spares cost $2855
The Turbocharger labor breakdown was $1164
The timing chain and associated spares cost $1680
The timing chain labor breakdown was $1839
With taxes, the bill came up to $7,788 (a big ouch )( includes a few more line items such as shop supplies, initial inspection to determine the CEL etc..)
The upside, the car runs like new, all the oil leaks etc, gone, the engine bay has no oil leaks or signs of leaks)
The shop said that they will warranty the work for another 50k miles. We are hoping to get another 100k miles out of this car.
We got a new Countryman S All4 in 2012 and it currently has 87k miles. Just got the Countryman back from the local euro cars specialist ( independent mechanic ).
They replaced the Turbocharger assemble and the timing chain ( along with all the spare parts that go with the job and some preventive parts) with all OEM parts.
The Turbocharger and associated spares cost $2855
The Turbocharger labor breakdown was $1164
The timing chain and associated spares cost $1680
The timing chain labor breakdown was $1839
With taxes, the bill came up to $7,788 (a big ouch )( includes a few more line items such as shop supplies, initial inspection to determine the CEL etc..)
The upside, the car runs like new, all the oil leaks etc, gone, the engine bay has no oil leaks or signs of leaks)
The shop said that they will warranty the work for another 50k miles. We are hoping to get another 100k miles out of this car.
Wow almost $8K... What did you pay for a 2012 with almost 90K miles? Local Mini dealer keeps sending me an offer via CarFax to buy mine at $5k (105k miles).
We got a new Countryman S All4 in 2012 and it currently has 87k miles. Just got the Countryman back from the local euro cars specialist ( independent mechanic ).
They replaced the Turbocharger assemble and the timing chain ( along with all the spare parts that go with the job and some preventive parts) with all OEM parts.
The Turbocharger and associated spares cost $2855
The Turbocharger labor breakdown was $1164
The timing chain and associated spares cost $1680
The timing chain labor breakdown was $1839
With taxes, the bill came up to $7,788 (a big ouch )( includes a few more line items such as shop supplies, initial inspection to determine the CEL etc..)
The upside, the car runs like new, all the oil leaks etc, gone, the engine bay has no oil leaks or signs of leaks)
The shop said that they will warranty the work for another 50k miles. We are hoping to get another 100k miles out of this car.
That’s indeed a stunning bill, wow. Other folks posted about “OE” vs “OEM” parts.. that makes a lot of sense for some things like the turbo.
My son’s R60 went 3500 miles since the major repairs without a hitch. Late last week he had startup issues and I ended up having to replace the HPFP. A PSA (Peugeot - co-designer of the engine) OEM HPFP costs $750, the Mini one - exact same part - over $1100. I went with the PSA. Of course that was the one major engine part other than the clutch and turbo that I didn’t address. So I’ll grab a Borg Warner turbo and Sachs clutch when the time comes,
That’s indeed a stunning bill, wow. Other folks posted about “OE” vs “OEM” parts.. that makes a lot of sense for some things like the turbo.
My son’s R60 went 3500 miles since the major repairs without a hitch. Late last week he had startup issues and I ended up having to replace the HPFP. A PSA (Peugeot - co-designer of the engine) OEM HPFP costs $750, the Mini one - exact same part - over $1100. I went with the PSA. Of course that was the one major engine part other than the clutch and turbo that I didn’t address. So I’ll grab a Borg Warner turbo and Sachs clutch when the time comes,
Wow, I honestly can't even fathom those #'s especially from an independent shop. I have a 2016 S All 4 and if the shop said $7k in repairs needed I would junk it. I do need a new timing chain and am waiting for some quotes or I do it myself it they come in ridiculous. It doesn't look like fun but also not $3.5k worth of work in my opinion. Did they pull the whole motor to do all the work and that's why it was so expensive? I think the timing chain cassette is ~$300, special tools another $50-60.
Wow, I honestly can't even fathom those #'s especially from an independent shop. I have a 2016 S All 4 and if the shop said $7k in repairs needed I would junk it. I do need a new timing chain and am waiting for some quotes or I do it myself it they come in ridiculous. It doesn't look like fun but also not $3.5k worth of work in my opinion. Did they pull the whole motor to do all the work and that's why it was so expensive? I think the timing chain cassette is ~$300, special tools another $50-60.
Hmm my timing chain kit was a lot more than that - in the 400s. I do think the $1689 parts quote to @motorana was beyond excessive though - absurd. Including the HPFP I have close to $3500 in parts alone, but that includes the timing chain kit, HPFP, brakes rotors and calipers, hoses, Schwaben/Foxwell scan tool, valve cover, thermostat housing, water pump, motor mounts, fluids, some replacement trim panels, a stripe kit for when I repair the clearcoat.. I probably missed something there
Hmm my timing chain kit was a lot more than that - in the 400s. I do think the $1689 parts quote to @motorana was beyond excessive though - absurd. Including the HPFP I have close to $3500 in parts alone, but that includes the timing chain kit, HPFP, brakes rotors and calipers, hoses, Schwaben/Foxwell scan tool, valve cover, thermostat housing, water pump, motor mounts, fluids, some replacement trim panels, a stripe kit for when I repair the clearcoat.. I probably missed something there
