Hi All,
I just had my windows tinted and when I got home and took a closer look, I saw that there are now dried on drops of what I'm guessing is water or whatever they used to get the tint on inside of where the brake light is on top of the rear window. I am attaching a picture for reference.

Anyone know how to get inside of there to clean it? It's already driving me crazy!!!

 

Most likely water that was squeegeed out of the tint when they were putting it on. Wait a few days before you try and do anything to protect the tint. Then just try to lip a cloth between the light and glass or remove the 3rd brake light housing.

Michael

 

Before messing with it I would take it back to the tinter and have them deal with it. They caused the problem, so they should make it right.

 

 

Well sure if you want businesses to be accountable... sheesh

 

Any tips on how to remove the 3rd brake light housing? I may take it back to the tinter, but I don't live very close, and if things need to be taken apart on the car to clean it, I'd much rather do it myself instead of having someone else messing with it. cringe.

 

THIS PDF shows how to remove the third brake light. It is courtesy of GOMINIGO.com and their wonderful Pulsar third brake light flasher. The Pulsar just saved my CM's rear end about a week ago from a HUGE 4X4 raised Dodge Ram piloted by a distracted person.

 

If only the pulsar kept the light blinking when stopped, might have saved my R52 a few weeks ago. Now I am sweating that the body shop will finish it before my R60 comes in in the next few days.

 

Thank you, thank you! Very helpful! Glad to hear your CM is ok!

 

As a motorcyclist, I am deathly afraid of being rear-ended at stoplights. Therefore, all my vehicles have flashing brake lights (Pulsar, Hyperlights, etc.). It is also second-nature for me to watch the rear view mirror when I am stopped and I keep a keen eye on vehicles coming up behind me.

Don't be afraid to activate your Pulsar by lifting and pressing on the brake when stopped. I usually do this several times at stoplights when I see vehicles approaching from the rear. I truly believe doing this prevented me from being rammed by that Ram.

Sorry to hear about YOUR incident. The important thing is that YOU are alright! With the design and strength of the Countryman, it did its job protecting you. Hope all comes out well...

 

Our laser blue 2010 hardtop is named Grover too.

What brand and darkness did you go on your tinit?

If that is not drying out, seriously take it back - I feel your pain. I had the tint done 3 times on our Grover before it was right. First guy talked us into way too dark a tint, and we drove away with bubbles and creases all over - looked like bathroom glass! We got a full refund then went the next day to a better and closer installer.

I have good luck with the better installer on 3 of my rigs now and have a 4th car I need to get done soon before the boy heads off to college from Seattle to Atlanta.

But even with this preferred installer and the excellent Llumar brand ATC 35 film I noticed barely detectable streaks on the passenger side of the MINI. Installer agreed, said it must have been because it was the end of a roll, and re-did it free. 3rd time for that window!

Next had them match my truck's 20% rear windows, looks great but that is too dark at night.

I always have ATR 35 installed now. Looks factory without being too dark at night. And the ATR 35 metallic film reflects more heat that the ATC 35. The ultimate Llumar film is the CTX ceramic, only place I have tried that is on the MINI sunroofs. ATR 35 delivers more bang for the buck than CTX 40 when I compare the performance spec number chart found in the link below. If not afraid to go a little darker I would try the ATR 30 or CTX 30 next. In fact my installer doesn't carry the CTX 40 because everyone wants to go the darker CTX 30.

http://www.llumar.com/en/Automotive.aspx

 

You know what, I didn't realize this happened to mine as well until you mentioned it and I just checked.

Was removing the trim difficult?

 

Luckily it wasn't my CM, it was my Cabrio. Only problem now if that my CM is in and when I pick up my Cabrio I won't have time to remove the pulsar... Guess I might as well order a new one.

 

Due to this post, I checked mine and noticed water spots from my recent tint job. Opened the boot, popped off the plastic housing covering the break light, and cleaned the area in minutes. Easy job. Housing just held in place by a couple plastic plugs/rivet thingies.

 

I think there are a few Grovers on here actually!!! I went to this guy because he had great reviews on yelp. However, I have noticed a few bubbles on the back windows, so I am going to be taking it back to have it redone. The brand of the tint is SunTek Carbon Series, and he recommended 18% on the backs, and 55% on the fronts, it seems ok. I like the fronts, but the backs are a little darker than I'm used to. I can live with it though, I just have to get used to it. It looks good from the outside. I was actually going to get the Llumar because that is what I had on my previous car, but the place that carried it was over $100 more!

 

Since I just had the tint done, I am going to wait to try messing with anything but it looks like it should be fairly simple. Good luck!

 

18% rear and 55% front - never heard of that before. I would recommend 30% rear at the darkest and 35% front if you have to mix it up. Otherwise just pick one.

 

I agree, and would rather have the same all around, but I live in California where it's illegal to have the front windows tinted. So, there has to be some contrast between the front and rears so I don't get pulled over.

 

My installer did what she said was a CA legal front roll-up side window tint at 88% and all the back at 35%.

 

In California there is no legal tint for the front of the car. I did 35 in front, darker in the back and airblue for the windshield and sunroof. All ceramic. Should have gone a little darker in the front but oh well. Google airblue tint. it's awesome!

 

Just wanted to say thank you for the help, I was able to remove the back panel and get the water drops out with no problems. Looks much better!

 

i was just quoted $210 to tint all the windows + a 6" strip at the top of the winshield, any %tint i want, no difference in price, includes 5 YEAR WARRANTY

i have never had any tinting done before, i have always gone with factory tinted glass

is this a reasonable price?

i looked at 2 cars and an extended cab pickup truck the shop had just finished, no bubbles, no streaks, very nice work

AND they have done minis before, including countryman

thanks

scott

 

doesn't sound like a price for ceramic tint. If it's not ceramic it may end up turning purple after some time and that's never any fun to deal with.

 

That sounds about right, i paid 170 for mine. i've seen some places quote upper 200s so yours is right in between.

 

Yes that's a fine price if it's a good brand like Llumar and a shop with a proven track record. I recommend 35% if you want OEM look and the ability to see at night. Just did a 2002 Mazda Protege5 and 2005 Mazda3s both in ATR 35, and the 2010 MINI has had the same since new.

But they should offer a LIFETIME warranty.

http://www.llumar.com/pdf/en/LLumarAutoSpecsUS.pdf