Just changed the oil & filter on my Countryman S, 6 speed (which is important) for the first time. 1,000 miles on it . I used the OEM oil filter and 0w-40 Mobil 1.

The tools needed are:

8 mm allen wrench (I used a 3/8" drive 8mm bit) for the drain plug.
27 mm socket with a 12" extension for the oil filter housing.
10 mm wrench (or socket) to remove the bolt securing the coolant tank.
Oil drain pan.
Ramps or floor jack & safety stands.


With the engine warmed up:

1. Securely raise up the vehicle (I used a floor jack under the rear motor mount) and put safety stands on either side of the engine sub-cradle. Be sure to set the emergency parking brake.

2. Put chocks behind the rear wheels to prevent the vehicle from rolling.

3. If you have a 6 speed, put it in REVERSE. This moves the shift mechanism out of the way so you can easily remove the oil filter housing cap from the engine bay.

4. Slightly open the oil filler cap. Remove the oil pan drain plug with the 8mm allen. Make sure that the copper washer is removed as well. Interesting note....mine did not have a copper washer installed from the factory. No leakage at all, so there might have been some sort of sealant on the threads.

5. While the oil is draining, remove the 10mm bolt holding the coolant tank in place and pull the bottom of the coolant tank out to remove it from the rubber grommet. Then slightly pull up to remove the tank from the mounting tabs, then move the tank back a couple of inches (there is enough slack in the coolant hoses) then move it to the left (towards the motor) to allow access to the oil filter cap.

6. Put some paper towels under the oil filter cap to catch the little bit of oil that will dribble out when the cap is removed. Use the 27mm socket and 12" extension to remove the oil filter cap. The cap may slightly hang up on the coolant hose, so you might have to slightly move the hose around to clear the cap.

7. Clean the old oil out of the oil filter housing. Remove the old oil filter and o-ring from the cap. Clean the cap real well. Install the new o-ring on the cap and press the new oil filter onto the post in the cap. The oil filter will go on either way, there is no top or bottom.

8. Smear some oil on the new o-ring and insert the oil filter cap with new oil filter into the oil filter housing. Screw the cap on by hand so you don't accidentally cross-thread the cap, at least for a couple of turns. Tighten it up using the 27mm socket/extension. Torque it to 25Nm/18ft-lbs (or until snug). Note that there is no 'post' in the oil filter housing that the oil filter seats on to. Unusual. Bolt the coolant expansion tank back into place.

9. Put a new copper washer on the drain plug and install using the 8mm allen. Torque it to 30Nm (22ft/lbs). Clean up any spilled oil (on the ground or on the motor).

10. Lower the car to the ground.

11. Fill the motor with 4.5 quarts of 0w-40 Mobil 1.

12. Start her up and check for oil leaks. Turn the motor off.

13. After about 5 minutes, check the oil level on the hardest-to-read-dipstick in the world.

Took me about 45 minutes.

 

What, no video??!!


J/K! Thanks for the write up!

 

That oil change description was very helpful.

Have you considered installing a magnetic drain plug on the next change?

BTW, I did my first oil change at about 5,000 - before the scheduled interval. My MINI said it wanted service at 11,500 miles. Interesting.

 

I'll probably install a mag drain plug at my next oil change (at 5,000 miles). So far the on-board oil change interval is saying 15,000 miles.....no way am I going that long. I typically do 5,000 - 7,500 miles between oil & filter changes using synthetic oil.

 

I think I am going to put on a Fumoto valve during my first change at 1500 miles. Then I will do another at 7500, and then my freebie at 15K. I'll keep them coming at every 7500 miles. I really don't trust it at 15K intervals!!

 

Just be aware that the drain plug sits right on the bottom of the pan and is fully exposed.....would not want to run over/hit anything and snap it off.

 

Hmmm...Well, I thought I had seen a pic of the undercarriage and noticed a cover of sorts! But after a quick Google image search. . .I was mistaken! Shoot!

 

Add a Detroit Tuning skid plate and you won't have an issue. Not an impediment to oil changes, according to my SA - after two done here.

 

Interesting where you placed the floor jack. Do you have a photo of the rear motor mount and side of the engine sub-cradle? Or is it obvious what these are if I look under the car?

 

I'll see if I can get a pic. -- Thanks to 'ghamma' I used a couple of pics of his CM up on a lift to show where I placed the floor jack and safety stands.

But......the rear motor mount is located just behind the oil pan. It is a large cast aluminum piece connected to flat steel plate with a bolt head in the center. Place the jack on the steel plate. This is where you can jack the vehicle up. Do not jack on the aluminum! It should be obvious.

The jack stands were placed just aft of this area, on either side of the vehicle. Look for the tubular sub-frame running for/aft on both side of the vehicle (it is obvious as well). Just behind the jacking area there will be 2 very large headed bolts that are used to secure the sub frame to the body. This area is fairly flat. Place the jack stands there.

 

If you place a small stainless screw clamp next to the valve lever there is no way the Fumoto will open on impact. Done this for years on other vehicles. I was always worried that the lever would open, but this works great!

 

Here's a photo of that area, from when we installed my skid plate...
http://hammanet.smugmug.com/Cars/MIN...2387&k=J2R5XqT

 

Why wouldn't you place the stands at the jack points where you would normally jack up the car to change a tire?

 

I changed my oil today at the 8100 mile mark. I didn't lift the car, just reached under and the oil pan is right there, exposed like that (may have to order that Detroit Tuned skid plate).

Here are photos of the fine particles stuck to the magnetic tip of the oil drain plug I use (along with a couple of red fibers from my oil rag), and a visual comparison of 5000 mile old Mini oil vs new Mini oil.

 

I wondered this as well, will the floor jack "crush" the designated spot for jacking the car?

 

Yep. The lifting spot is just a pinch seam, about 1/8" thick and 3" or so long.

 

If you are worried you could use a block of wood to spread the force out.

 

And they thought I was paranoid when I took mine to MY mechanic, not theirs, to have the oil changed at 4k miles..... Thanks for the pic... You just confirmed my paranoia LOL

 

Had one more question... Only a little over 4 qts came out, but I put 4.4 quarts in. Oil level seems a bit high on the dipstick. How critical is the oil level - if I have an extra 100ml or so of oil in there, or should I try to drain a bit out?

 

A little bit over-full won't hurt. Where on the dip-stick is the oil level (assuming you can read that darn thing - whom ever designed this dipstick was a dipstick in my book).

 

Hard to tell. Looks like it's on the upper bulb past the small dot.

 

Filter location seems like ***** to get to!

 

Hey stevepsd thanks for the great wright up helped alot on first oil change on me CMS all4 didn't know the oil filter was on the top . Yeah screw that 15000 mile oil change from mini that is just dumb i changed mine at 5k and it was dark so they are crazy. Just wanted to say thanks

 

First oil change at 4000 miles, no particles whatsoever in drain pan or filter. Was able to use Inch and 1/16th socket on filter cap nut. Filter came with new drain plug crush washer and o-ring.










With the coolant tank out of the way you can just see the filter cap nut








The shiny semi-circle is about all you can see of the filter mounting. It helps to get both hands on the filter assembly to start the plastic threads by feel. The filter nut has plastic tangs that hold the socket so when you remove it, the socket,cap and element comes out in one piece.



$48, the next one's on MINI.

 

Nice!

I just did my wifes 2011 MCS at 6500 and had a couple tbsp's worth of oil still in the oil filter/housing. Darn hard to get rags down in there because of the space so I had some oil that dripped out.

Also a few small drops of coolant from the tank hose on the bottom.

Did you experience any of that?