New owner of this project mini.

2006 mcs s r52
110k on the dash.
Has a couple issues, biggest being a P0741 code and hard 1-2 shifts (cold or hot).
Plan on changing the trans fluid a couple times to see if it goes away.

Plasti dipped the wheels since they were all banged up.

 

Congratulations and welcome. Wow, that blue really does pop. Good looking MINI, Cheers!

 

Welcome to NAM! I'm not sure changing the fluid will solve your issue based on the fault code you have listed and the hard shifts. If the fluid has never been changed, then it may not be a bad idea to do it anyways. This NAM thread should be useful to you: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ode-p0741.html. Post #8 has his resolution. If you need anything or have any questions please do not hesitate to let me know. Enjoy your time here.

 

Congrats on your first MINI! You have many years and miles and grins ahead of you. Let us know if we can help!

Drive Hard. Drive Safe. Keep Grinning.

 

All the searching that I did for the p0741 code and I never came across that post...thank you!

We'll I got my rattling exhaust straightened out, outer ball joints replaced, changed oxygen sensor, and drained some tranny fluid out. Weird thing is, there was a decent amount that came out as soon as opened the drain(cold). I didn't measure it, but it was probably about a half quart. It was still coming out in a small steady stream when put the bolt back in.

I also tested the power steering fan and it is good. Then noticed that I am leaking power steering fluid from one of the lines coming from resivoior container its the conailer itself.

 

Glad I could help. As for power steering, make sure the fan is kicking on when the AC is turned on. Also, make sure the grille over the fan looks to be in good condition. Yes, check the power steering lines as they're known to leak as well. Check the return and suction lines, #1 and #11 on the diagram below.



#11 is the return line HERE
#1 is the suction hose HERE

If you need help with the transmission fluid change please be sure to check out this tech article here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...m#transmission.

 

Is it possible to tell what I am going to need from the picture of the power steering reservoir?


Then on further inspection I came across this wedged in a little space by the pulley!


Bolt that secures the motor to the motor mount...



Now I am also interested in getting a better diagnostic tool so that I can reset the transmission adaptations without going to a dealer. I would also want something that could do adaptations as well as being able to look into other vehicles such as Ford, Land Rover, Nissan, Toyota, etc...any suggestions? I was looking at the post on the Schwaben on ECS's website, but I do not see that it can reset the trans adaptation. I also see that foxwell offers other scanners for cheaper. I feel like I am missing something.

Thanks for the Help! (do vendors offer discounts on this forum?)

 

We typically send out discount codes when you order things from us from time to time. They're called webcertificates. As for a really good diagnostic scanner we use AutoEnginuity here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...pg8.htm#item32. Not inexpensive, but it does A LOT. There are lots of details and even an article showing what it does. You can access the transmission with that scan tool. There are other tools listed below as well.

As for the picture, it's hard to tell because it might be from other problem areas, but it does look like the return and suction line are coated in something. Inspect around the clamps shown in the image by the p/s res. and see if it looks like newer fluid is originating from that area. The cleaner the fluid, the closer to the problem area you are. You can clean up the area and then keep an eye on it for about a week to see where it may be originating from, but it may be #1 and #11 that I posted above.

 

Thank you!

I am obsessed with getting this car working perfect.

is it normal for the steering wheel to not recenter itself after going around turn while moving? it seems like I have to manually do it which seems odd.

 

Happy to help and I hear you. It's always a process bringing back a used vehicle to it's original state. Do you hear any groaning from the power steering? I do not believe the '06 R52 qualifies for the p/s recall (only '05), but I would check a few things. (You can also give your local dealer a shout and see what they have to say). Get under your MINI (turn on the AC) and make sure the p/s fan is kicking on. Make sure it turns freely. Also be sure to check the grille over the fan to make sure it's not damaged. If the fan is not working properly, it can lock up, preventing the cooling of the power steering pump, which in turn causes the pump to overheat and fail. Make sure the shaft isn't bent, preventing the fan from turning at all. This may not be your cause, but a problem area to check over. How is your p/s fluid level? If it's low, this can cause noises and issues. Since you do seem to have a p/s fluid leak, (assuming from the hoses, but check the pump as well), you could have low fluid causing some issues and should fill it up until the cause of the leak is repaired/fixed. Inspect the pump as well to make sure it's not leaking. I've posted some useful articles for you below with this and more information about the p/s fan and pump:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm

 

Definitely a Mini worth bringing back to spec. Body/paint and interior are in great shape. Nice find!

 

No groans from the pump. Fan works. So I did more searching and found some owners that complained of the same steering feeling that I have. Greased the joints on the steering shaft and it feels much better. However the wheel still does not go to center completly.

I also bit the bullet and ordered the schwaben scanner from ecs so that I can get to work on the trans.

 

Got my scanner(which looks lIke it has an issue with the screen)... but i got some info from it at least. Now I think I need a catalytic converter based off of the 2nd 02 sensor (which I just replaced because of a p0138 code).





Then looking at my power steering hoses I came across this...what I think may be the throttle cable?

 

Hmmm, someone has been chewing on rubber? Not sure what the wire for our "drive by wire" throttle looks like. That's a heavy duty looking cable big enough to be a ground wire.

 

Hi, These are fly by wire, so no cable for that!
I hope you get it sorted out quickly, so you can just enjoy how much fun these car really are!
Welcome to nam

 

Yeah...whatever the cable is was not chewed. It looks like it is wearing into a part on the steering rack.

 

New valve body from revmax fixed the shifting issue and new power steering lines fixed the leak. Now I just have to install the new control arm bushings. Very fun car to drive...can't wait to put the top down and a nice hot sunny day. Cold weather is driving me nuts.

 

The cable that the sheathing is worn off does goto the throttle body.

 

When it comes time to change the control arm bushings out there is a video on you tube by minimod that is pretty good, I used it as a reference when I did mine. I have a R53----I am not sure if there is a difference between the front end of the 53 and the 52. Is your tranny a auto or standard? When I did mine I did not drop the subframe but I did replace the 1/2 shafts as well as all bushings and ball joints----I had to pull the oil filter housing at the same time so I killed many birds with one stone. The problem you may have is getting the bolts out of the inner portion of the control arm----they are too long on the R53 and hit the 1/2 shaft before to are out. Using the pick fork method to remove the inner ball joints did not work for me---the fork hits the subframe before the ball joint releases, I wasted a lot of time modifying the fork trying to get around the subframe which did not work. I gave up and pulled the 1/2 shaft on the passenger side which as it turned out needed to be changed anyway. Before you tackle the control arm check everything around it for possible bad parts including ball joints---with 110,000 miles I will be surprised if the ball joints are good unless they have been done in the recent past. When you are done you will need a alignment.