NEED TO KNOW HOW TO REMOVE THE SPARK PLUG TUBE TO REPAIR SPARK PLUG THREADS

 

Looks like you need a special tool (according to Bentley Man.) for removal and install.
Someone out there may have had luck with out them, hopefully they can help. Or maybe
threads can be repaired with tubes in place? Good luck, sorry I can't help more.

p.s. turn caps lock off, some people might think your yelling.

 

I have the same problem with my R50. I tried the Mini dealer for the special (BMW)tool referenced, but was told that they don't carry special tools, and that the tubes were part of the head. They whould be happy to sell me a new head however. My local Snap-On guy thinks he has a slide hammer based tool for the job. As soon as he finds it in his inventory, I may be able to tell you if it works. In the meantime, I did see a video where a DUI guy removes a couple of tubes (probably not Mini) just by using pliers. New ones are only $15 from Mini Mania, so if Snap-On doesn't come through, I may go the brute force route. Let me know what you find out

 

Do not use heliciols !!! Use time serts,

www.timesert.com

Sold at NAPA etc...come in kit with drill bit thread taps and inserts with various depths. The tap is cool because you run it in the existing treads and it cuts the new ones right behind it so no drilling etc. Make sure you spray some carb cleaner in the whole and shop vac it out GOOD before you re-tap it. I used 1 ft fuel line duct taped to the shop vac hose to get in the cylinder. WANT IT DRY DO NOT LUBE so you can re-shop vac up the particles from inside the cylinders.
worked for me awesome! Bout $45 bucks! Use RED loctite to "lock in" the insert to the new threads and let set overnight!!!!
Good luck!
Mike

 

actually Napa had same type but brand name "save a thread" part number 5334-14 m14x1.25 and use the long insert it matched spark plugs depth.


Here ya go Azone.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ntifier=141511

Ps you don't need to pull the tube it works with the tube in just use socket and extension ***************

 

Ordered a Time Cert from my Snap-On guy, and a slide hammer puller for the tube, because I'm a bit worried about cross threading working down that tube. Started to remove the valve cover but found I needed a deep socket 8MM, and the fuel rail electrical harness does not move enough after releasing the two tabs to get to the two bolts in the front (contrary to Bentley manual) Seems to be held tight by the assembly on the driver side that it's attached to. Do I need to remove the air filter box etc. to get it loose?

 

by all means re-invent the wheel and don't listen to anything I said. I just did this.
It is simple if you follow the suggestions I made.

 

Used the Time Cert (unfortunately not cheap from Snap-On) but it did the trick, did not replace the tube, in fact it was a good guide (with tape on the tap to a snug fit within the tube) to insure a square cut. Retorqued three times at weekly intervals with some movement the first 2 times, but now stable. Penetration of the repaired spark plug hole is ~ 1/4 " deeper than the other holes but no evidence of valve interferrence. With miles @ 130K I'll probably do a major in a year or so anyway. Thanks to all for the advice.