So I went out to the junkyard this morning and checked out an other 05 r53 that came with cruise from the factory and it didn't have the switch or sensor on the clutch pedal. I got the switch from the brake light and it was a perfect fit for the clutch sensor. I got back to work and was able to fab up a quick little right angle tab so the sensor would have a trigger. I drilled and tapped a hole in the pedal to mount it instead of welding.

I'm not 100% sure that the post facelift cars like mine need this switch because the clutch already has a hall sensor on the master cylinder itself that prevents the car from starting in gear. It wouldn't be to far of a leap to assume that the sensor also operated the cruise cancellation. We'll see what happens Monday when I get it programed.

 

How is your retrofit going. I have been gathering info and parts.


I have the post facelift clutch switch part numbers. It is not a pressure switch but a magnetic switch. the pre facelift was a contact switch or a momentary. the same switch as the brake pedal.




Post facelift part #


Clutch switch - 35316765622


Clutch switch sensor plate - 61319231129


both these parts are on ECS with pictures. look them up you will see they are the same parts shown in the post facelift retrofit instructions.


these are the only parts I am missing. and then I need to install, and figure out how to program. I hope I can figure out NCS expert and do it myself so I can turn on a bunch of other functions at the same time.

 

The hall sensor part number you gave is the sensor that is attached to the master cylinder. You could probably get it to work but I'm not sure exactly how. I think the facelift cars with cruise from the factory just used the signal from the sensor on the master to deactivate the cruise. Not 100% sure on that though.


Well, I got cruise control now! I tested it out and it's all working properly; the cruise deactivated with the brake or the clutch pedal.

Without further adieu, here is everything I did to get the cruise working in my car including prices:

$75-Ebay retrofit kit
Included parts
-Retrofit harness (pn: 61120136522)
-Steering wheel controls and harness
-Blank plug for DCM
-Clock spring/ slip ring (whatever you want to call it)
$5-Salvage yard brake/ clutch switch
$Free- Homemade right angle bracket bolted to clutch pedal (or you can use early style fat looking pedal)
$140-Computer re-programming

Total (not including labor) - $220

 

how did you translate these colors?

also my clutch switch is already connected to something, i've got an 06 mini, gonna just leave that wire unhooked for now

I think this..

BL is blue
WS/RT/GE is white/red/yellow
RT/BL red/black
BR brown
GE/BR yellow/bronw

 

one more

A9 goes to the black 12 pin plug x10200 on fuse holder II

what the hell does that mean?

 

Attached is what I used to ID the wires.

Also you will need a second clutch switch to patch into the retrofit harness, if you leave it off and depress the clutch while under cruise it will throw a code, at least according to some other threads I read about the retrofit.

I kinda just ignored the table on that page, its more confusing to read it first. Just go through the rest of the instructions and it spells it out for you. That said A9 is a weird plug. A9 goes to the backside of the drivers side kick panel fuse box plug. The pins are numbered on the plug itself. Since your car is a facelift car like mine you might have to put the terminal in a different slot because pin 3 might be occupied (mine was). I can't remember the exact pin I used instead, I'll go bake and see if I still have my notes from when I did mine.

 

almost done, my pin 3 is occupied too, lemme know if you can remember what pin you used, and if it was already fused

 

so I did a little research and I think that the fusebox wire is only used to power the clutch sensor hall effect switch, I will test continuity between the clutch connector and that power wire tonight.

I'm probably going to skip it for now, the trick is to disable the cruise before you press the clutch or you'll get a implausible clutch check engine

and I think we can just tap into the existing switch signal wire


anyone know what size tool to remove all these damned ecu pins from the connector?

 

The ECU pins are probably the hardest part of that whole job, my back hurts just thinking bout bending over the car for hours. I used a miniature flathead screwdriver and a terminal pin removal tool like this to get the pins out.


And I bet you could just tap into the clutch switch and the occupied pin slot to get it to work, I still can't find what I did there.

 

I think I can skip the fusebox if I tap the existing hall sensor

I ordered that same set of tools

 

well **** my pin 101 on the ecu connector is already occupied too

 

anyone else have this problem? I'm stuck at this point

 

 

mine is finished,I had to use the german instructions for facelift cars, the pinouts are different

 

 

Hi - where would I find the German instructions for the facelift model? I have a 2005 R52.

Thank you

 

Here's the pinouts for facelift cars taken from the German installation guide. Let me know if you need more info, except for coding and messing up one of the DME pins I'm almost done with this project.

 

Ok so I have everything wired up and coded, but cruise control does not work.
The indicator light goes green, but it will not keep speed.
INPA tells me the clutch switch is active all the time, which would prevent cruise control to engage.

I've wired it up according to the facelift wiring diagram (had to change the pinout on the clutch switch, from the factory the wiring harness was made for preFL cars) and checked ground and +12V are ok.
I've now tried two clutch modules / sensors (part no: 61319231129 / FACET 7.1314) but with the same result: clutch switch always active

I've then tried to highjack the signal out from the brake switch (pins 3 and 4). For pre facelift cars it's the same type hall effect sensor on both clutch and brake. That got me a "clutch switch signal out of range" fault code in the DME. Also the brake switch has 2 circuits as a failsafe and if I tap into one of them, the are not in sync, also prohibiting cruise control activation.

Now I'm running out of ideas. Could try a preFL clutch switch, but I don't see how that would change things. I'd be ok with faking the switch too, as long as I can get cruise control working.
Hope someone can help!


Clutch switch wiring diagram for FL cars



brake switch wiring diagram

 

As usual with these things, I made a mistake in the 40 pin ECU connector. Also I used a preFL clutch switch / sensor plate combo and that did the trick!

 

Hi everyone, i retrofitted the cruise on my 05 R53 following the prefacelift pdf found online and it didn't work obviously cause i don' t have the pedal assembly with the sensor plate housing. Then i discovered that for facelift cars i had to use the clutch switch on the master cylinder so i bought one and it just blowed up cause i didn't change the cables as said in the facelift diagram for clutch switch ahahaha.
Then i corrected the cables but the car kept reading that the pedal was always pressed down and this prevents the cruise to work.
So after many days i found that in cars without cruise we have to swap the master cylinder with the version for cruise, in fact i have a master cylinder ending with 825 and my friend with oem cruise had 826, swapped the cylinder and cruise worked well.
Also in realoem in the retrofit section the retrofit kit is only in conjunction with Input cylinder clutch 21526774078
But obviously they forgot to write it in the pdf hahaha
I hope it will help someone else