R50/53 Redrum
#4
Nice. The Factory Aero on Chili red, Im in love.
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#6
Yea, the story is this MINI looks awesome. Congrats on up and running.
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#7
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Engine by Revolution MINI Works Bored to 77.5mm at 8.5:1 Capable of 350+ whp
RMW Custom Pistons
RMW Custom Rods with 3/8" ARP2000 Rod Bolts
Mahle F1 Style Rod Bearings
RMW Custom Oil Pan Baffle
New main bearings, oil pump, chain, chain tensioner, chain guides, rear main seal, head gasket, ARP head studs, and all gaskets.
SFI FluidGel Vibration Damper Crank Pulley
RMW Big Valve head with:
Black Nitrided 1.8mm Oversized Intake Valves
2.3mm Oversized Inconal Exhaust Valves
Supertech Valvetrain with Titanium Retainers and Beehive Springs
ARP Head Studs
RMW Custom Camshaft
We already had the RMW head and cam and it was all refreshed
RMW Custom Pistons
RMW Custom Rods with 3/8" ARP2000 Rod Bolts
Mahle F1 Style Rod Bearings
RMW Custom Oil Pan Baffle
New main bearings, oil pump, chain, chain tensioner, chain guides, rear main seal, head gasket, ARP head studs, and all gaskets.
SFI FluidGel Vibration Damper Crank Pulley
RMW Big Valve head with:
Black Nitrided 1.8mm Oversized Intake Valves
2.3mm Oversized Inconal Exhaust Valves
Supertech Valvetrain with Titanium Retainers and Beehive Springs
ARP Head Studs
RMW Custom Camshaft
We already had the RMW head and cam and it was all refreshed
Last edited by batrugger; 08-24-2015 at 07:51 AM.
#15
do you think if the compression was 9:1 it could live on 93 octane?,, I am saying for guys who daily drive and most of driving is not under boost to get better throttle response and when you hammer down for a short run it doesn't rattle the valves out of the head ,, did you dyno the engine ??
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do you think if the compression was 9:1 it could live on 93 octane?,, I am saying for guys who daily drive and most of driving is not under boost to get better throttle response and when you hammer down for a short run it doesn't rattle the valves out of the head ,, did you dyno the engine ??
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#21
In Socal the MINIs stay so clean.
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#22
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#25
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The car has been running great, but there were a few hiccups. After we did the first oil change we loaded it up and drove 200 miles to Vegas to go to Wuste and AMVIV and it ran awesome the whole way there other than the AC dying after running for about 15 secs. Nothing like a 400 mile road trip through the desert in June with no AC. We drove to the show and shine at AMVIV on Saturday from the Palace Station where Wuste was and when we got there it started running rough. After AMVIV we got it back and parked it at the Wuste show and it sat until Monday. I couldn't figure out the problem and there were no codes, but we needed our 200 mile break-in oil change so we took it to Kensington motors. He did not want to put 10w-40 Rotella in lol, but I insisted and they did the oil change, found a hole on the bottom of our GP intercooler which was causing a vacuum leak, and they said our AC compressor was dead. Couldn't fix the intercooler or the AC so we went ahead and hit the road. Once it got going on the freeway it was running great and we made it home without any issues except that it finally tripped a code for the pre-cat O2 sensor.
Since I was in an automotive course at the college, I took it into class on Wednesday with a stock intercooler to check out the sensors. I swapped it with a spare and it still ran badly. Hooked it up to a scanner and while it was idling it got really bad and the header started glowing red hot.It then tripped 4 codes for the O2 sensor heaters, cam sensor, and EGR. I shut it down and did some research and found thet the F03 fuse under the hood had popped and that it controlled all of those. Replaced the fuse and it popped again. I unplugged all of those sensors, replaced the fuse, and started plugging everything back in. It popped when I plugged in the pre-cat O2 sensor wire. Since we have the race header, there is an extension cable for the O2 sensors. I pulled the extension off, replaced the fuse, plugged the sensor in and the fuse didn't pop, problem solved. The vacuum leak caused the exhaust to run too hot and it slowly melted the extension cable first making it run roughly and then finally fusing all 4 wires together which popped the fuse.
Luckily I was able to fix the AC with a new clutch coil and I got the intercooler repaired at a local radiator shop. I installed a new extension for the O2 sensor and then fired it up. It sounded better, but still not right and since it was almost dark I noticed the header was glowing. I determined that my boost gauge was leaking so I disconnected it and plugged the line. It ran better and no glowing exhaust, but still seemed rough. The injector pigtails had insulation that had pulled away that I had taped up so I went ahead and ordered new pigtails. After installing those it has been doing great. We've almost got it to the 500 miles point after the last oil change which will be the next oil change for break-in. Big thanks to Jan and Colin for answering my texts and calls and helping me get it sorted. Here's a quick vid of how it sounds right now:
Since I was in an automotive course at the college, I took it into class on Wednesday with a stock intercooler to check out the sensors. I swapped it with a spare and it still ran badly. Hooked it up to a scanner and while it was idling it got really bad and the header started glowing red hot.It then tripped 4 codes for the O2 sensor heaters, cam sensor, and EGR. I shut it down and did some research and found thet the F03 fuse under the hood had popped and that it controlled all of those. Replaced the fuse and it popped again. I unplugged all of those sensors, replaced the fuse, and started plugging everything back in. It popped when I plugged in the pre-cat O2 sensor wire. Since we have the race header, there is an extension cable for the O2 sensors. I pulled the extension off, replaced the fuse, plugged the sensor in and the fuse didn't pop, problem solved. The vacuum leak caused the exhaust to run too hot and it slowly melted the extension cable first making it run roughly and then finally fusing all 4 wires together which popped the fuse.
Luckily I was able to fix the AC with a new clutch coil and I got the intercooler repaired at a local radiator shop. I installed a new extension for the O2 sensor and then fired it up. It sounded better, but still not right and since it was almost dark I noticed the header was glowing. I determined that my boost gauge was leaking so I disconnected it and plugged the line. It ran better and no glowing exhaust, but still seemed rough. The injector pigtails had insulation that had pulled away that I had taped up so I went ahead and ordered new pigtails. After installing those it has been doing great. We've almost got it to the 500 miles point after the last oil change which will be the next oil change for break-in. Big thanks to Jan and Colin for answering my texts and calls and helping me get it sorted. Here's a quick vid of how it sounds right now:
Last edited by batrugger; 07-30-2015 at 09:13 AM.