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R60/R61 Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for R60 AND R61 MINI Cooper and Cooper S MINIs.
So while i was replacing the mangled rear pad wear sensor on my CM ALL4, I sadly noticed that the outer CV boot must be leaking grease (right rear corner), as the whole inside part of the hub has caked on black sticky soot\grease.
Anyone ever replace this themselves? how difficult?
Quote from mini dealer, JUST for the shaft assembly is 850$ cdn lol, crack is what they are smoking, and for the replacement outer boot they want 238$, for a rubber boot and a few fittings, i can imagine with labor it'll be almost 2 grand.
What year is your MINI? If the axle isn't clicking/you don't hear any noise coming from it, you should be able to just reboot it. Otherwise, maybe search for a drivetrain shop local to you. I just get my axles rebuilt with OEM components from shops like these as OEM replacements are $400 and I wont go aftermarket. Or you can search for a used one on www.car-part.com.
No clicking, its a 2011. I know it looks super rusty and old, thats the result of living in salt loving quebec. I'm going to order a rebooting kit from bmw and try to do it myself.
So far, my job specific tool list is this:
CV boot clamp pliers
30mm socket for the axle nut
15 inch pry bar
Double density rubber\plastic mallet
18 inch breaker bar
Boot kit BMW
Brake cleaner to get rid of all the gunk\junk in the area
Tools look good for axle itself, but you will need to move the trailing arm out of the way and more tools are needed for that. The axle has to slide out of the differential towards the trailing arm, maybe 4 inches or so and the trailing arm will be in the way. It may be possible to remove the rear wheel bearing to gain enough room and slide the axle out of the differential. I have not done one personally. Late BMW's use this same style bearing and it may slide off the end of the axle. For parts, you may need the bolts 31126760203 (qty 4) and a seal 33107505601 (qty 1). The wheel bearing bolt is shown with a hex head, so nothing special there. If you have a good selection of basic hand tools you should be good to go.
Cheers, thanks for the heads up. Was ready to buy through your site as a token of appreciation for your help, but shipping is crazy!! Going to try and source these bolts\washer locally.
Cheers, thanks for the heads up. Was ready to buy through your site as a token of appreciation for your help, but shipping is crazy!! Going to try and source these bolts\washer locally.
My pleasure, glad I could help. Yes, shipping to your area is something we are working to better. We always suggestion adding in the comments box to ship products via USPS flat rate for better shipping charges. That typically stops the order from completing so that it can be adjusted and refunded accordingly. Otherwise, shouldn't be too difficult to find those parts in your area. While you're doing this fix, maybe think about doing a DIY with pictures for other Countryman owners out there. I didn't find much information out there on the internet for this particular fix so I'm sure others may appreciate it. Let me know how it goes and if you run into any snags please don't hesitate to contact me.
Is it common practice to replace the axle shaft seal every time the shaft is taken out? Also, i read somewhere that i might need an external torx socket for the brake assembly (will be doing a brakes refresh down the road), do you know what size it is by any chance?
Is it common practice to replace the axle shaft seal every time the shaft is taken out? Also, i read somewhere that i might need an external torx socket for the brake assembly (will be doing a brakes refresh down the road), do you know what size it is by any chance?
You don't have to, but it's one of those things that if you're in there you might as well. I'm not 100% sure on the torx socket honestly. I'm sorry. I can find out though if you'd like.