Drivetrain Got a problem with your BOV, ALTA wants to know about it!
#1
Got a problem with your BOV, ALTA wants to know about it!
We have been getting emails in regards to customers with OEM BOV(AKA BPV, or CRV, we will call it BOV from here on) failures. If there are legitimate customers with BOV's ripping, failing, sticking, or causing CEL's, I want to know about it! We have been working on a couple of solutions for this and I want to get a better idea what and why this is happening. I want to hear all the horror stories! Post up your pics and stories here so we can all see if this is a widespread problem.
If you can make sure and post up your pics along with how it failed, and what modifications were done to the car, that would be great! Basically give us the most info you can so we can to help design a new part for this. Depending on the responses we get, I may be able to get Jeff to take some pics of the couple designs we are testing on! Also feel free to email me if you would rather do that. Chris.cone@altaperformance.com.
If you can make sure and post up your pics along with how it failed, and what modifications were done to the car, that would be great! Basically give us the most info you can so we can to help design a new part for this. Depending on the responses we get, I may be able to get Jeff to take some pics of the couple designs we are testing on! Also feel free to email me if you would rather do that. Chris.cone@altaperformance.com.
Last edited by ALTA_Chris; 06-29-2011 at 03:09 PM.
#2
Back in the day when I had a style of BOV practically identical to yours my biggest gripe was the occasional P115D code. This came up as a MAF code but I think it had to do with data not correlating correctly with the MAP sensor, MAF sensor, and what the ECU wanted to see boost-wise in certain conditions. For example, if the BOV vented when the diverter valve wasn't commanded to be opened by the ECU, the P115D code would populate.
'09 R56 S
DDM Race Intake System
Alta boost tubes at the time
Helix Intercooler
That's all the other mods I have in the intake air stream.
It turns out this was about the OEM diverter valve so anyways...
'09 R56 S
DDM Race Intake System
Alta boost tubes at the time
Helix Intercooler
That's all the other mods I have in the intake air stream.
It turns out this was about the OEM diverter valve so anyways...
Last edited by countryboyshane; 06-30-2011 at 09:29 AM.
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We have been getting emails in regards to customers with OEM BOV(AKA BPV, or CRV, we will call it BOV from here on) failures. If there are legitimate customers with BOV's ripping, failing, sticking, or causing CEL's, I want to know about it! We have been working on a couple of solutions for this and I want to get a better idea what and why this is happening. I want to hear all the horror stories! Post up your pics and stories here so we can all see if this is a widespread problem.
If you can make sure and post up your pics along with how it failed, and what modifications were done to the car, that would be great! Basically give us the most info you can so we can to help design a new part for this. Depending on the responses we get, I may be able to get Jeff to take some pics of the couple designs we are testing on! Also feel free to email me if you would rather do that. Chris.cone@altaperformance.com.
If you can make sure and post up your pics along with how it failed, and what modifications were done to the car, that would be great! Basically give us the most info you can so we can to help design a new part for this. Depending on the responses we get, I may be able to get Jeff to take some pics of the couple designs we are testing on! Also feel free to email me if you would rather do that. Chris.cone@altaperformance.com.
Hi Chris--I've noticed CEL issues with rapid on an then off the throttle. Seems to mostly happen at very high boost levels (25+) and is very intermittent. Also I have the "stiffy" installed. No torn boot. I'm wondering if the plunger is getting stuck in the coil??
Ray
#11
I went to the track on Saturday as the first time with my MINI. My MINI is a 2009 Cooper S with JCW Engine Tuning Kit, the OEM Hard Plastic Intake Tube from JCW Factory Car, J1 Automotive UK Intake Filter, ARC Turbo Heat Shield, and also the OEM Diverter Valve from the JCW Factory car. Everything were fine at the track, except I forgot to turn off the DSC in the first few laps. I even drove it for almost 300 miles after that running at the track. When I went out this morning, the car was fine and the diverter valve was still working as I could still hear the psssh while I downshift. But after parking it under the sun for a while, I got a CEL as I started the car, so I took it to my friend's shop down the street to scan the error code. My friend told me the error code relates to the diverter valve and I should take it back to the dealer since they were the ones who installed it. As I was driving home after, the car was driving very un-smoothly. It also feels like it loses boost between gear shift. I booked an appointment with the dealer for next Wednesday. So I won't have anymore details until then. In the meantime, is it still okay for me to drive my car? Any pre-caution I should take? Please advise. Thanks!
#12
I went to the track on Saturday as the first time with my MINI. My MINI is a 2009 Cooper S with JCW Engine Tuning Kit, the OEM Hard Plastic Intake Tube from JCW Factory Car, J1 Automotive UK Intake Filter, ARC Turbo Heat Shield, and also the OEM Diverter Valve from the JCW Factory car. Everything were fine at the track, except I forgot to turn off the DSC in the first few laps. I even drove it for almost 300 miles after that running at the track. When I went out this morning, the car was fine and the diverter valve was still working as I could still hear the psssh while I downshift. But after parking it under the sun for a while, I got a CEL as I started the car, so I took it to my friend's shop down the street to scan the error code. My friend told me the error code relates to the diverter valve and I should take it back to the dealer since they were the ones who installed it. As I was driving home after, the car was driving very un-smoothly. It also feels like it loses boost between gear shift. I booked an appointment with the dealer for next Wednesday. So I won't have anymore details until then. In the meantime, is it still okay for me to drive my car? Any pre-caution I should take? Please advise. Thanks!
#14
Chris @ Alta, I don't quite know what you might have in mind for a D/V upgrade but I will share a little I have recently discovered.
I replaced my stock D/V, absolutely having no problems, with the VAG 710D, which would give yellow engine lights during certain shifting conditions + trouble codes to boot, also it leaked, but it would sure shift nice and smooth.
I changed to a Forge FM207, and it did all I expected the vag to do and more, excellant response, smooth shifting, no diaphragms to fail.
It was a little spendy, about $220, but I wouldn't trade it for twice the amount.
If you guys can come up with something similar, something more integrated (solenoid housing like the stocker, somewhat more inexpensive $150 - $175) you can retire to the Bahamas. Regards.
I replaced my stock D/V, absolutely having no problems, with the VAG 710D, which would give yellow engine lights during certain shifting conditions + trouble codes to boot, also it leaked, but it would sure shift nice and smooth.
I changed to a Forge FM207, and it did all I expected the vag to do and more, excellant response, smooth shifting, no diaphragms to fail.
It was a little spendy, about $220, but I wouldn't trade it for twice the amount.
If you guys can come up with something similar, something more integrated (solenoid housing like the stocker, somewhat more inexpensive $150 - $175) you can retire to the Bahamas. Regards.
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I went to the track on Saturday as the first time with my MINI. My MINI is a 2009 Cooper S with JCW Engine Tuning Kit, the OEM Hard Plastic Intake Tube from JCW Factory Car, J1 Automotive UK Intake Filter, ARC Turbo Heat Shield, and also the OEM Diverter Valve from the JCW Factory car. Everything were fine at the track, except I forgot to turn off the DSC in the first few laps. I even drove it for almost 300 miles after that running at the track. When I went out this morning, the car was fine and the diverter valve was still working as I could still hear the psssh while I downshift. But after parking it under the sun for a while, I got a CEL as I started the car, so I took it to my friend's shop down the street to scan the error code. My friend told me the error code relates to the diverter valve and I should take it back to the dealer since they were the ones who installed it. As I was driving home after, the car was driving very un-smoothly. It also feels like it loses boost between gear shift. I booked an appointment with the dealer for next Wednesday. So I won't have anymore details until then. In the meantime, is it still okay for me to drive my car? Any pre-caution I should take? Please advise. Thanks!
#20
Ray,
We've had a customer that had the same issue with our spring installed, we had him try the stock spring and it did the same thing. He also checked the BOV and it didn't have any tears either. That's something we're trying to figure out right now. That's another reason for this thread!
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Hi,
I had problems that were very hard to diagnose and fix.
Read the thread here
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t-problem.html
Bottom line is a I had a faulty diverter valve and a faulty temperature / pressure sensor.
Replacing the faulty diverter valve only partially fixed the problem. It was only completely fixed when I replaced the sensor as well.
I think it is too coincidental that the two parts apparrently failed at the same time. There must be some connection.
Car now has a forge valve and has been running perfectly on the track.
Robbo
I had problems that were very hard to diagnose and fix.
Read the thread here
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t-problem.html
Bottom line is a I had a faulty diverter valve and a faulty temperature / pressure sensor.
Replacing the faulty diverter valve only partially fixed the problem. It was only completely fixed when I replaced the sensor as well.
I think it is too coincidental that the two parts apparrently failed at the same time. There must be some connection.
Car now has a forge valve and has been running perfectly on the track.
Robbo
#24
Hi,
I had problems that were very hard to diagnose and fix.
Read the thread here
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t-problem.html
Bottom line is a I had a faulty diverter valve and a faulty temperature / pressure sensor.
Replacing the faulty diverter valve only partially fixed the problem. It was only completely fixed when I replaced the sensor as well.
I think it is too coincidental that the two parts apparrently failed at the same time. There must be some connection.
Car now has a forge valve and has been running perfectly on the track.
Robbo
I had problems that were very hard to diagnose and fix.
Read the thread here
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t-problem.html
Bottom line is a I had a faulty diverter valve and a faulty temperature / pressure sensor.
Replacing the faulty diverter valve only partially fixed the problem. It was only completely fixed when I replaced the sensor as well.
I think it is too coincidental that the two parts apparrently failed at the same time. There must be some connection.
Car now has a forge valve and has been running perfectly on the track.
Robbo
#25
Robbo