Soft brake pedal F56
Soft brake pedal F56
Just had the pleasure of doing two brake flushes (every two years for most). Did one pedal has there but was too low or hit it twice and it's there. Found out need to cycle the DSC module. I did for each wheel. I work at a Germany car dealer and had the computer to do this. Also the pressure bleeder too. Not a garage job without the right tools. Motor on.
Interesting- can you clarify a bit? You mean the car computer did it (assuming you set it in some maintenance mode)? Or the shop has some kind of computerized flushing system? What are the right tools? =)
Sounds like brake flush should be done at a shop very familiar with minis, if not at a dealer.
Sounds like brake flush should be done at a shop very familiar with minis, if not at a dealer.
I opened the parts department here. This was BMW and now we do Porsche cars. I was hired to open and manage the parts department. We have an ISTA computer from BMW days. I have the knowledge to do all sorts of things related to scan, code reading. I had to get into the DCS module and cycle it when doing the second flush. We have a pressure bleeder here. Just thought some would like to know if they think a brake flush is a weekend job for the garage . It is with the correct tools. Not any maintenance mode just being able to talk to the control unit.
Ok interesting. Well, I'll probably keep an eye out for a brake flush coupon from a dealer then =) I had my fluid flushed by a local indy shop, and I'm sure he just did it the old fashioned way. Pedal feel is very 'meh', but it's never gone to the floor.
Interesting information on the brake bleed. So, I flushed my brake fluid before my track day in 2018 to get some 'better' fluid in as a precaution. I used the same vacuum bleeder I have used for 20+ years and had no issues...pedal felt fine along with a successful track day. No need for any DCS cycling or other powered manipulation. For my last 'free' service visit last winter, the dealer did a complementary brake fluid flush and didn't report any issues on their end. I am not sure any 'special' is really required for performing a brake fluid flush, but it likely depends on the method. YMMV.
I still scratch my head every time I hear of someone having issues bleeding their brakes and getting air into the ABS/TC/DSC unit. The only way air can get into the brake lines is either through the master cylinder reservoir or bleed screw on the calipers, as the rest of the system is sealed. Having diagnostic tools that can cycle the ABS/TC/DSC unit are only needed if something got fouled up during the bleed, IMHO.
I started my automotive maintenance experience when I was ~6 years old helping my Dad out in the garage and at his HVAC business where he maintained a fleet of ~14 trucks. We used to 'pedal bleed' the systems back in the day, which was simply a slow and tedious process that required 2 people, 1 to pump the brake pedal and 1 to operate the bleed valve. I was typically relegated to pumping the pedal...ugghh. I remember when 'speed bleeders' were introduced, but local guys that I know had used them complained that they would occasionally let some air back into the caliper when they aged a bit and/or were not perfectly clean, so I never put them on my vehicles.
In my early 20's (~30 years ago) I was introduced to a hand vacuum pump gun by a friend's Dad. Holy cow was that a revelation on bleeding brakes by yourself and quick on top of it. All you needed to do was pay attention to how much fluid you pulled through the system and not run the reservoir dry and suck air in. Since the first step is to suck out the old fluid in the reservoir, you learn what that capacity is and can easily ensure you don't pull through any more than that before re-topping off the reservoir with additional fluid. I feel vacuum bleeding has the least opportunity for letting air into the system. Pressure bleeding can certainly be 'faster' but that also means that you can push more air into the system if you don't pay close attention to the fluid level in the reservoir. I have flushed/bleed the brake systems on over a dozen ABS/TC/DCS vehicles over the years and never had an issue with air getting into the systems. It all comes down to being careful and paying attention to details when you bleed your brakes...just as with any vehicle maintenance you do.
My current vacuum pump system of choice is the Mityvac Silverline Elite Automotive Kit (#8500) that you can get for ~$63...money well spent and a great tool for both vacuum and pressure testing various things around the car and house for that fact.
I started my automotive maintenance experience when I was ~6 years old helping my Dad out in the garage and at his HVAC business where he maintained a fleet of ~14 trucks. We used to 'pedal bleed' the systems back in the day, which was simply a slow and tedious process that required 2 people, 1 to pump the brake pedal and 1 to operate the bleed valve. I was typically relegated to pumping the pedal...ugghh. I remember when 'speed bleeders' were introduced, but local guys that I know had used them complained that they would occasionally let some air back into the caliper when they aged a bit and/or were not perfectly clean, so I never put them on my vehicles.
In my early 20's (~30 years ago) I was introduced to a hand vacuum pump gun by a friend's Dad. Holy cow was that a revelation on bleeding brakes by yourself and quick on top of it. All you needed to do was pay attention to how much fluid you pulled through the system and not run the reservoir dry and suck air in. Since the first step is to suck out the old fluid in the reservoir, you learn what that capacity is and can easily ensure you don't pull through any more than that before re-topping off the reservoir with additional fluid. I feel vacuum bleeding has the least opportunity for letting air into the system. Pressure bleeding can certainly be 'faster' but that also means that you can push more air into the system if you don't pay close attention to the fluid level in the reservoir. I have flushed/bleed the brake systems on over a dozen ABS/TC/DCS vehicles over the years and never had an issue with air getting into the systems. It all comes down to being careful and paying attention to details when you bleed your brakes...just as with any vehicle maintenance you do.
My current vacuum pump system of choice is the Mityvac Silverline Elite Automotive Kit (#8500) that you can get for ~$63...money well spent and a great tool for both vacuum and pressure testing various things around the car and house for that fact.
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