.......is needed to do a complete "flush" of the MINI system?

 

I buy 1L cans of Ate Blue and Ate Typ 200 and alternate... takes ~1/2 a liter for a complete flush... that's doing it once 'til pure blue or gold, letting it set 15 minutes and repeating. When going from blue to gold, I almost always get a tinge of blue on the second bleed - I go a bit past that and stop.

My Motive Products bleeder doesn't seem to work as well with much less than 1/3 liter in it...

 

Thank you sir. Got 1 litre of each and was going to flush system this weekend with new pad and rotor install and wanted to make sure I had enough to do the job.

 

OK.....next question. After reading the shop manual, I am wondering if I should leave the bleeding to the MINI dealer. It appears that you should use the MINI service computer to assist in the bleeding of the brakes. I assume it is because of the ABS system. IS this something I should attempt by myself? I have always done my own brake service on my other cars, so I am comfortable doing it if I can.

 

As long as you don't let air into the system by letting the M/C reservoir go dry, there will be no problems. If you do go dry...

 

True. If you really were to pump a caliper maybe a dozen times you might find some problems. A little common sense goes a long way. Top it off, squirt one nipple three times, do the same on the others. If you want to flush them, personally I just open a nipple and let it drian into a pan. Watch the reservior level go down over time (like 20m) and keep topping it off. Do each corner and you've flushed out all the old.

 

Todd,

So gravity will work? I've always used a vacuum system. I've always wondered about hurting components by suck the fluid out - or is this a different sort of subject?

 

Anyone have experience with the speed bleeders (one way valves) like Pilo sells?

 

Scott,

The Motive Products bleeder mentioned above makes bleeding the brakes a one man job. That's what I use and it couldn't be easier. A full flush shouldn't quite use the full liter and changing colors does help you know when you've got all of the old fluid out. Good luck with your project.

Dan

 

Gravity works fine. Air is always purged to the top of the caliper through the nipple anyhow. (assuming you haven't run the res dry) It cannot suck air in unless you depress the pedal and let it return without the nipple closed. This is where most folks mess up- it can then reverse the flow and suck back. If you really feel the need you can do a couple of pump/squirts on each one for good measure in the end.

Sucking and pressure systems have been shown to disturb or airate (sp?) fluid at times. Why bother?

FWIW; I don't own any bleeding tool but a bottle with a hose on it. (Pegasus Auto Racing Supply model is quite nice)

 

Yes, my wife is typical my partner during the bleeding process...and it's actual like giving blood No matter how many times I decribe the pedal action, she lets up and allows air to get into the caliper

 

Thanks for the help guys! It is reassuring to know that my tried and true system is still applicable. Wish me luck, am going to change my rotors and pads tomorrow.

 

Well Scott....how did it go?

 

they can put the ABS pump in service mode so you can bleed it. If you're really paranoid, after the first flush, go drive and stand on the brakes so the ABS activates a few times.

Rinse

Repeat...

Oh, that's shampoo, but you get the idea....

Matt

 

Well the parts went in ok. But I am not sure about the bedding in I did. The brakes seem to take a bit more pressure to get to the same "grip" level as the stock ones. It has been deathly cold here, so I am hoping it is just the cold weather. I am going to flush the fluid this weekend and see if that helps.