Best wheel size for a cooper s r53
#26
#27
I am thinking to get a new set of wheels, and tires.
215/50/16 or (225/50/16) with 15mm offset 16 x 8 wheels
Will run continental DWS tires
Will they fit on stock setting?
I just install JCW suspension kit , with IRE non-adjust camber plate on the front.
The rear is stock setting.
Any common? or suggestion?
Thanks
215/50/16 or (225/50/16) with 15mm offset 16 x 8 wheels
Will run continental DWS tires
Will they fit on stock setting?
I just install JCW suspension kit , with IRE non-adjust camber plate on the front.
The rear is stock setting.
Any common? or suggestion?
Thanks
#28
I am thinking to get a new set of wheels, and tires.
215/50/16 or (225/50/16) with 15mm offset 16 x 8 wheels
Will run continental DWS tires
Will they fit on stock setting?
I just install JCW suspension kit , with IRE non-adjust camber plate on the front.
The rear is stock setting.
Any common? or suggestion?
Thanks
215/50/16 or (225/50/16) with 15mm offset 16 x 8 wheels
Will run continental DWS tires
Will they fit on stock setting?
I just install JCW suspension kit , with IRE non-adjust camber plate on the front.
The rear is stock setting.
Any common? or suggestion?
Thanks
225/50-16 is taller than OEM at 24.9" and without negative camber adjustment you may have some risk of rubbing or the tires sticking out and not being flush with the wheel arches.
There are more tires to choose from in this size, depending on your needs a good example would be Continental ExtremeContact DWS $112 each but you'll have to look at your budget.
Compared to OEM 16" wheels, the 16x8" et15 is OK, inside clearance to suspension parts is fine, but the wheel and tire will stick out 1.7" or 43mm more. About 1" out tends to be flush so having some negative camber helps, the more adjustable the more control you have.
The alternative is to use a more narrow tire on the wide rims, tire stretching can be done safely for street use and you don't need to be extreme to get it to fit and give you more clearance. However a stretched tire may look best when you can also adjust ride height so that the tire tread edge looks tightly tucked under the arch.
Given that you have a JCW suspension, there may be a small wheel gap.
Last edited by minihune; 11-12-2013 at 10:43 AM.
#30
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Near Portland, OR, USA
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I think he meant they're
Rota Grid 16x8 et 20.
Edit: here's a link http://www.aspecwheels.net/index.php?route=product/category&path=20_27_1000_2025_2026
I've never done business with them though. Don't forget to get hubcentric rings, I think they're super important to get the hub bore sizes to match, and fit each other like a glove... The weight of the car should be carried properly on the hub center, not the lug nuts.
Last edited by AlexQS; 03-19-2015 at 10:48 PM.
#31
I have the same question.
Any thoughts?
#32
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Near Portland, OR, USA
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If I had the money to do it right, so it didn't look stupid, I'd like an ET amount that brings the sidewall out to be flush with the outside of the wheel arch, with just a little tuck, but that also puts more stress on wheel bearings.
All that aside, in my opinion, 17x8.5 is too big and HEAVY. I replaced my factory wheels with Einkie RPF1. They are the same size as factory 17" wheels (17x7 I think), with 205 45 17, it seems nearly impossible to break them loose on dry pavement, and I push the corners pretty hard too. If there's any added grip to having a wider wheel, you'd never be able to realize it on the street. The only thing I ever wish for would be a slightly quicker "turn in", but as far as I know the only way to do that is to change the caster angle, and the only way to adjust that in a mini is to get a lower control arm bushing that has the hole slightly off center, there a PIA to change too, but someone makes them, ALTA I think.
The Einkies I mention are 10 pounds lighter than the factory 17" wheels (that's a huge difference), which makes the suspension work better, acceleration and deceleration take less effort. It's barely a noticeable difference for a street car. That 10 pounds per wheel savings would only amount to tenths of seconds in a 1/4 mile drag race, but removing that much mass from the rotating parts of the drivetrain is much like taking 150 pounds out of the trunk! Barely noticeable, but it's there.
They have just a little more or less ET too, again barely noticeable, but the stance looks a little cooler, and I like it! Congrats if you read through all of my ramblings,.. Hope it was helpful.
#33
I did read it, and it was helpful.
Ya, seems a little wide. My instinct says no, but really you need more info to know. You need the ET of the wheel, and the tire size you'll use. Find an online wheel calculator too. The thing is, it will likely run into the strut in the inside, the clearance is pretty tight there. So with a different ET you can move the offset more to the outside, but then you could run into the fender, depending on the tire size. Some people do some suspension work to add negative camber, which makes the top of the wheel fit in under the arches at an angle, but it also makes the tire run mostly with the inside wearing unevenly. A race car might have negative two degrees of camber, but theres not many opportunities to push hard enough on the street ti use that. Very young people really like the look though.
If I had the money to do it right, so it didn't look stupid, I'd like an ET amount that brings the sidewall out to be flush with the outside of the wheel arch, with just a little tuck, but that also puts more stress on wheel bearings.
All that aside, in my opinion, 17x8.5 is too big and HEAVY. I replaced my factory wheels with Einkie RPF1. They are the same size as factory 17" wheels (17x7 I think), with 205 45 17, it seems nearly impossible to break them loose on dry pavement, and I push the corners pretty hard too. If there's any added grip to having a wider wheel, you'd never be able to realize it on the street. The only thing I ever wish for would be a slightly quicker "turn in", but as far as I know the only way to do that is to change the caster angle, and the only way to adjust that in a mini is to get a lower control arm bushing that has the hole slightly off center, there a PIA to change too, but someone makes them, ALTA I think.
The Einkies I mention are 10 pounds lighter than the factory 17" wheels (that's a huge difference), which makes the suspension work better, acceleration and deceleration take less effort. It's barely a noticeable difference for a street car. That 10 pounds per wheel savings would only amount to tenths of seconds in a 1/4 mile drag race, but removing that much mass from the rotating parts of the drivetrain is much like taking 150 pounds out of the trunk! Barely noticeable, but it's there.
They have just a little more or less ET too, again barely noticeable, but the stance looks a little cooler, and I like it! Congrats if you read through all of my ramblings,.. Hope it was helpful.
If I had the money to do it right, so it didn't look stupid, I'd like an ET amount that brings the sidewall out to be flush with the outside of the wheel arch, with just a little tuck, but that also puts more stress on wheel bearings.
All that aside, in my opinion, 17x8.5 is too big and HEAVY. I replaced my factory wheels with Einkie RPF1. They are the same size as factory 17" wheels (17x7 I think), with 205 45 17, it seems nearly impossible to break them loose on dry pavement, and I push the corners pretty hard too. If there's any added grip to having a wider wheel, you'd never be able to realize it on the street. The only thing I ever wish for would be a slightly quicker "turn in", but as far as I know the only way to do that is to change the caster angle, and the only way to adjust that in a mini is to get a lower control arm bushing that has the hole slightly off center, there a PIA to change too, but someone makes them, ALTA I think.
The Einkies I mention are 10 pounds lighter than the factory 17" wheels (that's a huge difference), which makes the suspension work better, acceleration and deceleration take less effort. It's barely a noticeable difference for a street car. That 10 pounds per wheel savings would only amount to tenths of seconds in a 1/4 mile drag race, but removing that much mass from the rotating parts of the drivetrain is much like taking 150 pounds out of the trunk! Barely noticeable, but it's there.
They have just a little more or less ET too, again barely noticeable, but the stance looks a little cooler, and I like it! Congrats if you read through all of my ramblings,.. Hope it was helpful.
#34
17x8.25" might seem good but it really isn't unless you have a wide fender kit or wheel arch flares to accomodate the extra extra wide tire.
It is an option for those that want the slammed wide wheel narrow stretched tire look but the wheels will poke out quite a bit or slant inward with lots of negative camber to tuck in the shoulders of the tire back into the wheel well. It isn't too good for handling or tread wear but it is popular with young owners.
For most owners the best wheel tire combination is the one that fits without rubbing and gives the best handling and performance as required by the owner on roads they drive on. Part of that equation is a wheel that is well fitted to the tire size.
17x7" and 205/45-17 are OEM sizes. Up to 17x8" still fits 215/45-17 tires which will work with stock suspension but might rub with a lowered suspension (depends how much drop).
Wider than 8" wheels usually need 235/40-17 (tire diameter 24.3") or 245/40-17 (tire diameter 24.7"). Stock tire diameter is about 24.3". In addition the 40 series sidewall is very short and stiff which translates to a harsher ride quality but also better more responsive handling. You definitely get more weight with a wide wheel and tire and likely increase cost, especially the wheels.
Tire and wheel selection choices are reduced with extra wide sizes, there is just less demand.
It is an option for those that want the slammed wide wheel narrow stretched tire look but the wheels will poke out quite a bit or slant inward with lots of negative camber to tuck in the shoulders of the tire back into the wheel well. It isn't too good for handling or tread wear but it is popular with young owners.
For most owners the best wheel tire combination is the one that fits without rubbing and gives the best handling and performance as required by the owner on roads they drive on. Part of that equation is a wheel that is well fitted to the tire size.
17x7" and 205/45-17 are OEM sizes. Up to 17x8" still fits 215/45-17 tires which will work with stock suspension but might rub with a lowered suspension (depends how much drop).
Wider than 8" wheels usually need 235/40-17 (tire diameter 24.3") or 245/40-17 (tire diameter 24.7"). Stock tire diameter is about 24.3". In addition the 40 series sidewall is very short and stiff which translates to a harsher ride quality but also better more responsive handling. You definitely get more weight with a wide wheel and tire and likely increase cost, especially the wheels.
Tire and wheel selection choices are reduced with extra wide sizes, there is just less demand.
#35
Hello there MINI enthusiast !
After a decade asking myself why I haven't already a mini of mine, I finally bought one ! And what a great little car
I'm here today to ask you guys something, I live in France and the laws are a pain in the a**.
I want to change my wheels to something more "MINI" than the stock 17"x7 ET48 but it's complicated to choose from there since I don't have much information about the car.
The thing is that in France, your wheels and tyres can't stick out the body of the car, they have to be aligned with the fender and the tyre diameter has to be +/- 3% the same as the stock tyre size...
I want to go from 17x7 to 16x8 and I love the looks of the racing wheels Rota grid V or Japan racing JR 12 style. but I don't know if I can put those on my car without them to stick out...
Can someone help me with that ? I have made a lot of calc but haven't found any answers.
After a decade asking myself why I haven't already a mini of mine, I finally bought one ! And what a great little car
I'm here today to ask you guys something, I live in France and the laws are a pain in the a**.
I want to change my wheels to something more "MINI" than the stock 17"x7 ET48 but it's complicated to choose from there since I don't have much information about the car.
The thing is that in France, your wheels and tyres can't stick out the body of the car, they have to be aligned with the fender and the tyre diameter has to be +/- 3% the same as the stock tyre size...
I want to go from 17x7 to 16x8 and I love the looks of the racing wheels Rota grid V or Japan racing JR 12 style. but I don't know if I can put those on my car without them to stick out...
Can someone help me with that ? I have made a lot of calc but haven't found any answers.
#36
#38
#39
17" Tenzo-R Type M
Just bought my first MINI, a 2006 S, which has 17" Tenzo-R M black wheels. Former owner did a lot of highway commuting. My use will be 95% street fun use (everything from really good pavement to back roads) with some light tracking eventually (nothing serious). I just got the car so no real impression yet or history to compare to (former cars were RX7s so a lot to live up to). No plans to change anything immediately but from what I've read, should I consider switching to light 16s at some point in the future? What's the lowest profile/widest tires these wheel wells will handle without rubbing?
#40
#41
Just bought my first MINI, a 2006 S, which has 17" Tenzo-R M black wheels. Former owner did a lot of highway commuting. My use will be 95% street fun use (everything from really good pavement to back roads) with some light tracking eventually (nothing serious). I just got the car so no real impression yet or history to compare to (former cars were RX7s so a lot to live up to). No plans to change anything immediately but from what I've read, should I consider switching to light 16s at some point in the future? What's the lowest profile/widest tires these wheel wells will handle without rubbing?
#42
What suspension? OEM or dropped. Lowered means much less clearance and risk of rubbing especially in back
What front brakes? Base caliper or JCW (larger and limits smaller wheels that fit)
What is your intended use? Mostly street some spirited driving? Any autocross or high performance driving school?
What is your budget for wheels and for tires if needed?
What is your current wheel and tire setup and how is it working or not working for you?
Do you get cold weather or do you have snow tires for winter?
Many sizes of wheels and tires will fit the R53 Cooper S but each is different for all of the above. The clearer your needs and goals are the better fit can be made when choosing. Budget is a big concern.
15" wheels are possible, but need base front calipers not JCW or any big brake upgrade although some smaller wilwood brakes will fit some wheels. OEM is 15x5.5" but aftermarket wheels are easily found in 15x7". Lower cost and less weight are pluses but tire sizes are more limited to racing or autocross tires and All Season tires. The best Max Summer tires need larger wheels. For performance Ultra High Performance All Season and for street comfort- Grand Touring All Season tires are good choices for three season use (not heavy snow), more tread wear, lower noise and smoother ride. Sizes favor taller sidewalls (60 to 65 series) so softer ride and less sharp handling but OK for daily driver. No runflats in this wheel size.
Runflats if needed fit 16", 17" and 18" wheel sizes and offer safety if getting flat in bad weather, at night, or on busy roads when you don't want to stop. But ride quality is firm and not as comfortable. Tire selection is limited but OK. Otherwise plan ahead in case of a flat tire with non runflats.
16" wheels are OK, OEM is 16x6.5" and it's common to find good wheel selection in 16x7" with good prices and relatively lower weight about 15-16 lbs each. This allows tire sizes that are roughly 50-55 series so some comfort but some racing tires come in 45 series sidewalls. Some wheels will fit over JCW brakes.
17" wheels are common, OEM is 17x7" and aftermarket wheels in good selection can be found up to about 17x8" but cost more and weigh more. 17x7" seems well matched to 205/45-17 and 215/45-17 so no need or wider rims for most owners. Good overall tire selection for Summer or All Season tires. Fits over JCW brakes. 45 series sidewalls are firm riding but tire selection is key, some Max Summer tires are comfortable like Michelin Pilot Sport 4S and Super Sport while Ultra High Performance All Season tires are also good.
18" wheels are possible and OEM is 18x7" but cost and weight can be higher plus tire sizes favor stiffer sidewalls, easily fits over larger brakes and looks aggressive, not as smooth riding so bad roads are not friendly. 19" are also possible but have all the drawbacks of larger wheels.
So for those who daily drive either 16" or 17" seem a common choice. For those who want more performance 17" is a good place to start looking. Try tirerack.com
#44
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