Street Driving w/ 40F 35R
Street Driving w/ 40F 35R
I just had my first auto-cross event last weekend and it was a BLAST! I really learned a lot about my car and what it's limits might really be (even though I definitely didn't hit that limit as a novice driver)
My question is...
I used the pressures listed in the subject for the race. I really like the tighter response I get during normal street driving. I've always favored higher pressures in my wheels for everyday driving in my old saturn as well.
Are there any concerns I should have driving at that pressure in general other than preference?
I have OEM runflats (16") and they list their max PSI as 51
My question is...
I used the pressures listed in the subject for the race. I really like the tighter response I get during normal street driving. I've always favored higher pressures in my wheels for everyday driving in my old saturn as well.
Are there any concerns I should have driving at that pressure in general other than preference?
I have OEM runflats (16") and they list their max PSI as 51
What jakay11 said. If you want to check and see if you are wearing them evenly, get an infrared thermometer (I use my hand, but it is not that accurate) and test the center vs. the edges. If they are even, you should be fine. If not, then rotating them often can help, but you are still probably gonna wear away the center first.
A trick the drag racers use: You can do a short burn out and take a look at the tread marks left on the pavement. If it's darker in the center, then you are running too much pressure. If it's darker on the edges, not enough. Adjust until the pattern is even across the width of the tread. Although wearing off your tread in this matter might be counterproductive towards tire life, it will give you an idea of what pressure will allow you to put down the most even contact patch.
A trick the drag racers use: You can do a short burn out and take a look at the tread marks left on the pavement. If it's darker in the center, then you are running too much pressure. If it's darker on the edges, not enough. Adjust until the pattern is even across the width of the tread. Although wearing off your tread in this matter might be counterproductive towards tire life, it will give you an idea of what pressure will allow you to put down the most even contact patch.
Jason

The OP apparently wants to know what his tires will be doing at those tire pressures when he is just driving around on the street. He already knows he likes the response from those pressures in the turns "when cornering at the limit", right?. But as he's concerned about how they are going to wear when doing street driving, he needs a way to determine that wear. Such as with an infrared temp gauge (as scab mentioned), or by finding a way to check his contact patch so he doesn't prematurely wear out the center section of his tires by running too much pressure.
Another method of checking for proper inflation is to find a long stretch of pavement such as an empty parking lot and then draw a line across the tread with chalk. Then simply drive straight across the parking lot. If the entire line of chalk has rubbed off, the tire is properly inflated. If the center of the line is rubbed off but the ends are still present, the tire is over-inflated. On the other hand, if the line is rubbed off at the ends but is still present in the center of the tread, the tire is under-inflated.--Wiki
http://www.turnfast.com/tech_handlin...ressure4.shtml
A harder tire may have a slight convex shape during a straight run, but may be necessary to help keep the sidewall stiff enough during cornering to prevent the tire from rolling under the wheel rim excessively. So, while in a static state, the contact patch is smaller than optimally possible, this actually increases the effective contact patch size during cornering.
Last edited by Dan00Hawk; Nov 19, 2007 at 09:04 PM.
Thanks guys! The information around here is always awesome 
I'll probably lower the pressure a bit to find a happy medium as I'm going to be facing a lot less cornering in my daily drives to work (especially here in IL).
Thanks again, I've got a good amount of stuff to chew on

I'll probably lower the pressure a bit to find a happy medium as I'm going to be facing a lot less cornering in my daily drives to work (especially here in IL).
Thanks again, I've got a good amount of stuff to chew on
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Thanks guys! The information around here is always awesome 
I'll probably lower the pressure a bit to find a happy medium as I'm going to be facing a lot less cornering in my daily drives to work (especially here in IL).
Thanks again, I've got a good amount of stuff to chew on

I'll probably lower the pressure a bit to find a happy medium as I'm going to be facing a lot less cornering in my daily drives to work (especially here in IL).
Thanks again, I've got a good amount of stuff to chew on

There's nothing wrong with running 40F, 35R on the street all the time. The concerns about wearing out the center of the tire due to overinflation are left over from bias ply tires. Modern radial tire construction makes this a relative non-issue.
I've used similar settings (around 40psi, give or take a couple psi depending on cars and tires) on the street for 115,000 miles on my MCS, 80,000 miles on the previous car, and 239,000 miles on my wife's Forester. The higher pressures relative to OEM recommended settings only help most factors except ride quality.
In general, somewhat higher tire pressures result in:
-Decreased fuel consumption due to reduced rolling resistance
-Increased cornering capacity and improved steering response
-Longer tire life due to less heat (tire deforms less as it rolls)
-Increased ride harsness as the increased pressure in the tire makes it a "stiffer spring". Yes, the tire is a spring from a suspension viewpoint.
My wife doesn't care about the 2nd and 3rd points above, and hasn't noticed the 4th. Her car is also set for 0 toe front and rear to further help the 1st and 3rd points.
Scott
90SM
I've used similar settings (around 40psi, give or take a couple psi depending on cars and tires) on the street for 115,000 miles on my MCS, 80,000 miles on the previous car, and 239,000 miles on my wife's Forester. The higher pressures relative to OEM recommended settings only help most factors except ride quality.
In general, somewhat higher tire pressures result in:
-Decreased fuel consumption due to reduced rolling resistance
-Increased cornering capacity and improved steering response
-Longer tire life due to less heat (tire deforms less as it rolls)
-Increased ride harsness as the increased pressure in the tire makes it a "stiffer spring". Yes, the tire is a spring from a suspension viewpoint.
My wife doesn't care about the 2nd and 3rd points above, and hasn't noticed the 4th. Her car is also set for 0 toe front and rear to further help the 1st and 3rd points.
Scott
90SM
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