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I like the 18's cosmetically....and I've had no problems with them. I wouldn't mind 16 or 17" with a lighter wheel just to see how different the car would be? I went from 16" X-Lites to these.....but I only had the car 4 days before I put these on.
There are some really unique mods on that blue MC...side skirts, mirrors, blue side turn indicators...no roof antenna!?...one windsheild wiper!?...and it looks like the rearview mirror has been mounted on the dash!?
Am I seeing this right? All very cool though!
Last edited by jaynicholson; May 18, 2007 at 08:12 AM.
Here's a quick shot of SSR Type C RS 17x7.5 on my car, after the Dragon ate my two front center caps:
The anthracite color works well with dark silver. These are the replacements for the SSR Competitions I had last year, they are essentially the same rims but without the machined lip.
WHen I first got the Comps, they came with plastic center caps. After a couple rather spirited runs, I noticed that one front cap was barely hanging on, and the other side came off with just a slight tug. THe heat from the brakes softened the plastic and the caps loosened. I popped them off. WHen I wrote Tire Rack, they sent me the aluminum caps free of charge. No problem after than With these new rims, I got new aluminum caps. The retaining o-ring was being a bit sticky, so I lightly oiled it to get it to fully seat. Apparently either some air pressure built up behind the cap and pushed them off, or the o-ring relaxed and off they came. Either way, I am putting the caps from the Comps on instead, and carving a slight notch in each o-ring to relieve any air pressure behind them.
is it okay to run without center caps like Shawn G and kenchan? i thought they were there to prevent brake dust or dirt getting into that area...i would rather run without, as i don't want to mess around with getting ones that stay on
It's perfectly fine to run sans center caps. There is nothing that they do that affects the braking system or anything else. They are mostly decorative, and the cover the bare metal hubs and the front spindle nut. If you plan on running without caps, you'd do well to give a shot of paint to the hub areas (take the wheel off first) so you wont be looking at a rusty hole in the middle of your wheel. If you run your car on the street in all weather, periodically remove the wheels and clean up any corrosion that shows up. Without the caps, water gets right into the the hub area, and with aluminum against steel, corrosion happens fast and can cause your wheel to stick. Use of antiseize or synthetic brake caliper/hardware grease (which is what I use) will slow down the corrosion process and help keep your wheels from getting frozen onto the hubs.
Those tracking their cars usually run without the caps for various reasons.
WHen I first got the Comps, they came with plastic center caps. After a couple rather spirited runs, I noticed that one front cap was barely hanging on, and the other side came off with just a slight tug. THe heat from the brakes softened the plastic and the caps loosened. I popped them off. WHen I wrote Tire Rack, they sent me the aluminum caps free of charge. No problem after than With these new rims, I got new aluminum caps. The retaining o-ring was being a bit sticky, so I lightly oiled it to get it to fully seat. Apparently either some air pressure built up behind the cap and pushed them off, or the o-ring relaxed and off they came. Either way, I am putting the caps from the Comps on instead, and carving a slight notch in each o-ring to relieve any air pressure behind them.
I have 15x7 SSR Competitions, and on my '06 MCC the hub flanges are too tall by 1-2 mm for the metal SSR caps to fit. When mounting a wheel, the hub pushed the center cap out. Alex at TireRack said it fitted in earlier MINI and thought there might have been a hub change in '05. The plastic SSR center caps require less clearance and fit my car but look much less attractive. I'm using 3mm spacers to fit the metal SSR caps rather than use the plastic version.
Greatbear, I'm wondering if you might have a tight tolerance between the metal cap and the hub, and from thermal expansion they come in contact and the rubber O ring couldn't handle the heat.