Yep, they got here yesterday I won't be under the MINI this weekend, rain, rain, rain

 

Anyone know the part number for the stretch bolt I need?

 

31 10 6 772 432

 

Thank for write up

 

Just finished this install tonight, made a world of difference. I went with the pre-pressed Powerflex LCA brackets/bushings from Way Motor Works. I also put in the Powerflex bushing enhancers for the big end of the lower motor mount, seems to be helping with wheel hop and such, with a little more rumble coming into the cabin. I know it'll settle in, but I sort of like the new rumble, feels meaner.

I tried dropping the entire subframe, but couldn't locate the right ball joint separator, nor could I get the outer ball joint apart from the hub, so I ended up doing it with the subframe hanging underneath the car. It sucked a lot, but I got it done.

I boogered up the boot on an outer ball joint and the grease is leaking, so I guess I'll be doing that in the relatively near future. I'd love some more hints on getting those suckers off!

 

A well placed good hard smack ON THE A-ARM with a hammer has worked for me in the past (popped right loose).

Also, for the ball-joint check your local part store as some are picking up items like that for the Mini. I think ONE from Mini is like $85 for the outer and like $115 for the inners.

 

Anyone have this how-to saved with pictures? It seems http://www.lonestarminiclub.com/ didn't pay the rent.

I'm about to tackle this install tonight or Wed, and pictures always help

 

Now that I did the deed, I would prefer to err on the side of replacing the bolt. Especially if you have a high mileage vehicle, I would make sure that you source the bolts before you start the project. I spent half a day driving around NJ to find new bolts. Even if I thought it was ok to re-use a stretch bolt, in my case this was not an option, see the attached picture.

Personally, I believe it would be nice to be able to buy the whole kit, pre-pressed Powerflex bushings, with a replacement bolt included.

 

I apologize in advance if I missed it, but would it be prudent to get an alignment after this install?

I'm overdue for one, and was planning for one after I get some new tires next week. Just trying to see if I need to swap these bushings prior to the alignment... Thanks.

EDIT / ADD: It looks like only caster might change with this procedure, and that can be minimized as Keith explains... If incorrect, please let me know.

 

Has anyone tried this method?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XERQz9yJ5i4

I have to do mine and dropping the subframe is something I'd REALLY like to avoid. They make this look almost too easy to not have been discussed here. I think I'd go the Sawzall method though.. under my car, on jack stands, fumbling around with a torch doesn't seem like a good idea.

 

That was interesting. There's certainly more than one way, that's for sure. I agree about avoiding the torch method...

I already have the new PF bushings pressed into brackets / carriers, so I need to remove the existing ones, and I believe that entails the dropping of the subframe.

With a newborn, this project has been on hold for over year!

 

I'm curious about this method as well. I didn't realize it was going to be such a pain when I bought the new bushings. I just need to figure out which one of my friends can loan me a sawzall.

Edit: Anyone know where to buy the BMW bushing extractor tool?

 

Have fun spending a little over 500 bucks for it.

 

Use a prybar to pry the bushings off the control arm. Then just press them out of the brackets in a press, or cut them out of the brackets.

 

I'm curious about the method shown in post # 60 above. Seems too easy, particularly if you are installing bushings pre-pressed into other carriers and don't need to remove the old bushings from the old carriers. Comments?

 

The control arms don't come off very easy, and alot of times you will damage the inner boot on the ball joint. If you don't have a good air hammer pushing them out on the car is a huge pain. You don't have to take the subframe out of the car, just pull it down far enough to get the bolts out of the brackets.

 

Which works out to be a tick over a 2x4s worth. Did this the first go around, and really should have stuck with it the second time.

I would not use a damned blow-torch on them, thats for sure

 

So for those getting them with bushings prepressed in the brackets, just loosen the power steering reservoir, than remove enough bolts to lower the rear of the subframe enough to swap out the brackets?

- andrew

 

Yes I actually use a 2x4 when I do it.

Nothing wrong with the torch, unless you set the car on fire, or overheat the bracket and make it brittle.

 

i did the same thing, for polyeurethane bushings (powerflex), without any extractors, without removing the stering rack, the car jacked a foot high on stands, and no compressor to put the new bask in...

i slacked the subframe, disconected the stering collumn from the stering rack ( give 10 cm more to play. ) remove the old bushing with a steel rod and a big hammer ( theres a weak spot on the oem bushings) prying the metal to the inside, ( 15 minutes hammering max) then to put the new back, i jacked a f-150, put the bushing on top of the part( the good side 1st time :P ) and a 2/4 over it to make sure its straight, ... and droped the f-150... and needed 4 guys go go in the truck to have some weight.. and it worked perfect... time to complete it, 3 hours.

 

at the F-150 part! But if it works!

As for me, I used the lazy method, removed everything that holds the control arms, loosened the subframe, pulled on the control arms (one of the bushing was so bad that the center came with the arm.) Heated up the bracket and pushed them out with air hammer! Got the new bushings in with an homemade tool, a bit of a pain cause they wouldn't stay centered, but it worked after a bit of try!

 

Dropping sub-frame, installing PF bushings, replacing inner LCA ball joints, and swaybar bar bushings - 3 hours - on the driveway - including set-up and cleanup. This is a very easy jobm but you simply have to take your time...might be 5 hours the first time...should be four. The job looks much worse than it is. It is MUCH easier to remove and install all components with the sub-frame out of the car. The only PITA from my perspective is the bumper and related components...everything else is very, very straight foreward. Don't forget to remove the clamp that holds the PS tank.

 

I'm considering replacing with PowerFlex bushings soon and found this procedure on YouTube. It looks so much easer. Has anyone tried it?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XERQz9yJ5i4

 

I see now that this has already been posted..... sorry

 

heres my BMW tool. The socket goes inside the black bushing and keeps the end cap from moving around, so its easier to get the bushing to go in straight.