How hard is it to get the Bushing on the control arm? I am planning on going poly and doing this in my garage where I do not have a press or vice...I am also planning on only dropping the fram a few inches... I was hoping to do this repair myself as I need to send the PS pump off for rebuild and figured it would be easy to attack both at the same time.

 

This will make your life much easier http://www.autoxcooper.com/control_a...e_service.html it's not so much getting the new poly in it's getting the old bushing out. Even with all the right tools and the MINI on a rack I dislike doing this job the most of all things we do to MINI'

 

I am already planning on that... I was wondering about getting the bushing on the wishbone... The pictures showed a press used to get it on..

 

If you are going with Powerflex bushings, you don't need to press them on to the control arm. They just slide on. The OEM bushings are a press-fit.

I've done this job 5 times, I think (have lost track)... still have one more set to do (although don't know when)... I have the BMW tool and use 002's method more or less, with a few differences. I promise to take pictures next time and hopefully do a write up...

How fast I get it done depends on the car and whether or not I have a "helper" (usually the car's owner). With a helper: 4 hours. Solo: about 2 hours.

 

Thanks, I doubt I will have a helper and I have never dropped the subframe before... any hints, tips, tricks, warnings is helpful.

 

Dropping the subframe isn't too bad. But I have a mid-rise lift and a tranny jack, so it's hard to say. It can be done on jack stands, but you need to get the car as high as you can.

I followed the front sway bar instructions on (I think) the TSW site. Those are pretty thorough.

 

My Haynes manual says to remove the bumper, is that necessary?

 

And what points should I use for the jack stands? Without the subframe as an option what should I use?

 

The PF poly bushings slide right on the control arm. The only pressing part is when we press the bushing into the bracket. If you get our prepressed bracket/bushing the hardest part of your job will be prying the stock bushings off.

 

Yes, the crush tubes are attached to the bumper so it must be removed.In the first post there is a link to a how-to for dropping the subframe. Stands are placed under the OE lift pucks.I also do a few things differently now that I've made a few helpful tools, but the fundamental process is unchanged.Be sure to get two new bolts for attaching the bushing carrier bracket to the body.

 

To drop the sub-frame: yes. The crush bars slide on about 4" and bolt to the front of the sub-frame, so they have to be removed and you have to remove the bumper to remove them. I'm not sure there's enough leeway in the components to slide it back that far to clear. I've never had to try. The only time I've dropped the sub-frame for the bushings was the first time and that was also my first time dropping the sub-frame, so I did it by the book. Since then, I've only dropped the sub-frame for tranny work, in whch case I'm putting the MFE into "service mode" so the bumper has to come off regardless. Removing the bumper isn't hard. Just a few nuts and bolts. I pop it on off with nary a thought...

The only comment about jack stands is get the car as high as possible. High enough so the sub-frame has room to drop and come out with the power steering reservoir clearing. Like I said: I have a lift, so I cheat: loosen everything, support the subframe on a trans jack, remove the bolts, then lift the car off. I've never done it with jack-stands...

 

Do I have to drop it completely? I see some posts about just dropping the back. If I can avoid removing the subframe, I want to.... if I use that technique, do I can just use a second jack- right?

 

Apparently, the dealer techs remove the rear bolts, loosen the forward bolts then wedge it down far enough to remove the bolts holding the brackets in place, then prying them off the control arm (they actually have a special tool to do this). I've never done it this way, so that's about all I know.

 

Which bolt is required to be replaced?

 

Your suppose to replace the bolt that goes through the bushing bracket into the body, it's a little smaller than the rest. But honestly if you just make sure they are tight when they go back in you should be ok. We reuse them here at the shop.

 

Keith got punted because of vendor complaints about cam stuff. So unless things change, don't expect him to be posting anymore.

NAMs loss on that one.

Matt

 

The torque spec for the bolts that attach the bushing carrier bracket to the subframe is 42 ft-lb plus a torque angle of 90 degrees. Whenever you see a torque angle specified the bolt is a torque to yield bolt. That means it’s single use, because the bolt is stretched during the degree angle torque application. Not only will the bolt elongate and thread pitch change, the metal may have exceeded its plasticity threshold, increasing the risk of shearing the next tightening attempt. There are a number of passive safety features designed into the subframe, one of which is the crimped tab the body bolt secures. I’m sure the torque to yield bolt is a component of that feature, otherwise it would be fat bolt with a torque spec of 75ft-lb like those on the rest of the subframe.

 

Wow M/A is looking better and better every day.

 

Hey CARdiac, I'm looking for all the same info and How To Tips. It will be a real shame if the Doc is right, Keith has all ways been a valuable contributor here.
Will be doing my own FCAB but with the Alta PSRS pre-installed in the brackets.

 

and said that some of his latest post are showing up, but it's looking like it takes quite a while. I honestly don't know if he's been banned or is being super-moderated. We'll see.

And the Alliance is a good place. While membership is still much lower than here, there are a lot of people who know thier stuff, so accurate answers do come to questions. Go on over, sign up, and start creating a critical mass there too!

Matt

 

Norm I look forward to seeing your PSRS install. Your shocks are also on the way.

 

I was wondering about that... definitely NAM's loss...

Lately, I've been trying to ignore the whiney mod threads... just too much bait for fan-boi-mud-slinging... and also why my own participation on NAM can be... sporadic...

 

This may be obvious but I will ask... I am assuming that 42 ft-lb + 90 degrees means I tighten to 42 ft-lb and then rotate an additional 1/4 turn?

 

Yes you are correct.

 

It is supposed to say, "The torque spec for the bolts that attach the bushing carrier bracket to the body" not subframe. But since I'm not allowed to edit my own post, you will not see this until four days later, at which time someone will have already followed erroneous instruction and the heads-up will do no good.