Suspension Bilstein PSS9 Linear Spring Swap (fronts)
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6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,957
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From: a canyon, south Bay Area
Bilstein PSS9 Linear Spring Swap (fronts)
I believe posts can be found from 3+ years ago when I was first contemplating my coilover purchase, namely between Leda and PSS9s. Despite the many who directed me towards the Bilsteins, including quite a few who previously had Ledas, I went with Leda, with one of the reasons being linear springs, all the way around.
Long story, but since it's been shared previously by myself and others, I lost the Ledas, and finally went with the Bilstein PSS9s; and life has been dandy since. However, I still wanted the consistency of a linear spring in the front, where the PSS9s come with stock-like barrel springs which are progressive. I also wanted more than -2.0 degrees of camber, and that generally necessitates a smaller coil diameter.
While at the Monterey Historics late last Summer, I had the chance to pick the mind of Aaron at H-Sport, and he had experiemented with linear springs on the PSS9s, and he was a wealth of knowledge, and was eager to share what he had learned. Not long after meeting him, I chimed-in on a thread regarding track suspension set-up, and he replied there as well with further details, convincing me that this is what I should do, and I ordered a pair of springs immediately: H&R 350 in-lbs, 6" free length.
These dang these sat in a box for a few months, due to a multitude of reasons, including a camber plate swap, new tires on the way, and a looming rear trailing arm swap. I wanted to do all at the same time. However, after a few posts with one of our very successful autocrossers (90STX), I felt compelled to make this happen, now.
What I thought would be a two to three hour job, took the better part of a day. When my PSS9s were intalled, a shaft nut was apparently cross-threaded
. I cringed as I backed it out, seeing spirals of metal spin upward. I however thought (hoped) that if I reused the same nut, and some thread lock, I'd be ok with the re-install. Wrong!
As Matt (Dr O) knows because of a phone call, while I got the nut back on, it woud not tighten, and after trying to remove it, no dice. It would just spin inside the tight quarters of the H-Sport slider. I thought I was hosed, and would need to get professional help to remove the nut, and after that, maybe a new shock. I decided to take a risk, and break or split the nut, possibly jeopardizing what good threads were left. With the right size bit, and plenty of patience, it took nearly an hour to get that sucker off. And the good news... is that without the provided H-Sport camber plate spacers, I had plenty of good threads to make this work!
Speaking of those spacers, I believe there a couple of references to them here on NAM. They are given to those who get the 2.25 or 2.5" kit. These are to be used to effectively lessen the exposed threads coming through the slider. If too long, it could pose a problem with the plate above. Thankfully, I didn't need these. Of note, one person said to use a spacer under the top had, and another said to use it on top of the hat, and below the pillow ball. From my experimenting, both would do the trick. However, if one puts it between the hat and ball, there is an added benefit of increased range of motion, essentially making for even more camber. For those who want 3, or even 4 degrees, this would be prudent. I'm going bump mine up to only -2.5 or -2.6 from -2.0, so spacers would be overkill for me, and since I didn't have too long of threads on the top, spacers were not used.
As the below picture should show, I raised the thread perches to almost the top, with very little thread show above. The black electrical tape indicates where the perches were before, for my reference. Also, the nut that I split is in the photo.
After the drama, the install was very easy and staightforward. I will of course need a front alignment, and I will do so soon. I've never had just an alignment on the front, so I assume that is appropriate, or ok. If not, please let me know...
Oh, since I had a professional corner-balance done a while ago, I didn't want to botch that too much. I took measurements before I got started from the ground, vertically through the hub, and to the base of wheel arch, and got 24 15/16" on the driver's side, and 24 7/8" on the passenger side. The goal is to get back to this, once the springs settle. After the install, I was well over 25 1/2". After rocking the car a little, it went down to 25 1/2 and after a short drive, while hammering the brakes to put heavy forces on the springs, it was below 25 1/2 afterwards. Anyone know how about long it takes for such a spring to settle completely?
Initial driving impressions are very favorable, despite the need for an alignment as noticed when pushing it a little, and I was hesitant. Also, when acclerating hard in a straight line, the car now pulls to the left. The ride feels quite a bit better, firmer, and less choppy. I have the fronts on 6, and rears on 2 currently...
More impressions to come after a front alignment!
I almost forgot, the proper torque setting for the shaft nut is 50-60 ft-lbs, so I read somewhere. When using an air impact wrench, how is one to gauge this?
Long story, but since it's been shared previously by myself and others, I lost the Ledas, and finally went with the Bilstein PSS9s; and life has been dandy since. However, I still wanted the consistency of a linear spring in the front, where the PSS9s come with stock-like barrel springs which are progressive. I also wanted more than -2.0 degrees of camber, and that generally necessitates a smaller coil diameter.
While at the Monterey Historics late last Summer, I had the chance to pick the mind of Aaron at H-Sport, and he had experiemented with linear springs on the PSS9s, and he was a wealth of knowledge, and was eager to share what he had learned. Not long after meeting him, I chimed-in on a thread regarding track suspension set-up, and he replied there as well with further details, convincing me that this is what I should do, and I ordered a pair of springs immediately: H&R 350 in-lbs, 6" free length.
These dang these sat in a box for a few months, due to a multitude of reasons, including a camber plate swap, new tires on the way, and a looming rear trailing arm swap. I wanted to do all at the same time. However, after a few posts with one of our very successful autocrossers (90STX), I felt compelled to make this happen, now.
What I thought would be a two to three hour job, took the better part of a day. When my PSS9s were intalled, a shaft nut was apparently cross-threaded
. I cringed as I backed it out, seeing spirals of metal spin upward. I however thought (hoped) that if I reused the same nut, and some thread lock, I'd be ok with the re-install. Wrong!As Matt (Dr O) knows because of a phone call, while I got the nut back on, it woud not tighten, and after trying to remove it, no dice. It would just spin inside the tight quarters of the H-Sport slider. I thought I was hosed, and would need to get professional help to remove the nut, and after that, maybe a new shock. I decided to take a risk, and break or split the nut, possibly jeopardizing what good threads were left. With the right size bit, and plenty of patience, it took nearly an hour to get that sucker off. And the good news... is that without the provided H-Sport camber plate spacers, I had plenty of good threads to make this work!
Speaking of those spacers, I believe there a couple of references to them here on NAM. They are given to those who get the 2.25 or 2.5" kit. These are to be used to effectively lessen the exposed threads coming through the slider. If too long, it could pose a problem with the plate above. Thankfully, I didn't need these. Of note, one person said to use a spacer under the top had, and another said to use it on top of the hat, and below the pillow ball. From my experimenting, both would do the trick. However, if one puts it between the hat and ball, there is an added benefit of increased range of motion, essentially making for even more camber. For those who want 3, or even 4 degrees, this would be prudent. I'm going bump mine up to only -2.5 or -2.6 from -2.0, so spacers would be overkill for me, and since I didn't have too long of threads on the top, spacers were not used.
As the below picture should show, I raised the thread perches to almost the top, with very little thread show above. The black electrical tape indicates where the perches were before, for my reference. Also, the nut that I split is in the photo.
After the drama, the install was very easy and staightforward. I will of course need a front alignment, and I will do so soon. I've never had just an alignment on the front, so I assume that is appropriate, or ok. If not, please let me know...
Oh, since I had a professional corner-balance done a while ago, I didn't want to botch that too much. I took measurements before I got started from the ground, vertically through the hub, and to the base of wheel arch, and got 24 15/16" on the driver's side, and 24 7/8" on the passenger side. The goal is to get back to this, once the springs settle. After the install, I was well over 25 1/2". After rocking the car a little, it went down to 25 1/2 and after a short drive, while hammering the brakes to put heavy forces on the springs, it was below 25 1/2 afterwards. Anyone know how about long it takes for such a spring to settle completely?
Initial driving impressions are very favorable, despite the need for an alignment as noticed when pushing it a little, and I was hesitant. Also, when acclerating hard in a straight line, the car now pulls to the left. The ride feels quite a bit better, firmer, and less choppy. I have the fronts on 6, and rears on 2 currently...
More impressions to come after a front alignment!
I almost forgot, the proper torque setting for the shaft nut is 50-60 ft-lbs, so I read somewhere. When using an air impact wrench, how is one to gauge this?
Last edited by TonyB; Apr 8, 2007 at 10:54 PM.
6th Gear
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,149
Likes: 0
I believe posts can be found from 3+ years ago when I was first contemplating my coilover purchase, namely between Leda and PSS9s. Despite the many who directed me towards the Bilsteins, including quite a few who previously had Ledas, I went with Leda, with one of the reasons being linear springs, all the way around.
Long story, but since it's been shared previously by myself and others, I lost the Ledas, and finally went with the Bilstein PSS9s; and life has been dandy since. However, I still wanted the consistency of a linear spring in the front, where the PSS9s come with stock-like barrel springs which are progressive. I also wanted more than -2.0 degrees of camber, and that generally necessitates a smaller coil diameter.
While at the Monterey Historics late last Summer, I had the chance to pick the mind of Aaron at H-Sport, and he had experiemented with linear springs on the PSS9s, and he was a wealth of knowledge, and was eager to share what he had learned. Not long after meeting him, I chimed-in on a thread regarding track suspension set-up, and he replied there as well with further details, convincing me that this is what I should do, and I ordered a pair of springs immediately: H&R 350 in-lbs, 6" free length.
These dang these sat in a box for a few months, due to a multitude of reasons, including a camber plate swap, new tires on the way, and a looming rear trailing arm swap. I wanted to do all at the same time. However, after a few posts with one of our very successful autocrossers (90STX), I felt compelled to make this happen, now.
What I thought would be a two to three hour job, took the better part of a day. When my PSS9s were intalled, a shaft nut was apparently cross-threaded . I cringed as I backed it out, seeing spirals of metal spin upward. I however thought (hoped) that if I reused the same nut, and some thread lock, I'd be ok with the re-install. Wrong!
As Matt (Dr O) knows because of a phone call, while I got the nut back on, it woud not tighten, and after trying to remove it, no dice. It would just spin inside the tight quarters of the H-Sport slider. I thought I was hosed, and would need to get professional help to remove the nut, and after that, maybe a new shock. I decided to take a risk, and break or split the nut, possibly jeopardizing what good threads were left. With the right size bit, and plenty of patience, it took nearly an hour to get that sucker off. And the good news... is that without the provided H-Sport camber plate spacers, I had plenty of good threads to make this work!
Speaking of those spacers, I believe there a couple of references to them here on NAM. They are given to those who get the 2.25 or 2.5" kit. These are to be used to effectively lessen the exposed threads coming through the slider. If too long, it could pose a problem with the plate above. Thankfully, I didn't need these. Of note, one person said to use a spacer under the top had, and another said to use it on top of the hat, and below the pillow ball. From my experimenting, both would do the trick. However, if one puts it between the hat and ball, there is an added benefit of increased range of motion, essentially making for even more camber. For those who want 3, or even 4 degrees, this would be prudent. I'm going bump mine up to only -2.5 or -2.6 from -2.0, so spacers would be overkill for me, and since I didn't have too long of threads on the top, spacers were not used.
As the below picture should show, I raised the thread perches to almost the top, with very little thread show above. The black electrical tape indicates where the perches were before, for my reference. Also, the nut that I split is in the photo.
After the drama, the install was very easy and staightforward. I will of course need a front alignment, and I will do so soon. I've never had just an alignment on the front, so I assume that is appropriate, or ok. If not, please let me know...
Oh, since I had a professional corner-balance done a while ago, I didn't want to botch that too much. I took measurements before I got started from the ground, vertically through the hub, and to the base of wheel arch, and got 24 15/16" on the driver's side, and 24 7/8" on the passenger side. The goal is to get back to this, once the springs settle. After the install, I was well over 25 1/2". After rocking the car a little, it went down to 25 1/2 and after a short drive, while hammering the brakes to put heavy forces on the springs, it was below 25 1/2 afterwards. Anyone know how about long it takes for such a spring to settle completely?
Initial driving impressions are very favorable, despite the need for an alignment as noticed when pushing it a little, and I was hesitant. Also, when acclerating hard in a straight line, the car now pulls to the left. The ride feels quite a bit better, firmer, and less choppy. I have the fronts on 6, and rears on 2 currently...
More impressions to come after a front alignment!
I almost forgot, the proper torque setting for the shaft nut is 50-60 ft-lbs, so I read somewhere. When using an air impact wrench, how is one to gauge this?
Long story, but since it's been shared previously by myself and others, I lost the Ledas, and finally went with the Bilstein PSS9s; and life has been dandy since. However, I still wanted the consistency of a linear spring in the front, where the PSS9s come with stock-like barrel springs which are progressive. I also wanted more than -2.0 degrees of camber, and that generally necessitates a smaller coil diameter.
While at the Monterey Historics late last Summer, I had the chance to pick the mind of Aaron at H-Sport, and he had experiemented with linear springs on the PSS9s, and he was a wealth of knowledge, and was eager to share what he had learned. Not long after meeting him, I chimed-in on a thread regarding track suspension set-up, and he replied there as well with further details, convincing me that this is what I should do, and I ordered a pair of springs immediately: H&R 350 in-lbs, 6" free length.
These dang these sat in a box for a few months, due to a multitude of reasons, including a camber plate swap, new tires on the way, and a looming rear trailing arm swap. I wanted to do all at the same time. However, after a few posts with one of our very successful autocrossers (90STX), I felt compelled to make this happen, now.
What I thought would be a two to three hour job, took the better part of a day. When my PSS9s were intalled, a shaft nut was apparently cross-threaded
. I cringed as I backed it out, seeing spirals of metal spin upward. I however thought (hoped) that if I reused the same nut, and some thread lock, I'd be ok with the re-install. Wrong!As Matt (Dr O) knows because of a phone call, while I got the nut back on, it woud not tighten, and after trying to remove it, no dice. It would just spin inside the tight quarters of the H-Sport slider. I thought I was hosed, and would need to get professional help to remove the nut, and after that, maybe a new shock. I decided to take a risk, and break or split the nut, possibly jeopardizing what good threads were left. With the right size bit, and plenty of patience, it took nearly an hour to get that sucker off. And the good news... is that without the provided H-Sport camber plate spacers, I had plenty of good threads to make this work!
Speaking of those spacers, I believe there a couple of references to them here on NAM. They are given to those who get the 2.25 or 2.5" kit. These are to be used to effectively lessen the exposed threads coming through the slider. If too long, it could pose a problem with the plate above. Thankfully, I didn't need these. Of note, one person said to use a spacer under the top had, and another said to use it on top of the hat, and below the pillow ball. From my experimenting, both would do the trick. However, if one puts it between the hat and ball, there is an added benefit of increased range of motion, essentially making for even more camber. For those who want 3, or even 4 degrees, this would be prudent. I'm going bump mine up to only -2.5 or -2.6 from -2.0, so spacers would be overkill for me, and since I didn't have too long of threads on the top, spacers were not used.
As the below picture should show, I raised the thread perches to almost the top, with very little thread show above. The black electrical tape indicates where the perches were before, for my reference. Also, the nut that I split is in the photo.
After the drama, the install was very easy and staightforward. I will of course need a front alignment, and I will do so soon. I've never had just an alignment on the front, so I assume that is appropriate, or ok. If not, please let me know...
Oh, since I had a professional corner-balance done a while ago, I didn't want to botch that too much. I took measurements before I got started from the ground, vertically through the hub, and to the base of wheel arch, and got 24 15/16" on the driver's side, and 24 7/8" on the passenger side. The goal is to get back to this, once the springs settle. After the install, I was well over 25 1/2". After rocking the car a little, it went down to 25 1/2 and after a short drive, while hammering the brakes to put heavy forces on the springs, it was below 25 1/2 afterwards. Anyone know how about long it takes for such a spring to settle completely?
Initial driving impressions are very favorable, despite the need for an alignment as noticed when pushing it a little, and I was hesitant. Also, when acclerating hard in a straight line, the car now pulls to the left. The ride feels quite a bit better, firmer, and less choppy. I have the fronts on 6, and rears on 2 currently...
More impressions to come after a front alignment!
I almost forgot, the proper torque setting for the shaft nut is 50-60 ft-lbs, so I read somewhere. When using an air impact wrench, how is one to gauge this?
5th Gear
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 628
Likes: 0
From: Indianapolis
Glad to hear you got the swap made Tony. Too bad it got so "interesting". I'm cursed that way too, so I always plan on it taking three times longer than it should. You shouldn't catch any flack for wanting an alignment on one end only.
Sounds like your initial impressions are favorable, as I thought they would be. I don't know why Bilstein doesn't sell them this way in the first place. Better ride and better handling.
Scott
90SM
Sounds like your initial impressions are favorable, as I thought they would be. I don't know why Bilstein doesn't sell them this way in the first place. Better ride and better handling.
Scott
90SM
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6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,957
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From: a canyon, south Bay Area
Thanks Scott!
I put a good 60 miles on it today, and I'm really liking the change. On the way home, in the canyon, I ran into one of my "cat & mouse" playmates, and I dreaded what would happen next... but I played. I just don't know the car yet with the altered (probably screwed-up) suspension, and really don't want to. I love how the springs keep the car more stable, especially after a couple of elevation drops where the progressive springs would yo-yo too much...
I called the shop that I wanted to use for an alignment, and they said that I would have to leave my MINI there for the day. I don't like that, for two reasons: inconvenience, plus I like to watch the process!
There's a race shop about an hour away that I went to last time, and I believe they are open on Sat...
I want to try -2.6 in the front, and move my rears up to -1.6. However, I'm going to leave rear at the current -1.4 as I plan to install the lighter trailing arms soon, after which I'll need an alignment.
Scott, what settings (1-9) are you rolling with on the PSS9s?
Oh, I found-out via PM that the threaded shaft can be replaced, if need be! Something good to know...
I put a good 60 miles on it today, and I'm really liking the change. On the way home, in the canyon, I ran into one of my "cat & mouse" playmates, and I dreaded what would happen next... but I played. I just don't know the car yet with the altered (probably screwed-up) suspension, and really don't want to. I love how the springs keep the car more stable, especially after a couple of elevation drops where the progressive springs would yo-yo too much...
I called the shop that I wanted to use for an alignment, and they said that I would have to leave my MINI there for the day. I don't like that, for two reasons: inconvenience, plus I like to watch the process!
There's a race shop about an hour away that I went to last time, and I believe they are open on Sat...
I want to try -2.6 in the front, and move my rears up to -1.6. However, I'm going to leave rear at the current -1.4 as I plan to install the lighter trailing arms soon, after which I'll need an alignment.
Scott, what settings (1-9) are you rolling with on the PSS9s?
Oh, I found-out via PM that the threaded shaft can be replaced, if need be! Something good to know...
Last edited by TonyB; Apr 9, 2007 at 11:27 PM.
5th Gear
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 628
Likes: 0
From: Indianapolis
Current setup:
Front
-2.4deg camber
.05deg toe out
Damper set on 7 for commuting, 1 or 2 for autocross
Rear
-1.8deg camber
zero toe
Damper set on 8 for commuting, 1 or 2 for autocross
RSB - 22mm solid set on stiffest setting all the time (Way just installed an H-Sport Comp, also at the stiffest setting)
street tires are currently 615 Azenis in 215/45-16 on 7.5" Kosei with 5mm spacers in front. Tire pressures set at 42F, 38R at the start of each run if I autocross on them. Street pressures 39F, 35R.
Scott
90SM
Front
-2.4deg camber
.05deg toe out
Damper set on 7 for commuting, 1 or 2 for autocross
Rear
-1.8deg camber
zero toe
Damper set on 8 for commuting, 1 or 2 for autocross
RSB - 22mm solid set on stiffest setting all the time (Way just installed an H-Sport Comp, also at the stiffest setting)
street tires are currently 615 Azenis in 215/45-16 on 7.5" Kosei with 5mm spacers in front. Tire pressures set at 42F, 38R at the start of each run if I autocross on them. Street pressures 39F, 35R.
Scott
90SM
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6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: a canyon, south Bay Area
That is thorough, I love it!
The only other bit I'd want to know... what is the offset of the Kosei's? With the 5mm spacers, that would be nice to know...
I was contemplating spacers with my +42 offset Volks, but wanted (and still want) a combo centering ring/spacer. Do you have such an animal, or know where to source this?
And (sorry, 3rd question!), what does adding spacers do to an alignment? Wondering if getting these after the aligment might screw it up... I'm thinking that it should not alter those settings.
The only other bit I'd want to know... what is the offset of the Kosei's? With the 5mm spacers, that would be nice to know...
I was contemplating spacers with my +42 offset Volks, but wanted (and still want) a combo centering ring/spacer. Do you have such an animal, or know where to source this?
And (sorry, 3rd question!), what does adding spacers do to an alignment? Wondering if getting these after the aligment might screw it up... I'm thinking that it should not alter those settings.
OVERDRIVE
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 7,201
Likes: 8
From: Norfolk, VA
Are you having any problems with inner-edge tire wear with the -2.4 degrees of camber on the front? I'm also about to set up my car for combination commuting/autocross duties, and I'm trying to figure out where to set the camber.
5th Gear
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 628
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From: Indianapolis
16x7.5" are 43ET. The 15x7 K1s that I use with 225/45-15 R compounds are 38ET. I use the spacers with both wheels.
I just used H&R spacers. The Kosei wheels have centering rings, but they stay with the wheel when I change them. The spacer stays on the hub. Pretty transparent.
You can add spacers after an alignment. It doesn't change the angle of the wheels relative to each other.
As for wear, when the tires are completely shot (talking about dual use tires) the inside edge is about 1/32 or less more worn than the outer edge. That seems pretty well perfect for me, since they are shot either way. I have a 40 mile drive (each way) to work every day, so I rack up plenty of street miles.
My snow tires (205/50-16 on stock X-lites) have seen 5 winters now, and the wear across the face is very subtle. I've had -2.0 to -2.4 degrees camber up front since early March '03, year round.
The difference in wear across the tire face actually dropped when the Quaife was installed back in Dec 2003. I spin the tires less coming out of turns. Even with out, or on my previous open diff car, the wear differences weren't dramatic enough to impact the life of the tires.
Camber doesn't really eat tires up. Aggressive toe settings can really do a number on them though.
Scott
90SM
I just used H&R spacers. The Kosei wheels have centering rings, but they stay with the wheel when I change them. The spacer stays on the hub. Pretty transparent.
You can add spacers after an alignment. It doesn't change the angle of the wheels relative to each other.
As for wear, when the tires are completely shot (talking about dual use tires) the inside edge is about 1/32 or less more worn than the outer edge. That seems pretty well perfect for me, since they are shot either way. I have a 40 mile drive (each way) to work every day, so I rack up plenty of street miles.
My snow tires (205/50-16 on stock X-lites) have seen 5 winters now, and the wear across the face is very subtle. I've had -2.0 to -2.4 degrees camber up front since early March '03, year round.
The difference in wear across the tire face actually dropped when the Quaife was installed back in Dec 2003. I spin the tires less coming out of turns. Even with out, or on my previous open diff car, the wear differences weren't dramatic enough to impact the life of the tires.
Camber doesn't really eat tires up. Aggressive toe settings can really do a number on them though.
Scott
90SM
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6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,957
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From: a canyon, south Bay Area
I just wanted to follow-up as I've learned that air (impact) should NOT be used on this application. Bilstein does not recommend this as it could screw up threads. FWIW, I used air for two reasons:
1. The MINI installer who previously installed my Ledas and these Bilsteins used air and...
2. The H-Sport camber plate directions, on the shaft nut portion, shows a photo of someone with an impact wrench.
I am contemplating ordering a new rod for 45 bucks, but I would also need to pay for a rebuild of $125 to get it installed. Again, I got a nylock nut on with good threads coming through, so I feel that I'm fine. Plus, I marked the nut with a Sharpie so I can detect any movement (loosening). If thread strippage is the only negative by using air, then I'll stay put...
I just wanted to share so others get and or use the proper tools. Speaking of which, here's a great thread from Keith! Posts 1 and 8 show a special socket for this purpose:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=92737
My local MINI dealership quoted me 70 bucks for the special socket! And, it would a special order item, which sucks. So... I made my own (Dremel'd an openning in a socket), and was done in less than an hour. BTW, a 13/16th works great with the stock 21mm nut!
1. The MINI installer who previously installed my Ledas and these Bilsteins used air and...
2. The H-Sport camber plate directions, on the shaft nut portion, shows a photo of someone with an impact wrench.
I am contemplating ordering a new rod for 45 bucks, but I would also need to pay for a rebuild of $125 to get it installed. Again, I got a nylock nut on with good threads coming through, so I feel that I'm fine. Plus, I marked the nut with a Sharpie so I can detect any movement (loosening). If thread strippage is the only negative by using air, then I'll stay put...
I just wanted to share so others get and or use the proper tools. Speaking of which, here's a great thread from Keith! Posts 1 and 8 show a special socket for this purpose:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=92737
My local MINI dealership quoted me 70 bucks for the special socket! And, it would a special order item, which sucks. So... I made my own (Dremel'd an openning in a socket), and was done in less than an hour. BTW, a 13/16th works great with the stock 21mm nut!
Last edited by TonyB; May 2, 2007 at 08:47 PM.
5th Gear
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 628
Likes: 0
From: Indianapolis
Be careful about spring rate / length selection. If you have questions, let me know.
Scott
90SM
5th Gear
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 628
Likes: 0
From: Indianapolis
6" and 350lbs/in up front works very well with the standard PSS9 springs in back. You'll need to lower the front spring perchs quite a bit to get the same ride height as these springs won't collapse as much as the progressive springs under the vehicle weight.
I strongly recommend not going for the "sitting on the ground" look. Along with compromising street use and handling in general, it also lets the front springs come out of contact with the top hat when the wheel is at full droop (as in both front wheels off the ground). You can lower the car well below stock ride height, just don't go crazy with it.
FYI, I think you'll find that the spring rate above will give a better ride than the standard PSS9 setup. That's in addition to providing what I found to be more predictable handling and faster transient response, which were the reasons I made the change in the first place. Any of the pictures in my gallery other than the one in the snow (which was taken in Feb 2003 right before I removed the stock suspension) represent acceptable ride height in my opinion. Note that all of those tires are somewhat shorter than stock, ranging from 215/45-16 to 225/45-15 and 225/50-15.
Scott
90SM
I strongly recommend not going for the "sitting on the ground" look. Along with compromising street use and handling in general, it also lets the front springs come out of contact with the top hat when the wheel is at full droop (as in both front wheels off the ground). You can lower the car well below stock ride height, just don't go crazy with it.
FYI, I think you'll find that the spring rate above will give a better ride than the standard PSS9 setup. That's in addition to providing what I found to be more predictable handling and faster transient response, which were the reasons I made the change in the first place. Any of the pictures in my gallery other than the one in the snow (which was taken in Feb 2003 right before I removed the stock suspension) represent acceptable ride height in my opinion. Note that all of those tires are somewhat shorter than stock, ranging from 215/45-16 to 225/45-15 and 225/50-15.
Scott
90SM
There's nothing like hearing from someone with first hand experience about a mod
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6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,957
Likes: 2
From: a canyon, south Bay Area
This looks to be a 5 year revival... I'm guessing many are long gone, but figured I'd check-in to see who is running what these days and what the experimentation has been...
I'm still have the 350's up front, with no change in the rear (340 linear, as provided by Bilstein)...
I don't feel any need for a change in the back, ie going with a heavier spring. With the *** end even lighter than before, it comes around nicely. Up front though, I am contemplating a stiffer spring rate. At some point I decided to remove my front sway bar. I first disco'd and drove that way for many weeks. I found this desirable (better traction in general, corner exit especially). There's a thread here, somewhere (it was not my idea). So, I'm thinking that I can use some more spring now...
Curious if people are running 400#'s and higher on their PSS9's (ok with the valving)...
Scott, you still around? From your sig, you seem to have ventured into Ohlins...
I'm still have the 350's up front, with no change in the rear (340 linear, as provided by Bilstein)...
I don't feel any need for a change in the back, ie going with a heavier spring. With the *** end even lighter than before, it comes around nicely. Up front though, I am contemplating a stiffer spring rate. At some point I decided to remove my front sway bar. I first disco'd and drove that way for many weeks. I found this desirable (better traction in general, corner exit especially). There's a thread here, somewhere (it was not my idea). So, I'm thinking that I can use some more spring now...
Curious if people are running 400#'s and higher on their PSS9's (ok with the valving)...
Scott, you still around? From your sig, you seem to have ventured into Ohlins...
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