Suspension Not Sure What Happened
Not Sure What Happened
I had the Ire. Fixed plates installed about two months ago and finally got around to getting an alignment done today and was I suprised by the numbers!
Ihad the local Goodyear Tire store do the alignment cause they had an immediate opening and the tech seemed humble and interested in what I wanted for settings beyond or instead of what the factory settings called for.
Here's what we found:
LF: RF: LR: RR:
Camber -2.3 -1.7 -1.6 -2.1
Caster 4.4 3.8
Toe 0.79 0.72 0.25 0.15
Quite a measurable difference between the cambers in front, though the fixed plates were installed, perhaps improperly, that's the only guess I have. I trust the company that installed them, just wondering where the problem is.
Goodyear did not have the proper special tools to change the toe in the rear so we felt we reached an happy medium by changing the rear to -1.9 camber and that gave us toe of 0.26 on the left rear and 0.11 on the right rear. I'll have to have these changed when I find a shop with the proper tools later (suggestion?).
We were able to change the front toe RF & LF to match at 0.16 at the end of it all.
I am concerned most about the two front struts camber difference. Not bad if I'm turning left all the time on a circle track but I'm mostly street driving. Any suggestions folks?
Thanks,
Paul
HEY LOOK - MY 500th POST!
Ihad the local Goodyear Tire store do the alignment cause they had an immediate opening and the tech seemed humble and interested in what I wanted for settings beyond or instead of what the factory settings called for.
Here's what we found:
LF: RF: LR: RR:
Camber -2.3 -1.7 -1.6 -2.1
Caster 4.4 3.8
Toe 0.79 0.72 0.25 0.15
Quite a measurable difference between the cambers in front, though the fixed plates were installed, perhaps improperly, that's the only guess I have. I trust the company that installed them, just wondering where the problem is.
Goodyear did not have the proper special tools to change the toe in the rear so we felt we reached an happy medium by changing the rear to -1.9 camber and that gave us toe of 0.26 on the left rear and 0.11 on the right rear. I'll have to have these changed when I find a shop with the proper tools later (suggestion?).
We were able to change the front toe RF & LF to match at 0.16 at the end of it all.
I am concerned most about the two front struts camber difference. Not bad if I'm turning left all the time on a circle track but I'm mostly street driving. Any suggestions folks?
Thanks,
Paul
HEY LOOK - MY 500th POST!
My guess is that you have some mushrooming or other damage up front... If the fixed plates were installed improperly, it'd be a lot different than what it is now. It's possible that the fixed plates weren't made correctly, I reckon...
Is the ride height significantly difference on the LF? The most difference we've seen side-to-side with the fixed plates is about 0.2 degrees...
Is the ride height significantly difference on the LF? The most difference we've seen side-to-side with the fixed plates is about 0.2 degrees...
I’m curious as to what special tools are needed to set rear toe because all it takes is a socket on an extension.
As txwerks says, look for damage, and be sure both struts are fully seated within the steering knuckle. If the spring on the driver’s side were binding then I would expect to see less camber on that side and not the opposite. On that note it’s a surprise that you haven’t mentioned binding with the H-Sport springs at that camber setting.
As txwerks says, look for damage, and be sure both struts are fully seated within the steering knuckle. If the spring on the driver’s side were binding then I would expect to see less camber on that side and not the opposite. On that note it’s a surprise that you haven’t mentioned binding with the H-Sport springs at that camber setting.
Should have gone with adjustable plates, and 4 rear control arms. I was able to get exactly: front camber -2.0º, toe 0.05º; rear camber -1.6º, toe 0.05º
there was a slight difference in front caster, about 0.8º, something the Alta positive steering responce thing will fix.
there was a slight difference in front caster, about 0.8º, something the Alta positive steering responce thing will fix.
My guess is that you have some mushrooming or other damage up front... If the fixed plates were installed improperly, it'd be a lot different than what it is now. It's possible that the fixed plates weren't made correctly, I reckon...
Is the ride height significantly difference on the LF? The most difference we've seen side-to-side with the fixed plates is about 0.2 degrees...
Is the ride height significantly difference on the LF? The most difference we've seen side-to-side with the fixed plates is about 0.2 degrees...
Yes, I should have gone with the adjustable and may also add two more adjustable bars in back to the two Ireland bars I have on the bottom.
Should I take the front left strut off and check it out?
Paul
I’m curious as to what special tools are needed to set rear toe because all it takes is a socket on an extension.
As txwerks says, look for damage, and be sure both struts are fully seated within the steering knuckle. If the spring on the driver’s side were binding then I would expect to see less camber on that side and not the opposite. On that note it’s a surprise that you haven’t mentioned binding with the H-Sport springs at that camber setting.
As txwerks says, look for damage, and be sure both struts are fully seated within the steering knuckle. If the spring on the driver’s side were binding then I would expect to see less camber on that side and not the opposite. On that note it’s a surprise that you haven’t mentioned binding with the H-Sport springs at that camber setting.
I may run my car down to someone in the Los Angeles area and have them check it out in a week just before the AMVIV.
Paul
The trailing arm attaches to a bushing carried in a bracket, the bracket has slotted mounting points for the chassis, moving the bracket to the outside or inside will alter toe.

It can be frustrating to adjust toe with these mounting bolts because when one bolt is tightened it tends to move the bracket; after you test the direction it tends to take you can adjust for that behavior or accept a compromise. The shop may have been referring to a tool that holds the bolt position after it uses a cam like action when turned to move the bracket, this tool is more trouble than striking the wheel or trailing arm to get movement so don’t waist time trying to locate one.
It can be frustrating to adjust toe with these mounting bolts because when one bolt is tightened it tends to move the bracket; after you test the direction it tends to take you can adjust for that behavior or accept a compromise. The shop may have been referring to a tool that holds the bolt position after it uses a cam like action when turned to move the bracket, this tool is more trouble than striking the wheel or trailing arm to get movement so don’t waist time trying to locate one.
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DIFFERENT ALIGNMENT SHOP?
Paul-call me when you can-I would suggest another look at the settings before you accept them as accurate. those are quite a bit different than what we are seeing on the other cars. now IF the r/f was -2.3 and the lf was -1.7, it would be more normal. My car is lf-1.55, rf - 1.92 anbd naother car recntly done was lf -1.74 and rf - 2.22.
also, It seems with those numbers, assuming they are accurate, your car should have a "PULL" TO THE LEFT!
also, It seems with those numbers, assuming they are accurate, your car should have a "PULL" TO THE LEFT!
Last edited by Central Coast Coopers; Mar 8, 2007 at 09:31 PM.
Paul-call me when you can-I would suggest another look at the settings before you accept them as accurate. those are quite a bit different than what we are seeing on the other cars. now IF the r/f was -2.3 and the lf was -1.7, it would be more normal. My car is lf-1.55, rf - 1.92 anbd naother car recntly done was lf -1.74 and rf - 2.22.
also, It seems with those numbers, assuming they are accurate, your car should have a "PULL" TO THE LEFT!
also, It seems with those numbers, assuming they are accurate, your car should have a "PULL" TO THE LEFT!
It hasn't ever pulled to the left, and the toe in was high before adjustment.
I'll call you on Monday. What day are you leaving for AMVIV?
Paul
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