I'm considering installing H-sports lowering springs, adjustable rear control arms and possibly FSDs, however, have concerns regarding the dreaded mushrooming. Running 40 series tires on 17in rims. I've read posts that recommend either or both STR plates or the fixed camber plates to prevent the 'shrooming. Need your opinions. Thanks.

 

I would go with the M7 STB forsure and if you can aford the camber plates they help a lot too.

 

Why not both?
They each accomplish something so go for broke, or at least head toward being broke.

I have both and yup, I'm currently broke.

Paul

 

i have the rdr/helix camber plates. these things are massive and well engineered. i have camber adjustability and don't have to worry about 'shrooming. one product solves two issues.

 

Ditto the props for the RDR/Helix adjustable camber plates (in particular). And, in general, if I were only able to do it one step at a time, then the first thing I'd do is get camber plates installed. Then, down the road, a proper strut brace (or SRPs). For my GP, we did the camber plates and a GTT strut brace (yes, my GP did some mushrooming on the driver's side while driving it home from Monterey on MTTS).

 

I love my m7 stb. It is so very well made, it's almost a piece of artwork.

But whatever you choose, just do SOMETHING. Some protection against mushrooming is better than nothing.

 

I think camber plates are a better way to prevent mushrooming. Your putting the mass below the impact. Installation is more difficult and your going to need an alignment afterwords so it will be more expensive. With camber plates, as others have said you get the benefit of increased camber in the front which the MINI likes. Be careful with your selection as some can change front ride height and or ride quality. Best configuration would be to do both top and bottom. Hope this helps, Steve

 

Maybe consider both?

The Ireland Engineering fixed camber plates are only $180.

 

Do the Ireland units change/raise ride height,any one using them with stock springs/shocks?

 

Both would be best, either will help. I got the STR plates because I didn't see myself getting camber plates for awhile.

 

Are you saying that with the M7 plates you need to have an alignment after installation, or am I misunderstanding? I just received the M7 plates, but haven't installed them yet and would like to know if that is required.

 

A alignment is not required after installing either the strut tower brace or the reinforcment plates. The install should be a 15 min job at the most. Call me at 818 497 4341 between 10 am and 11 pm pst ANY day if you have questions .

Randy
M7 Tuning

 

because the improved neg front camber will dial out some understeer, and also improve tire lifetimes. But like many have said, using both will be the best of all worlds.

FWIW, I ran RDRs for a long time, and even though I had a lot of bottoming of the suspension, I only have the very slightest of mushrooming.

Matt

 

The plates are the easiest mod you can do under the bonnet. Remove the 3 nuts on the top of the strut tower, put plate on, put nuts back on.

Eazy cheezy

 

Just get the whole thing it is only $99 buck more and it looks great. I'm glad I didn't mine when I did because even with only 12k miles my Mini was mushrooming. If I would have waited any longer there would have been impossible to install the plates.
M

 

I'm going to start off with the M7 SRPs. I put those on my Christmas wish list this year, so I can't order them until after the holidays. I'd like to get camber plates too...but will these affect tire wear? The camber plates will have to wait until I get the car back to the lower 48...there's no way I'd ever trust any of the alignment shops in Alaska with my precious baby...

 

No (change to ride height with stock springs/shocks).

 

In isolation (meaning no crappy roads), I would agree with the no need to align the car. However, with the best-of-breed road conditions in the S.F. bay area (and the rains are starting, so the road conditions will only get better...), an alignment is almost a must to correct the affects of the road conditions on the suspension. I never thought that toe could be screwed up by road conditions, but I learned something new....

 

Periodic checks in that type of environment is always a good idea. I was referring to the need to realign just because of the plate install which is not a requirement.

Randy
M7 Tuning

 

Thanks for your input,after the holidays install.

 

05DSMCS
With the M7 plates an alignment is not required but if you added camber plates you would need an alignment.
Steve

 

I just finished installing the M7 Strut bar and plates. My towers were slightly mushroomed. I was able to screw the plate on, but I used the old bolts and plates to help re-straighted the towers. I did this slowly and heard some metal creaking as I slowly tightened the bolts. I torqued the bolts down to 25 ft pounds and attached the bar. I am concerned that the plates are held in place but slightly under stress from the mushroomed towers.

I would appreciate any input from folks here as well as the expertise of Randy at M7.

 

The fact that you were able to get the nuts torqued down with out stripping them is a good sign. To me it shows that you were correct in assuming that the mushroom was of the slight variety. As the majority of the forces will be pushing up to the nut and not pulling down there should be no issues. To be sure you could mark a line across each nut and the nearest sheet metal to make sure they are not backing off. A periodic check would not be a bad idea either . Keep in touch and congragulations on the install.

Randy
M7 Tuning

 

I would also reccommend that you re-torque the nuts after a drive in. Steve

 

Thanks for the advice. I took the bar and plates off and I will try the 2X4 and hammer technique. I will keep re-install the nuts without the plates and lift the front of the car and carefully flatten the towers. I really did not want to stress the plates. They were deflected about 1 to 2 mm. Then I will re-install the plates and bar. Do anyone have any tips on this procedure without having to dis-assemble the shock assembly?