I am planning to install H&R and koni yellows sometime soon.
It does sound a bit time consuming to novices but I have decided not to spend $400 to installation..

Here are my concerns tho..

1) Will I have to re-use some of my stock shock's? If yes, which parts do I have to disassemble from the stock setup?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...95&hg=31&fg=10

2) I have seen something about drilling holes in the rear and such, is that really necessary?

3) Is spring compressor dangerous to use??


Sigh, Novice.. eh?
Well, thank you guys in advance

 

just take your time. The rears are real easy, and the fronts aren't bad...

I didn't even use a spring compressor, I just used some ratcheting canvass straps (needed to do something, and I couldn't drive to get a spring compressor as the suspension was all over the driveway!). For most aftermarket springs, you don't need a spring compressor to get them on, as the springs are (usually) shorter.

But if you do go the spring compressor route, remeber the ones in the front are bee-hive shaped, and I don't think thats' the case in the rear.... But it's been a while....

Matt

PS, usually it's the top spring perches that you have to re-use.

 

Here is a complete review/how-to for yellow Koni/H&R springs:

http://store.webbmotorsports.com/for...topic.php?t=22

http://store.webbmotorsports.com/for...topic.php?t=13

You will have to do some drilling for the rear shocks.

Mickey

 

sprp85 I am considering doing a very similar install on my 05 MCS, except I am installing KONI FSD's with stock springs. I have been researching this install for a few weeks now, and it seems like everyone references the same install-thread here on NAM, but the pictures have all been removed!

Please take lots of pictures during your install, and some good notes, as yours will be the only one with pics!

I plan on installing my KONI FSD's in about a week, and I will do the same.

Oh and FWIW:

1) Will I have to re-use some of my stock shock's? If yes, which parts do I have to disassemble from the stock setup?

I am pretty sure you have to resuse the spring hats, and possibly the bump stops (though if you are installing lowering springs, they should come with shorter bump stops). Obviously the hardware would be reused.

2) I have seen something about drilling holes in the rear and such, is that really necessary?

I haven't heard about this yet, I am going to go look into it... maybe this is just for the KONI yellows??

3) Is spring compressor dangerous to use??

I have always been told to be VERY careful around spring compressors. The springs store a LOT of energy, and if you aren't careful, they can do a lot of damage... However... several sources have stated that the MINI springs are just barely compressed once the struts are out of the car, and you can possibly just lean on them to compress them enough to get the spring hat off... but like I said, I haven't done this install yet, so I am going by heresay.

I think this install is fairly straight forward once you take care of the drivers side front strut (which by all accounts is PITA). I'll post my install procedure as a PDF sometime in a week or so...

Finally, does anyone know of a replacement spring that DOESN'T lower the car? Something progressively wound, but stock height? Thanx.

ciao4now
RM2k5

 

This might help a little more.
Shows pics of H-Sport spring install for front and rear.

http://engr.smu.edu/rcam/cpm3v/minis...isprings_1.htm

 

If you live close to a Harbor Freight check out their spring compressors (clamps), they work fine (I used them twice on my car). They also carry the racing jack that many of us on this forum have in our garage...

 

Great link! Those are the pictures I needed!

Thanks!
RM2k5

 

You don't need to drill anything to install FSD's. If you want to adjust the yellows without removing them, you'll have to hack apart some trim and drill a rather large hole in the sheel metal.

 

Thank you all for posting!!

Mine is yellows and won't be installing right away since winter is near (plus, I am thinking about waiting til I get control arms, end links, camber etc... which aren't necessary.. )

So the parts that I will have to re-use from stock set are hats and some screws/ bolts, correct? Sounds less painful.

And the drilling thinge, Randy webb's page seems like drilling is REQUIRED to install the rears even if you are willing to take them off for adjustments later on. (correct me if i am wrong please.)

All the others seems to be pretty straight forward then..

 

Oh ya, been a while since I installed yellows in anything... because they have the adjustment shaft inside of the damper shaft, the shaft on the yellows is BIG. In fact, bigger than the FSD's. This means that you are going to have to drill larger holes in most of the hardware, but not the body of the car.

 

It looks like the backs are much easier then the fronts. I'm thinking of doing the backs then tale it to the shop for the fronts may save a few beer credits.

 

There you go, it's all about making the larger shaft fit through the stock hardware - nothing to do with making damper adjustments.

 

Hey folks,

I am just about to start installing the KONI FSD's in my '05 MCS! Wish me luck!

I'll post progress thru the day...

RM2k5

 

Alrighty!

 

not if you're careful and have a decent one (I use the Craftsman forged ones)

 

So I started the strut install at 8am this morning, and I was completely finished and cleaned up by 1pm!

The install went pretty well, the first one was the hardest (as it always is!) but after my friend showed up with his impact wrench, things went a lot faster! I will post an install-procedure with pics sometime next week...

The install wasn't bad at all, and I would rate it as a 3 out of 5 in difficulty (five being the hardest). I think any relatively technically adept person could do it...

I am looking for the torque-specifications for the struts... right now they are Gut-N-Tite (german torque spec), but I want to check them again next week after they have settled a bit.

But for now I can say that the Koni FSD's definitely improve the ride quality! I drove about an hour on the highway and I am definitely impressed... still sporty, but smoother.

ciao4now
RM2k5

 

Of course you know that every shop book, to include the Bentley book says not to use an impact to take the struts/shock apart or put them back together either. Of course every shop I've ever seen do struts and shocks uses an impact I will use mine also, but only to a point and then switch to a torque wrench.

For the other folks out there that haven't played with this S&S's yet, it is a rather easy to swap out these items for 3 out of the 4 wheels. The driver's front seems to be the most difficult one to remove from the car. The passenger front will almost fall out of the pinch fitting on the lower steering knuckle, while the driver's side causes me untold amounts of cussing. This is the one I have to use a compressor on with the strut in still the car. BTW, I don't remove any ball joints so an alignment isn't necessary after the install.

For the disassembly of the struts and shocks, I don't use a compressor if I have another person here to help hold down on the spring, so that the release is controlled. They also come in handy when compressing the spring during the assembly

The only difficult part on the assembly is the Center strut/shock retaining nut. The one that holds the strut/shock rod to the bearing plate (fronts) or for the rears the support plate. This nut needs to be torqued and the rod will want to turn unless it's held in place with an Allen Wrench, so it's tough to get a socket on a nut while an Allen wrench is sticking out of it. I use a crows-foot, but make sure it is approx 90 degrees from the handle of the wrench. That way the torque value isn't increased.

Here are the torque values from the 04 TIS & Bentley Book:

Front:
Strut rod to bearing plate: 64 Nm or 47 ft-lb
Bearing plate to body: 34 Nm or 25 ft-lb
Stab Bar link to strut: 56 Nm or 41 ft-lb
Steering knuckle pinch bolt: 81 Nm or 60 ft-lb

Rears:
Shock rod to support plate: 30 Nm or 22 ft-lb
Support plate to body: 56 Nm or 41 ft-lb
Shock to trailing arm: 140 Nm or 103 ft-lb

The book also recommends that all self-locking bolts & nuts be replaced, not reused. While I think that's overkill, the decision is yours.

 

>Of course you know that every shop book, to include the Bentley book says >not to use an impact to take the struts/shock apart or put them back >together either.

This is a good point... I only used the impact wrench to disassemble the old struts, I used a torque wrench to install the new ones.

> The driver's front seems to be the most difficult one to remove from the >car. The passenger front will almost fall out of the pinch fitting on the lower >steering knuckle, while the driver's side causes me untold amounts of >cussing.

Everyone says this, but I did not have this experience, my drivers side strut fell out as well! I'm not sure what was different, but I can tell you it was nice and easy!

>For the disassembly of the struts and shocks, I don't use a compressor if I >have another person here to help hold down on the spring, so that the >release is controlled. They also come in handy when compressing the spring >during the assembly

I agree... the springs are so small, and they are so barely compressed that a spring compressor is not worth the trouble. You could just as easily have a friend hold them down (this is NOT the safest way to do it however, and I DID use a spring compressor)

>The only difficult part on the assembly is the Center strut/shock retaining >nut. The one that holds the strut/shock rod to the bearing plate (fronts) or >for the rears the support plate. This nut needs to be torqued and the rod >will want to turn unless it's held in place with an Allen Wrench, so it's tough >to get a socket on a nut while an Allen wrench is sticking out of it. I use a >crows-foot, but make sure it is approx 90 degrees from the handle of the >wrench. That way the torque value isn't increased.

This is a good point. This nut was very tough to get at... I was able to squeeze a 15/16th spark-plug socket over the nut, and then use the exterior-flats on this socket to tighten the nut. A crows foot would work great for this technique.

>Here are the torque values from the 04 TIS & Bentley Book:

Thanks!

>The book also recommends that all self-locking bolts & nuts be replaced, >not reused. While I think that's overkill, the decision is yours.

Hmmm. Interesting. I think I'll resuse mine since they were all in as-new condition... but if they were not-so-good I would definitely replace them.

Thanks!
RM2k5

 

No problem........ It was a good refresher to get back into the book and since I put a MCS RSB on a friends Cooper yesterday and relubed the bushings on my RSB this morning some of the rear numbers came in handy

 

Hi Folks,

I just wanted to update everyone since the install on Friday...

The weather in NE is been nasty for the past few days, so I can't comment too much on improvements in absolute grip, body roll, etc.

I CAN however comment on the improved ride quality... I'm pleased to say that I no longer notice the ride quality What I mean to say is that the KONI FSD's are not a HUGE change, the are a nice, solid, incremental improvement in ride quality.

The roads are still rough, the the car no longer shudders or groans on impact. The impacts are much better damped... I used to notice the abuse I was taking (especially when the car was cold) and now I just don't notice. My 05 MCS just rolls along as I thought it was supposed to.

Overall things look great, no downsides here!

ciao
RM2k5

 

I just received a set of FSDs today! I plan on installing this weekend.

Anyone have any new info/tips/recommendations for installing FSDs?


Thanks

 

Be sure to bring plenty of BEER! And not the cheap stuff! No Bud, Miller or Coors products allowed in my garage! No home brews either! And don't bring any relatives as all they do is break bolts!

 

It porters and stouts for me! Newcastle is my cheap beer.

 

FSDs are in!!!!

UNBELIEVABLE. We just couldn't believe the change. My friend is sad now. He still has run flats on his car. After driving mine with non run flat winter tires, he was already talking about getting new tires. Then, after we got everything together, the non run flat/FSD combo was simply amazing. He wants to mod his to autoX, but now he a couple of other things to consider.

Freeway sections, like southbound Cedar Ave in the left lane, are just not an issue anymore. Same with 35E south from Saint Paul to the river bridge. I plan to do an EBLR run this week some time to see how the do in hard cornering.

Installation:
After we figured out how to compress the springs, everything went really smooth. My friend had some hook compressors, but since the front springs are really short, the compressors wouldn't work. We wasted 2 hours looking for some prong type compressors, but nobody had them. In the end, I modified some ratcheting tie downs. They worked great on both fronts and rears. We used two tie downs for each spring. The only other slowdown was the upper control arm nut, the one with the allen in the middle. There has to be a better way than an allen wrench with a combo wrench. We guess that it took us 3-4 hours learning how to do it. Next time, we should be able to knock it out in under 2. Maybe we'll open a MINI suspension shop.

Sorry, no pictures. My wife took her digital camera to an orchid show.


One extremely happy MCS driver.