Suspension Springs, struts, coilovers, sway-bars, camber plates, and all other modifications to suspension components for Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.

Suspension Shock Install Problem

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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 08:04 AM
  #1  
headhog1's Avatar
headhog1
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Shock Install Problem

I ran into a problem while installing Koni FSD shocks on the front of my 06 MCS. The rear installation is no problem.

Many people have installed Konis and suggested the following method:
1. Remove the swaybar droplink from the strut using a 16mm wrench and 5mm allen key to hold the bolt stationary. You will probably need to keep some compression on the suspension to get the bolt out. 2. Take the brake and sensor lines off the strut. 3. Remove the lower pinch-bolt that attaches the strut to the hub carrier. 4. The hub carrier is now free to move down away from the shock housing. 5. Remove the top three mounting nuts in the engine compartment. 6. Catch the strut assembly as it falls out.

I am happy for those lucky ones that are able to use this technique. But I get stuck at step 4. The hub carrier will not move down far enough to get the shock housing out. I guess for some Minis this technique works, and others it does not. The official BMW/MINI instructions are to undo the balljoint from the base of the hub carrier to allow for the needed travel

Another technique is to compress the shock while it is still on the car using a floor jack and then strap the springs in their compressed state. This should allow you to remove the strut. I am going to try this next since I don’t have a balljoint tool.

I just wanted to post my experience so others will be better prepared if they plan on installing new shocks.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 08:12 AM
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Dr Obnxs
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I have an 02...

and I used the canvass strap method, and a little coersion.... It will come, but the driver front corner is the only tough one.

Also, some tugging may give you a little more room...

It's only a bit*h the first time....

Matt
 
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 08:19 AM
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Just give that hub a good hard downward kick with the bottom of your foot. It always works for me.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 08:30 AM
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i used a small piece of wood and a mallet and tapped it down.

then grabbed the rotor, turned it cw/ccw a little and the struct
collapsed off the car. not sure about those new dampers, but
the stockers were not hard to remove/install.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 08:43 AM
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If you can, popping the two joints on the bottom will definitely get it out. This requires certain tools but it definitely saves time and energy from kicking, cursing, yanking, spitting, and more cursing to get that damn thing out.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 08:46 AM
  #6  
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Dr Obnxs
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I love all the

delicate techniques and procedures used on our fine precision autos!

Matt
 
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 09:03 AM
  #7  
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From: A street address or space indexing system.
I used a jack to hold it in place, then let the strut fall out. Same with the re-installation
 
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 09:08 AM
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I did mine a few weekends ago. The driver side I got out by compressing the spring, but I tried the same with the passenger side and it wouldn't work. The passenger side I had to break the joints loose to free the hub and then it was no problem. Mine is an '05 auto so I don't know if that makes a difference or not. The new struts and springs were easier to put in.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 09:25 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by weezer2282
I did mine a few weekends ago. The driver side I got out by compressing the spring, but I tried the same with the passenger side and it wouldn't work. The passenger side I had to break the joints loose to free the hub and then it was no problem. Mine is an '05 auto so I don't know if that makes a difference or not. The new struts and springs were easier to put in.
I got driver side out without even compressing the spring..... I have no idea why this side likes to come out so much easier thant he passenger side. I did this exact same thing last week and it was a cinch.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 11:30 AM
  #10  
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Just drop the ball joint. All you need is the 15mm wrench and a jack to support the knuckle once it comes off.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 12:04 PM
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No need to pop any joints. Just disconnect the arm from the hub by removingt the two 13mm bolts underneath the joint. Use a pry bar to seperate the hub from the arm. A sharp blow with a mallet will do it also. Now you will have plenty of room.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 12:58 PM
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I had the same issue - I am doing my FSDs right now. I lowered the subframe about 1" and got it out. I needed to lower the subframe anyway as I am also doing powerfelx control arm bushings. I am snapping some pictures. Doing the bushings is not for the faint of heart.
Wes
 
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 12:59 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Wesport
I had the same issue - I am doing my FSDs right now. I lowered the subframe about 1" and got it out. I needed to lower the subframe anyway as I am also doing powerfelx control arm bushings. I am snapping some pictures. Doing the bushings is not for the faint of heart.
Wes
Bushings SUCK!
 
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by JCampos
Bushings SUCK!
They aren't too bad with the right tools.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 04:15 PM
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Never done MINI bushings but I hated doing them on E36 M3s.... They arent necessarily hard to do, just a pain in the ****! I definitely had all the right tools... including a shop and a lift
 
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 04:22 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by JCampos
Never done MINI bushings but I hated doing them on E36 M3s.... They arent necessarily hard to do, just a pain in the ****! I definitely had all the right tools... including a shop and a lift
I've done a couple sets on mini's. There are some things to look out for if you leave the subframe in, but it can be done. I haven't decided if which is quicker, subframe in or out.

I have a set of powerflex cheap if you want them.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 04:24 PM
  #17  
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I should be ok for now but Ill let you know if I change my mind. Ill be under the car on Tuesday or Wednesday and ill take a look at them all while im under there.
 
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