Indeed, when you've had what you think is a *perfect* lap it is hard to think of "How could i have done better"

Was anyone there running faster laps that you were ?
Why - 3x times more horsepower or just s little bit better line here and there ?

In AutoCross you might need a rear sway bar if you can't get the car to rotate using tire pressure or driving technique for the way you drive.

It sort of boils down to how you drive and what you want the car to do more OR less of ?

I added the 22mm Solid Rear bar on the stiff setting and a 27mm solid front bar, the car doesn't understeer as much as it used to with better turn-in
But that's with me driving.
Someone who can make the car oversteer with Tire and technique might think i $%& it all up - But i like it this way and it suits my driving technique so far...

Good Luck - Have fun - Keep the Shinny Side Up !

 

The Quick Fit is not an anti sub belt. It is a bit of a controversy in some club DEs, many of them being chapters of BMWCCA. The concerns are valid.
These belts are only a four point belt with an expansion joint on the inside shoulder belt. In a collision this expansion joint loosens the shoulder strap, so if a secondary collision happens, which is very common i.e. roll over, then the driver is no longer strapped in the way he needs to be.
The other concern is submarine, being there is no fifth point, or sub strap, this in fact seems a likely concern.
It's a bit of a dilemma being that Joe is both the importer of Schroth and a great supporter and sponsor of BMWCCA.

 

http://english.schroth.com/tuning/technology/asm.php
asm®
The patented SCHROTH asm® system offers an unique safety advantage for 4-point harnesses. asm® is the acronym for anti submarining. The risk to submarine (sliding underneath the lap belt), a well known phenomenon during frontal impacts, is significantly reduced by the asm® safety system. The energy converter is located in the inboard shoulder belt. Therefore make sure you purchase left and/or right harnesses.
Severe injuries or death are possible using 4-point harnesses without the SCHROTH asm® safety system or an anti-sub strap. SCHROTH harnesses designed for use on public roads (FE push button models) or those likely to be used as 4-points come with the asm® safety system. The performance of the SCHROTH asm® safety system has also been positively tested in conjunction with airbags. Current Head And Neck Supports (HANS®) provide further reduction of head deceleration and neck injury. All SCHROTH racing models likely to be used with any head and neck devices come without the asm® system.
Racing harnesses without asm® must be worn with an anti-sub strap!

 

i agree with techno99. Learn to drive the hard way, and then when you get your car set up, you will learn to drive it with the mods faster, and will be a far better driver. I have made a habit out of learning everything the hard way (started off unitentional, its just a gift i have, hahah). I take the same stretch of twisties almost every day, when i first got my summer tires on (never drove the car on them, got the car in december, and hardly drove it in the winter anyway), i was at the cars "limit" at about 50km/h with screaming tires (this was around april by the way), now i take the same corner at about 80 km/h, and the tires are silent, or just on the edge of becoming vocal, depending on if im having an off day or not (sometimes im not in the zone, but i sure was a couple weeks ago when i had a jcw right behing me, a couple other very modded s's, a corvette and a ferrari chasing me, and they commented on how fast my car was running, and its onlya cooper i havnt done any engine mods , and no major suspension mods (just endlinks and rear stress bar), and the car is right on the virdge of understeering. The corner in particular is a about a 100 degree right hander with about a 15 foot radius (mind you i appex it, so i dont know how big my driving radius is). I can push it a bit harder in the other direction, not sure if that is the way the corner is, and i have a better sight line, so better drive line, or if it is because i think my sway bar is slightly preloaded. Im on stock runflats as well, 16inch wheels. I would spend you money on track time, not mods, long story short...


Beecher

 

Id recommend keeping the learning to the track. Your daily commute is not the place to be "teaching" youself the limit.

 

I think you guys all make the same valid point, it's too bad though that I usually have only one chance per year to practice, this year we'll have a second chance on Sept 30th, not enough to practice and improve.
I checked with BMW and they only have one event 2000 miles East of where I live and the other one is in Vancouver and that's a 12 hour drive and they are both booked solid every year, way too far anyway.
Then there's one with the BMW Clubs of Alberta but that was on May 26 and 27, the next one is for ladies only later in the year, basically we don't have much in Edmonton, Alberta.
My best option will be to take a driving course in the US as my winter holiday but it will not be in my own car and use the new technique on my next track time and see if I improved, the thing is we can’t use a clock and don’t know if we get better or not, some kind of a rule they have, we’re basically renting the track but are not allowed to pass or use the clock, so it’s still better than nothing but not very competitive, if I was to buy one of them go-kart then I would be able to practice as often as I want but they don’t have very many car events, as far as I know there is only these 2 car events with the SVT Ford club and they need 23 cars to break even and are having a though time to fill up.

 

Perhaps autocross would help feed your need?

A quick google search came up with this:
http://www.telusplanet.net/~jamiefox

There are probably some other clubs that do autocrossing in the area too.

 

i know i shouldnt be driving like that on public roads, but i live in the country, and that particular curve is on a road that is rarely used (only see a couple cars a week on it, other than me). I know, i know, thats no excuse, but thats my story anyway.

Beecher

 

My post was meant for zrwon, not you Beecher. But, if it gets you into a safer environment to play, that's cool.

 

I'm pissed!!! took my car for a wheel alignment because I had installed PSS9 and still haven't got the alignment done, well first of all there is not one shop that knows what corner balance means.
The guy didn't know anything about the MINI, I had to show him everything, he checked my rear camber and it was -2.5 on the right and -2.3 on the left, he was going to touch it, I said that's what I want, rear toe was zero, again I said it's fine.
Front camber was only -0.5 L and -0.3 R, I don't have camber plate, so there's nothing he could do, but the toe he checked it with a measuring tape, not the computer and said it was 1/16" in and I wanted 1/16" out, so he played with it and with the stupid measuring tape, he said it was 1/8" out, I said leave it and I'll try it out, turns out $70 later, I now have a steering that is no longer straight while driving in a straight line and if I take my hands off, it pulls hard to the right, it was much better before, now I need to take it back, lose another half day of work without pay and who knows how bad it will be. I do all my own work and this, I could have done the same myself and at least if it didn't work, I would reverse what I had done and it would be back to normal.
Living in a city of morrons that don't know anything about cars can be very frustrating.
I didn't know I could get this much rear camber by simply installing the PSS9, I didn't even touch the camber at all and it went to -2.5 by lowering the car 3/4", too bad the front didn't do the same thing.

 

Who makes and sell the best camber plate right now?

 

from what I can tell, the helix look the best.

 

Helix (I use them) or H-Sport.

 

So who has the best price on Helix Camber plate?
So far all I find is $499, if you guys heard of anything cheaper, I'm all for it.
Thanks for the replies.

 

Al - Given that this car is not a daily driver and you want to set it up for Stratotech Park, here is what I would do in this order:

1. Front camber plates in order to get more camber.
2. Adjustable rear sway bar, 22mm or equivalent.
3. 15% SC pulley is excellent bang for the buck.
4. Race rubber mounted on 15x7 wheels to take advantage of shorter gearing/quicker acceleration.
5. intake, exhaust and header as budget allows.

Matt

 

Looks like they're $449 on their site. Mighty tempting...

 

Thanks Matt, that's what I had been told and am planning to do with one more thing, I would like the under strut kit from M7 because my car is a convertible and that looks like a good set up.
I'm also thinking turbo after talking to Randy Webb, but that's another story.

 

I looked at their site last night and saw Special but didn't see the $449, thanks, I'll check it out again.

 

I would put any kind of front/rear/strut/undertray brace as priority #5 or lower on that list. IMO, the other items will give you more benefit.

 

I have 2 sets of headers, I think I'll use the OBX, the other one is only 2.25" while the OBX is 2.5", as you know I have the PSS9, tonight I ordered the camber plate from Helix and the 22 mm rear sway bar, as far as wheel and tires, I have 3 full sets and they are all 17", I'll keep my eyes open on smaller used wheels on ebay, I might get the stage 1 brake kit from Helix also and for exhaust, I'm still waiting for Randy Webb's system with the valve, if not, I'm not sure what I will do.
As far as engine mods, I will wait till next winter because if I decide to go twin charge, I'll have to get rid of anything I would install now even the 15% would have to go.
I want it to handle and stop first, then I'll have to decide.
Right now I need to find someone who knows how to do a wheel alignment properly.

 

I would do Brakes now. I would put brakes as second behind a 22mm rear bar. On the track you will destroy your factory brakes if you push it. Mine did not finish 4 sessions before I was into the rotors (8000 miles at the time). At least get better pads all around (I like Hawk HPS), brass bushings (a must in my opinion for track use) and better brake fluid (Motul is my favorite). Get steel lines if you want to get the pedal off the floor - this helps with heal and toe a lot. I ended up going with a Willwood BBK in front that would fit under 16" wheels. The smaller wheels 16 or 15 are highly recomende with short tires (I run 40 series on 16") the gearing advantage picked up will be greater than the advanbtage from a pulley or exaust. off course I would do those also - but after the brakes.
Wes

 

Thanks for the advice, I'll make sure it's all done before the next event.

 

Hi All,
I am going to take my Mini to the track this summer. Howpfully to 2 or 3 events. My husband and I will both be driving it. He has a 997 911 Carerra S. He wants to track the Mini cause it will be MUCH cheaper than the 911. However, he is a really advanced driver and i was afraid he would...well kill my Mini
How have your Minis held up at the track. I know a lot of you have modified yours. I have a JCW stock. I am prolly gonna get track pads, sport springs, and maybe better tires (S02s)and one day (not this year) track seats. The JCW is already in VERY sports and the turn in is awesome. I dont think i need to do anything else to it to have fun at the track.

Any comments or advice??

 

The car will hold up great and perform far better than you might expect. I strongly recomend pads and brass caliper bushings. Tires is also a great idea. The motor and suspension do not need anything to go have fun with. A big rear bar will help neutrilize the handeling balance better, but is not essential.

 

The car will hold well. If you have JCW brakes, pad options are only custom made. The pads will be fine for a few sessions. Just get some better tires and lighter wheels and you will be sorted out. You can get the schroth harnesses too to keep you in place.