Suspension Do you want compression adjustable shocks?
Do you want compression adjustable shocks?
I want compression adjustable shocks for my '05 MCS. I don't think anyone makes them unless I go with coilovers. And I don't want to go the coilover route. I used Koni's that were compression adjustable on my '77 Datsun 280Z and I really liked them. But the Koni's for the Mini are rebound adjustable and the FSD's are not adjustable. I used Tokico Illumina with compression adjusters on my '89 Honda Civic Hatchback Si along with Jackson Racing springs and swaybars. That car was one of the best handling cars I have ever owned and I could adjust it to suit any condition in less then five minutes. From Caddy smooth on the soft setting to race car stiff on the hard setting. On the local coastal canyons I could keep up with cars that cost ten times more then mine . And that pi$$ed a lot of people off!
Tokico adjustable Illumina shocks along with H-sport adjustable sway bars, front and rear and H-sport springs would be an awesome combination with a lot of adjustability, which I need.
So today I called Tokico and told them I thought there was a good market for Compression adjustable shocks for the Mini Cooper. And I asked if they were planning on making some. He told me that there was no market for such a thing. I told him to go to the forums and read about how almost everyone modifies their Mini. He would not even listen to what I had to say.
So if you think there is a good market for a quality shock that is compression adjustable, please call them and show them that Mini owners want a better choice. And that there are enough Mini Cooper owners to make it worth their time.
http://www.tokicogasshocks.com/
1-800-548-2549
Tokico adjustable Illumina shocks along with H-sport adjustable sway bars, front and rear and H-sport springs would be an awesome combination with a lot of adjustability, which I need.
So today I called Tokico and told them I thought there was a good market for Compression adjustable shocks for the Mini Cooper. And I asked if they were planning on making some. He told me that there was no market for such a thing. I told him to go to the forums and read about how almost everyone modifies their Mini. He would not even listen to what I had to say.
So if you think there is a good market for a quality shock that is compression adjustable, please call them and show them that Mini owners want a better choice. And that there are enough Mini Cooper owners to make it worth their time.
http://www.tokicogasshocks.com/
1-800-548-2549
If I had to choose between rebound or bound (compression) I would choose rebound in a heartbeat. I owned a Set of Koni double adjustables -$1,500-$1,600 if I remember. You can call True Choice and they'll make you any kind of Koni setup you want. True Choice is the only authorized Koni rebuilder in the country. They're arrogant, nasty and they take a long time. But if that's what you want, have at it.
Oh, and you'll have to pick a spring rate first...so they can attempt to match the two...fun stuff
Oh, and you'll have to pick a spring rate first...so they can attempt to match the two...fun stuff
It is not that hard or difficult,
yes, you are right, the koni yellows can be modified into double adjustable,
I had many done by the Koni factory, it takes a little longer to get them but it is possible.
Let me know if you have any other questions about these.
Victor
yes, you are right, the koni yellows can be modified into double adjustable,
I had many done by the Koni factory, it takes a little longer to get them but it is possible.
Let me know if you have any other questions about these.
Victor
Im running Tokico D-Specs on my G35C. they are excellent dampers.
honestly, for street running progressive rate springs, it is better to have
simultaneous adjustability (bound and rebound together) than just rebound.
Progressive rate springs are often times too soft during initial bump and
cause the car to feel a sloppy. you can play with the damp control and
with the swaybar for a nice combo of straightline and cornering stability.
on rebound only setups, usually the bound is set too stiff out of the box
and you can't do anything about it because the setting is fixed.
honestly, for street running progressive rate springs, it is better to have
simultaneous adjustability (bound and rebound together) than just rebound.
Progressive rate springs are often times too soft during initial bump and
cause the car to feel a sloppy. you can play with the damp control and
with the swaybar for a nice combo of straightline and cornering stability.
on rebound only setups, usually the bound is set too stiff out of the box
and you can't do anything about it because the setting is fixed.
Originally Posted by meb
If I had to choose between rebound or bound (compression) I would choose rebound in a heartbeat. I owned a Set of Koni double adjustables -$1,500-$1,600 if I remember. You can call True Choice and they'll make you any kind of Koni setup you want. True Choice is the only authorized Koni rebuilder in the country. They're arrogant, nasty and they take a long time. But if that's what you want, have at it.
Oh, and you'll have to pick a spring rate first...so they can attempt to match the two...fun stuff
Oh, and you'll have to pick a spring rate first...so they can attempt to match the two...fun stuff
Originally Posted by kenchan
Im running Tokico D-Specs on my G35C. they are excellent dampers.
honestly, for street running progressive rate springs, it is better to have
simultaneous adjustability (bound and rebound together) than just rebound.
Progressive rate springs are often times too soft during initial bump and
cause the car to feel a sloppy. you can play with the damp control and
with the swaybar for a nice combo of straightline and cornering stability.
on rebound only setups, usually the bound is set too stiff out of the box
and you can't do anything about it because the setting is fixed.
honestly, for street running progressive rate springs, it is better to have
simultaneous adjustability (bound and rebound together) than just rebound.
Progressive rate springs are often times too soft during initial bump and
cause the car to feel a sloppy. you can play with the damp control and
with the swaybar for a nice combo of straightline and cornering stability.
on rebound only setups, usually the bound is set too stiff out of the box
and you can't do anything about it because the setting is fixed.
Bound typically controls unsprung weight and rebound sprung weight. The two, especially rebound, must be matched to spring frequencies so that the spring is niether overdamped - sluggish spring return, or underdamped - nervous or unclontrolled spring movement.
Bound can help to settle a car in transitions; braking and intitial turn-in etc.
How much of either depends upon the spring's characteristics, and, weight distribution. Weight distribution will affect a spring's frequency or cpm - cycles per minute. When you know that figure, you can determine how much bound and rebound control are necessary. There are general known figures (cpm values) for a given weight and performance parameter, much like we know what a 2x4 is used for. If I remember, 120-160 cpm...perhaps a hair higher, define the range for stiffly sprung sedans. A comfortable Lincon type Town car might be in the neighborhood of say 90 cpm. Down force cars are apparently very tricky; they need to balance the amount of down force at speed with the sudden loss of down force as they transition to braking...I believe F1 cars derive an intitial 3g decel from aero drag alone - befor the brakes are hit...maybe this is 6gs...I cannot remember. But anyway, damping is absolutely rocket science at that level.
You can go farther, and tune high and low speed piston speed characteristics - a good article appears in Grass Roots this month about damper tuning.
Unfortunately, tuning is a seat of the pants type of thing for most of us. If you happan to posses sophisticated equipment that can dyno springs and dampers and plot performance curves - sin waves type characterisitcs - then you can target your mark a little closer. The driver is still, greatfully, part of the process.
Bound can help to settle a car in transitions; braking and intitial turn-in etc.
How much of either depends upon the spring's characteristics, and, weight distribution. Weight distribution will affect a spring's frequency or cpm - cycles per minute. When you know that figure, you can determine how much bound and rebound control are necessary. There are general known figures (cpm values) for a given weight and performance parameter, much like we know what a 2x4 is used for. If I remember, 120-160 cpm...perhaps a hair higher, define the range for stiffly sprung sedans. A comfortable Lincon type Town car might be in the neighborhood of say 90 cpm. Down force cars are apparently very tricky; they need to balance the amount of down force at speed with the sudden loss of down force as they transition to braking...I believe F1 cars derive an intitial 3g decel from aero drag alone - befor the brakes are hit...maybe this is 6gs...I cannot remember. But anyway, damping is absolutely rocket science at that level.
You can go farther, and tune high and low speed piston speed characteristics - a good article appears in Grass Roots this month about damper tuning.
Unfortunately, tuning is a seat of the pants type of thing for most of us. If you happan to posses sophisticated equipment that can dyno springs and dampers and plot performance curves - sin waves type characterisitcs - then you can target your mark a little closer. The driver is still, greatfully, part of the process.
Trending Topics
Originally Posted by CynMini
Are the D-Specs the spring and shock set up? The Illuminas are like what you said, the rebound is adjusted when you adjust the compression.
applications.
Originally Posted by CynMini
I want compression adjustable shocks for my '05 MCS. I don't think anyone makes them unless I go with coilovers. And I don't want to go the coilover route. I used Koni's that were compression adjustable on my '77 Datsun 280Z and I really liked them. But the Koni's for the Mini are rebound adjustable and the FSD's are not adjustable. I used Tokico Illumina with compression adjusters on my '89 Honda Civic Hatchback Si along with Jackson Racing springs and swaybars. That car was one of the best handling cars I have ever owned and I could adjust it to suit any condition in less then five minutes. From Caddy smooth on the soft setting to race car stiff on the hard setting. On the local coastal canyons I could keep up with cars that cost ten times more then mine . And that pi$$ed a lot of people off!
Tokico adjustable Illumina shocks along with H-sport adjustable sway bars, front and rear and H-sport springs would be an awesome combination with a lot of adjustability, which I need.
So today I called Tokico and told them I thought there was a good market for Compression adjustable shocks for the Mini Cooper. And I asked if they were planning on making some. He told me that there was no market for such a thing. I told him to go to the forums and read about how almost everyone modifies their Mini. He would not even listen to what I had to say.
So if you think there is a good market for a quality shock that is compression adjustable, please call them and show them that Mini owners want a better choice. And that there are enough Mini Cooper owners to make it worth their time.
http://www.tokicogasshocks.com/
1-800-548-2549
Tokico adjustable Illumina shocks along with H-sport adjustable sway bars, front and rear and H-sport springs would be an awesome combination with a lot of adjustability, which I need.
So today I called Tokico and told them I thought there was a good market for Compression adjustable shocks for the Mini Cooper. And I asked if they were planning on making some. He told me that there was no market for such a thing. I told him to go to the forums and read about how almost everyone modifies their Mini. He would not even listen to what I had to say.
So if you think there is a good market for a quality shock that is compression adjustable, please call them and show them that Mini owners want a better choice. And that there are enough Mini Cooper owners to make it worth their time.
http://www.tokicogasshocks.com/
1-800-548-2549
The one thing I really loved and miss with just about every other set up I've tried was being able to go from a comfortable driver to a screamin' demon in a matter of minutes. Everything else I've tried feels like a compromise on one end or the other... I would definitely consider these if available at a REASONABLE price
Not only that....
Originally Posted by 04SDmini
I have to agree with you here, I had a similar set up with the tokico's on my 88 CRX way back when and It was an awesome ride. I liked the range of adjustability and the amazing handling. I could easily keep pace with just about anyone on the twisties with that set up.
The one thing I really loved and miss with just about every other set up I've tried was being able to go from a comfortable driver to a screamin' demon in a matter of minutes. Everything else I've tried feels like a compromise on one end or the other... I would definitely consider these if available at a REASONABLE price
The one thing I really loved and miss with just about every other set up I've tried was being able to go from a comfortable driver to a screamin' demon in a matter of minutes. Everything else I've tried feels like a compromise on one end or the other... I would definitely consider these if available at a REASONABLE price
If you would really consider these shocks for your Mini, please call Tokico and ask if they will consider making them for the Mini.
I had Tokico Illuminas on my old '82 VW Rabbit and my wife's old ';84 VW Cabriolet.
They were great shocks, but failed often (and suddenly, rather than
wearing out gradually). Of course, if you keep your cars for 18-21 years,
they will either fail or wear out. Fortunately, I had a lifetime waranty on
the shocks and went through about a dozen free replacements on the two cars
over about as many years for no additional cost (did the labor myself).
They were great shocks, but failed often (and suddenly, rather than
wearing out gradually). Of course, if you keep your cars for 18-21 years,
they will either fail or wear out. Fortunately, I had a lifetime waranty on
the shocks and went through about a dozen free replacements on the two cars
over about as many years for no additional cost (did the labor myself).
Another good reason...
Originally Posted by cristo
I had Tokico Illuminas on my old '82 VW Rabbit and my wife's old ';84 VW Cabriolet.
They were great shocks, but failed often (and suddenly, rather than
wearing out gradually). Of course, if you keep your cars for 18-21 years,
they will either fail or wear out. Fortunately, I had a lifetime waranty on
the shocks and went through about a dozen free replacements on the two cars
over about as many years for no additional cost (did the labor myself).
They were great shocks, but failed often (and suddenly, rather than
wearing out gradually). Of course, if you keep your cars for 18-21 years,
they will either fail or wear out. Fortunately, I had a lifetime waranty on
the shocks and went through about a dozen free replacements on the two cars
over about as many years for no additional cost (did the labor myself).
http://www.tokicogasshocks.com/warranty.html
Ask for Phil Harris. Double adjustables will run about $400 per damper...they use Eibach or Hypercoil springs. Tell Phil what you're looking for...it'take about 3 weeks. You'll learn a lot thru the process, as I continue to do.
If I decide to track-only this car, I may opt to go in this direction again.
www.truechoice.com
If I decide to track-only this car, I may opt to go in this direction again.
www.truechoice.com
I'll bet...
Originally Posted by meb
Ask for Phil Harris. Double adjustables will run about $400 per damper...they use Eibach or Hypercoil springs. Tell Phil what you're looking for...it'take about 3 weeks. You'll learn a lot thru the process, as I continue to do.
If I decide to track-only this car, I may opt to go in this direction again.
www.truechoice.com
If I decide to track-only this car, I may opt to go in this direction again.
www.truechoice.com
I don't think...
Originally Posted by kenchan
and quite over-kill for street.
Most single adjustable dampers will adjust rebound and compression at the same time. However, if you examine the dyno charts, you will see that the rebound changes significantly while the compression changes only very little. For the most part, you will want to fiddle with rebound more than compression.
you think? i think the car only needs springs and a rear sway
bar for street (if 02,03's) and some good tires.
if there
were d-specs for the MCS, i would get them for my h-sports.
bar for street (if 02,03's) and some good tires.
if therewere d-specs for the MCS, i would get them for my h-sports.
Originally Posted by CynMini
it would be overkill as long as there was a wide range of adjustability. I would love to be able to adjust both along with sway bars. I just don't want to pay that much. With the illuminas you are really adjusting both, just not independently. The problem is most people would not have the knowledge to adjust compression, rebound and sway bars, and that would be a big waste of money. And it might be dangerous! In that sence, I guess your right, overkill for most.
One man's overkill is another mans nirvana.
I think adjustability is key, everywhere. I use my car for both commuting and the track - an unwise compromise - adjustability helps make the compromise less so. I've owned the Konis I suggested above. These were valved to work with 400in/lb springs up front and 600in/lb springs in the rear. These can be valved to work with any linear rate springs...progressive rate springs will work, but the process is complex and usually not nearly as successful.
If you are the type who wants to play with adjustable swaybars, then you are also the type, if I may, that will love playing with damper setttings. And, possessing the ability to adjust bound and rebound is a great thing.
My Mini is a company car...so I cannot invest too much. Otherwise... The Megans work very well...if these were also bound adjustable, they would an even more incredible value.
I think adjustability is key, everywhere. I use my car for both commuting and the track - an unwise compromise - adjustability helps make the compromise less so. I've owned the Konis I suggested above. These were valved to work with 400in/lb springs up front and 600in/lb springs in the rear. These can be valved to work with any linear rate springs...progressive rate springs will work, but the process is complex and usually not nearly as successful.
If you are the type who wants to play with adjustable swaybars, then you are also the type, if I may, that will love playing with damper setttings. And, possessing the ability to adjust bound and rebound is a great thing.
My Mini is a company car...so I cannot invest too much. Otherwise... The Megans work very well...if these were also bound adjustable, they would an even more incredible value.
Originally Posted by meb
I think adjustability is key, everywhere. I use my car for both commuting and the track - an unwise compromise - adjustability helps make the compromise less so.
jk(your other thread)
I read the article...
Originally Posted by meb
Bound typically controls unsprung weight and rebound sprung weight. The two, especially rebound, must be matched to spring frequencies so that the spring is niether overdamped - sluggish spring return, or underdamped - nervous or unclontrolled spring movement.
Bound can help to settle a car in transitions; braking and intitial turn-in etc.
How much of either depends upon the spring's characteristics, and, weight distribution. Weight distribution will affect a spring's frequency or cpm - cycles per minute. When you know that figure, you can determine how much bound and rebound control are necessary. There are general known figures (cpm values) for a given weight and performance parameter, much like we know what a 2x4 is used for. If I remember, 120-160 cpm...perhaps a hair higher, define the range for stiffly sprung sedans. A comfortable Lincon type Town car might be in the neighborhood of say 90 cpm. Down force cars are apparently very tricky; they need to balance the amount of down force at speed with the sudden loss of down force as they transition to braking...I believe F1 cars derive an intitial 3g decel from aero drag alone - befor the brakes are hit...maybe this is 6gs...I cannot remember. But anyway, damping is absolutely rocket science at that level.
You can go farther, and tune high and low speed piston speed characteristics - a good article appears in Grass Roots this month about damper tuning.
Unfortunately, tuning is a seat of the pants type of thing for most of us. If you happan to posses sophisticated equipment that can dyno springs and dampers and plot performance curves - sin waves type characterisitcs - then you can target your mark a little closer. The driver is still, greatfully, part of the process.
Bound can help to settle a car in transitions; braking and intitial turn-in etc.
How much of either depends upon the spring's characteristics, and, weight distribution. Weight distribution will affect a spring's frequency or cpm - cycles per minute. When you know that figure, you can determine how much bound and rebound control are necessary. There are general known figures (cpm values) for a given weight and performance parameter, much like we know what a 2x4 is used for. If I remember, 120-160 cpm...perhaps a hair higher, define the range for stiffly sprung sedans. A comfortable Lincon type Town car might be in the neighborhood of say 90 cpm. Down force cars are apparently very tricky; they need to balance the amount of down force at speed with the sudden loss of down force as they transition to braking...I believe F1 cars derive an intitial 3g decel from aero drag alone - befor the brakes are hit...maybe this is 6gs...I cannot remember. But anyway, damping is absolutely rocket science at that level.
You can go farther, and tune high and low speed piston speed characteristics - a good article appears in Grass Roots this month about damper tuning.
Unfortunately, tuning is a seat of the pants type of thing for most of us. If you happan to posses sophisticated equipment that can dyno springs and dampers and plot performance curves - sin waves type characterisitcs - then you can target your mark a little closer. The driver is still, greatfully, part of the process.
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