For what it's worth, I'm not aware of any front strut tower brace for the MCS that does not make contact with the hood liner. If you checkout my pic above you'll notice that my MINI-Clubsport bar, which is identical to the JCW bar, also made contact. Granted some may make more than others, but there just isn't very much room in there. I think one of the reasons it may appear to be worse with the M7 bar is due to it's shape. I think the flat, rather than roundish, top of the cross bar provides more contact area with the hood liner which may require either a little more time and/or help to settle in.

 

Speaking of the hood liner. Has anybody noticed that the hood of the Mini is cool to the touch after driving? I never noticed it until my dad pointed it out. The hood scoop on the other hand... Wouldn't removing the hood liner help in getting rid of underhood heat, at the expense of increased wear on the paint?

 

Darn, all soaked and stained before you told us. Going to try some cleaners - any thoughts or what not to use on the anodizing?

Also, I noticed the outer 'bar bolt' impacts the liner allot - is there a smaller headed bolt they make?

 

Hmmm, any pics of the stain? I haven't heard of anodizing staining before ... it's usually pretty durable.

BTW, how did the soak & slam trick work out as far as letting the hood settle?

 

Installed the STB this morning and yes, the drivers side was already mushroomed A couple of whacks with a 2x4 cut to size (beat down with my old MG 'spin on' wooden hammer) and then a couple of heavy blows with a stout, cut to order 2x2 (and my trusty 9oz finishing hammer) and I could tighten it down just fine. I'll pick up some fresh locktite blue later on, but on my local 'course' (low traffic, twisty), I could feel greater stiffness in the front end. In fact, I noticed that just pulling out of my driveway. I really like what the STB does for front end stiffness!
And yes, the back of the bonnet is proud less than 1/4", but is already settling down...

 

BTW, did anyone else notice that the Haynes manual says that the strut top nuts are single use only (do not reuse)? I don't see that they crush or have inserts or anything

 

Installed mine last night - I was left with a > 1/4 " bulge on the bonnett- following this threads expert technical advice - I used the "soak & sllam" method- this morning the bulge is gone - Many Thanks for the suggestion !
PS- I glad I got mine before they changed the color

 

I just got in from the garage. I also did the soak & slam. It's only been an hour, but it already looks like it's working.

 

If it's hard water a safe and cheap is plain old vinegar.

You can order button head bolts.

Here's a post and a pic

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...&postcount=111

 

It's not all that bad... I have been wetting down and a quick wipe a couple of times gets rid of it.
I thought it may be washer fluid in the pad or could be a dissimilar metal in the pad contents having a reaction because the other stress bar I had was getting corroded like pitting aluminum with white, flakey, residue???

My hood is still has a bulge - but not bothersome.

 

just wondering, what is this "soak and slam" method? you soak it in plain water (not hot or anything?) and just slam the hood?

 

I used a spray bottle to 'wet' the liner and then shut the hood - drive around and heat it up.

 

I had taken my bonnet liner off so before I reinstalled it I soaked it good on both sides. Once reinstalled I slammed the hood. Most of the bulge went away, but there is still just a bit of one. It's much better than the way it was before so I proclaim it, good enough for me.

 

how easy is the installing this? got one but not sure if i should be replacing the nuts. Will the front shocks fall off by taking off the nuts?
also whats the torque setting for these?
thjanks

 

Is a easy deal. Your shocks wil not fall out and the torgue setting is on the light side about 25 ft lbs.

Randy
M7 Tuning

 

Thanks randy.