Ireland Engineering has released their racing and street versions of their adjustable camber plates. Their website has been completely redone and they now have all products online with photos.

 

I just ordered the 1.25° camber plates from Ireland. I have a nice big set of mechanics tools, is it an easy install?

 

I noticed that Ireland Engineering are now selling their street/track adjustable camber plates. Do you guys think this would be a better option than the original fixed camber he sell, particularly for a car which will be tracked on occassion? As a side note, my car mcs sits on H-sports coils.

Lastly, does anyone have any experience with the camber plates from K-Mac?

:smile:

 

Just a reminder. I just installed my RDR camber plates this weekend. The toe changed to 1/2 inch (toe in) after the install (1.8 camber). So if I were to kick the camber back to something like 0 (factory setting) for the street each time my toe would swing 1/2 inch the other way (toe out). You will need an easy method to check and adjust your toe each time you adjust the camber plates.

Road and bump noise is much more evident with the camber plates that don't use the factory bearing / rubber bushing. The stiffer the linkup between the shock shaft and the worse it gets. Add some Falken's or Toyo's and it can get ugly or "COOL" depending on your sports car mood of the day!

 

search for a how to on the spring removal. webbs has been down last i checked. you will also need spring compressors(cheap at harbor freight) because if i remember youd have to remove the top strut nut to get the plate off. i used an impact driver in order to remove it without spinning the strut as some have discussed in "how tos." i also used a 2x4 and a floor jack to push up on the lower spring mount in order to get the lower end of the strut out. good luck.

 

Question...would the added 3/16" addition of ride height caused by the fixed camber plate be offset by increased camber? In other words, would the increased camber of 1.25 degrees lower the ride height enough to cancel out the added 3/16" increase?

 

Exactly? We need some exact measurments. If I were to guess, I would expect a reduction in ride height. How much? Dunno...what is the measurment from the center of the tire's contact patch to the underside of the strut tower?

More negative camber also helps to bring the roll center back towards its stock relationship with the center of gravity too - a good thing.

 

Did the price go up $30 already

 

ireland said the "slight increase in ride height" would be offset by the better handling with increased neg. camber.

 

Looks like it's up to me to measure the height difference... next week:smile:

 

Ah! Since it requires a spring compressor, I don't think I want to do it myself. I've done a spring swap before but I don't have the time anymore between work, girlfriend, family, friends, etc.

I just got the plates today and I think I rather just pay the labor and have my mechanic install it. How much do you think the labor should be.. or maybe the question is, how many hours should the swap take? I just don't want to get ripped off. Thanks a lot for your help everybody.

Oh and I will measure my ride-height before I take it into the shop and share it with you folks, along with the change in handling results.

 

!!!

 

If you have lowering springs already, you don't need a compressor...just a little push down while someone puts the nut back on:smile:

 

I've done a spring swap on a different car, not on the MINI. I mention it though because I experienced the time it takes to do the change, which is like a whole afternoon for a newbie like me, so it's too much, hehe.

 

pmello,

Did you adjust the toe before getting the frontend aligned? If not, how did it drive on the way to the alignment shop with that much toe.

Is this the case with the RDR camber plates? They do have polyurethane between the bearing and the plate, are they that much harsher riding than stock?

I have the RDR plates (not installed yet) and have been wondering how I will drive to the alignment shop after the install. Is there a way to get the adjustment close enough to drive 25 to 30 miles? Thanks for the help.

 

You can drive 50 miles easy. Don't ask how long I drove on them without checking! Early reports said that these camber plates were great, "you could just slam them in for your track day's". So "I" was lazy and didn't check. Later on in the forums I learned it changed the toe a LOT.

Before starting the switch take some measurements on the rack tierod ends. I was able to get a measurement between the adjustmant nut and the ridge just before the boot (on the rack). On the 2002, both sides were within a few 1000's of an inch of each other. On the 2005 they just slightly different.

http://www.smartracingproducts.com/p...martcamber.htm

http://www.smartracingproducts.com/p...rtstrings2.htm

I have a SMART digital level for the camber and I use 2 8ft lenghts of 1 inch box tubing (checked against each other for straightness) clamped to the rotors for a rough first check. I load the suspension with jack stands by setting it on the lower balljoints. I measure an equal length out in front of the car and make a mark. I then measure 24 inches out from that and make another mark. Take a measurement of between the first marks and another between the second marks. Rough factory setting is 0 (tubes are parallel).

You can take this further and do something while it's on the ground. I left out a lot, like putting the steeringwheel straight and checking rims/tires for straightness etc. You can setup "a string box" There is a lot of info on the web! Got to run to work. I'll try to add to the post with some url's etc.

I didn't buy the SMARTCAMBER (just the level, locally) buy maybe I should have. I was surprised, even using the rough methode the car tracked pretty well.

 

What impact would adding more negative camber up front have for driving in the snow? I'm guessing it would be a very bad idea. Perhaps that would be a reason for me to go with adjustable plates, if I ever do anything at all in terms of camber.

It's hard enough trying to compromise between track and daily driver, without having to remember that I also have to drive in the snow for 4 or 5 months out of the year.

Paul... are you heading back to SLMP in September?

 

was wondering this myself????

 

(snow) Good question??? Anybody. Could it help?? I do know that fat (215x40x17) summer tires are verybad.

Yes - Going to SLMP!!!!!!

 

Like everything, it helps up to a point. On dry ground, a tire deforms based upon load and road type. The character of 'deformation' at the contact patch is related to geometry as well. Mechanical keying is a term used to describe how a tire digs into road irregularities. Mechanical keying will likely not occur in slippery conditions. You are left with the properties of the rubber compound, geometry, and, the discretion of your right foot in the white stuff.

Experiment in a shopping mall parking lot - lots of fun too...


The Mini is the best front wheel drive car I've driven in the snow. My experience was on 16" all season run flats.

PS - the thinner the tire - to a point - the better. To a point reminds the reader that he or she may be driving in snow or on asphalt. A longer, narrow contact patch is better for snow. A short, wide footprint is not.

 

Anyone take the measurements before and after with these camber plates? I have coilovers so I can adjust the height if necessary ... just curious as to how much they raised the car.

Thanks!

 

I don't remember the numbers but I set my PSS9s at the same ride height as the H-Sport springs with stock shocks. Used the tape measure before and after the swap .... then drove to the shop that corner balanced & aligned the car. There must be threads in "search" regarding the various spring/ride heights. FWIW with the fixed Ireland plates at the lowered height, I ended up with neg 2 degrees camber in front, the - 1.25 degrees is what you get at stock ride height.

Cheers,

 

Thanks for the info. The reason I'm looking for exact measurements is a question of needing spacers or not.

I currently have the car set in the middle of my KWs recommended range. I can easily drop it enough to offset an additional 3/16", I'm just trying to make sure this number is accurate to how much they raise the front. My street wheels will fit fine (et38). However, my track wheels (holies) will need spacers (5mm or so) to fit if I lower the perch too much more.

I may just go ahead and pick up some spacers anyway. A little wider track in the front than the rear should help reduce a bit of understeer anyway.

Thanks again!

 

Duh on my part.... Right, the plates are only 3/16" like you said. I was thinking of some of the adjustable plates out there can really pop the car up! The fixed Irelands have out worked great. No meaningful tire wear on the street, no harsh ride and give me some extra bite for 4-5 track days I do.

Cheers,